(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 6,746 posts
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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by bssbllr
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #38 Prime the insert with 3M Plastic Primer before gluing. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #60 Repairing Insert Ghosting - fill, clean, remove bubbles, cover. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #61 Repairing Insert Ghosting - clamp overnight. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Post #76 Source for needles - https://www.dispensinglink.com/needles.html Posted by rancegt (6 years ago)

Post #84 Air brush information. Posted by vid1900 (6 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2398 3 years ago

Just a few Quick questions. I have a Jungle Lord Playfield that I am working on. I have attached some close up pics. I used ME and 91% Alcohol to clean the playfield. There are still ball swirl marks but before I go further I did a repeated wipe down with Naphtha.

The pics are where I am at currently. This one will have a good bit of airbrush touch up that will be needed. Some of the details are very intricate and I am not sure how I will get them done.

My questions are from these pictures am I ready to have my Auto Clear Coat buddy lay down the 1st dust coat and 2nd light coat of Auto Clear? How do you know when you are ready? I know that I need to secure the backside, place masking tape over the back of the switch holes and other places where clear will be sprayed, and remove the drop targets. But at what general point do you say I am ready to go to clear?

I have a couple of inserts that move slightly when pushed and are lifting, so I will glue them with the 2 part epoxy (exactly as detailed in Vids guide). Should I glue all of them down to prevent future lifting?

What does everyone do with light sockets, can I just use a bulb during clear coating?

There are still swill marks, so I hit these with ME and alcohol until better/gone?

I have three small holes (not sure why) just below the bottom insert between the flippers. From the bottom of the circle insert to the hole seems to be some wood split, should that be carved out and filed, or sanded and filled or what? Is there a guide on filling holes and repairing playfield damage in Vid's guides (TY!)

Anyway this is my 1st pinball, my 1st restoration (maybe I am crazy for going all in on my 1st).

Thank you for all the help from everyone and thank you Vid for your amazing repair guides!

5 months later
#2931 3 years ago

Apparently some Auto Zones are carrying 2Pac Clears in small quantities. I'll take some pics tonight and investigate

#2932 3 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

So I have done a little work since my post. I have also worked a couple other machines so D&D was back burnered a couple times. But.......since it just came back from clear, I figured I would post a couple pics.

Holy Chit that's beautiful!!!

#2934 3 years ago

Quote from Vid 1900 "Of course once you have a nice sized air compressor, you can wet sand pneumatically and get the play field really flat..."

Does anyone have any input on wet sanding pneumatically? I'd like to get a sander that works for clearing play fields.. Harbor Freight one would be nice.. any tips from you guys would be helpful.

Again Vid1900 thank you for all your contributions!! After two trips to HB I have everything to start Clearcoating the PF (initial) then fix gouges/holes/insert leveling..

Working on my shopping cart for the airbrush and Createx paints.

#2935 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

PAINT-1.jpgYou always read somebody asking "What color paint matches the blue on XXXXX game?".
And the real answer is "The one you mix yourself".
Even if you had a can of the actual Williams paint, your playfield has faded in the last 30 years.
Even if you knew what the color mix was at the time, those colors were mixed by eye at the silkscreener, and thus varied from batch to batch.
Even if someone found a match "Blood Moon #666" for their XXXXX game, it would not match yours, because different games have seen different amounts of UV light.
Now many people have tried to mix their own paint and found it did not create the color they thought it would, or it just turned brown. That is because cheap paints don't have the pure pigments and binders that mix well with others.
Good quality paints mix beautifully, creating the results you expect.
Mix paint in a clear container that you can set on the playfield to match it up. Try to use natural light, not a yellow incandescent lamp. Use a flat container, so you are not looking down the neck of a bottle.
Women have much better color vision than men. Don't be afraid to ask your wife to match colors for you. It will involve her in your hobby and make her feel important that she has a skill you don't. Let her do the actual mixing, don't just ask if a sample is a match.

side question....

Where do you get your clear plastic paint mixing trays?



#2947 3 years ago


Sorry to ask so many questions and take the mystery out of every thing.. Where do you get your Norton Black Ice Sand paper from?

// I just picked up this drywall hand sander from Lowes last night... (pic attached).

Also any tips for tracking down sources of 2PAC? I am having a hard time here in South Florida... The Shop Line series seems to be difficult for me to get ahold of. Or any 2PAC for that matter.

Thank you , Danke!!!


3 weeks later
#2992 3 years ago

Does anyone have any good Airbrush tips and tricks / cleaning links or vids.

I found one on Youtube that seemed relevant but I really haven't starting using my HB airbrush yet so not sure how relevant it is..

#2999 3 years ago

The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$

Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?


#3011 3 years ago
Quoted from Jtslade:

The pancake and hot dog 3 gallon compressor is on sale at HB..49$
Anyone use these for airbrushing? Good experience or is it too small?

Ok just found This coupon print off for the 8 Gallon / 2HP / 125psi Oil compressor at HB normally $149 with this coupon in link for $99 (at the bottom)


Here is the link at HB..


Kinda feel like this will be of better all around use. I have not been able to find a good classic Speedaire or similar quality 30-50 gallon compressor for under $1K used on CL here in Florida. They must been in high demand..

#3041 3 years ago

Color decals and such...

So is everyone here using a Color Laser for printing those Color Decals on the clear waterslide paper? (in previous post)

I have a bunch of B/W laser printers for standard waterslide decals..

For color I can use a Xerox Workcenter 7855 which are pretty good CMYK Color Laser printers. There is a Xerox 570 with Fiery which is also an option.

I also can use a HP Designjet Z6200 with Color Backlit Film which I think could make some good looking translite overlays.

#3043 3 years ago

Thank you!

Just ordered the Frisket Roll, Createx Paint sets (opaque and fluorescent) , French Curve, metal straight edge, Xacto knife and blades, metric & imperial circle templates..

Ordered from Utrecht.com art supplies with the coupon code VENP and saved almost $25 bucks..

Thank you Vid!!!!!!!!

#3044 3 years ago

Any recommendations for Brand, type and best place to buy the waterslide paper?

Thank you..

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