Houston, TX
Quoted from RVH:Question, I've got a playfield hole that needs repair
or perhaps
(Topic ID: 33446)
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2 weeks later
I buy mine through this web site.
The list laser or ink jet and offer as few as 5 sheets. Usually very quick shipping within the states.
http://robinseggcetera.mybisi.com/products/inkjet-waterslide-decal-paper
3 months later
Hello Vid, a couple of follow up questions regarding the SBM I'm working on...
When re-creating the halftones, can one achieve white dots on a water slide decal?
What about the halftone sizes vary on the originals, can PS re-create this? I've been messing around trying to achieve this for a bit now. - am I being to anal?
Trying to stencil some of the fine details on certain features may push the limit of using something like a Cameo, could these type of detailed items be reproduced on the WSD? See the "Spots Letter" example - the larger color sections like most of the white and blue could be pretty easily done with stenciling, but the thin areas might be down right impossible... and to follow that up, as far as using a laser printer to print the WSDs, what do you suggest as minimum dpi value?
Many thanks!
3 weeks later
Vid, can you suggest a method to fill these scratches that were in the pf before it was cleared? The entire area will either get water slides or repaint... would you fill these with a 0000 brush with clear or try and sand the area flat then apply another layer of clear?
1 week later
Quoted from vid1900:Waterslide decals stick best to shiny surfaces, so I sand around them.
Ive been sanding and sanding (400 grit) to remove the fish eyes that presented themselves when my gun failed to atomize properly, what is a good grit level to sand the surface with to ready it for the water slides?
Quoted from vid1900:moisture.
Don't ever drip oil into the hose you are going to use for painting. If you have already done this for your other air tools, buy a dedicated painting air hose.
In regards to this, will oil placed In the tool inlet contaminate the hose? I recently sourced a pneumatic sander that I used and per my previous post I'm on the verge of being able moving forward and don't want to have any more preventable issues.
1 week later
Vid, can one spray a repaired backglass with left over clear after shooting a playfield? I had to do significant work to my SBM glass and hit it with too much triple thick which melted the Createx, so I had to re-do it. Now that I'm onto working on the playfield and often have some extra clear, do you see any issue using it on my rework? FYI the black paint is enamel, the color paint is Createx.
Images are of first try after the triple thick melted it, I did not yet take images of the backside after I re-did it again.
20170802_055656[1] (resized).jpg
20170802_055707[2] (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
Vid, can you direct me, if in this awesome thread, if one is doing paint repair AND waterslide decal repairs, which is suggested to be done first? My SBM needs mass amounts of both!
I've got the playfield all nice a level and am ready to begin either waterslide or createx airbrush repairs and need your input which comes first.
Thanks!
1 week later
Good day Vid, can you confirm that for typical order of operations, clean the PF, shoot a lockdown layer of clear, any wood repairs to pf, paint repairs, waterslide decals then final clear coat?
3 weeks later
Vid, question from my SBM restore:
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Finally was able to finish masking off the PF in order to paint the black layer. HOWEVER, when I went to remove the Oramask stencils and reveal my paint job, in multiple places, the Oramask removed clearcoat. I had applied the Oramask pieces over a period of weeks and wonder if that has something to do with it removing clear in places. The "lockdown" coat of clear had multiple weeks to cure before I ever put the first piece of mask on so I'm not really sure what happened. I did not get pics of this but would guess someone has experienced this?
I've taken the steps to repair this damage, is there a suggested amount of time to let the new lockdown layer of 2PAC cure before applying more masking in order to airbrush new paint layers to prevent future issues as mentioned in my post above?
Quoted from vid1900:Whenever it stops stinking, it's ~90% cured.
So we are talking only hours ( maybe 24), not days or weeks?
The data sheet mentions it can be taped in 4 hrs so I presume that means I can mask with gerbermask and should be ok?
If the Gerbermask pulls clear off like the oracal 813, what could that indicate?
Quoted from vid1900:or you are pulling up rather than back against the mask.
I think you nailed it, as I look back on my first try, i think i was indeed pulling up! Damn this learning curve, but many thanks to all your posts and replies.
1 week later
Vid, need some more advise for airbrushing, I can't figure out where I'm going wrong so the Createx doesn't peel. If you can take a peek at this post and let me know what I could be doing wrong / forgetting. Many, many thanks!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania/page/2#post-4013382
1 week later
Quoted from NYP:there is a long learning curve to doing this.
x10 !!
Vid, more advice needed if you please;
Quoted from Atari_Daze:as I was heat curing the white, there were a couple of spots I noticed where the paint was blistering. It was not from my lack of moving the heat gun around as the Createx application guide states can occur. I'm at a loss how it could occur as the surface area was scuffed prior to paint (as done with all my other colors) the area was then wiped down with naptha which was allowed to evaporate / dry prior to paint... again, it was only a couple of small spots, one is about the size of a penny, the other two are about the diameter of a pencil eraser. I'm thinking I should carefully remove the paint where it blisters, fill the area with 2PAC, touch up with color and then seal with another layer of 2PAC?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:If it didn't raise that much under the clear, you could bury it in more clear.
It actually only raised and is only visable when heat is being applied, ive yet to apply any clear, I've a couple little touch ups on other colors.
Sounds like I can just clear over it and see what happens? Knowing I can always touch it up prior to populating the pf?
Quoted from DropTarget:I just got my PF back from the auto body shop.
Pics or it didn't happen 
Seriously though, glad it's working out for you!
1 month later
While it's not been repopulated yet, and being an amateur with Createx and airbrushing, here is a before/ after of an SBM I'm working on.
I did notice the blue used dried darker than when wet, but since my pf either got new paint or new decals, it didn't bug me.
This would not have been undertaken by my w/o this thread by Vid and input from others!
Quoted from La_Porta:I assume then fill with wood putty and re-drill
My guess would be with a piece of dowel.
Quoted from ajfclark:With a counter sink bit.
1 week later
Is Mequires fine-cut cleaner the right product to try and remove the swirls from using Novus2 on this SBM clear? I applied the Novus2 with a single speed buffer using a HF "terry cloth" and found many swirl marks. Should I have used a wool applicator?
I'm trying to find a product I can get from local sources so as not to have to wait for another Amazon two day delivery, I would like to start repolulating this playfield this weekend.
But also don't want to take shortcuts!
Quoted from vid1900:Did some crap get caught in the terry bonnet? THAT will make some swirls.
Only if it was on the bonnet from the factory, as I wiped the playfield down with naptha twice before buffing. I'll try your paper towel suggestion and report back, as always, thanks for your support!
Quoted from vid1900:see all the pits in the clearcoat?
Should I lay down more clear and keep sanding, I didn't want to sand through the clear I had already shot?
I think I have just enough for another coat.
2 months later
Quoted from tomds:Should I use filler on these areas, or top up with clear coat like you would with sunken inserts?
Fill with 2PAC just as you would inserts
Be sure to do your best at sanding inside those divots so the clear can have tooth.
1 week later
Quoted from vid1900:an Xacto #18 works for those who can't sharpen tools
Holy cow, vid you read my mind.
I thought I had a 1/4 chisel, even picked up sharpening stones on the way home from work. I didn't have that small of chisel so i tried that xacto blade and aside from giving me arthritis, it worked beautifully.
Is there anything that guy doesn't know.
Thanks vid!!
3 weeks later
Quoted from phototamer:I use approximately 180 - 200 ml for the whole clear coat process
+1
Edit: (now that I have the hang of the cheap HF HVLP)
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I can really smell the solvents.
The nose knows!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Strummy:Is there a place to read up on this more
Somewhere around here:
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from chubtoad13:It did leave a film in areas. I tried wiping it up before it dried and I tried naphtha
Keep using the naphtha, I just did the same on a Laser Ball, took about 4 or 5 wipedowns to remove all the haze.
4 weeks later
Quoted from yellowghost:Could you explain the process of applying epoxy to the backside of inserts? Is it as easy as it sounds? You use a 2 component epoxy I assume
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-551342
1 month later
Quoted from redrock:I can't find the 20 gauge stranded bare tinned silver wire for the light buss. Solid is readily available, which might be the only alternative. Any suggestions?
2 weeks later
Quoted from vid1900:After you get the Mylar off, pat down the residue glue with white baking flour. Really press it into the glue, and let it sit a few minutes.
Next, wet the flour with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol, and allow it to sit until most of the alcohol has evaporated.
Starting at the edge rub all the glue into little crumbs with your thumb.
Any idea where this method originated? My son and I removed some decals from his Jeep a few weeks back and I tried everything to get the residue off. Then I remembered this technique, it was a little difficult as it was a vertical surface but it worked brilliantly. I got to thinking, who and how on earth decided, let's try flour and alcohol...
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Holy S, I could buy one of these for the cost of ONE of the cartridges for my current Samsung.
GEES.
Pretty sad when one can buy a new printer with cartridges for less than one replacement cartridge. Talk about planned obsolescence!
2 months later
What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?
Surface was prepped and cleaned as this guide instructs.
Temp of pf and 2pac were equal at approx 70F
No noticable problems occurred during initial sanding after about 4 days of cure, only upon removing frisket from first airbrush touch ups did the clear begin to come off in sheets.
Thoughts on remedy, sand down and just start over?
20190310_142815 (resized).jpg20190310_142844 (resized).jpg20190310_142901 (resized).jpgQuoted from vid1900:Bad mix ratio - no, mine is 4 to 1 and I mixed using medicine cups
Gun contaminated with "fish eye reducer" - do not own any
Bad 2PAC- does it expire? Same gallon I've used on previous project
Trap on air compressor full - self draining
Shop rags contaminated with dryer sheets - oh shit, maybe
Mixed in reactive plastic cup - negative
Based on possible items above, remedy?
1 month later
Quoted from plankalkul:Considering removing gorgars eyes to light them up from under the playfield.
While not Gorgar, Motordome did something to achieve similar effect, used a piece of plexi darkened out everywhere except the eyes (slightly larger than Gorgar), made it look like goggles...
I'm in the middle of a restore on a Motordome, sorry don't have a pic of it illuminated.
Quoted from dr_nybble:he other way is to use a small standard insert and make it opaque except for the eyes.
Basically this
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Lots to sort through but should help with the learning curve:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club
1 week later
Quoted from kcZ:Get an airbrush.
https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html
10.99 - 20% coupon, $8.79 - I've worked on 6 machines with this one item.
Quoted from harryhoudini:read all about water decals and how those fix missing inserts, etc... why is that not a good solution?
It is strongly suggested to clear coat your pf before and then after else your waterslide decal will simply wear and come off rather quickly.
Guess it depends if you are doing a restore or applying a band aid.
Quoted from harryhoudini:My plan, per the threads and key posts here, was to clear the insert missing the decal first. At the same time I'd inject and clamp the ghosting one. Then apply the waterslide decal. Then clear the entire playfield.
Is that correct?
Sounds like the gist of it!
I usually replace all the decals but I also tend to replace the inserts too.
Laser Ball with starburst type inserts.
If your inserts have WHITE lettering, water slides will not work unless you have a printer that can print white ink on the clear decal paper. Hence in my LB example inserts that were originally white are black or yellow.
For this reason you would have to use air brushing. I just chose to deviate from original, after all, I deviated by installing modern inserts.
20180923_184222 (resized).jpg20181003_223239 (resized).jpg20181218_214947 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from wolffcub:How are you thinning the paint before using it in the air brush?
Based on what others had said, I tried vehicle windshield washer fluid on my most recent project and it worked great. Just the standard cheap blue stuff not the RAINEX or other stuff with extra additives. I've found almost all of the Createx I get needs some degree of thinning. I don't mind, it makes it shoot great and goes further.
My current Motordome project took 7 custom mixes and standard white and black.
I tried one of the more expensive airbrushes and found it clogged up rather quickly so I switched to the low budget unit that provides almost no flow control or spray control, just basic mass color application.
Like Tommy-dog just stated, practice make perfect, see the walls some of the pics in my paint room?
20190315_215101 (resized).jpg20190325_200501 (resized).jpg20190326_201926 (resized).jpg20190328_214941 (resized).jpg20190401_205301 (resized).jpg20190403_215050 (resized).jpg20190410_180255 (resized).jpg20190410_180311 (resized).jpgMD2 (resized).jpgmd1 (resized).jpgimage_13800 (resized).jpgQuoted from harryhoudini:I am restoring it using the decals which are sold (for the main illusion area and for a few inserts). Can I just lay down a coat of clear, add the decals and then add a few more coats over that? I am envisioning just like the waterslide decals.
Quoted from phototamer:you should rough up the previous coat of clear , and then apply the decals.
Quoted from vid1900:6. Since you need to clear coat over the decals, sand the whole playfield down to 1000 grit so the next layer of clear has some "tooth" to adhere to. Since you can't sand the decals, you need to do this BEFORE you install them.
TIP: use the key posts to sort through this thread:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from harryhoudini:I thought 3 coats of clear would smooth it out a bit, it did not.
To quote from the link provided: "Everyone has the idea in their head that each coat of clear "fills in" or "levels off" dips and depressions in the playfield, but that is not true at all."
Quoted from harryhoudini:On another note, the laser printing on the waterslide was not dark or consistent enough to match the other characters.
Quoted from plankalkul:doubling up on the water slides helps tremendously.
+1, I have even triple layered them. Else fill the void like a cupped insert:
You'll get there, here is where patience and following those who have gone before you pays off!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Can I do the same with the SprayMax in sort of spraying it in to a cup and using an eyedropper to fill in the void?
Check the SprayMax2K topic. I'm not sure as I have only done it with 2 part auto clear. 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
Quoted from Adams_Tales:2) Then what does 'Pinside' recommend:
Begin at the beginning?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547648
3 weeks later
Quoted from PinballShoppe:does it blow air across the top of the paint jar? It says that it doesn't require cleaning the nozzle between colours.
That is the premise, yes. The 'tip' is a small brass screw on nib that when air rushes over it creates a vacuum and thus pulls the paint out the tube inside the canister and then blows it toward your project. I will say it is almost impossible to do shading and or vary the width of your "stroke" but for the type of work I do, this type is trouble free. It is best to place a damp cloth over the tip between coats, it will still clog if it dries, but is a cinch to clean.
1 month later
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:So, what is the consensus of how long to let the clear coat set before playing? I am thinking 30 days.
30ish days is how long I typically wait based on this:
Quoted from vid1900:Really depends on what brand clear you use.
Some softer clears, like the ones CPR uses takes months to completely cure.
The Diamondplate or JC660 that I usually use is hard in less than 30 minutes, but the highest shine takes about 3 weeks of cure before it will totally buff out. So I usually just shelve the playfield for a month and then buff.
In a pinch, I've used an IR lamp to speed curing up, but I'm always worried that the IR might one day raise an insert or something (you know how unpredictable wood is).
I try to save enough project to do during the cure.
1 week later
Quoted from bssbllr:The body shops use the same clear coat but the cars don’t sit there for 30-90 days. They are painted and handed over to the customer. I do believe they tell the customer not to wash it for sometime but not sure.
If I recall, the last time we had body work done, it was 30 before a hand wash and 90 days before a mechanical wash.
1 month later
Quoted from bssbllr:I think also laying down white acts like a primer.
Createx makes a primer, however I simply mix left overs to make a light grey and use that as a primer. 
It sure makes light colors cover up much quicker.
Quoted from vipe155:I have areas worn to wood or places I've had to fill gouges
Quoted from vipe155:and in testing the paint isn't covering that in one coat.
Quoted from vipe155:So should I prime those areas beforehand
Just stick with Createx and 2PAC or the Spraymax 2k and you will be fine.
There is a Spraymax topic you can check out also:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
Quoted from vipe155:I suppose I could just seal the whole thing with a coat of clear and then paint,
^ THIS
Quoted from vid1900:Shoot a thin coat of clear over the playfield to lock down any loose pant and seal the surface.
He is speaking about this procedure for water slide decals but the same holds true for touchups.
2 months later
Quoted from ajfclark:Someone should probably pin it in all of vid1900 's guide threads.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-collected
I have that as a favorite.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Silverstreak02:I’m about to start wet sanding my playfield. What should I use to block off all the holes in the playfield? I don’t want the slurry to get into the wood or under the playfield.
Covered here:
Quoted from StandsOnToes:My problem is there is alot of planking going on on this PF so there is large areas with colored halftones that ill have to deal with.
He prints them on waterslide decals. Below is part 1 of 7 he talks about the half tone process.
For a complete restore, I would paint the base color with Createx, lock that down with a layer of 2PAC, apply the half tone decals, apply lock down layer of 2 PAC over the decals (once set of course).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-551279
Quoted from toasterman04:But when i sand it (120, 220, 400) it comes out quite ‘unclear’
1 month later
Quoted from misterman:slightly raised inserts.
Vid discussed raised aka proud inserts starting on post # 7
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547752
2 months later
I'll +1 the two above posts and add one thing I experienced. When removing frisket, pull it at a 180 degree angle (back on itself).
DO NOT PULL it at 90 degrees (directly up). Let me repeat that, DO NOT PULL 90 DEGREES, it can and likely will lift. I had this happen over and over back on a previous restore.
I had to make it a mantra, PULL 180, PULL 180...
I hope you can imagine what I mean by 180 degrees. I tried to look for an image I made to illustrate it but can't locate it at present.
Quoted from jaybird5619:do you paint black key lines or wet slide decals?
On the SBM example I posted, keylines along with the insert art were done with waterslides.
3 weeks later
Quoted from PinballAir:Use 2k 2pac in a spray bomb.
Same finish.
topic on it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
2 months later
Quoted from sethbenjamin:More important when making decals is minding the printer settings. Color adjustments can alter the output significantly. So you want to be consistent about how you adjust those sliders, and not deviate once you find the right combination. My printer has red, blue and yellow adjustment, as well as contrast and saturation. Had to fiddle with them to dmfind rhe right match to the existing paint, somewhat nerve-wracking...
I used to use a color laser, it would jam and could streak. Now I just take all my printing needs to Kinko's. $1 per page color and like 0.15 for B/W.
It's SO much easier. But then again I have one two miles from where I work.
1 month later
Quoted from dr_nybble:I am using Golden High Flow paints.
Interesting, going to have to investigate!
1 week later
Quoted from alexmogil:The Harbor Freight HVLP guns are $9.99 until October 22nd.
I always keep a new one around 'just in case'. I HATE having to leave something in the middle to make a parts run.
I have one that I modified for shooting latex by following this technique:
2 weeks later
Quoted from mark532011:I'm guessing the only real answer (other than "leave it as is and enjoy") is to remove the whole sheet of mylar, pull the arrows out, glue in flush and then get a new sheet of mylar?
Unless you're going to do a full restore, your assumption above is what I would do.
6 months later
I would encourage anyone just catching this topic here, please start from the beginning.
I've followed VIDs advise and had excellent results.
As far as the clear coat discussion, I'll save you the time:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1668988
And if you don't want to invest in the equipment, this alternative seems good for some:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
1 month later
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I want to buy the smallest compressor possible and the most portable one, so would be interested in using one with the same specs, but he did not say the model nor CFM it was rated for.
I just do not want to buy one that is not going to cut it...
Not sure what the guy in your video uses, but here is what vid says on the topic:
2 weeks later
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I have an issue with my Silhouette software that I’d like to get to the bottom of; it can easily cut out this decal perfectly, but it has to be printed from within its software. Silhouette can’t handle AI files, and something about the exported format tweaks the color palette.
What about exporting the file from AI to a .dxf format, that is what I use to make all my cutting files. Not sure how it will handle colors, but for cuts, it does it perfectly.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Pin_Fandango:Thoughts?
Makita: Powerful 2.5 HP 4-Pole motor produces 4.2 CFM at 90 PSI for increased productivity and lower noise
Vid: Just for a worst case scenario: figure that a HF cheap gun needs to run @ 6 CFM and 47 PSI to smoothly shoot Shopline JC 661 clear.
Taken from: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/5#post-728412
So NO, would not likely work for HVLP spray guns.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Nobody here using these?
Not that have posted any results I've seen. However in just looking up their cost, I paid over $100 less for my 30 gallon Kobalt floor standing oil lubed compressor, found it on CL, guy used it once to spray his deck boards.
Shop around!
pasted_image (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:the inserts are absolutely perfect, nothing has moved.
Is it recommend to re glue them regardless?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-551439
Suggest you scour through this topic over and over prior to any work, I know I did. Sounds like many of your concerns are already answered.
3 weeks later
Quoted from RightNut:After applying touch up paint (either via an airbrush or otherwise), do you need to lightly sand/degloss the paint before applying the next coat of clear?
I've only done 4 playfields but always just shoot clear on top of the dry Createx.
4 months later
I use these to mix small amounts of 2PAC for little jobs.
https://www.amazon.com/300-Count-Disposable-Medicine-Measuring/dp/B09LZBY66S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
2 months later
Quoted from radium:Not really, I’ve had it pull up paint though. I like the 831 because I get sharp lines even though it’s low tack.
I've had those issues. I always have to remind myself to pull it off at a 180 ° angle, not 90.
That greatly reduced the amount of rework I've had to do from paint pulling with the mask.
I use these to get the mask started for removal:
TCP Global 100 Piece Plastic Razor Scraper Blades with Extra Sharp Chisel Edge, Remove Decals, Stickers, Adhesive, Clean Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082MNPYDB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DZJ7W1P5WTGJDMM6SJGY
1 month later
Quoted from A_Bord:Any suggestions for the damaged wood areas here?
Quoted from radium:I would clean it up and paint it with wood tones. Usually you can just shoot translucent tones and blend to hide light damage
Look through the HEP thread, he has done this on shooter lanes in the past.
Not a lot of details, but here is one example.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/219#post-6872652
4 months later
Quoted from joshmc:Really hoping the shellac does it’s job here. Am still wondering what would happen if I just clear coated over the top without the shellac
Wipe that area with Naptha and while it's still wet, you will see how it would look if you just applied the clear now.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:can you use the translucent createx to give it the same look that HEP gets? I want it to camouflage but still see the grain underneath
Here is one place he discusses his technique.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/7#post-4611432
3 months later
9 months later
Quoted from Spunky1562:Should I just wait a few more days for Createx to dry and then try again?
All the Createx I ever used was cured by heat, not time.
One uses a heat gun to set it.
1 week later
Quoted from Mikespinball:Doesn’t appear to be a thread on this or I have missed it.
Here ya go.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide
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