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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

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#2584 8 years ago
 
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Dono

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9y 86,050 1,791 12 25

OP
Quoted from vid1900:

This is where you start to separate the boys from the men in playfield restoration.
Even sanding the edge of the insert is not enough.
The final step is to prime the plastic with 3M Plastic Primer.
It goes on thin like water and dries in a few seconds.
Now when you apply the epoxy, you can't chip it off.
9.jpg

I searched for this product... a lot of choices for what looks like the correct product... could not definitively tell what to order from the 3M site... could someone reply with a link please? Thanks!!!!!!

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#2588 8 years ago
 
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OP
Quoted from vid1900:

3M c596 is a good primer that you don't have to buy in 5 gallon sizes.

543$ ??? What am I missing here?

1 year later
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#4376 6 years ago
 
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Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Kinda sorta in little chunks. Interestingly, just realized that the THICK red (way thicker than the white) in the shooter lane was not affected.

I had a similar situation last year with a createx purple; sent pix and an explanation to the Createx Tech engineers on the issue - and their reply was that the only way that would happen was that the sprayed purple hadn't set up long enough. They also recommended using their WICKED or AUTO AIR color line as a better alternative to the AIRBRUSH color line in my specific application.

2 years later
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#6920 3 years ago
 
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Quoted from mark532011:

I've been restoring my Miss-O playfield. So far its been going great, I scanned in the playfield, created paint masks and have been painting the various colors. I used createx paints right from the bottle as so far I have been doing primary colors - red, yellow and white. I decided to lay down a thin coat of clear (rustoleum crystal clear enamel) to lock in the paint so I don't lift it while masking other areas.
Thats when disaster happened, for some reason the white reacted and it now looks like this. you can see the red and yellow areas had no trouble. Does anyone know why it would have happened, what I can do to fix it and how to prevent it in the future? The white was not the last color laid down, is it a bad bottle or something?[quoted image]

Did you use their "wicked" line or "spray colors" line? I had a similar situation with a createx "spray color" purple that I had mixed; for me the clear reacted with the sprayed area but fortunately as it dried the paint laid back down ok. I did not have the lifting I see in your photo.

I was told by createx that the only way that would happen is if you sprayed your color too thick and it didn't cure properly and/or you didn't allow enough time to fully cure.

THEY RECOMMENDED I USE THEIR WICKED line of colors as they hold up to clears much better than their spray color line. Have had no issues spraying the wicked line of colors ever since.

See the below thread; Createx reply to my issue is on post 13:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/paint-bleed-on-3rd-varathane-coat-wtf

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#6922 3 years ago
 
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Quoted from mark532011:

I guess I did something like that. I used regular old created but now I’ve scraped the old white/clear off, roughed it up with some 800 grit, sprayed some primer then white over the primer. I waited overnight and I have sprayed 3 very light coats of clear and no problems. So I guess I did something wrong the first time

Glad you were able to work through your issue!

2 months later
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#7027 3 years ago
 
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Quoted from pinballinreno:

That job is a big one. You are on the right track, bondo and stencils, airbrush for the entire playfield.
Lots of damage.
Everything can be fixed, just time and money.
See if you can find another playfield in better condition, or another game, might be better and cheaper.

The above is a perfect response... even for the knowledgeable/talented vet, you've got tons of hours of work, and I wouldn't tackle that as a first time restoration candidate, unless you just want to practice. They made a ton of TAs, you should be able to score a better playfield.

4 weeks later
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#7062 3 years ago
 
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Posting this here since no one has heard of this poly ...

Anyone have experience with this water based poly from Crystalac? Looking for something a bit more clear/durable than traditional polys and lacquers. Yes, I'm well aware of auto-clears, but I'm not interested in hearing about the pros and cons of those products, since I won't be using them on my EM games I'm looking to clear due to health reasons and no local clear coat guys in my area...

Originally created for the luthier trade, but their products have branched out:

http://www.crystalac.info/extreme-protection-polyurethane.html

2 months later
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#7119 3 years ago
 
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Just want to reiterate the feeling among a ton of pinsiders that you've helped over the years - we're hoping that your return is a long one, and know that you've been a big part of successful restorations from folks who have had the pleasure of using your advise, tips and tricks to fine tune their restoration game.

3 weeks later
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#7182 3 years ago
 
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OP
Quoted from vid1900:

The kick out is supposed to keep you from making a straight shot
I'd only try "fixing" it if I was clearing the entire playfield
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/3#post-640071

Agreed 100%... owned that game for years, and YES, the hole there is perfectly placed to deflect from a straight shot... perfect design IMO.

1 month later
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#7215 3 years ago
 
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OP
Quoted from vid1900:

I've only used it for lettering on glass.
Never thought to try it on a playfield; I'm probably spoiled by the "ready to spray" consistency of Createx

I know of several folks who use 1shot on playfields as it holds up well and is a top quality paint with very good pigment loads. You can use a lacquer clear on top, not sure about auto clears though. Always check on scrap prior to executing your plan on your particular table.

1 month later
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#7305 3 years ago
 
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OP
Quoted from vid1900:

Side note:
If you put a heavy coat of clear on the playfield, before you do your touch up painting, the touchups might appear to float above the playfield.
Only do painting/decaling over a thin **lock-down** coat of clear

Great point, I've seen very good touchups done AFTER a heavy coat and it just doesn't look right at all.

11 months later
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#7840 2 years ago
 
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Just curious if having multiple layers of waterslide decals could potentially result in clear separation down the road. Has there been any precedent or experiences of this happening to anyone attempting this multi-layer decal technique, or repairs requiring larger decals?

1 year later
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#8379 1 year ago
 
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Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’d be curious to know how many people add another topcoat before swapping a CPR.
I’ve done it on a few of them, particularly older ones where I could still feel the veneer surface texture, it really seemed called for.
On the other hand, the Meteor I bought last year for my own machine had what looked to me like a pretty robust clear coat. Some people might have been inclined to sand and buff it, but I barely have time to do my own projects as it is so I was fine with using it “out of the box.” It plays fast and looks nice.
I’d also be interested to hear more from people with professional experience using clear coat on the topic of “dimpling.” Opinions seems to be pretty split on this; my take has always been that the steel is harder than the most cured 2PAC or the densest plywood veneer and so dimpling is inevitable. But I also hear about other playfield finishers using months long processes that ostensibly eliminate the dimples.
I personally am not bothered by dimpling of the clear and feel that the “problem” is over-emphasized. But I also want to fully understand the products and processes I use and employ best practices. This subject seems to be forever under debate.

My experience with the new fields is mixed as far as dimpling. I have a nice CPR Old Chicago that has been super rock solid with no dimples, and one from another source that looks like the Argonne Forest floor after a Luftwaffe shelling after only a few hundred plays. You're gonna get folks who say there's no difference in ply "hardness" from the 40s to today, and others who think quite the opposite. I'm from the latter camp, and have several long-time collectors that share the same opinion. Like they say, YMMV. Great example of a current repro with a sea of dimples.

sea of dimples (resized).jpegsea of dimples (resized).jpeg

Post last edited 1 year ago: “adding photo”

6 months later
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#8558 5 months ago
 
DO

Dono

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Hello folks, I just started prepping my IPB KISS playfield for a swap, quick question... what is a good size brad bit for removing clear from post screw holes (non-Tnut posts)?

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