Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Joey_N.
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Years ago, I restored an F14 Tomcat with factory Mylar. In removing the Mylar, most of the ink and clear peeled off of every insert. I ended up removing each insert, wet sanded it flat to remove any ink/clear and flatten, reglue, and use insert decals. Clearcoat with 2pac, etc. What a pita, but it turned out nice.
In researching laser printer water slide decals, I found something interesting. I found the material on Amazon, but looking at the reviews, a lot of folks complain about the laser printer being too hot and the material melting to the fuser or something. I'm not buying a color laser printer to print decals and I'm sure as hell not risking using my work printer, one of those giant copier looking laser printers. I know it's recommended to print right after the printer comes on in the morning as it's cooler, but I can't risk that.
Is there someone on here that prints laser water slide decals as a service or who is recommended? My idea is to print to transparency, etc..and test fit perfect, then have someone print the decals for me. I'll need some for Stern-Dracula and for Bally-KISS.
I've got a playfield with a very tiny wear spot in a flesh tone area - a lady leg on Future Spa. I'm thinking that a flesh tone might be a PITA to mix from primary colors for me. Has anyone used auto clear over Tamiya spray lacquer? They sell a flesh tone mix. I have sprayed auto clear over Testors Lacquer spray in the little can (and confirmed that Testors non-lacquer WILL wrinkle). Wasn't sure about the Tamiya line.
Quoted from vid1900:Every piece of wood is different, and reacts differently to sanding, even when cut from the same tree.
If you find you are removing too much wood, stop right that moment and get out the paint and or wood epoxy.
Do NOT keep sanding away wood like this:
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/shooter-lane-repair.htm
Ya know.. I saw that years ago it seems. It never occurred to me - WHY would you sand away that much of the wood. Seems it would function differently, but it looks really different.
Quoted from vid1900:Probably not.
The noise alone would probably make you kill yourself, let alone the low, pulsing, pressure output.
Bwahahaha. Made me think of my little PC pancake compressor. It's brain numbing loud. I bought a used 33gal on wheels to use for running a spray gun and it was worth every penny.
So, my wife has a Silhouette, I have plenty of experience with Microstation, Photoshop, and could probably hack my way around Illustrator.
I have a Stern - Dracula playfield that I'm finishing and redo-ing some touchups on - so I can fill in an entire area and put the text on top, rather than mask or paint around the existing text.
My dilemma is - how do I find the fonts that halfway match the original text? I've tried those find your font sites, and no luck. Should I just redraw the letters as I would an object? Thanks..
Long story short.. bought a "roached out" KISS project/parts game over 10yrs ago. Missing bg, game had smoke damage, so playfield yellowed on top of flaking badly, cabinet so/so.. really a basis to use repro parts.
I have the repro IPB backglass and plastics. Didn't buy a repro playfield 10yrs ago when they were $450. Damn.. I'm on the CPR repro preorder list, but I have this one-
Bought this slightly worn playfield from a Pinsider a year or so ago. It's absolutely restorable, but my biggest issue is the 40,000 and 80,000 text. I have sprayed 2pac, done some touch ups, it's not completely new to me. I think the best/only way to rectify this wear would be using decals.
Don't wanna go the Classicarcades route, plus I don't need all of that.
I can barely find time to do anything. Is there ANYONE on Pinside that could make decals for the text, possibly just the black layer, for pay?
I understand the how, and have a high res photo of a good one to work from, but at this rate, I'll never get around to it, as the decals seem like a mini project in themselves.
Also, the grid looks like it would be a PITA to repair.
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Quoted from matthess:Has anyone tried this for shooting clear? I wonder how well it would work? http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html
I'd be concerned with how you'd clean that out after use, as I'd guess any solvent you'd use to clean up auto clear would dissolve some of that plastic. I clean my $15 HF HVLP gun with lacquer thinner.
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Madison, AL