Sana'a
Quoted from nikpinball:What is the brand of the wood repair epoxy you are using, where is it found?
They have it at any store like Woodcraft, Ace, Floorcrafters, Lancasters.....
(Topic ID: 33446)
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Bobby Orr's Power Play
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Quoted from eh97ac:Enjoy the reading or commission the text stencils. Pinside member dr_nybble is in Ottawa and has a cameo.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club/page/2#post-2788538
Cameo is a ton of fun to use and does a great job, but totally agree with Vid it's not as fast. it's an enjoy taking your time over a glass of scotch kind of a process. I've had amazing luck with keylines, but less luck with text, for what it's worth.
Étalle
Wellington
Quoted from jimy_speedt:One more time, thanks a lot vid1900 for the extremely helpful documentation. I do not have all of the tools and materials to make a perfect job, but I am using lot of things.
Give it time - my collection of tools has slowly grown over the several months it's taken me to read and absorb all of this. Vid really should get a commission. 
Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix the "A" in my Theatre of Magic? It has been popped up since before I got it in late 1999, and it really is the only thing on my playfield that isn't in amazingly great shape. I know how to get it flush with the playfield, but I don't know how to fix the "A" and the blue/red/yellow parts around it.
I bought a decal set some years ago from Bay Area Amusements thinking that I would just put a new decal on, but the blue is considerably darker on the new decal than the ones on the playfield. I thought that maybe I would just swap all of the letter M, A, G, I, C, but as you can see, the "I" is missing it's "red" left side curve.
I would love to eventually tear down the whole playfield and get it clearcoated, but that actually terrifies me that even with a lot of notes, photos, and videos, I would have a hard time putting it back together. Plus that is a cost that I just can't afford to pay, unfortunately.
Any ideas or tips would be appreciated. I feel like I just need a different perspective on this to find what techniques would actually fix the problem. I am pretty good with Photoshop, so maybe that helps a bit. Could the solution be 1) remove the insert, 2) remove old "A" remnants, 3) scan is and edit a whole page of "A"s that are slightly different shades of blue and print them, 4) find the closest match to the other letters, 5) attach the new "A", 6) reinsert the insert (5 and 6 maybe swapped?, not sure about protecting the "A" in the future, but I am sure that it is in this thread.
Wrapping up my first restoration using Vid's guide, with my most humble and sincere thanks. This project would not have been nearly what it is without your guide!
I'm through with the big colors, now just need to clean up some black lines and do additional touch-ups. I could not be more pleased at this point, and would appreciate comment that will help me ID the areas that still need work. A couple of comments about the After photo - I left the original purple, which now looks pretty much brown, on the upper left hand side where it will be hidden by the rail. Also, I was not able to get the light even enough in my workshop/gameroom, so the lower left hand corner looks....weird. Light is bouncing off something which is highlighting surface imperfections. Or something. I swear on my mothers eyes it doesn't really look like that...
BEFORE
Before.JPG
AFTER
After.jpg
Quoted from nickbuol:I would love to eventually tear down the whole playfield and get it clearcoated, but that actually terrifies me that even with a lot of notes, photos, and videos, I would have a hard time putting it back together. Plus that is a cost that I just can't afford to pay, unfortunately.
You can always wait until you have the means to clearcoat the whole playfield.
The game won't be any less fun with a worn "A"
Quoted from nickbuol:I feel like I just need a different perspective on this to find what techniques would actually fix the problem. I am pretty good with Photoshop
Photoshop is your answer.
Scan those crummy decals @300dpi.
Print a page of waterslide "A" decals with a range of blues.
Once you find the blue match, stick it to the insert.
Cut a circle of Mylar and protect the decal.
Enjoy your game.
Quoted from bobnatlanta:I could not be more pleased at this point, and would appreciate comment that will help me ID the areas that still need work.
Looks good.
Take some Napthatha and give the playfield a wipe outside in the sunlight.
Look for anything out of place, chips or whatever.
I got frustrated trying to sand the dirt out of a shooter lane, so I tried using a wire brush attachment on my high speed rotary tool. I didn't want to remove too much material so I used the softest one I had which I think was made of brass??? and I set it to med/low RPM's. Anyway, it seemed to work great on almost all of the dirt (there were 2 really tough spots that are still dirty) while not removing as much material as sanding.
Is it possible that the wire was getting into the small cracks and removing the dirt without removing a bunch of wood, or am I dreaming and it was removing more wood than I think it was? Has anyone tried this before? I want to try it again, but its going to be a couple of weeks before I get to my next playfield project.
Quoted from Krankypants:Is it possible that the wire was getting into the small cracks and removing the dirt without removing a bunch of wood, or am I dreaming and it was removing more wood than I think it was? Has anyone tried this before? I want to try it again, but its going to be a couple of weeks before I get to my next playfield project.
Every piece of wood is different, and reacts differently to sanding, even when cut from the same tree.
If you find you are removing too much wood, stop right that moment and get out the paint and or wood epoxy.
Do NOT keep sanding away wood like this:
Québec, QC
Quoted from vid1900:Every piece of wood is different, and reacts differently to sanding, even when cut from the same tree.
If you find you are removing too much wood, stop right that moment and get out the paint and or wood epoxy.
Do NOT keep sanding away wood like this:
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/shooter-lane-repair.htm
"another tricky technique, but easy to do, in order to make those ball shooter lanes look NEW!!!!!!!"
Quoted from vid1900:Every piece of wood is different, and reacts differently to sanding, even when cut from the same tree.
If you find you are removing too much wood, stop right that moment and get out the paint and or wood epoxy.
Do NOT keep sanding away wood like this:
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/shooter-lane-repair.htm
Ya know.. I saw that years ago it seems. It never occurred to me - WHY would you sand away that much of the wood. Seems it would function differently, but it looks really different.
I remember Treasure Cove was the top of the heap for pin restoration a decade ago. How times change.
Quoted from vid1900:Do NOT keep sanding away wood like this:
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/shooter-lane-repair.htm
WTF Vid!?!?! - he DOES say not to use a machine polisher or you can damage the lacquer! 
So I'm now ready to start masking and frisketing. My question is in regards to the keyline between solid colors. Should I mask to the edge of the first solid color, say yellow, and paint the yellow then mask to the edge of the second solid color, say blue, and paint the blue and finally mask to the edge of the yellow and to the edge of the blue leaving only the old keyline and paint the black?
Or should I simply mask to the center of the keyline and paint the yellow, covering half the old keyline, then mask the yellow and paint the blue thereby covering the second half of the keyline. Then finally mask on either side of where the blue and yellow meet and paint the black keyline?
The former method seems to me like it would require quite a bit of precision when masking or cutting as your cut would have to be right on the color's edge. The second method does nor require that precision as any imprecisions would be covered by the new keyline. However it may prove difficult to mask a constant width keyline as both your cut lines would have to be perfectly parallel when frisketing for it.
How is that normally done? What's the best method? To me the second one seems like the way to go.
I usually paint the darker colors like blue first, lighter ones like yellow last.
Mask up to the edge of the insert and then make a brand new keyline with a decal.
If you leave any of the old keyline, it might force you to place the new decal slightly offset to match the poor "kiss" of the old one. With a completely new keyline, you can center it exactly.
Here is an interesting kelining detail between the red and the teal:
You'll notice there is no black keyline. Rather, there is a darker shade of red keyline. It looks like a transparent red was used and was made to overlap the teal color.
Two approaches to recreating this.
Base coat with white. Paint the teal then use a transparent red and paint the red while overlapping the teal.
Or simply paint the red and the teal with regular opaque colors and then mix a darker shade of opaque red and apply it as a regular keyline.
I've also seen a case where that detail was dropped entirely and replaced with a black keyline.
Suggestions on the right way to proceed here?
Quoted from vid1900:Mask up to the edge of the insert and then make a brand new keyline with a decal.
That's how I'll do the keyline around the insert. Thanks.
But I'm still unsure on how to approach the straight keyline between the blue and the yellow. How would you tackle that in terms of masking?
Quoted from vid1900:I'd repaint the teal and then make the red kiss with no overlap into the teal field.
It will look cleaner, and will be closer to what the artist intended.
Vid, have a look at the attached pic.
This overlap is generalized at every location where red and teal kiss. No exception.
If you also look at places were other graphics are superimposed on the red/teal kiss, or where other colors borderthe red, there doesn't seem to be any overlap there while there is still a red/teal overlap.
Looking at some other see saw PFs, I see the same overlap. I'm thinking this is likely not an registration error.
Assuming one would want to keep it that way any suggestions on how to approach this?
Not a registration error per say, but the guys cutting the Rubylith need to make sure that the colors overlap enough that the bare white will not show through in a production enviroment.
White is the first color screened, black is the last.
Way back in the chip filling section, how do you spread filler and squeegee it off and not mess up the surrounding artwork. I plan to put a decal over the missing artwork but it needs to be level. This is the only damaged area so I am not planning to clear it. I will be putting Mylar over the repair since the rest of the Playfield has original Mylar.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Way back in the chip filling section, how do you spread filler and squeegee it off and not mess up the surrounding artwork.
You can only use body filler when you are repainting the entire surrounding area.
For your job, drip clear into the chip with eyedropper and carefully sand flush.
Quick question on the laser waterslide decals. I know that decalpaper.com is referenced a lot here. What about texascraft.com? I see them referenced elsewhere. The texascraft people sell "Papilio" (http://www.texascraft.com/hps/SAMPLE-Laser-Clear-Waterslide-Sheets-8.5-in.-x-11-in.-1-Sheet.html) and it is more expensive per sheet, but claims to work with newer, higher temp laser printers. My fear is that I will get things all ready to go, then head to FedEx Office and they will melt the decal sheet because they just finished printing some 1000 copy job or something.
If you say just to stick with tried and true stuff from decalpaper.com, then I will. I just wondered since I started looking into sources for this stuff last night.
Can I get some steps on applying Createx?
I know that thin coats are recommended.
I apply a thin coat, how long do I wait until the next thin coat? Is it a timing thing, visual thing, or what?
Supposing I have applied enough thin coats to cover opaquely (about how many should that be?), do I remove the frisket/mask before heat setting or after?
If I am using a hair dryer, about how long do I need to apply heat to set it? Is there a visual indicator that it is set or . . . ?
How far away to hold the dryer while applying heat?
Thanks!
I am going to ask a dumb question but bear with me. If I want to drip liquid clear into a depression (see 4 posts up) is liquid clear still unsafe indoors to use? I would not be spraying, just using an eye dropper.
Quoted from nickbuol:What about texascraft.com? I see them referenced elsewhere. The texascraft people sell "Papilio"
I'm sure vid will jump in with his opinion, but I have always been very happy with the Papilio product. I always start with a cold laser printer so I can't really comment on if it works better with high heat laser printers. I have also found them very responsive (and honest) when I have a question so you might want to shoot them a note.
Just show up at Fed-Ex when their doors open.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I am going to ask a dumb question but bear with me. If I want to drip liquid clear into a depression (see 4 posts up) is liquid clear still unsafe indoors to use? I would not be spraying, just using an eye dropper.
Yes - unsafe at any speed indoors.
That said, and although I don't recommend it - I have found I can fill in my garage with a fan blowing across the playfield and out an open window at the end of my workbench.
Quoted from nickbuol:but claims to work with newer, higher temp laser printers. My fear is that I will get things all ready to go, then head to FedEx Office and they will melt the decal sheet because they just finished printing some 1000 copy job or something.
No matter what the decal is made of, it will stick to the fuser if it's hot.
You need to be the first customer in the door. You don't want a printer that's been on for more than a hour.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I am going to ask a dumb question but bear with me. If I want to drip liquid clear into a depression (see 4 posts up) is liquid clear still unsafe indoors to use? I would not be spraying, just using an eye dropper.
I would not use it in my house or basement, but the garage is probably OK. Just remember to wear your iso rated respirator, gloves and goggles.
Quoted from dr_nybble:Can I get some steps on applying Createx?
I know that thin coats are recommended.
I apply a thin coat, how long do I wait until the next thin coat? Is it a timing thing, visual thing, or what?
Generally one coat covers just fine.
If it really needed a second coat for some light color, give it 15 minutes. If you make it too thick, it will take weeks to dry.
Quoted from dr_nybble:f I am using a hair dryer, about how long do I need to apply heat to set it? Is there a visual indicator that it is set or . . . ?
How far away to hold the dryer while applying heat?
Maybe 1 minute of heat with the hair dryer 4" away. Use common sense, some dryers are much hotter than others.
I was just looking at an example of a BK earlier in this thread with ball swirl. I have a Taxi with crazy heavy ball swirl. I would like to clean this off with ME and alcohol. But I don't have the time, supplies, or inclination to do a complete playfield strip and clearcoat. If you remove ball swirl, can you then wax it to protect it, rather than clearcoat?
No the wax will not protect the paint the way clearcoat can.
So many people have worn through their paint thinking they have **helped** their playfield by removing the top coat.
Just leave the ball swirl until you are ready to do a major restoration.
Quoted from vid1900:No the wax will not protect the paint the way clearcoat can.
So many people have worn through their paint thinking they have **helped** their playfield by removing the top coat.
Just leave the ball swirl until you are ready to do a major restoration.
Ok, well, that will make my job quicker for the time being then, thanks.
Quoted from Fred736:You'll notice there is no black keyline. Rather, there is a darker shade of red keyline. It looks like a transparent red was used and was made to overlap the teal color.
There is no key-line between the red an teal, no transparent red was used, the red simply is overlapping the teal and the teal shows through. Not quality factory workmanship is it ?
Quoted from vid1900:I usually paint the darker colors like blue first, lighter ones like yellow last.
Wait..... Why wouldn't you paint the lighter colors first so any over spray can be covered by the darker colors.
Hi, sorry if the subject was already covered in this huge thread, not sure to find back what I need.
I would like to know how to get clean insert without removing them from the PF, I did not remove all mechanical parts under it. the damaged part on the outside is really solid, it is not remaining glue that I can remove easily.
thanks
Quoted from jimy_speedt:I would like to know how to get clean insert without removing them from the PF
If you want to clean off all the art from an insert, use a freshly sharpened chisel and simply scrape off the clear and the art.
Keep the chisel at a 90 degree angle to the playfield, NOT at a low angle like you would normally use a chisel.
Quoted from vid1900:If you want to clean off all the art from an insert, use a freshly sharpened chisel and simply scrape off the clear and the art.
Keep the chisel at a 90 degree angle to the playfield, NOT at a low angle like you would normally use a chisel.
This man is full of magic !!!
I guess I have to varnish the insert to make it clear before I stick the decal. Thanks for the tip.
I absolutely agree with the initial statement of Williams clearcoats.
Some coats are REALLY thin on inserts.
This is something Stern has learned some lessons about since 2000.
My IJ:TBA that I have owned since 1998 has the two inserts (Willy and Marion) that has nearly invisible bubble lifting unless you look flat at the playfield. The game has always been waxed. I have to inject clear coat and cure it to prevent damage before I will be able to play it after it sat in a crate for 10 years. After this AND edge sealing, I may still have to use mylar half moon protectors. Basically, it behooves a collector to pay attention before something disasterous happens on a playfield and chipping results or even worse.
It is not the first time, I have seen this either.
Before going further: I used a chisel to remove the top of the insert.
How do I finish the edges, which are still not clean ? wet sanding ?
Sometimes I reached the wood with the chisel. When the insert is surrounded by a black circle on the wood I can use the circle Template and a black pen. When the colour is green (or partially), I cannot use a pen as it does not exist with the right colour. how can I do to have a regular touch up ?
Thank you
Quoted from jimy_speedt:This man is full of magic !!!...
Careful Vid, he's about to put you in a secret ball lock.
Quoted from jimy_speedt:How do I finish the edges, which are still not clean ? wet sanding ?
I'd drip 2PAC into that valley that surrounds each insert.
Quoted from jimy_speedt:When the insert is surrounded by a black circle on the wood I can use the circle Template and a black pen.
Don't use a "Sharpie" pen, or the ink will bleed into the clearcoat at some point.
You can print the Keylines on waterslide decals with a color laser printer, or mask it off and use acrylic paint.
Quoted from jimy_speedt:you ll laugh at me, but I do not know what 2PAC is. the only Tupac or 2pac I get on the internet is a black singer.
Quoted from jimy_speedt:thank you, I will try to find that over here
Not your fault. Only available in some foreign countries.
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