(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)


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#3365 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Clean with Naphtha after sanding. Don't get oils from your hand on the clean surface.

I've been slowly reading through this thread from the beginning, and saw this caution. I used to work professionally in animation as a cel painter (inking drawings onto acetate and then painting them). We would use cotton gloves to prevent transfer of oils to the surface of the art. The gloves are cheap and can be washed over and over again. We cut the tips off of some of the fingers and thumb so that we could maintain a good grip on the tools we were using. I haven't done any playfield restoration yet, so I'm not sure if they would be as useful for this work, but thought you might find them helpful.

http://www.cartooncolor.com/1-doz-pairs-cotton-inking-gloves/

4 months later
#3704 7 years ago

I'm going to be shopping out my first project EM later this month, and I'm trying to decide if I should attempt fixing the playfield at the same time. I've worked as a professional artist and done extensive color matching, so a lot of the steps shown here seem very do-able to me. I don't have a lot of experience dismantling and reassembling mechanics though. Is it crazy to jump into everything at once? Or should I spend time really getting to know the mechanics of my pin before I worry about the aesthetics?

3 months later
#4049 7 years ago

Apologies in advance, but I will probably have a ton of questions over the next few months as I restore my Hi-Deal playfield! I've read through this thread and read a ton of other restoration threads, so I have a general idea of the steps involved, but just to be sure, is this the order I should proceed in?

1. Repair wood gouges
2. Sand surface
3. Light coat of clear coat (sand?)
4. Repaint colors
5. Light coat of clear coat (sand)
6. Apply decals
7. Final clear coat

Also I work 50 yards away from an automotive restoration business. I'm planning on asking them about spraying the clear coat for me. What should I ask for (i.e. type of clear coat, any technical specs)?

Finally, I've cleaned once with naphtha and once with magic eraser/alcohol. Is that sufficient to clean off the waxes, etc that may have been there over the years?

Thanks for all of the advice! I'm really excited to try this out!!

#4051 7 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Seriously?
This has all been covered many times in this thread... Read it!

I have read this thread and others, but many of the individual steps are discussed at length without noting how they fit into a full work stream. Based on the reading I've done, I'm pretty sure I have the order correct, but I was hoping to doublecheck before I made any stupid mistakes that would complicate the process.

As for the clear coat questions, I did go back and look for technical info, but all of the materials seem to be for home based products, not necessarily what a professional shop might use. I apologize if I overlooked something obvious, but this is an 80 page thread with a lot of very specific technical discussion, not all of which applies to every restoration.

#4056 7 years ago

Thank you for clearing that up for me, Vid! I thought there might be a difference in the industrial terms vs what can be picked up by regular consumers.

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