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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,108 posts
  • 666 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Atari_Daze
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There are 7108 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 143.
#2751 4 years ago

Its just a mere flesh wound..

#2752 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I usually drip clear into low spots before I spray on the clear coat.

Will do!! Do you let that clear dry, sand it even with the surrounding surface, and then lay down the remainder of clear? Thanks again vid

#2753 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Will do!! Do you let that clear dry, sand it even with the surrounding surface, and then lay down the remainder of clear? Thanks again vid

No, don't wait for it to dry, just shoot your layer of clear.

You will sand it all flat latter.

#2754 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Light up inserts from the front with a flashlight and check each one for damage. You want to look from the back because there will be less to distract your eye.
You can sometimes reinforce a broken insert with epoxy and chopped glass fibers, but if you are putting a lot of work into a machine, you probably want to order new inserts from Gene at Illinois Pinball.
2.jpg

Now that Gene is long out of business, any idea where you can buy the f-14 tomcat blue and red chevron inserts?

#2755 4 years ago

The red are still used in all the MM remakes, so those should be findable.

The blue have been MIA for a while.

#2756 4 years ago

Vid any advice for that ball divot on my JM? id like to handle myself but im sure its way out of my league. thanks and Merry Christmas!

#2757 4 years ago
Quoted from Redeyes:

Vid any advice for that ball divot on my JM? id like to handle myself but im sure its way out of my league. thanks and Merry Christmas!

Are you going to clear the whole playfield or just fix the divot?

#2758 4 years ago

Like to clear the whole thing but thats gona take months as i dont know anyone around my area in PA. if there is an easy soultion to divot im all hears. Thanks!

#2759 4 years ago
Quoted from Redeyes:

Like to clear the whole thing but thats gona take months as i dont know anyone around my area in PA. if there is an easy soultion to divot im all hears. Thanks!

There is an easy solution if you are clearing the playfield, but otherwise you are screwed.

Wax the divot and surrounding area, and put a Mylar patch over it so the divot does not wear.

#2760 4 years ago

Got all new pf inserts glued into an Air Aces pf for a pin I'm restoring for a friend using the info I've gotten from this thread. Just wanted to say thanks Vid.

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It will be getting shipped off to HSA this week to get the art work fixed. It's a little more art work repair than I would feel comfortable doing on someone else's pf. Thanks again Vid Mike

#2761 4 years ago

There is a TAF near me that was recently listed for sale and I'm pretty interested. In one of the images it appears that a section of clear coat is missing on the "Hit Cousin It" insert (shown below). Can anything be done to repair/stabilize the area?

ec90653e95449f1d06dbe3730fd36fcfe6a99b4f_(resized).jpg

#2762 4 years ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

In one of the images it appears that a section of clear coat is missing on the "Hit Cousin It" insert (shown below). Can anything be done to repair/stabilize the area?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-551833

Touch up the black printing and they inject clear under the lifting section.

#2763 4 years ago

What's the best way to handle the paint loss, I tried to touch it up using those paints from Michaels but wasn't happy with the results so I just wiped it off, I want it to look natural and flow into the other paint. I'm sure somewhere in this thread it's been covered but this is one huge thread.

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#2764 4 years ago
Quoted from REMPins:

What's the best way to handle the paint loss, I tried to touch it up using those paints from Michaels but wasn't happy with the results so I just wiped it off

That cheap paint from Michaels does not have enough pigment in it, so it needs to be too thick to get full coverage, and it fades fast.

Get some professional paints from Createx to start your restoration. Get their opaque kit, and them some special colors (like Fluorescent Magenta).

Quoted from REMPins:

I want it to look natural and flow into the other paint.

That can't be done, unfortunately.

Ever notice that when you scratch your car door, the guys at the dealer have to paint the entire door?

Even though they have the FACTORY paint, your car door has faded and has a grain to it - any patch will look like a patch.

-

Your playfield has 50 years of fade, so even if you found the factory paint, it would not match.

So you will take the closest color (Fluorescent Magenta maybe?) and then tone it up or down with black or white paint until you have a 98% match. Then you will repaint all the magenta in the area at one time. Now there is no patch; nothing to catch the eye.

Scan the area before you start, so you can print waterslide decals to restore the black keylining.

#2766 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Scan the area before you start, so you can print waterslide decals to restore the black keylining.

How would you do white letters?

#2767 4 years ago

Vid,

I have a fully clear-coated, cured playfield. My kid put one of the balls back in unbeknownst to me and when I lifted the playfield up, you know the drill. Left a nice (but small) gouge see here in pic next to the "Pot".

My plan was to drop a tiny bit of clear in, paint white over it with a tiny brush, and then paint clear on that. Is this how you'd tackle it?

20160101_120155_(resized).jpg

#2768 4 years ago
Quoted from Iizi:

How would you do white letters?

The local hobby shop has a printer that can print with white, gold or silver inks.

#2769 4 years ago

Hi Vid. Thanks for the advise.

OK I have taked out the inserts that were not well glued and have hardly cleaned all the sticky glue from all the inserts. I also have accentuated a bit the small grove between the insert and the wood so the new epoxy glue have a good bound.

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Now I'm ready to re glue all but cant find the 3M C596 primer here in Europe. So if some one else have find it please share the link.

I have also digitized the playfield and I'm doing some decals to print. I have only tow minor problems with the paint that is bit damaged where the spring steel from ramps meets the playfield and the square hole in the "neutral zone". In the hole the wood need to be repaired and painted to the color then applied a decal with the black line, I guess. But in the ramps I realy don´t know what to do. What do you suggest on this situation? Please see the pictures:

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I'm also trying to find the PPG clear but no success until now. So again if someone in EU have find it please share.
Thanks again for this great thread Vid.

#2770 4 years ago
Quoted from abukede:

I have only tow minor problems with the paint that is bit damaged where the spring steel from ramps

You can't match and touch up that mauve color, so just make sure the ramp is tightened while being pushed all the way forward upon reassembly.

#2771 4 years ago

Hi all.

Just a bit off information about my research on the PPG JC660 here in Portugal/EU.

Acording the distributor here in Portugal this code "JC660" is a US only reference and here in Europe the equivalent product is the QUICK LINE QC7500 that in the UK as a diferente code QC7600. I'm a bit confuse about those tow codes and I realy don't know if in fact they are identical. The QC7600 datasheet is identical to the JC660 and the QC7500 don't say nothing about Acrylic Urethane clear?!

Maybe someone can clarify this...

Thanks

#2772 4 years ago

Hi Vid,
How about a mini howto on this guy?

image_(resized).jpeg

#2773 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Hi Vid,
How about a mini howto on this guy?

WOZ is a tough one to match with a decal, so I would expand the black edge keyline.

Using frisket, I'd mask off the curve just inside those chips and paint it black to the edge.

#2774 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

WOZ is a tough one to match with a decal, so I would expand the black edge keyline.
Using frisket, I'd mask off the curve just inside those chips and paint it black to the edge.

First off, thanks vid!
Didn't think of that, expanding the black line. Now how to prep the damaged area? Can I exacto cut away loose clear, or dremel buff it somehow? Or will the paint fill it adequately?

#2775 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

Now how to prep the damaged area? Can I exacto cut away loose clear, or dremel buff it somehow? Or will the paint fill it adequately?

You can drip some new clear and let it get wicked under any voids, gluing down loose flakes.

Sand with 800 grit, frisket, paint, clear over the top.

#2776 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can drip some new clear and let it get wicked under any voids, gluing down loose flakes.
Sand with 800 grit, frisket, paint, clear over the top.

Awesome! Thanks again vid.

#2777 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

5. Make sure you have your first coat of clear on the playfield before installing WSDs. You don't want a different tension above the decal than below it; or you might get ghosting (decal ghosting is where the decal lifts from the insert).

Vid, what do you think about using a high gloss sealant spray after the decal has set to help protect it when applying clear coat?

#2778 4 years ago
Quoted from feltz:

Vid, what do you think about using a high gloss sealant spray after the decal has set to help protect it when applying clear coat?

High gloss sounds like something the clearcoat won't stick to.

#2779 4 years ago

Vid,

I have cleared my PF, but I need to spray some areas white in order to lay down some clear decals to get the right look. Do I need to clear the white before applying the decals? I was hoping to skip that step.

#2780 4 years ago

If the white is glossy enough for the decal to stick, you might be able to skip the clear.

#2781 4 years ago
Quoted from packie1:

Vid,
I have cleared my PF, but I need to spray some areas white in order to lay down some clear decals to get the right look. Do I need to clear the white before applying the decals? I was hoping to skip that step.

I'm interested to hear how this worked out.

#2782 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If the white is glossy enough for the decal to stick, you might be able to skip the clear.

Thanks I will give that a try this weekend.
Please see my forum titled Bally Eight Ball Restoration for Charity Event by packie1 to see what I am up to.
Thanks vid for all your help.

#2783 4 years ago

Hi vid,
I am mixing paint in small plastic jars. Is it safe to put a small zinc plated nut in the jar for better mixing? (Like the ball in spray paint)

#2784 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Hi vid,
I am mixing paint in small plastic jars. Is it safe to put a small zinc plated nut in the jar for better mixing? (Like the ball in spray paint)

A glass marble is safe.

I'd worry that a the steel nut will rust, zinc or not.

#2785 4 years ago

Hi,

I used genuine Frisket for the blank, but I have white traces on the black on the edges. What did I wrong ? Its is not a big issue as I will paint the black at the end, but I might have the same problem with the black on the white.

I read that you can spread one layer of Createx and it covers everything. I have a Iwata neo 0.5. if I put the color as such in the airbrush, the colour is too thick, and quickly blocks the airbrush. So I mix it with 1/3 tinner. I need 4 layers for a perfect result.

Thanks for the help.

image_(resized).jpeg

#2786 4 years ago
Quoted from jimy_speedt:

I used genuine Frisket for the blank, but I have white traces on the black on the edges.

Either you did not press the edge of the Frisket down with your fingernail after cutting/weeding, or it's a bad roll of Frisket.

#2787 4 years ago

ok, I will pay attention to it for the next one, I used he finger not the nail. thank you !

#2788 4 years ago

Could I just pay my local auto body shop to clear coat a playfield? Anyone ever try it? Auto body rates are cheap in MA.

#2789 4 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Could I just pay my local auto body shop to clear coat a playfield? Anyone ever try it? Auto body rates are cheap in MA.

Lot's of people have done it, usually with backyard car painters.

#2790 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Lot's of people have done it, usually with backyard car painters.

so what would I actually ask a local car body shop if I wanted to see if they can do one of my PF? Just if they could give it a couple coat of automotive clear coat? What would be a 'normal' price range to see if they are not trying to rip me off?

#2791 4 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

so what would I actually ask a local car body shop if I wanted to see if they can do one of my PF? Just if they could give it a couple coat of automotive clear coat? What would be a 'normal' price range to see if they are not trying to rip me off?

Tell them that you want a them to shoot a pinball playfield, FLAT ON IT'S BACK with 2PAC.

Tell them you will have it pre sanded with 1000 grit.

Try for $50

#2792 4 years ago

cool thanks, I ll give it a try

1 week later
#2793 4 years ago

Hey Vid, My clear is separating from itself. What is going on??? I have done three fields before this with no issues all prepped the same exact way. Now this

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#2794 4 years ago

Silicone? Oil? Something is not agreeing with the clear.

#2795 4 years ago
Quoted from slgerber:

Silicone? Oil? Something is not agreeing with the clear.

Exactly what I am thinking. I wiped the whole play field down many times with Naptha during prep and before spraying.

#2796 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

My clear is separating from itself. What is going on??? I have done three fields before this with no issues all prepped the same exact way. Now this

That is the wonders of Silicone unfortunately.

Somebody used Pledge, Wildcat, or some other **great** chemical on that playfield and the silicone got into the pores of the wood.

-

The good news is that if you sand with 600, and then rough up the insides of those craters, the next coat of clear will lay out normally.

Throw out the old sandpaper you used on that playfield, it is now completely contaminated.

#2797 4 years ago

Thats gonna take forever. Those craters are everywhere, and you know what you're right because all of the spots where those are, they are spots where the ball frequently travels during game play and are the most easily excesible for waxing out in the open. Underneath where the ramps mount the clear laid down flawlessly.

So my next step should be to block it all completely down with 600?

#2798 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Thats gonna take forever.

This happened to me on my Dr. Dude restore. The entire playfield fisheyed. The whole thing. Block sanded it down, used a brass brush to scratch up the craters that remained. The next coat took great and filled up nearly all the craters. Blocked sanded one more time. Another coat. Good as new.

It looks like a nightmare but it's no big deal to fix.

#2799 4 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

This happened to me on my Dr. Dude restore. The entire playfield fisheyed. The whole thing. Block sanded it down, used a brass brush to scratch up the craters that remained. The next coat took great and filled up nearly all the craters. Blocked sanded one more time. Another coat. Good as new.
It looks like a nightmare but it's no big deal to fix.

me too, on my old High hand. Turned out OK, just a LOT of sanding.

#2800 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

So my next step should be to block it all completely down with 600?

You don't have to take it too far down.
-

Hit it with 600 so you flatten the playfield.

Now you can see all the shiny craters.

With a soft, flexible, well worn piece of sandpaper, degloss the craters by hand. You can use a brass brush on small craters. Clean the brass brush if it's new with lacquer thinner, to get any oils off of it.

Shoot another coat of clear. It will fill all the craters 90%.

Drip clear into any stubborn craters with an eyedropper.

Now you can sand back to totally flat with 600 .

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