(Topic ID: 33446)
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Sana'a
Melbourne, ON
So I am about create a lot of water slide decals for my next project.
I did some tests on my company's new color laser printer on normal paper and compared them to the same image done on my cheap injekt but with some glossy paper I had.
I think there is a big different between them. It's like the injekt is much more "solid"? Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong on the laser printer?
Quoted from tezting:It's like the injekt is much more "solid"?
Inkjet fades fast, so you don't want to seal that below a clearcoat.
Turn up the toner "darkness" or "density" all the way up for maximum saturation. (this might be a physical knob inside of the printer).
Quoted from Hammerhead:What can you do about crazing on inserts? My STTNG has it pretty bad, with probably 80% of the inserts showing some kind of crazing. If you were to clear over it would they disappear, or would it only make thing worse? It's very noticeable and I can't just leave it as is.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Maybe I'm using the incorrect term; on my STTNG the "crazing" goes right through the text.
If you are restoring the playfield, then you can get your big lighted magnifier out and touch up all the lettering with opaque black paint.
Light the insert from below as you work, so you don't miss any spots.
Atlanta, GA
I am still having moisture problems with my airbrush setup. After two weeks of inactivity, damp rid, and using gravity to my advantage, I still only get a few minutes of brushing before it starts to spew moisture. And if harbor freight makes a filter that attaches to this unit, I cannot find it. Any other tips greatly appreciated!
These are the components I'm using:
http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-6-hp-40-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-93657.html
Quoted from vid1900:If you are restoring the playfield, then you can get your big lighted magnifier out and touch up all the lettering with opaque black paint.
Light the insert from below as you work, so you don't miss any spots.image_23220.jpg
Would it not be simpler to replace the insert decals instead? After a few cups of coffee my hands aren't near steady enough for that fine touch up work. 
Quoted from bobnatlanta:I am still having moisture problems with my airbrush setup. After two weeks of inactivity, damp rid, and using gravity to my advantage, I still only get a few minutes of brushing before it starts to spew moisture.
See that little glass jar on the compressor that connects to the air line?
It it filled with water?
Is it right side up?
The drain valve on the bottom of the jar needs to be emptied whenever it is more than probably 1/2 full of water.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Would it not be simpler to replace the insert decals instead? After a few cups of coffee my hands aren't near steady enough for that fine touch up work.
Replacement decals are usually not as opaque as the original paint.
You could print new decals and place them over the old lettering (carefully lining them up with a light shining from below).
So the air must be too warm coming out of the compressor to condense in the glass (or the moisture trap is damaged).
Try extending the metal nipple 4- 12 inches between the compressor and the filter and see if that cools it enough.
If not, get a bigger/better filter
From near despair back to wow. Just...wow. I took the compressor back to harbor freight and traded it out for another of the same model. Just finished setting it up and laid down the rest of the yellow in about 10 minutes. Couldn't be more pleased with the result. There are few joys in life like a tool that does it's job properly.
yellow.JPG
Quoted from tezting:Hi Vid,
Do you have any experience with Vallejo paint? It is easy to buy here and I am having a hard time mixing correctly with the Createx I got. That said I would not use anything that is not good!
Vallejo is used and formulated specifically for scale modeling. It is water based and used on plastics. I personally would not attempt to use it on a PF.
Quoted from sohchx:Vallejo is used and formulated specifically for scale modeling. It is water based and used on plastics. I personally would not attempt to use it on a PF.
I hope you are not right. I have just spend a lot of money on paint (it is not cheap paint!) Don't you think it depends on the type? I bought this line:
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-air/family/17
It says "extreme resistence and durability"
Where I bought it, it said that it also was good for metal and wood surfaces?
Vid, what would you suggest for inserts that have heat warping above the playfield (think opposite of cupping) I have a data east pin and can't find replacement large inserts.
Also, does anyone on here have a playfield scan of Phantom of the Opera?
Quoted from jboner1058:Vid, what would you suggest for inserts that have heat warping above the playfield (think opposite of cupping) I have a data east pin and can't find replacement large inserts.
If it can be safely removed, you could flatten it with a heatgun.
I have a couple of wire ball guides on a Space Invaders that have worn/elongated the tops of the holes they fit into, so they're a little loose. Wouldn't be so bad but they're right next to the flippers so they take a pounding and it's only gonna get worse. What's the best way to fix this? Fill hole with wood putty & drill? Bamboo skewer with wood glue, then drill? Is there some way where the wireform doesn't have to be removed? I won't be clearcoating this pf so something with minimal eye-catching potential is preferred.
Quoted from jibmums:I have a couple of wire ball guides on a Space Invaders that have worn/elongated the tops of the holes they fit into, so they're a little loose. Wouldn't be so bad but they're right next to the flippers so they take a pounding and it's only gonna get worse. What's the best way to fix this? Fill hole with wood putty & drill? Bamboo skewer with wood glue, then drill? Is there some way where the wireform doesn't have to be removed? I won't be clearcoating this pf so something with minimal eye-catching potential is preferred.
Get some of the 2 part epoxy that comes in the dual syringe, mix it up and let it run down the hole.
Use the the 5 minute stuff so you don't have to hold it forever.
Put a piece of tape over the underside of the playfield, so it does not run out the bottom - the stuff is really runny.
Quoted from vid1900:Get some of the 2 part epoxy that comes in the dual syringe, mix it up and let it run down the hole.
Use the the 5 minute stuff so you don't have to hold it forever.
Put a piece of tape over the underside of the playfield, so it does not run out the bottom - the stuff is really runny.
Thanks Vid. The hole's not drilled through so that's not a problem. Do I do this with the wire guide out, then drill a new hole once it's hardened, or reinsert the guide as the epoxy starts to congeal, and wipe up the excess? or.....something else?
Quoted from vid1900:You could just put a piece of Mylar over the area
Here is the damaged part, not really a screw hole but there is a hole on top of the PF.
Should I go HD scan of good PF and print a decal with some Clear Water Slide film or try paint/airbrush route?
I am hoping I can just remove the Mylar, fix it with either of above scenario then put new Mylar on top so I don't have to clear coat the whole thing?
I thought I'd share a success story - this is the second playfield I've refinished using info from Vid's thread. I can't say it's perfect, but it's better than my first attempt and I'm pleased with the results. I can't wait to get her up and running. Thanks Vid!
Before:
Quoted from TopMoose:I thought I'd share a success story - this is the second playfield I've refinished using info from Vid's thread. I can't say it's perfect, but it's better than my first attempt and I'm pleased with the results. I can't wait to get her up and running. Thanks Vid!
That is the nicest looking green penis I've ever seen.
Congrats on your great work!
Quoted from vid1900:That is the nicest looking green penis I've ever seen.
Quoted from hisokajp:Here is the damaged part, not really a screw hole but there is a hole on top of the PF.
Should I go HD scan of good PF and print a decal with some Clear Water Slide film or try paint/airbrush route?
I am hoping I can just remove the Mylar, fix it with either of above scenario then put new Mylar on top so I don't have to clear coat the whole thing?
Since you are not going to clear the playfield, you can just do a "good enough" spot touchup with a brush and acrylic paint and then cover with new Mylar.
One day when you want to do a high end restore, you can remove the Mylar and fix it permanently.
Quoted from tezting:I hope you are not right. I have just spend a lot of money on paint (it is not cheap paint!) Don't you think it depends on the type? I bought this line:
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-air/family/17
It says "extreme resistence and durability"
Where I bought it, it said that it also was good for metal and wood surfaces?
I have been building scale models for 30 years and have been using Vallejo since it's inception so I have thorough experience with it. I agree, it is not cheap, but if you have a Hobby Lobby store near you, you can get it for 40% off. The type that you choose from the line may play a big factor on how it performs but I am not 100% as I have never attempted to use it on a PF. I'd say wing it and try a test spot either in a hidden location on the PF or on a scrap of wood. Use a spot of each Vallejo type and put the clear that you intend to use over the top of each and see what it does. In the end it's all acrylic and Vallejo is good stuff, not junk.
Quoted from sohchx:I have been building scale models for 30 years and have been using Vallejo since it's inception so I have thorough experience with it. I agree, it is not cheap, but if you have a Hobby Lobby store near you, you can get it for 40% off. The type that you choose from the line may play a big factor on how it performs but I am not 100% as I have never attempted to use it on a PF. I'd say wing it and try a test spot either in a hidden location on the PF or on a scrap of wood. Use a spot of each Vallejo type and put the clear that you intend to use over the top of each and see what it does. In the end it's all acrylic and Vallejo is good stuff, not junk.
Thank you for sharing. I will test and share the end result.
Quoted from vid1900:Since you are not going to clear the playfield, you can just do a "good enough" spot touchup with a brush and acrylic paint and then cover with new Mylar.
One day when you want to do a high end restore, you can remove the Mylar and fix it permanently.
Yes, I wish I had the space and installation to do PF clearcoat... maybe some day! 
Quoted from hisokajp:Yes, I wish I had the space and installation to do PF clearcoat... maybe some day!
This is the little paint booth i built in my garage. Footprint is 6' x 8'.
The exhaust duct stretches out about 10' beyond the garage door into the driveway.
I run my air thru this condensing coil to remove all moisture. The coil is immersed in the blue drum full of cold water.
There is a drain valve that you can't see at the bottom of the coil.
Now if I could just have the skill to shoot a nice even coat of clear....
Quoted from Fred736:This is the little paint booth i built in my garage. Footprint is 6' x 8'.
IMG_20151017_121001.jpg
IMG_20151017_121028.jpg
The exhaust duct stretches out about 10' beyond the garage door into the driveway.
I run my air thru this condensing coil to remove all moisture. The coil is immersed in the blue drum full of cold water.
IMG_20151011_162003.jpg
There is a drain valve that you can't see at the bottom of the coil.
Now if I could just have the skill to shoot a nice even coat of clear....
And after you're done you have a still.
Hi Vid,
Are Createx wicked colors safe to use? In the description is says that there is a little solvent added for "better flow".
Quoted from tezting:Hi Vid,
Are Createx wicked colors safe to use? In the description is says that there is a little solvent added for "better flow".
You can use them.
That Elvira with the glitter green playfield that I always see at the shows (sorry buddy, I forgot your name), used the Wicked colors.
Quoted from tezting:Thank you for sharing. I will test and share the end result.
Excellent, curious to see the results
Quoted from hisokajp:Yes, I wish I had the space and installation to do PF clearcoat... maybe some day!
I would like to patch clear between the acrylic paint repair and the new patch of Mylar, I was recommended to use a high gloss ultra-smooth lacquer for special purpose (acrylic) but I couldn't quite find that in my HD this morning. Do you have a recommendation?
Quoted from PinballFever:Is there a way to safely remove the stained glass mylar from this 1964 Palooka playfield? (It's adhered)
Stained Glass mylar.jpg
It's probably "Contact Paper" for windows, so try heat and take it slow.
There is always a chance that the adhesive has reacted with the lacquer of the playfield.
Quoted from hisokajp:I would like to patch clear between the acrylic paint repair and the new patch of Mylar, I was recommended to use a high gloss ultra-smooth lacquer for special purpose (acrylic) but I couldn't quite find that in my HD this morning. Do you have a recommendation?
You probably need to go to an auto paint store if you want some good lacquer.
Even if you found it at HD, it would probably be crap.
(BTW, I'm not recommending anyone use lacquer rather than 2PAC.....do not email me asking questions about it)
MiamiRedSkin said:
Any advice on how to handle this on my newly acquired AFM? I have no artistic ability and have virtually no tools/parts. Should I just mylar over, find a local pinball/artist to do a touch-up, put a decal over it?
Quoted from vid1900:Just put a dot of Mylar over it and enjoy the game.
Hello Vid,
I'm like this post in that I have very little in the way of artistic skill, nor do I want my Big Game down for a repair any longer than it has to be. But it has big problems on the lower play field.
I've been looking around this post trying to find exactly what kind of adhesive Mylar I need to use to cover up this mess to limit further damage.
My plan was to wax it up and put some Mylar down to protect it. At least until I get a second game to play and can take Big Game off line for some renovation.
Can you post a link to the type of Mylar you would recommend? Or let me know if you have any other suggestion?
Thanks for all of your posts!
Jeff...
In researching laser printer water slide decals, I found something interesting. I found the material on Amazon, but looking at the reviews, a lot of folks complain about the laser printer being too hot and the material melting to the fuser or something. I'm not buying a color laser printer to print decals and I'm sure as hell not risking using my work printer, one of those giant copier looking laser printers. I know it's recommended to print right after the printer comes on in the morning as it's cooler, but I can't risk that.
Is there someone on here that prints laser water slide decals as a service or who is recommended? My idea is to print to transparency, etc..and test fit perfect, then have someone print the decals for me. I'll need some for Stern-Dracula and for Bally-KISS.
Quoted from vid1900:It's probably "Contact Paper" for windows, so try heat and take it slow.
Thanks Vid. Will try that.
Where is the best place to get replacement playfield screws? The heads on these are pretty messed up.
Quoted from TGIPinside:P8160660.jpg PA130861.jpg PA130863.jpg
Does that game really say ''For Each Lited Number''? I LOVE that. 
Quoted from vid1900:You probably need to go to an auto paint store if you want some good lacquer.
Even if you found it at HD, it would probably be crap.
(BTW, I'm not recommending anyone use lacquer rather than 2PAC.....do not email me asking questions about it)
ok thanks, I just thought Mylar directly on top of the touch up paint wouldn't be great without anything in between
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