Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996Quoted from Rondogg:What about your thoughts for a partial clearcoat? The area would really only be about 4"x8"...
It's tough to do, but I guess it's possible.
Try to map out where the edges of the new clear meet the old, and make sure those areas are places that will get no (or very little) ball travel.
Ending in protected areas like under plastics or between lanes would work.
Quoted from vid1900:It's tough to do, but I guess it's possible.
Try to map out where the edges of the new clear meet the old, and make sure those areas are places that will get no (or very little) ball travel.
Ending in protected areas like under plastics or between lanes would work.
What would happen if I feathered the edges after dropping a couple of layers of clearcoat?
Quoted from Rondogg:What would happen if I feathered the edges after dropping a couple of layers of clearcoat?
Just like on a car, the thin, feathered part of the clear lifts off.
That's why on autos, the repair always goes all the way to the edge of the panel...
I hope you guys are at least removing components on the surface, Masking them is too obvious. I've seen enough to push me out of this hobby only because I've seen enough to get me there
Quoted from Rondogg:Not even regularly waxed home use only?
The edge where the clear ends is simply weak, so you need to make sure that any transition is not a high traffic area.
If there was any easy way to do it, we'd all be doing it.
Too many people permanently wreck their playfields by using water based clears that turn yellow, craft store paints that fade, vinyl decals that shrink.......
I'm prepping my Space Shuttle playfield for an Ed Cheung overlay. The artwork was trashed, so I've sanded down the whole playfield to bare wood. Previous owner had played with rusty/scabby balls for years then just let it sit.
How do I prep the bare wood for the overlay and then eventual 2pac clearcoat? Should I just use 2pac on the bare wood and then apply the overlay and insert text decals? Or should I seal the bare wood with something like water-based varathane first prior to 2pac clear coat + overlay + 2pac clear coat again?
My initial thought was to perform the following stepwise process: 2pac to bare wood -> sand lightly -> apply overlay and insert decals -> 2pac again, with sanding/leveling/polishing. But now I am hesitating because I don't know how the 2pac will adhere to bare wood.
FYI, I am using the 2k Spraymax 2pac in a rattle can.
Thank you so much for a great guide, Vid!
Since you don't care if the Varathane turns yellow/amber under the overlay, you can use it (although 2PAC would be WAY faster to build up a completely level surface).
Dampen the raw wood with water, allow to dry, then gently sand back the raised grain before you Varathane.
You will probably have to tone the wood of the shooter lane or it will look too white vs. the rails.
Quoted from scampcamp:Is this called crazing?
You can see that the paint has checked along the grain lines. Most would call this **planking**.
Quoted from scampcamp:How can it be fixed?
Remove the Mylar, sand, repaint, reclear.
There are pics of this exact same repair in the first few pages of this thread.
Quoted from scampcamp:Would 1 of those playfield protectors from Germany make it look good?
It will make it flat, but it won't make it look good.
They make replacement playfields in Germany - that would make it look good.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demand-check-f14-tom-cat
I have a pf I am just about ready to clearcoat for the first time. I have repainted most of it. I was thinking about using the SprayMax 2PAC.
I live in the NE so it is 40-50s outside. My garage can be heated. I plan to level the pf in the cab (its an EM) and spray it while still in the cab (sealing everything else off, of course).
My question is...could I spray the clear while I am outside (in the cold) and then immediately move it into the heated garage to cure between coats? Would I get the temperature related issues if I did this?
My reason for spraying outside is seems easier than building a spray booth in the garage, but I am not sure if the temporary exposure to coolers temps while spraying will create problems. Once it is in the garage, it will be in a more temperature controlled environment while it cures.
I've got a friend who's thinking of restoring his Firepower II. I don't have a picture of his playfield, but I found one that's probably comparable. The sheer amount of wear isn't the same as his, but the type is.
This is a far cry from the solid black lines and single-color fills of something like Taxi. How would you approach something like this? I feel like the Giant Sledgehammer approach would be to paint the whole field black and then use white-backed decals, but that just seems way over the top.
Quoted from PersonX99:I have a pf I am just about ready to clearcoat for the first time. I have repainted most of it. I was thinking about using the SprayMax 2PAC.
I live in the NE so it is 40-50s outside. My garage can be heated. I plan to level the pf in the cab (its an EM) and spray it while still in the cab (sealing everything else off, of course).
My question is...could I spray the clear while I am outside (in the cold) and then immediately move it into the heated garage to cure between coats? Would I get the temperature related issues if I did this?
My reason for spraying outside is seems easier than building a spray booth in the garage, but I am not sure if the temporary exposure to coolers temps while spraying will create problems. Once it is in the garage, it will be in a more temperature controlled environment while it cures.
A lot of the flow out occurs as your spray lands. The aerosolized clear will cool very rapidly if it is sprayed through cold air. It will not matter that the gun is warm and that the PF is warm. I don't think you will like the result.
Quoted from PersonX99:My question is...could I spray the clear while I am outside (in the cold) and then immediately move it into the heated garage to cure between coats? Would I get the temperature related issues if I did this?
I've never shot Spraymax (it's way too expensive compared to 2PAC), but shooting in the cold will end up a disaster.
Make sure the spray, the playfield and the garage are all up to the temp on the can for 12 hours, and shoot in the garage.
Quoted from vid1900:I've never shot Spraymax (it's way too expensive compared to 2PAC), but shooting in the cold will end up a disaster.
Make sure the spray, the playfield and the garage are all up to the temp on the can for 12 hours, and shoot in the garage.
Good to know, thanks....I will build a temporary spray booth, keep the garage heated during the process, and hopefully I will avoid a disaster. 
Quoted from UvulaBob:This is a far cry from the solid black lines and single-color fills of something like Taxi. How would you approach something like this?
Scan, repair in photoshop, paint solid areas, decals over the top.
See if you can find a good scan of the playfield, and that will save you all the redrawing
What's your thought on this vertical crack on a time warp? It does not appear to go to the other side. Visually it's not on the bottom of the play field. Maybe use a hypodermic needle to inject epoxy? I really do not want to paint the wood area and kee it natural wood but this is right in. Plain site. This is also get a full restoration/clear coat FYI. Maybe it was a wood defect to begin with? I don't want it propagating especially once cleared.
It looks like a natural defect in the wood, almost like it stressed out of that knot.
Where it will be covered with paint, you can just make a V-groove, cut out the loose wood and fill.
If you don't want to try painting the wood, then get a piece of Maple veneer, rout out the exposed triangle of wood up to the painted part, glue in the veneer, and stain to match the rest of the wood. Because the edge of the entire patch is hidden, no one will ever know.....
Which pf would be a better candidate to touchup/restore?
A - Has wear on top, but mainly over solid colors and further from the eyes. Has planking and yellowing. But has factory mylar and nice inserts.
B - Most mylar removed. No planking. Embedded dirty swirls/cracks alcohol unable to remove without taking off paint. Worn inserts and insert edges. Not much wear other than a few areas.
Not sure if I go with the yellowed, planking game while having to remove mylar. Or... touching up and replacing inserts on the other. I believe I can just clear over non-laminated decal set which would take care of the worn maze section(after replacing all square inserts). Ready to gets my hands dirty attempting some touch ups and possible clearing on one of these. I'll end up selling the other.
Quoted from vid1900:If you can safely remove the Mylar, that is the one I would choose to restore.
This is an interesting case study. Can you elaborate on the reasons why you would chose A over B, Vid?
Quoted from Fytr:This is an interesting case study. Can you elaborate on the reasons why you would chose A over B, Vid?
I'd have to see them both in person to give you any meaningful reasons.
But on my phone, that is my choice.
Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this, but I have a HUO WOZ which I purchased NIB in April. I just noticed a very small hairline crack in the clear coat running from a post to and partially around an insert. Please see this photo where I tried to show the path of the crack with arrows. You will likely need to click on the picture to see it larger.
Clear coat crack (resized).jpg
For all I know, the game came this way and nothing has changed for months. On the other hand, perhaps it developed recently. My question is whether I should do anything about it, and if so what? Should I put a piece of mylar over the space, or will that not really do anything? Will it risk lifting more of the clear if the mylar is ever removed? Should I put a metal washer on the bottom of the post to even out the pressure in case vibration from the sling is causing this?
Thanks for the advice!
Quoted from Nokoro:Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this
You found the right place.
Quoted from Nokoro:I have a HUO WOZ which I purchased NIB in April. I just noticed a very small hairline crack in the clear coat running from a post to and partially around an insert.
The crack going around the insert is from the plastic of the insert expanding and contracting at a different rate than the surrounding wood.
Although this sucks, you see it on a lot of games. Even though the game is still under warranty, I doubt that Jack will do anything about it.
Keep an eye on that insert and make sure it is not loose or rising from the playfield.
-
Now the crack running from the post might be a scratch from when the game was assembled.
Can we see a pic with the post removed?
Quoted from PersonX99:My question is...could I spray the clear while I am outside (in the cold)
I used spraymax at 60* and it was perfect. Autobody guys will say no less than 55*. I live in Alaska and did this just before winter. October ish. Looks beautiful.
Quoted from vid1900:You found the right place.
The crack going around the insert is from the plastic of the insert expanding and contracting at a different rate than the surrounding wood.
Although this sucks, you see it on a lot of games. Even though the game is still under warranty, I doubt that Jack will do anything about it.
Keep an eye on that insert and make sure it is not loose or rising from the playfield.
-
Now the crack running from the post might be a scratch from when the game was assembled.
Can we see a pic with the post removed?
I'm pretty sure the warranty was only 30 days for things other than boards.
Anyway, here is a picture with the post off:
It does look like the crack starts (or ends) at the post hole. It looks to be more of a crack than a scratch.
As for the insert, the horse one and the crystal ball one actually have a crack around it. You can definitely feel it with your fingers. The inserts don't feel loose, but they may be raised just a tiny bit. It is quite small, and if they are raised a bit, it doesn't compare to the feel of the factory installed mylar in other places which is quite prominent.
I'm fine with taking a wait and see approach. Let me know what you think, or if you think I should be more proactive. Also, if things start getting worse, what would I do?
Thanks again!
When I bought my house I put in a bid and the bid was accepted. Then I did a real walkthrough of the house. No major problems until I got to the basement. I saw a long crack in the floor. I freaked out. I worried about getting out of the deal and whether it would pass inspection due to the crack in the foundation. It was a HUD home so it hadn't been lived in for a long time and there was an empty inground pool right next to the house which had been unfilled for who knows how long. Was the house going to slide into the pool? Did this happen recently? Will the house be condemned?
When the house was inspected I paid for the inspector to be a structural engineer. He did a thorough inspection and I told him about the crack ahead of time. Actual conversation from 16 years ago:
Me: What did you find out about the crack in the floor?
Him: Just a settlement crack, most homes have them.
Me: Was it caused by the pool, is my house going to fall in to the pool?
Him: No.
Me: Well when did this happen?
Him: I would guess 30 years ago when the house was built.
Me: Well what should I do about it.
Him: Well you could have it completely dug out and replace all the concrete but the crack may reappear and it's going to cost around $40k.
Me: OMG what would you do?!?!?
Him: I'd throw a rug over it and forget it's there.
Quoted from Rondogg:When I bought my house I put in a bid and the bid was accepted. Then I did a real walkthrough of the house. No major problems until I got to the basement. I saw a long crack in the floor. I freaked out. I worried about getting out of the deal and whether it would pass inspection due to the crack in the foundation. It was a HUD home so it hadn't been lived in for a long time and there was an empty inground pool right next to the house which had been unfilled for who knows how long. Was the house going to slide into the pool? Did this happen recently? Will the house be condemned?
When the house was inspected I paid for the inspector to be a structural engineer. He did a thorough inspection and I told him about the crack ahead of time. Actual conversation from 16 years ago:
Me: What did you find out about the crack in the floor?
Him: Just a settlement crack, most homes have them.
Me: Was it caused by the pool, is my house going to fall in to the pool?
Him: No.
Me: Well when did this happen?
Him: I would guess 30 years ago when the house was built.
Me: Well what should I do about it.
Him: Well you could have it completely dug out and replace all the concrete but the crack may reappear and it's going to cost around $40k.
Me: OMG what would you do?!?!?
Him: I'd throw a rug over it and forget it's there.
I'm perfectly happy taking this attitude to the apparent minor crack in my clear coat assuming the situation is analogous. As it is, the crack could have been there for months, and I never noticed it. The only reason I noticed it is because I was moving my finger along the playfield and noticed something that felt funny. So, if the consensus is just don't worry about it and enjoy the game, I'm fine with that. Same with the inserts. However, if there is something proactive I should do to prevent anything worse happening, I would like to know.
This is a HUO pin that gets about 1-3 plays a day (a bit more on weekends or obviously if friends are over). I clean, wax and replace the balls regularly. So, under these circumstances, if I should just sit tight and relax, that's music to my ears.
Quoted from Nokoro:It does look like the crack starts (or ends) at the post hole. It looks to be more of a crack than a scratch.
Yes, it's a crack.
Good news is that is has ended on both ends, so it's not like it's going to keep cracking.
As long as that insert does not grow taller, you are probably in good shape.
Keep a close eye on it.
Quoted from vid1900:Yes, it's a crack.
Good news is that is has ended on both ends, so it's not like it's going to keep cracking.
As long as that insert does not grow taller, you are probably in good shape.
Keep a close eye on it.
Will do. Thanks again!
Hi Vid,
Do you have any tips when cutting frisket when it is not straight? I find it very hard to get a good result when cutting around things..
Quoted from tezting:Hi Vid,
Do you have any tips when cutting frisket when it is not straight? I find it very hard to get a good result when cutting around things..
A "french curve ruler" for $1 at any office supply store will do you well.
Quoted from vid1900:A "french curve ruler" for $1 at any office supply store will do you well.
Will buy it right away.
Are there any tips when it has to be freehand? I find it hard to make it "smooth"
Quoted from vid1900:Use an Xacto blade (brand new), follow the french curve = smooth as silk.
Will this one do the job?
Quoted from vid1900:Usually they are thin metal and come in a set of 3
Thank you.
I can only find plastic ones 
You don't know if eBay etc. has the perfect ones in metal? My search skills are failing me.
Quoted from tezting:Thank you.
I can only find plastic ones
You don't know if eBay etc. has the perfect ones in metal? My search skills are failing me.
Here ya go. Just another $90 tool to add to your cart! Probably WAY better than trying to use plastic, though.
http://www.sterlingtoolworks.com/store/#!/Sterling-Roubo-Curves/p/52063286/category=12516967
My Raven has Mylar in the center of the PF. I can feel the lip & it's noticeable after waxing. Sometimes it changes the direction of the ball, usually on the slower ones. Is there a way to make the ridge any smoother?
Quoted from Topher5000:My Raven has Mylar in the center of the PF. I can feel the lip & it's noticeable after waxing. Sometimes it changes the direction of the ball, usually on the slower ones. Is there a way to make the ridge any smoother?
That's been a complaint about Mylar since they first starting using it.
It just adds one more reason to the old saying that "the ball is wild".....
What's the consensus on covering up lettering while painting over large worn areas or frisket around existing text/ numbers while painting?
For example vid on a time warp upper play field red. Either frisket around all text or spray entire area red and add letters back in water slide form? I feel you would get better results with the water slide method?
Quoted from Langless28:What's the consensus on covering up lettering while painting over large worn areas or frisket around existing text/ numbers while painting?
For example vid on a time warp upper play field red. Either frisket around all text or spray entire area red and add letters back in water slide form? I feel you would get better results with the water slide method?
I usually spray the entire area, and then apply the black text.
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Sana'a
Edmonton, AB
Holland, MI