Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

0

#8301 1 year ago

MCP

packie1

Pinside+ Addict

Kewanee, IL

12y 62,800 638 26

Quoted from pinballinreno:
What I really like about that product is that you can easily repair chips and defects WAY after the fact.
It bonds very well to the cured product, unlike P2K.
Its nearly ideal for pinball and dries ROCK hard just like P2K. It also "dies" back like P2K.
You can also thin it out to "wick" it into cracks or loose chips.
It takes a bit longer to dry, but if your not in too much of a hurry, it works VERY well.
They also claim that it bonds to old P2K. I havent tried it yet, but it looks VER/Y promising for repairs.

So could I use it to fill missing clear holes with a pipette and it will self level to a point?
Mike

0

#8302 1 year ago

BSM

sethbenjamin

ReplayResto

Greenfield, MA

12y 84,050 1,448 8

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Brush this stuff on thick enough to cover brush strokes, it will cover almost anything and is not as finicky as P2K, no respitator or spray booth needed, just brush it on:

Holy crap, that’s a potential game-changer.

I’ve always been anxious about spraying clear in winter. I have a booth but don’t have heated makeup air, so the temp dips while the booth is running.

If this looks just as good as 2PAC *and* is less finicky, I could see switching over once and for all, at least for playfield work.

0

#8303 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

Quoted from packie1:
So could I use it to fill missing clear holes with a pipette and it will self level to a point?
Mike

Yes, maybe thin it a little with Xylene to get it to wick underneath.

0

1

#8304 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

Quoted from sethbenjamin:
Holy crap, that’s a potential game-changer.
I’ve always been anxious about spraying clear in winter. I have a booth but don’t have heated makeup air, so the temp dips while the booth is running.
If this looks just as good as 2PAC *and* is less finicky, I could see switching over once and for all, at least for playfield work.

Its a complete "game changer".

Chip repairs are VERY feasable now.

Read the info on their website. It looks really good for a lot of things.

You can even spray it if you want, but then you need booth, mask, positive airflow etc.

It takes a few days to dry is its only real downside.

0

#8305 1 year ago

???

I thought I red somewhere that I must clearcoat the back too to keep the moisture out. If I can do 1-2 coats of wood lacquer that is even better and easier for me since I am more familiar with those instead of 2PAC

0

#8306 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

Quoted from DrChrys:
I thought I red somewhere that I must clearcoat the back too to keep the moisture out. If I can do 1-2 coats of wood lacquer that is even better and easier for me since I am more familiar with those instead of 2PAC

Dont use 2pac on the back side.

Light coats of acrylic lacquer is acceptable but not necessary.

Dont paint the underside of the inserts.

Have you noticed that on furniture wooden tables, they dont paint the bottom?

Wood has to breathe or it warps and cracks and blisters the finish.

Just like on doors, if you paint all the sides and edges the painters leave the top and bottom edges bare, to breathe.
The water in the paint has to get out somehow.

This is the same with solvents in modern coatings.

If you seal the top and bottom you have to leave the front and back edges bare to breathe.

0

#8307 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Sometimes if you clearcoat the top with a unfinished bottom, the playfield warps because moisture expands the backside, yet non enters the topside.

Same with a butcherblock countertop. Even though the counter is a massive 2" thick, if you only oil the topside, it warps and bows upwards.

So finishing the playfield back with some gray latex paint is usually what the factory does

0

#8308 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Sometimes if you clearcoat the top with a unfinished bottom, the playfield warps because moisture expands the backside, yet non enters the topside.
Same with a butcherblock countertop. Even though the counter is a massive 2" thick, if you only oil the topside, it warps and bows upwards.
So finishing the playfield back with some gray latex paint is usually what the factory does

Ive see that.

So a couple light coats of acrylic lacquer on the bottom like Ron Kruzman does.

0

#8309 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Ive see that.
So a couple light coats of acrylic lacquer on the bottom like Ron Kruzman does.

Exactly.

It does not need anything extra, if the factory already has already applied a back coating on it.

But on really old games than have naked backsides, it's a good practice to seal it with matte clear (just the water based stuff is fine) on the back - if you are going to clearcoat the top.

0

#8310 1 year ago

GTX

gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,220 70

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Have you noticed that on furniture wooden tables, they dont paint the bottom?

It costs extra to paint or seal the bottom with no benefit to the builder so not a good analogy.

I knew a guy who would build chairs on weekends and asked him once something along those lines, his answer was "nobody looks there why would I waste product?"

0

#8311 1 year ago

???

Flipper_McGavin

Pinside member

Sacramento, CA

5y 47,800 546

Do you guys have decent luck removing large pieces of mylar from System 11 playfields without much paint lifting? Or, is there any way to tell beforehand if a lot of paint will likely lift up with the mylar? It's factory mylar that probably covers half the playfield. I use an upside-down compressed air can to remove mylar.

0

3

#8312 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:
Do you guys have decent luck removing large pieces of mylar from System 11 playfields without much paint lifting? Or, is there any way to tell beforehand if a lot of paint will likely lift up with the mylar? It's factory mylar that probably covers half the playfield. I use an upside-down compressed air can to remove mylar.

Sys11 were the most crappy playfields Williams ever made, so there will likely be some lifting, especially if it ever was stored in a garage

You might have better luck with a hair dryer, .

=====> But DO NOT remove the mylar unless you are clearcoating the playfield. <=====

Better to leave it alone, protected; than damaging it (and then leaving it unprotected)

0

#8313 1 year ago

ZAP

zahner

Pin-a-Go-Go

Fair Oaks, CA

10y 81,800 1,098 6 16

I have a question re an ongoing restoration of Flash Gordon and the interior walls adjacent to the playfield. The red paint on the interior cabinet walls wears off quickly and there isn’t really enough room to get my set blade protectors in there. Very tight.
Is there a paint or suggested process that would abate or minimize the rather substantial wear I’m currently experiencing?

0

#8314 1 year ago

RNA

LynnInDenver

Pinside member

Denver, CO

8y 38,300 373 1

Quoted from zahner:
I have a question re an ongoing restoration of Flash Gordon and the interior walls adjacent to the playfield. The red paint on the interior cabinet walls wears off quickly and there isn’t really enough room to get my set blade protectors in there. Very tight.
Is there a paint or suggested process that would abate or minimize the rather substantial wear I’m currently experiencing?

Adhesive vinyl might work well... the same sort of stuff you'd feed into a home vinyl cutter for crafting. They sell it in rolls that would give the required length, and in a variety of colors and finishes.

0

#8315 1 year ago

ZAP

zahner

Pin-a-Go-Go

Fair Oaks, CA

10y 81,800 1,098 6 16

Quoted from LynnInDenver:
Adhesive vinyl might work well... the same sort of stuff you'd feed into a home vinyl cutter for crafting. They sell it in rolls that would give the required length, and in a variety of colors and finishes.

Thanks. Looking into that. Excellent idea.

0

#8316 1 year ago

DAW

BrokenChair

Pinside member

1y 52,300 1,253 7

Hi all!

Need some help here did something dumb and damaged my playfield where the side posts screw in near outlane ;

I was removing stock posts and gently pushed it out from behind cause it was getting hung up or stuck ;

Well bad idea it totally ripped out that hole and ruined clear coat totally; I’m shocked at how bad the damage is .

When I put a fat genie post over it you can barely see a small crack however it’s totally ruined ;

I’m bummed out but I learned my lesson hard on this one what’s my options here ?

Just leave it be with the fat genie post covering it ?

How would I even repair this it’s totally ripped up;

Lesson learned

0

#8317 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

Quoted from BrokenChair:
Hi all!
Need some help here did something dumb and damaged my playfield where the side posts screw in near outlane ;
I was removing stock posts and gently pushed it out from behind cause it was getting hung up or stuck ;
Well bad idea it totally ripped out that hole and ruined clear coat totally; I’m shocked at how bad the damage is .
When I put a fat genie post over it you can barely see a small crack however it’s totally ruined ;
I’m bummed out but I learned my lesson hard on this one what’s my options here ?
Just leave it be with the fat genie post covering it ?
How would I even repair this it’s totally ripped up;
Lesson learned

Use the diamond "brush on" clear, its perfect for this.

Its self leveling and sticks to the existing clear coat really well.

Use a "cut down" foam brush, tape off the area etc.

Drill the hole thru to the bottom, add a t-nut, and install the "same sized", machine threaded posts either 6-32 posts work with a smaller hole, 8-32 posts if its a bigger hole.

All fixed with no difficult work at all.

0

#8318 1 year ago

DAW

BrokenChair

Pinside member

1y 52,300 1,253 7

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Use the diamond "brush on" clear, its perfect for this.
Its self leveling and sticks to the existing clear coat really well.
Use a "cut down" foam brush, tape off the area etc.
Drill the hole thru to the bottom, add a t-nut, and install the "same sized", machine threaded posts either 6-32 posts work with a smaller hole, 8-32 posts if its a bigger hole.
All fixed with no difficult work at all.

Thank you so much for the quick reply I am going to show this to my tech he comes in 2 weeks ….

This is beyond my expertise but thank you my tech should be able to fix it I’m praying to god it’s not that big a deal

0

#8319 1 year ago

???

Playdium

Pinside+ Frequent

Barnstable, MA

10y 82,550 2,162 6 2

This will be my first time attempting applying touch up paint to a playfield. What are the steps to be taken to correct this area? DecoArt acrylic by brush, or Createx by airbrush?

IMG_3738 (resized).jpg

0

#8320 1 year ago

MPG

Catch86

Pinside member

10y 57,900 398 6

Quoted from zahner:
Is there a paint or suggested process that would abate or minimize the rather substantial wear I’m currently experiencing?

Depends on what you're trying to do I guess. I put felt on the sides to prevent further wear.

IMG_5266 (resized).JPG

0

#8321 1 year ago

GTX

gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,220 70

Quoted from Catch86:
Depends on what you're trying to do I guess. I put felt on the sides to prevent further wear.
[quoted image]

Some of the Bally cabinets of this era are a really tight fit, I was going to put a strip of mylar on mine on each side.

0

#8322 1 year ago

ZAP

zahner

Pin-a-Go-Go

Fair Oaks, CA

10y 81,800 1,098 6 16

Quoted from gdonovan:
Some of the Bally cabinets of this era are a really tight fit, I was going to put a strip of mylar on mine on each side.

Oh - I had not thought of the idea of putting something on the sides of the playfield to prevent the damage. That’s a great idea. Thanks!

0

#8323 1 year ago

GTX

gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,220 70

Quoted from zahner:
Oh - I had not thought of the idea of putting something on the sides of the playfield to prevent the damage. That’s a great idea. Thanks!

I put it on the cabinet walls.

0

1

#8324 1 year ago

DEN

jibmums

Pinside member

12y 96,900 3,964 16

The inner cab walls only get damaged when raising or lowering the playfield, so that's really the only time they need to be protected. I have manila folders that I have cut and folded to slip and hang over the siderails when working on my pins, so the playfield sides never come in contact with the inner cab. Kinda like those rubber protectors that mechanics hang over your fender when working on your engine.

0

1

#8325 1 year ago

MRB

mark532011

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 82,800 1,716 7

Quoted from Playdium:
This will be my first time attempting applying touch up paint to a playfield. What are the steps to be taken to correct this area? DecoArt acrylic by brush, or Createx by airbrush?

Hopefully someone with a lot more experience can chime in. If it was mine, I would generate a paint mask of the blue (i use a scanner and cameo to cut out a mylar paint mask) and airbrush the whole blue, that way if the blue is not an absolutely perfect match you won't see the patch. And then probably do the others too, just so they all match.

0

#8326 1 year ago

DAW

BrokenChair

Pinside member

1y 52,300 1,253 7

Quoted from pinballinreno:
Use the diamond "brush on" clear, its perfect for this.
Its self leveling and sticks to the existing clear coat really well.
Use a "cut down" foam brush, tape off the area etc.
Drill the hole thru to the bottom, add a t-nut, and install the "same sized", machine threaded posts either 6-32 posts work with a smaller hole, 8-32 posts if its a bigger hole.
All fixed with no difficult work at all.

Does anyone have a link they can help a newbie for this aforementioned diamond brush on clear I’m having trouble finding it ;

Thanks guys; this is even beyond my techs expertise so now I think I’ll just do the clear coat fix for now

0

#8327 1 year ago

GTX

gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,220 70

Quoted from BrokenChair:
Does anyone have a link they can help a newbie for this aforementioned diamond brush on clear I’m having trouble finding it ;
Thanks guys; this is even beyond my techs expertise so now I think I’ll just do the clear coat fix for now

Amazon, Diamond Clear. Last a looked a quart $50 ish?

0

#8328 1 year ago

DAW

BrokenChair

Pinside member

1y 52,300 1,253 7

Ok thanks so this is what I need appreciate you; wow expensive stuff

7E8AECEC-FA7D-4696-A152-F9FAFAEBEF1D (resized).png

0

#8329 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,516 31

Quoted from BrokenChair:
Ok thanks so this is what I need appreciate you; wow expensive stuff
[quoted image]

$25 and comes with a de-waxer/precleaner and some supplies.

Its all you need for a small repair:

https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-50040-Headlight-Restore/dp/B00UDIZSP6/ref=sr_1_4

0

#8330 1 year ago

DAW

BrokenChair

Pinside member

1y 52,300 1,253 7

Quoted from pinballinreno:
$25 and comes with a de-waxer/precleaner and some supplies.
Its all you need for a small repair:
amazon.com link »

Completely new sorry for length thanks for help

Do I basically like just apply the finish over the cracked sections and area that got ripped up from pushing the stock Outlane post through the playfield ??

It’s really messed cracked wood clear coat coming off and cracked etc;

would someone kindly be willing to walk me through this general concept of what I’m trying to do here with this diamond coat and application of it ?

What do I do with all the chipped wood apply the finish all on top of everything damaged ?

I know absolutely nothing and would be forever grateful for any help .

Post last edited 1 year ago: “Length ”

0

#8331 1 year ago

PAT

PinFixin

Pinside member

Albuquerque, NM

8y 36,300 267 15

What would you recommend to fix these enlarged hole?

This is on my future spa on probably the highest stress area on any pinball machine. A mini post bolted through the playfield right in front of the flippers. These things get pummeled quite a bit. I've read that people say Bondo is too soft and to use Qwikwood, and then others say Qwikwood isn't for use on playfields and to use Bondo, and HEP uses Bondo. One of those answers is completely wrong for this application but I don't know which, or if there is something else?

I wanted to fill with something to remove the hole, then drill a hole for a #10 mini post bolt, and either go into a t-nut (preferred) or just a washer and nut underneath. Or would you guys recommending something different?

Pics:
Enlarged Hole Bottom PF (resized).jpgEnlarged Hole Top PF (resized).jpg

I'm even open to the idea of thinking outside the box and putting a different, newer style post there that would hold up better to the onslaught, but not be any larger in diameter to make the shot more difficult.

0

2

#8332 1 year ago

GER

hisokajp

Pinside+ Frequent

Redmond, WA

9y 81,800 1,891 46 11

Quoted from PinFixin:
What would you recommend to fix these enlarged hole?
This is on my future spa on probably the highest stress area on any pinball machine. A mini post bolted through the playfield right in front of the flippers. These things get pummeled quite a bit. I've read that people say Bondo is too soft and to use Qwikwood, and then others say Qwikwood isn't for use on playfields and to use Bondo, and HEP uses Bondo. One of those answers is completely wrong for this application but I don't know which, or if there is something else?
I wanted to fill with something to remove the hole, then drill a hole for a #10 mini post bolt, and either go into a t-nut (preferred) or just a washer and nut underneath. Or would you guys recommending something different?
Pics:
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'm even open to the idea of thinking outside the box and putting a different, newer style post there that would hold up better to the onslaught, but not be any larger in diameter to make the shot more difficult.

most people would use good wood dowel with wood glue to fill holes like this but for post that get hammer hard like this one i would seriously think about using a Tnut and a mchine screw type post, with a washer underneath that may cover your hole anyway?

0

#8333 1 year ago

PAT

PinFixin

Pinside member

Albuquerque, NM

8y 36,300 267 15

Quoted from hisokajp:
most people would use good wood dowel with wood glue to fill holes like this but for post that get hammer hard like this one i would seriously think about using a Tnut and a mchine screw type post, with a washer underneath that may cover your hole anyway?

The hole is too large for a #10 mini post on the top. It's enlarging the hole even more. I currently have a #10 washer on top of the playfield just to ensure the post won't bite and go through the playfield. It's very big. I do have a #10 t-nut underneath, but it's barely fitting there, with the hole for the stationary target right next to it, I'm afraid it's going to crack, or enlarge the stationary target hole as well. So the fix, is really just for fixing the top of the playfield so the standard mini-post will be secure.

0

3

#8334 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Common repair on all those style Bally (playboy, Spa, SBM)

First, repair hole with hardwood dowel.

Then re-drill from topside with #10 hole.

From backside, partially enlarge hole to allow T-nut to install flush. Don't make the larger hole all the way through, we want the top half of the hole to be a snug #10.

Put small, thin washer on topside.

Put a drop of Blue loctite on Tnut threads, or a lock nut on any threads protruding past the tnut.

hd-10-32-threaded-mini-ring-post-stud-03-4660-moneymachines (resized).jpg

the-hillman-group-tee-nuts-4148-64_1000-2576916 (resized).jpg

0

1

#8335 1 year ago

PAT

PinFixin

Pinside member

Albuquerque, NM

8y 36,300 267 15

Got it, ty vid!

0

#8336 1 year ago

PAT

PinFixin

Pinside member

Albuquerque, NM

8y 36,300 267 15

Oh another question, should I clearcoat over it, or nah?

0

1

#8337 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from PinFixin:
Oh another question, should I clearcoat over it, or nah?

I'd recommend you clearcoat the entire playfield, but the glue squeezout will probably lock down any stray fibers for you; no worries.

0

#8338 1 year ago

???

joshmc

Pinside member

Gold Coast

3y 26,800 180

Hi everyone, vid1900 I have a small issue. I’m in the process of cleaning up a Future spa playfield in prep for putting down a hardtop. Stupidly, I removed 80% of the inserts when I didn’t really need to. In the process of doing this I damaged the 4 arrows positioned at the top f the playfield. Unfortunately the ones I purchased off Marco are too large. A friend who recently completed a Future Spa overlay used a very thin piece of plastic from a coloured notepad - positioning it over the arrow before laying the hardtop over the top. It looks great but I’m concerned that it will ever so slightly raise the playfield in that spot, affecting game play. What are your thoughts? I still have the old arrows but they are damaged and probably not worth trying to re-install

1AA4AC15-C5D9-4ABF-A1E6-FA4E862BA670 (resized).jpeg

573B9757-E083-4F46-985B-2201EC13F88C (resized).jpeg

5A2F1DE9-C34A-4237-B1B2-BA40196C0C94 (resized).jpeg

5C0CAE98-81E4-4641-BB19-F27269AF8CB8 (resized).jpeg

6C4D34AC-947F-484A-BD65-9B1C9A5DD8C3 (resized).png

7F4F1CC2-6F2B-4623-A623-C1A76B238456 (resized).png

C35F7DDF-21D1-4A1C-B0FE-D67238BC07A7 (resized).png

D0CACA87-C353-4B21-8551-76000340F606 (resized).png

F70D4C6F-6584-4591-A923-334F0E0BF82A (resized).jpeg

0

#8339 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Yikes, let's see a picture of the damaged inserts

0

#8340 1 year ago

???

joshmc

Pinside member

Gold Coast

3y 26,800 180

I know vid1900 Not great.

16B6FF27-9EBF-466A-9C43-4470CA0FB7C5 (resized).jpeg1F7C5864-2531-4ED9-9755-DFC5D5D1B79D (resized).png8F8EEC53-DEE8-421F-8FBD-13A4135AE3DB (resized).jpegFEDA6932-ED15-446E-B617-9689744C93E9 (resized).png

0

#8341 1 year ago

???

joshmc

Pinside member

Gold Coast

3y 26,800 180

Quoted from joshmc:
I know @vid1900 Not great.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

0

#8342 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

I'd worry that the cellophane will fade, shrink or otherwise become dislodged over time.

I'd try to put those inserts back if at all possible

Maybe someone here can give you some intact used ones (ebay?) if Planetary does not have any

0

#8343 1 year ago

JAH

John_In_WI

Pinside member

12y 36,550 357

Did you try Pinball Life?

0

#8344 1 year ago

TPK

Dakine747

Pinside+ Frequent

Mequon, WI

3y 58,550 478 9

Or try Steve Young??

0

#8345 1 year ago

???

thephantombrain

Pinside member

Unknown

1y 7,250 3

I've been lurking here for many months trying to get a feel for how I wanted to proceed with my Stellar Wars that has a decent playfield but raised inserts. Finally i tracked down the most recent plastic primer and the Harbor Freight quick setting epoxy that you said worked for a YouTuber that you followed. I built a galvanized rotisserie from another guide of yours. Tonight, I pulled the playfield, mounted it onto the rotisserie only to find that I had failed to look at how the inserts sit into their holes. I was expecting to take the dremel to the horizontal lip of the insert that sat into a hole the same diameter as the insert. These inserts are sitting inside of some kind of chamfer on top and the hole on the underside of the playfield is actually a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the insert. (See the round hole)

So after I heat and then clamp, am I using the dremel to give tooth to the horizontal inner wall of the insert and than pooling the epoxy between the wood and plastic with the playfield turned vertically on the rotisserie?

Okay, I just looked at the arrow shaped inserts and they are what I thought I was going to be dealing with. Hmmm....

20230225_164533 (resized).jpg20230225_170607 (resized).jpg

Post last edited 1 year ago: “Spelling and grammar”

0

1

#8346 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from thephantombrain:
I've been lurking here for many months trying to get a feel for how I wanted to proceed with my Stellar Wars that has a decent playfield but raised inserts. Finally i tracked down the most recent plastic primer and the Harbor Freight quick setting epoxy that you said worked for a YouTuber that you followed. I built a galvanized rotisserie from another guide of yours. Tonight, I pulled the playfield, mounted it onto the rotisserie only to find that I had failed to look at how the inserts sit into their holes. I was expecting to take the dremel to the horizontal lip of the insert that sat into a hole the same diameter as the insert. These inserts are sitting inside of some kind of chamfer on top and the hole on the underside of the playfield is actually a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the insert. (See the round hole)
So after I heat and then clamp, am I using the dremel to give tooth to the horizontal inner wall of the insert and than pooling the epoxy between the wood and plastic with the playfield turned vertically on the rotisserie?
Okay, I just looked at the arrow shaped inserts and they are what I thought I was going to be dealing with. Hmmm....
[quoted image][quoted image]

First, see if you can just heat up the insert and clamp it back down flush (directions in the first few pages of this thread). They are stuck in with mastic that is very heat responsive.

Unless you have a replacement "in hand" do not try to remove any inserts!

0

Assuming you absolutely need to remove an insert:

Don't pry them out with a screwdriver, because they will break, and you might not be able to find any replacements that fit. Circular inserts you push out with a matching size wrench socket, triangular inserts push out with a wedge of wood. Warm them up, but not too hot, or they melt.

Pinside_forum_4468739_1310132 (resized).jpg

Pinside_forum_4468739_1310133 (resized).jpg

0

#8347 1 year ago

DAD

Spunky1562

Pinside+ Frequent

4y 61,300 304

Welp. I tried to fix a ghosted insert that was loose. I glued the insert first and then cut and carefully lifted the old clear and set to inject my clear (MC161). I placed a rubber sanding block on top, over wax paper and clamped it down.

I removed the block after 24 hours and I guess since the insert was down a 64th of an inch, the block didn’t keep pressure. How screwed am I?

Playfield picture is before. Closeup is now. Robin insert is lower right inlane.

01970EE7-A281-4A84-A871-8BFC0434047B (resized).jpeg

D30CFE90-3363-49E5-B9C3-F5AC896C24FD (resized).jpeg

0

#8348 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from Spunky1562:
Welp. I tried to fix a ghosted insert that was loose. I glued the insert first and then cut and carefully lifted the old clear and set to inject my clear (MC161). I placed a rubber sanding block on top, over wax paper and clamped it down.
I removed the block after 24 hours and I guess since the insert was down a 64th of an inch, the block didn’t keep pressure. How screwed am I?
Playfield picture is before. Closeup is now. Robin insert is lower right inlane.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You are still OK, although it will be a little work

Take an Xacto, and put a couple small slits in those air gaps, and just drip some clear. Poke at it with the blade and try to get it to wick in.

0

#8349 1 year ago

DHN

Dan_Halen

Hansen Pinball Repair

4y 54,300 315

While I most certainly have not ready all 167 pages of this glorious thread, I feel I've put in a valiant effort in search of the question I have.

I have a newly acquired Williams Blackout machine with terribly cupped inserts. I feel I have a grasp on filling these inserts based on what I've read here, but my question is this: Can I fill the cupped inserts to level them, and NOT clear the playfield? I in no way feel confident enough to do the level of work that I would need to do in order to feel good about it (at this time anyway), but I really just want to be able to play the game without the balls getting stuck in the inserts when I'm cradling.

If it's not a good idea, I definitely wont try, but I just had to ask.

Thank you!

0

1

#8350 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,235 18

Quoted from Dan_Halen:
I have a newly acquired Williams Blackout machine with terribly cupped inserts. I feel I have a grasp on filling these inserts based on what I've read here, but my question is this: Can I fill the cupped inserts to level them, and NOT clear the playfield? I in no way feel confident enough to do the level of work that I would need to do in order to feel good about it (at this time anyway), but I really just want to be able to play the game without the balls getting stuck in the inserts when I'm cradling.
If it's not a good idea, I definitely wont try, but I just had to ask.
Thank you!

You can level the inserts w/o clearing the playfield.

Just make sure you light the inserts up from below, and fix all the chips in the black ink and the Keyline around the edge, BEFORE you seal it under for all time.

But if I were you, I'd go ahead and clear the playfield while you have the topside stripped down

By vid1900

11 years ago

Topic Stats

You

Find in topic

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

Topic index (key posts)

Reply

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!