143 key posts have been marked in this topic.
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Post #76 Source for needles - https://www.dispensinglink.com/needles.html Posted by rancegt (11 years ago)
Post #1272 Plastic primer found in Europe: Loctite 7239, 770. Posted by TheRingMaster (9 years ago)
Post #6 Removing mylar and the adhesive left behind. Don't clear over it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #7 Playfield damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #8 Insert damage assessment. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #15 Removing inserts, step one - cut around it so you don't remove artwork with the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #23 Removing inserts, step two - how to heat it, what to push it out with. Don't remove them if you're not replacing them. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #26 How a playfield is made and why your new inserts must be sanded flat before installation. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #34 How to sand your new inserts flat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #35 Cleaning old glue out of the insert holes. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #36 Removing old mastic with a burr tool on a rotary device such as a Dremel. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #37 Prep your insert for gluing by sanding it with 100 grit. Epoxy can be chipped off the insert without this step. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #38 Prime the insert with 3M Plastic Primer before gluing. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #40 Use two-part epoxy, apply it from the underside of the playfield to the wood. Don't apply it to the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #46 How to clamp an insert that won't stay down. C-clamp, plywood, and wax paper. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #50 Apply a little glue to the back lip of inserts you're NOT replacing to avoid surprises six months later. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #59 Repairing Insert Ghosting - cut a slit around the damage, inject clear underneath. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #60 Repairing Insert Ghosting - fill, clean, remove bubbles, cover. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #61 Repairing Insert Ghosting - clamp overnight. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #83 Why you should use Createx paint for playfield restoration and what NOT to use. NOTE: Pinsiders in 2015 reported that Createx paints look substantially darker dry. TEST FIRST! Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #84 Air brush information. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #85 Matching your new paint to your old playfield. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #86 Step-by-step color matching. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #89 Frisket is a roll of masking plastic. Use it to keep paint from going where you don't want it. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #90 Frisket - placing and cutting process. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #94 Frisket, masking, and boogers - a text and visual description. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #95 Gettin' Friskety! Work from light colors to dark colors except for white. Mask, paint, set paint with heat, move mask and repeat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #107 What to do with an area of the playfield that can't be cleaned up with the Magic Eraser. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #108 How to identify a font using myfonts.com Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #109 Preparing your scan for a new waterslide decal. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #110 Printing your new art - Water Slide film (thinnest), laser printer. Don't use ink jet, they fade quickly. Options for special colors. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #112 Masking and painting over your old lettering. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #113 Applying your decal - CLEARCOAT FIRST, then apply decal. Never apply decal directly to bare paint or the insert. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #117 Using Bondo to repair holes, chips, and gouges. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #130 Raising inserts that have sunk into the wood. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #142 Prying out a wireform. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #148 Why to repaint bright white areas. Put old bulbs in light sockets to keep paint out. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #149 Shooter lane, part one - Sanding Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #151 Shooter lane, part two - Check it, patch it, paint if necessary. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #164 What order Vid uses for repairs and why. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #171 Painting very fine lines, step one of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #172 Painting very fine lines, step two of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #173 Painting very fine lines, step three of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #174 Painting very fine lines, step four of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #202 Planking repair example, part one of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #203 Planking repair example, part two of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #204 Planking repair example, part three of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #205 Planking repair example, part four of four. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #212 Disadvantages of water based clearcoat. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #214 Equipment needed to spray automotive clear. Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)
Post #271 Leveling cupped inserts when not restoring the entire playfield. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #289 Applying insert decals, part one of nine. Recap of previous info. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #290 Applying insert decals, part two of nine. Supplies Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #291 Applying insert decals, part three of nine. Soak Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #292 Applying insert decals, part four of nine. Prevent curling by soaking large decals face down. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #293 Applying insert decals, part five of nine. Decal setting solution and don't touch the back. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #295 Applying insert decals, part six of nine. Rotisserie and illuminate from below. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #297 Applying insert decals, part seven of nine. Set the decal. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #299 Applying insert decals, part eight of nine. Remove bubbles and wrinkles. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #300 Applying insert decals, part nine of nine. Clearcoat Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #323 Reference link changed to https://classicplayfields.com/playfields/ Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #454 Woodwise Epoxy Wood Patch is good for wood repair. Comes in stick form. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #460 Can I hand brush on automotive clearcoat? NO. Rattlecans, renting or borrowing a compressor are much better solutions. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #517 Cabinets can be painted with semi-gloss latex exterior house paint. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #706 Tips for clearcoating a small area when not doing the entire playfield. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #721 Safety information regarding LEAD PAINT. Posted by vid1900 (10 years ago)
Post #770 These are not clearcoats. Polyurethane, water based poly, shellac, and laquer. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #776 2 part auto clear is the proper choice for clear coating. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #777 Vid uses PPG JC660 or it's plain labeled cousin "Omni 161". Where to get it, differences from other brands, comments on using your favorite 2PAC. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #785 Supplies you'll need to clearcoat a playfield. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #790 More safety equipment you'll need. Nitrile gloves, Tyvek bunny suit, goggles, plastic sheeting. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #808 More supplies - HVLP air gun, Teflon tape, compressed air connectors. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #809 Why do you need a rotary tool to clean out the slots and holes? Fisheye prevention. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #810 Fisheye eliminator products are not recommended. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #833 Cupped insert repair discussion begins. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #835 Cupped insert repair process, part one of two. Clamp, glue, sand. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #836 Cupped insert repair process, part two of two. Clean, mix, fill, remove bubbles, sand. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #853 Shooter lane repainting, part one of two. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #854 Shooter lane repainting, part two of two. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #860 Outgassing and insert blooming- what it is and why it happens. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #863 Outgassing and insert blooming - Prevention Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #864 Outgassing and insert blooming - Removing the old topcoat. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #865 Outgassing and insert blooming - Use a sharp chisel. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #869 Outgassing and insert blooming - Using an Xacto to prevent damaging the keyline when you don't have a template. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #912 Star Rollovers - why they're sometimes tight. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #913 Star Rollovers - Use a Protective Star Insert Plug to keep your new clearcoat out of the hole. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #917 Star Rollovers - Disassembly, part one of four. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #918 Star Rollovers - Disassembly, part two of four. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #919 Star Rollovers - Disassembly, part three of four. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #920 Star Rollovers - Disassembly, part four of four. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #923 Magic Eraser usage description begins. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #949 Flattening the playfield between coats. Sanding - why, where, and how. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #952 You have to de-gloss all depressions. If you don't, the next layer of clear may not adhere well enough and could crack when you tighten the posts. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #965 You don't always need to disassemble the back of the playfield. If your old playfield has raw wood on the back side you need to seal it. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #966 Protect electrical connectors. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #967 Protect mechs on the underside from overspray. Slotted heads are more time consuming to work with than phillips, consider changing everything to phillips as a practical matter. Cover slots with tape, seal large holes. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #968 Ziptie the wiring harness in secure locations, leaving room for the rotisserie. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #977 Sanding and prepping for clearcoat. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #978 Explaining the surface contours after the first coat of clear. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #979 Why you need to sand between layers of clear. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #980 Don't hand sand like this. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #981 Sand with a large, flat surface. A sanding pad used for drywall works good for beginners. Wear your respirator and don't track the dust through your house. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #995 Fix wood raised from screw posts using a doming punch. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1027 Clearcoat advantages vs. overlay- colors pop, similar ball traction to original finish, dust can't get under the clearcoat. Overlay advantage is simplicity. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1077 Adhesive mylar - deal with it if peeling or affecting ball travel. Use it appropriately. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1081 Non-adhesive mylar - remove it and replace with adhesive mylar. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1085 Colored mylar needed? Lighting gels are an option. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1262 Final surface sanding and buffing. Wet sandpaper, wet playfield. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1305 Sanding and buffing to a mirror gloss: the discussion begins using an F-14 example. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1306 Sanding and buffing: powered sander (that won't electrocute you), wet/dry paper, wear your respirator. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1307 Sanding and buffing: wipe up and dispose of the slurry as you work. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1308 Sanding and buffing: let the sander do the work. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1309 Sanding and buffing: with the finer grits of sandpaper it's important to wipe the slurry from your paper too. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1313 Sanding and buffing: 2000 grit can be your jumping off point to buffing or you can do a final sanding with 2500 grit. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1314 Sanding and buffing: Use a buffing machine. Separate pad for each grade of compound. Never hold the buffer in one place or let it get the playfield warm. Wipe all slots and holes when done. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1315 Sanding and buffing: Swirl Remover step. If it doesn't bring up the gloss try letting the playfield cure for another week in a warm place. This is the final polish for most EM games. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1316 Sanding and buffing: Machine Glaze is the final step. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1404 Discussion begins on what to look for when evaluating your newly clearcoated playfield. part one of five Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1405 What to look for when evaluating your newly clearcoated playfield. part two of five Planking - it means more sanding is needed. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1406 What to look for when evaluating your newly clearcoated playfield. part three of five Insert wear Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1407 What to look for when evaluating your newly clearcoated playfield. part four of five Shooter lane Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1408 Discussion ends on evaluating your newly clearcoated playfield. part five of five If you're paying for expert work don't accept amateur results. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1418 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part one of seven. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1419 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part two of seven. Using Photoshop and a good scan. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1420 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part three of seven. Paint before placing your decal. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1421 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part four of seven. Photo after decal applied. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1422 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part five of seven. If you have no good scan, start with the Gradient tool in Photoshop. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1423 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part six of seven. Continuation of Gradient method. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1424 Techniques for replicating halftone dots, part seven of seven. Print whole sheets of halftone decals and just manually cut and match. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1436 How to tell if the scratches you're seeing are from the previous grit of sandpaper or the current grit. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1502 Advice on preventing and dealing with bubbles in your clearcoat. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #1974 Best way to strip down a complex playfield and be able to put it back together. Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)
Post #2249 Preventing the clearcoat from cracking when repopulating playfields, part one of five. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2250 Preventing the clearcoat from cracking when repopulating playfields, part two of five: Why it cracks Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2251 Preventing the clearcoat from cracking when repopulating playfields, part three of five: Use a NEW brad point drill bit. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2252 Preventing the clearcoat from cracking when repopulating playfields, part four of five: Illustration of a clearcoat-free hole entrance. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2254 Preventing the clearcoat from cracking when repopulating playfields, part five of five: Why you don't drill out every dimple. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2356 How to clean a clearcoated playfield. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2922 Specking and shading document describing the process using a touch-up spray gun. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #2994 Airbrushing tips - Createx document. Posted by vid1900 (8 years ago)
Post #3130 Shank screw ( fin or twist ) removal. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)
Post #3205 Don't use poly to clearcoat a playfield. It turns yellow. Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)
Post #3709 Restoration HowTo for repairing worn guide holes Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)
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