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File this under learning opportunities: When cutting my frisket my exacto dulled and started digging into the playfield, leaving scars here and there. I've painted over them but didn't fill them in ahead of time. Do I trust that these won't be visible after clear or do I redo this, sanding these areas flatter between paint coats?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Really nice work!
Yeah, just excellent. Thanks for sharing.
Quoted from radium:Tearing down my F-14 for a hardtop install, but now I’m looking at it thinking maybe I should restore this PF instead. What do you guys think? I will be replacing all the arrow inserts.
[quoted image]
That looks very restorable. Hardtops are cool for a totally blown pf. I wouldn't sand down anything with that much paint still attached. If you mess up the restore then go HT.
Considering working out of order on a Cheetah since the inserts are out and I'm more or less repainting all the large areas. Winter here so it will be a while before I can spray.
PXL_20220210_203001199 (resized).jpg
Thoughts on doing some painting before the lockdown clear? Playfield paint is stable despite how torn up everything is. Do I screw things up by not painting on a flat surface like the clear would give me? Any reason not to paint before inserts go back in?
Just thinking through how flexible I can be with order before introducing major headaches.
Quoted from vid1900:Usually the frisket will pull off paint without the lockdown clear to hold it down
Also the bare wood will absorb more paint than the painted areas, so sometimes you get a weird effect
and of course I'd worry that the overspray would go down the insert holes, possibly making the inserts tough to re-install.
I do paint things out of order all the time, but this would not be one of them....
Exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks!
After a successful airbrushing session I was met with a total mess - frisket left residue on every inch that it was laid down on.
Two questions:
Is there a preferred alternate to this stuff? This is my second roll that does this, put down and pulled off on the same day:
https://smile.amazon.com/Grafix-Self-Adhering-Removeable-Airbrushing-Watercolors/dp/B0027A5HHM
Is there a good way to get rid of all that residue? I've tried a variety of things but none of it great. Last time I used alcohol. I'm worried about damaging my new paint by scrubbing right up to it.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:You paint the liquid frisket around all the detailed areas using Grafix Incredible Nib and wait for it to dry clear which takes maybe 20 minutes, and then mask off the larger areas of the playfield with paper so that you don't waste so much of the liquid frisket.
Do you try to paint it right up to the keyline or overpaint then cut with a blade like you would with a traditional frisket?
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Well, damn! There’s no arguing with those results!
I’d like to investigate that further…So, you’re applying a pretty small amount of the liquid frisket, just in the immediate area you need to mask? Not covering larger areas? I admit I’m having a little bit of trouble envisioning the process…
The results look spot on - nice work!
I'm going to give this a shot. Seems like it will cost a fortune in liquid frisket considering the amount of area I need to repaint.
Quoted from radium:I do almost everything with Oracal 813, gerbermask, or green frog tape.
For cutting masks I use smallest possible piece of stencil material and then lay out scraps of rosin paper to cover around it.
No residue left behind with masking materials?
On a playfield with a lot of planking does it make sense to try to fill the cracks with a similarly toned paint before the lockdown clear so that the dark areas of wood don't necessitate a thicker layer of paint for coverage? Not trying to retouch before clear, just set up a better base once it is time to airbrush.
Quoted from phototamer:It would be near to impossible to get an exact match to fill the planking. I would seal everything with a first layer of clear , block sand to 400-600 grit to get an even flat surface and go from there. Since the area is large , airbrushing seems the logical way to proceed.
That's the plan. Maybe my question wasn't clear. I'm wondering if getting some lighter paint in the planking before the first clear application might make my life easier when going to airbrush.
Quoted from dr_nybble:That light green might not be very opaque. When the playfield was originally screened, underneath all the colours is a layer of opaque white ink. You may end up getting better coverage/fewer coats by first spraying white, then your colour. Worth testing on a scrap.
That's what I figured. As soon as I get close to yellow I start getting nervous. Yellow coverage sucks.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Wipe that area with Naptha and while it's still wet, you will see how it would look if you just applied the clear now.
This.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:I bought some Rapid Prep for cleaning the playfield before clearcoating. Does it have to be cleaned off with naphtha afterwards? My state banned naphtha. Wondering what the alternative is to clean it off, or does it evaporate on its own?
I follow the instruction on the Rapid Prep bottle. From memory it just says to wet the surface, wait a moment, then wipe it off with a clean rag. I'm 4 playfields in with this technique and no fisheyes. Don't put Rapid Prep over touch-ups, though. Takes new paint right off.
Quoted from KalleColucci:Hello everyone, does somebody have an idea what to do with THAT... its quite ruff.
Thought about touching up with epoxy and a brush, let is soak and aply additional layers. Sand afterward and polish.
Tanks in advance for any advise
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It looks like maybe you haven't done this yet: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/3#post-640071
Start there and then assess next steps.
Better to have it come up now and not after the final coat. Clean, scuff, spray. You might consider putting your masking material elsewhere on the pf to pull up any other loose areas before progressing.
I had this happen once. Likely insufficient scuffing during surface prep.
You're probably ok. As insurance you could wipe those areas with rapid prep.
https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Cleaner-Graphics-Decals-Gallon/dp/B006RUH9I8
Quoted from BMGfan:Cleaning was done with standard kitchen paper towels.
I don't really think this is your problem, but it is worth mentioning that most kitchen paper towels are treated with a chemical to aid absorption that leaves behind a residue. If you've ever tried to clean a piece of glass streak-free with one you've seen the effects of that chemical. There are paper towels specifically labeled for glass that do not contain this.
Dry sand everything as flat possible without hitting paint. You might even consider using a razor to shave down those chunks if they are very proud.
Quoted from Mjt311:Hoping to get some advice stat. For one reason or another when I shot my second coat of 2PAC, “chunks” of clear were shot onto the field, additionally, parts of the field have a matte finish from a dry spray effect. Needless to say I am going to repair and shoot another coat. My question is should I dry sand the field, or wet sand? If so which grit would you start with and stop with? I am not even 24 hours post spray and will be sanding tonight in the 24-48 hour window. Thanks for any info someone can give me.
Quoted from Spunky1562:Thanks for all the help so far! I had an insert ghost while buffing. I chipped and cut out the clear as shown.
How thick should the clear coat be? My factory coat plus new coat is .8 mm thick.
I’m going to sand the insert with 360grit, fill it with clear and then sand the whole playfield down with 600 and reclear it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I aim for as thin as possible without risking cutting through to paint. Typically a first clear application for leveling and a good base for touchups, then a final application over the paint work. Another coat in between if necessary to lock down paint.
Quoted from Spunky1562:I’ve got three separate full coats (three light coats each as per Omni instructions) over several months with paint touch ups in between. I wasn’t sure if I was going way too thick or thin, so it sounds like I can sand a bit off and put one final coat (fingers crossed) after this insert repaint.
That sounds right. I don't see a benefit to thick coats until the final. You want your paint touch ups as close to the playfield surface as possible. It's just tricky getting things flat without going heavy.
Quoted from dr_nybble:I have a NOS Egg Head playfield that a previous owner cleared with automotive clear coat.
However the grid of inserts are somewhat sunken -- think I have to reclear and try to level them off.
Is the technique to eyedropper in clear then spray the playfield right after? On a previous playfield I dripped clear but let it dry and it was a bugger to make it blend.
I guess I should ensure the inserts are also not going to move any more by adding some superglue?
Reinforce the inserts with epoxy from behind. Put it on a toothpick and do the perimeter where the plastic meets wood.
I found it best to drip in clear after you spray. If you drip first the blast of spray can displace the clear you pooled up. It also make it easier to see your low spots when you have a layer of wet clear down.
Post some pics of that Egg Head. Sounds awesome!
Quoted from Enochsmoken:I was filing a star rollover to remove excess clear and couple of pieces of clear popped off. What is the best way to fix this?
[quoted image]
I have fixed this with a drop of CA glue wicked beneath the lifted clear.
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