(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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#8251 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I agree that the most sure fire method to ensure the post stays put long term is to now swap it out for one that attaches with a nut from below. Even with a hardwood dowel, the hole is going to be weaker than it would otherwise have been. Granted it isn’t getting slammed in the line of fire (any post that is should *definitely* not be wood threaded, I change them over all the time from factory), but a through-bolted connection will put the worry to rest for good.
I’m a recovering cabinet maker; whenever you pre-drill (and you should always pre-drill), make sure that the bit is the diameter of the core of the screw. The threads should be cutting a path but the body of the screw should not be getting any resistance. When in doubt, test it on a piece of plywood or hardwood scrap. It should drive comfortably without excessive force and when it’s seated it should be very firmly in place.
Not trying to make anyone feel dumb, not at all, just passing along something I learned in the cabinetry realm, it’s never steered me wrong.

Here is a pilot hole chart:
I use somewhere between the hardwood and softwood sizes, sometimes, as I have numeric sizes bits, but its a good reference:

https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/tools/drill-bit-sizes-wood-screw-pilot-holes/

#8252 1 year ago

Just had this gorgeous Future Spa delivered from US. Don’t want to mess with it but would like to clean the playfield a little. Suggestions? Magic eraser and isopropyl? Naptha?

1BFFC063-FAF6-41ED-B5E6-6AF95E1A5CB0 (resized).jpeg1BFFC063-FAF6-41ED-B5E6-6AF95E1A5CB0 (resized).jpeg942D3048-8887-42FA-A0DE-C088BE5FBC7E (resized).jpeg942D3048-8887-42FA-A0DE-C088BE5FBC7E (resized).jpeg9ACF4A3A-94BC-458E-807D-4B7B7CBC1857 (resized).jpeg9ACF4A3A-94BC-458E-807D-4B7B7CBC1857 (resized).jpeg9CDC3310-858A-40C2-8300-54589BA17DDE (resized).jpeg9CDC3310-858A-40C2-8300-54589BA17DDE (resized).jpeg
#8255 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Here is a pilot hole chart:
I use somewhere between the hardwood and softwood sizes, sometimes, as I have numeric sizes bits, but its a good reference:
https://handtoolessentials.com/blog/tools/drill-bit-sizes-wood-screw-pilot-holes/

Thanks for posting this. Good reference.

#8256 1 year ago

Hi restorers!

I’ve been working away at restoring my Captain Fantastic playfield. So far I have:

1. Sanded the wooded area (shooter lane right up to and included the ball arch)
2. Applied Polyurethane to the above wooded areas. Sanded with 220, 320 then applied another coat of Polyurethane
3. Created stencils for the piano, Elton’s clothes and other white areas.
4 Air brushed badly faded white areas with Createx White mixed with balancing clear 4030 and 4011 reducer
I’m using Photoshop, along with Illustrator and Silhouette Cameo software (designer edition). I normally create vectors using the pen tool (straight or curved) but today I used the Lasso tool to create a path and used that as my vector for Cameo software.

I’m wondering if there a better way of creating a path for vectors, particular for letters and numbers, text on the playfield (circled). I’ve used water slide decals for lettering previously because it just looks sharper but I would love to learn how to get an accurate vector of the playfield text as well as a technique for getting the finer detail like that circled in the attached image. If anyone can make any suggestions, I’d greatly appreciate it!

453AFB6E-4386-4C49-A3B3-5A9543CAD962 (resized).jpeg453AFB6E-4386-4C49-A3B3-5A9543CAD962 (resized).jpeg74965013-A0DC-4561-BE3B-A1EAC8B8EE3B (resized).jpeg74965013-A0DC-4561-BE3B-A1EAC8B8EE3B (resized).jpeg7766E604-C97C-4831-8E58-D94DA76877BB (resized).jpeg7766E604-C97C-4831-8E58-D94DA76877BB (resized).jpeg77C9CC55-B86A-4986-B6F0-CDBD3B00DF74 (resized).jpeg77C9CC55-B86A-4986-B6F0-CDBD3B00DF74 (resized).jpegE3805907-CAF1-42CD-92CB-ACD845E38CBE (resized).pngE3805907-CAF1-42CD-92CB-ACD845E38CBE (resized).pngE96703C7-FA24-4FF1-8834-D920458BC6AA (resized).jpegE96703C7-FA24-4FF1-8834-D920458BC6AA (resized).jpeg
#8257 1 year ago
Quoted from joshmc:

I’m wondering if there a better way of creating a path for vectors, particular for letters and numbers, text on the playfield (circled)

Someone else may have a speedier process, but this is what works well for me:

- open scan in Pshop. Use magic wand tool to select all of a given color. Open a new layer. Use the eye dropper to select the color from background layer, then use the bucket tool in your new layer to create a big splash of color out of your magic wand selection. This will be rough and ugly.

- repeat for however many colors you want to repaint. Each color in its own layer.

- using a digital drawing tablet, use the pen tool to fill in missing areas and to smooth rough patches. Pay attention to the edges, you want them well defined.
Name your layers according to color. You’re basically recreating silkscreen layers.

- save the file with layers intact (pshop will ask you how you want to save.)

- open the file in AI. Use image trace to vectorize your layers, one at a time. You will probably have to use the smoother tool to iron out the bumps. If you took your time in pshop, your work at this stage will be minimized.

- that’s it. Save each layer as its own file, exported to whichever file format the silhouette prefers (I like .tiff as it never creates scaling problems.)

#8258 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Someone else may have a speedier process, but this is what works well for me:
- open scan in Pshop. Use magic wand tool to select all of a given color. Open a new layer. Use the eye dropper to select the color from background layer, then use the bucket tool in your new layer to create a big splash of color out of your magic wand selection. This will be rough and ugly.
- repeat for however many colors you want to repaint. Each color in its own layer.
- using a digital drawing tablet, use the pen tool to fill in missing areas and to smooth rough patches. Pay attention to the edges, you want them well defined.
Name your layers according to color. You’re basically recreating silkscreen layers.
- save the file with layers intact (pshop will ask you how you want to save.)
- open the file in AI. Use image trace to vectorize your layers, one at a time. You will probably have to use the smoother tool to iron out the bumps. If you took your time in pshop, your work at this stage will be minimized.
- that’s it. Save each layer as its own file, exported to whichever file format the silhouette prefers (I like .tiff as it never creates scaling problems.)

This is one of those processes that are self explanatory with a visual aid… because I understood everything you just said, just have no idea why you did what you did.

#8259 1 year ago

If you are reproducing multiple layers using stencils cut on a vinyl cutter, this process makes it logical to my mind - mimics the original screen process.

Using AI might only really be necessary when printing decals. Crisp lines that look original vs. pixelated graphics. I’ve had to do some complicated decals which then get cut out using the silhouette. Halftones introduce another curve ball - you can’t vectorize those.

Basically if I’m putting in the time working digitally, I like to make a file that gives me the option of recreating everything layer by layer. I find that my decals end up looking way better this way, and it’s what you need to do to get good stencils. I can get a pretty smooth workflow going, but it may not be something that others want to delve into.

1 week later
1 month later
#8261 1 year ago

Hi vid1900 thanks for sharing all your expertise.

My other half bought a priest creech yesterday, I told her it's not worth it, knowing I'd likely be stuck trying to fix it up.

The main deal breaker for me was the pf damage here.

IMG-20221220-WA0009 (resized).jpgIMG-20221220-WA0009 (resized).jpg
IMG-20221220-WA0011 (resized).jpgIMG-20221220-WA0011 (resized).jpg

I found these insert decals at Pinball Center (I am hoping it's just a bad photo and not representative of the quality)
image_42092_1 (resized).jpgimage_42092_1 (resized).jpg

We have a Diner I used decals on but I just popped a playfield protector over the top as I didn't have the confidence to clear plus diner being an uncleared game I thought I'd have to get the entire pf done or if would be silly .

But with Creech it's only two inserts (so far) and it's diamond plated , I think? So I figured I could just clear that small area.

Is there any rattle can product that's affordable we can use and just apply to that area by masking around it?
We have different products available in the UK and I've not been able to find any listed in the thread so far.

I found this on Amazon UK
Deal: Hycote Clear Lacquer 400ml https://amzn.eu/d/0z0Lm9V

But really would appreciate if someone could help me find something suitable on Amazon UK or UK in general.

#8263 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Is there any rattle can product that's affordable we can use and just apply to that area by masking around it?

Sorry, even if you mixed up real 2PAC and tried a "spot repair", it would just chip along the edges of the repair as time goes on

Make sure those decals are meant to be clear coated over, because most are just stickers

If the decals are made to be clearcoated, find out what clear they are compatible/tested with.

#8264 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Sorry, even if you mixed up real 2PAC and tried a "spot repair", it would just chip along the edges of the repair as time goes on
Make sure those decals are meant to be clear coated over, because most are just stickers
If the decals are made to be clearcoated, find out what clear they are compatible/tested with.

The description just says
"Precision Cut Insert Decals, just peel and stick.
High Quality Print!"

I suppose they are just stickers going by that? When these companies make decals like this do they intend you to stick them directly onto the playfield and do nothing else?
I had similar for Diner but I put a pf protector over the top so didn't worry about it.

I am intending to scan them so I have the ability to make some waterslide decals in future and have backups.

I know of some people who have sprayed a thin layer of clear over an area where they have used decals. But I'm still unsure what kind of decals suit this, if any.

Also, if scanning them I suppose I could use them for now and see how they last?

#8265 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

The description just says
"Precision Cut Insert Decals, just peel and stick.
High Quality Print!"
I suppose they are just stickers going by that? When these companies make decals like this do they intend you to stick them directly onto the playfield and do nothing else?
I had similar for Diner but I put a pf protector over the top so didn't worry about it.
I am intending to scan them so I have the ability to make some waterslide decals in future and have backups.
I know of some people who have sprayed a thin layer of clear over an area where they have used decals. But I'm still unsure what kind of decals suit this, if any.
Also, if scanning them I suppose I could use them for now and see how they last?

Keep in mind those stickers are the full heart image, so they cover more area than just the insert. That means you'd want to either fill your insert with something first (to avoid a dip, but you're left with a bump), or cut out the portion of the sticker that can fit inside the insert. In my minimal experience, the sticker thickness has been comparable to the insert depth--in other words, there's a good chance that once you put the sticker on the insert, it will be level with the playfield.

If you go the waterslide decal route, you can take a look at using a UV resin (e.g. solarez) to spot-clear the insert. It goes on thin and cures with a UV flashlight in a few minutes. It's not going to win any beauty contests though or turn your playfield into a collector's item.

#8266 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:I suppose they are just stickers going by that?

Sounds like stickers...email them and ask how they are intended to be used.

Scan them, then just stick them on.

They'll probably last a year or so of play, so that will give you time to decide how much effort you want to put into your game.

It's a big job taking everything off the playfield for a real restoration.

#8267 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Sounds like stickers...email them and ask how they are intended to be used.
Scan them, then just stick them on.
They'll probably last a year or so of play, so that will give you time to decide how much effort you want to put into your game.
It's a big job taking everything off the playfield for a real restoration.

Will probably try this and hope I can line them up well enough.
We're going to strip most of the topside as it's not been cleaned for close to a decade.
Restoring the pf is a job for someone other than me, for sure.

Quoted from Kevlar51:

Keep in mind those stickers are the full heart image, so they cover more area than just the insert. That means you'd want to either fill your insert with something first (to avoid a dip, but you're left with a bump), or cut out the portion of the sticker that can fit inside the insert. In my minimal experience, the sticker thickness has been comparable to the insert depth--in other words, there's a good chance that once you put the sticker on the insert, it will be level with the playfield.
If you go the waterslide decal route, you can take a look at using a UV resin (e.g. solarez) to spot-clear the insert. It goes on thin and cures with a UV flashlight in a few minutes. It's not going to win any beauty contests though or turn your playfield into a collector's item.

I can't believe I didn't notice the shape of the insert decals.

Do you mean if I cut the decal to fit in the hole where there's no art it'll be flat with the pf?

It's tempting to see if I can scan the decal, modify them and then print on waterslide.
I only have a hp inkjet with scanner ontop, not sure how good this will be?

#8268 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I only have a hp inkjet with scanner ontop, not sure how good this will be?

Inkjet fades really fast

#8269 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Do you mean if I cut the decal to fit in the hole where there's no art it'll be flat with the pf?

Yes. But first try cutting a scrap corner off the sticker sheet to check on that.

1 week later
#8270 1 year ago

Decals came and they're not very good. The milkshake one is missing the pink part on the bottom, they've made it white.

KISS letters are a totally different pink.

We're going to scan them and see about matching the colour and making our own.

The other half has been looking into a laser printer for a while so it might be a worthwhile investment in general.
I'd be fine using the decals for now but they're so inaccurate that the white part and the pink would drive me mad

Is there a way to tell if they're waterslide or whatever else ?

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#8271 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Decals came and they're not very good. The milkshake one is missing the pink part on the bottom, they've made it white.
KISS letters are a totally different pink.
We're going to scan them and see about matching the colour and making our own.
The other half has been looking into a laser printer for a while so it might be a worthwhile investment in general.
I'd be fine using the decals for now but they're so inaccurate that the white part and the pink would drive me mad
Is there a way to tell if they're waterslide or whatever else ?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look like stickers to me.

do you have to soak them in water to get them off the backing? (hence the name water slide...)

Or do they just peel off?

That chip looks clean enough to just glue it back down with a little thin CA glue.

#8272 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Those look like stickers to me.
do you have to soak them in water to get them off the backing? (hence the name water slide...)
Or do they just peel off?
That chip looks clean enough to just glue it back down with a little thin CA glue.

Sticking it back did cross my mind but the rest of the insert art is cracked and brittle where it's lifted so I think it will have to be addressed or cut out. It was suggested I could pop glue under it but I think it's too far gone.

What is CA Glue? Could it be a type of superglue? Products vary between USA and UK where I am
I'll try peeling a bit of the sheet later

#8273 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Sticking it back did cross my mind but the rest of the insert art is cracked and brittle where it's lifted so I think it will have to be addressed or cut out. It was suggested I could pop glue under it but I think it's too far gone.
What is CA Glue? Could it be a type of superglue? Products vary between USA and UK where I am
I'll try peeling a bit of the sheet later

CA glue is superglue… cyanoacrylate

#8274 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Sticking it back did cross my mind but the rest of the insert art is cracked and brittle where it's lifted so I think it will have to be addressed or cut out. It was suggested I could pop glue under it but I think it's too far gone.

very common repair

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-551833

2 weeks later
#8275 1 year ago

Anyone use a color matching light like this before?

https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-paint-detailing-color--2127-20/045242598847.html

Didn’t know something like this existed, came across it by accident and just curious if it would be useful for PF color matching.

#8276 1 year ago
Quoted from radium:

Anyone use a color matching light like this before?
https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-m12-paint-detailing-color--2127-20/045242598847.html
Didn’t know something like this existed, came across it by accident and just curious if it would be useful for PF color matching.

OH wow that is neat

#8277 1 year ago

I thought that might analyze paint and tell you what to adjust, but its just a light with different temperatures. Is that useful?

#8278 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I thought that might analyze paint and tell you what to adjust, but its just a light with different temperatures. Is that useful?

It’s because the color match might look fine in one kind of light but stick out like a sore thumb in others. I had a car that got keyed in college and the repair job looked great in my garage but liked like shit in the sun.

#8279 1 year ago

Hello all. After 5 years into the hobby I finally got enough courage to clearcoat my T2 playfield. I red almost all of this topic but I still have 2 questions.
1. Those metal tubes used to allign the flippers protrude from the bottom part with about 5 milimeters. Should I take them out, do the clearcoat, drill 2 holes and put them back in or can I hammer them flat on the top side and cut them flush on the bottom and clearcoat top and bottom side with those pieces in there?
2. What to do with the bumper screws? Should I leave them there and try to go around? It will be difficult to sand on both sides because of them. Should I take them out? How? I could not find any post or picture with someone doing this part, only the install on a new playfield.
Thank you for this topic and all the knowlege that came from it.

#8280 1 year ago
Quoted from DrChrys:

1. Those metal tubes used to allign the flippers protrude from the bottom part with about 5 milimeters. Should I take them out, do the clearcoat, drill 2 holes and put them back in or can I hammer them flat on the top side and cut them flush on the bottom and clearcoat top and bottom side with those pieces in there?

Just leave them sticking out the backside.

Are you clearcoating the backside??

Quoted from DrChrys:

2. What to do with the bumper screws? Should I leave them there and try to go around? It will be difficult to sand on both sides because of them. Should I take them out? How? I could not find any post or picture with someone doing this part, only the install on a new playfield.

Just tap them out from the backside, they come right out

#8281 1 year ago

Yes I want to clearcoat the back too. Is there any purpose of those things being longer than the playfield? If I cut them it will be easier to sand the back. Thanks for your effort for the pinball community.

#8282 1 year ago
Quoted from DrChrys:

Yes I want to clearcoat the back too. Is there any purpose of those things being longer than the playfield? If I cut them it will be easier to sand the back. Thanks for your effort for the pinball community.

They are just standard Roll Pins, so they used what was cheap (rather than have some custom made).

#8283 1 year ago
Quoted from DrChrys:

Yes I want to clearcoat the back too. Is there any purpose of those things being longer than the playfield? If I cut them it will be easier to sand the back. Thanks for your effort for the pinball community.

Is there a reason you are clearcoating the back? I’m not aware of any benefits besides it not getting dirty as quickly?

#8284 1 year ago
Quoted from DrChrys:

Yes I want to clearcoat the back too. Is there any purpose of those things being longer than the playfield? If I cut them it will be easier to sand the back. Thanks for your effort for the pinball community.

Clearcoating the back side is just silly and leads to problems.

If you want to finish the backside, just a quick coat or 2 of polyacrylic, it doesnt have to be perfect.

Ron Kruzman does it this way to keep finger prints off down the road.

#8285 1 year ago

Hello All
Working on an old pin that the rubber rings have rotted and appear that they have melted and now I have little spitballs of old rubber on the playfield. Any way to clean these off? I have tried gently scrapping with plastic razor blade. It does take some off, but when I rub my hand over the PF, I can feel them still.
Thanks
Mike

#8286 1 year ago

OMG!!!
My HP Flatbed scanner died!!! What is the best replacement for it?
Mike

#8288 1 year ago

Going to do a little touch up on my Space Shuttle today. Just three or four spots where I have some bare wood. Was thinking about going over the entire playfield with magic eraser before I start. I never did this when I got the machine; just cleaned it up and waxed it. My question is, do Williams playfields from this era have a small clear coat (albeit, thin) on them? Would I actually be removing that with the magic eraser? Overall the playfield looks pretty decent, but the art faded a bit; could use to be brightened up. Might benefit from it. Thanks.

#8289 1 year ago
Quoted from packie1:

Hello All
Working on an old pin that the rubber rings have rotted and appear that they have melted and now I have little spitballs of old rubber on the playfield. Any way to clean these off? I have tried gently scrapping with plastic razor blade. It does take some off, but when I rub my hand over the PF, I can feel them still.
Thanks
Mike

Happens all the time.

A little Naphtha on a cloth should do it.

#8290 1 year ago
Quoted from interconnect:

Going to do a little touch up on my Space Shuttle today. Just three or four spots where I have some bare wood. Was thinking about going over the entire playfield with magic eraser before I start. I never did this when I got the machine; just cleaned it up and waxed it. My question is, do Williams playfields from this era have a small clear coat (albeit, thin) on them? Would I actually be removing that with the magic eraser?

The thinnest, weakest clearcoat ever was on those sys9 playfields

You are correct, magic eraser and alcohol will remove the remaining clear.

#8291 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The thinnest, weakest clearcoat ever was on those sys9 playfields
You are correct, magic eraser and alcohol will remove the remaining clear.

Ok, that’s a thought I remember reading somewhere. Thanks

#8292 1 year ago

Well, I botched the clear coat. I think I put too much on…. Or maybe I didn’t get the wax all the way off. It’s all blotchy and hazy in the area around the pop bumpers. Is their anything I can do to fix it? It looks horrible. Any tips would be appreciated.

1F1AFB4B-FC3B-4C7C-B82C-DA929F8AC5F5 (resized).jpeg1F1AFB4B-FC3B-4C7C-B82C-DA929F8AC5F5 (resized).jpeg979147F8-E0F4-4783-8359-68825DB10C5C (resized).jpeg979147F8-E0F4-4783-8359-68825DB10C5C (resized).jpegE73B4D6B-F38F-4A9F-AA29-629B36C887FB (resized).jpegE73B4D6B-F38F-4A9F-AA29-629B36C887FB (resized).jpeg

#8293 1 year ago
Quoted from interconnect:

Well, I botched the clear coat. I think I put too much on…. Or maybe I didn’t get the wax all the way off. It’s all blotchy and hazy in the area around the pop bumpers. Is their anything I can do to fix it? It looks horrible. Any tips would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you use water based varathane?

#8294 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Did you use water based varathane?

I used Rustoelum satin clear enamel

Just realized I think I used the wrong stuff. Should’ve got the Krylon satin Acrylic clear. Maybe. I don’t know. Ugh!

#8295 1 year ago
Quoted from interconnect:

I used Rustoelum satin clear enamel

If it's Satin, that means it's a non-glossy finish. So it will not be shiny, even after a few weeks.

Because it's a rattle-can enamel, it probably will dry, outgass and shrink for another 6 weeks or so. Then you can see what you are working with.

I've never seen anyone use Rust-Oleum on a playfield, so you are kinda in uncharted waters

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1668988

#8296 1 year ago
Quoted from interconnect:

Well, I botched the clear coat. I think I put too much on…. Or maybe I didn’t get the wax all the way off. It’s all blotchy and hazy in the area around the pop bumpers. Is their anything I can do to fix it? It looks horrible. Any tips would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sand it all off, finish removing all the mylar and mechs you left on. Just let them hang by their wires and tape them up the masking tape.

You really cant do a good job if you leave the mylar and all the mechs in place....

Sand it totally flat.

Brush this stuff on thick enough to cover brush strokes, it will cover almost anything and is not as finicky as P2K, no respitator or spray booth needed, just brush it on:

https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-8404-DiamondFinish-Clear/dp/B00DMIDEMS

Sand it flat and buff it off.

#8297 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sand it all off, finish removing all the mylar and mechs you left on. Just let them hang by their wires and tape them up the masking tape.
You really cant do a good job if you leave the mylar and all the mechs in place....
Sand it totally flat.
Brush this stuff on thick enough to cover brush strokes, it will cover almost anything and is not as finicky as P2K, no respitator or spray booth needed, just brush it on:
amazon.com link »
Sand it flat and buff it off.

You have used this? The reviews on Amazon are okay but not great. Some of the pics of folk's work are bad. Do you have pics of PFs you did with this?
Mike

#8298 1 year ago
Quoted from packie1:

You have used this? The reviews on Amazon are okay but not great. Some of the pics of folk's work are bad. Do you have pics of PFs you did with this?
Mike

I've done 3 playfields with it, all holding up great.

others have used a roller to great success as well

while you can polish out to high sheen I purposely left this one not
IMG_20200114_152928 (resized).jpgIMG_20200114_152928 (resized).jpg

#8299 1 year ago

Thanks everyone. Fixed it. Sanded it out with 1000, 1500, 2000 and cleaned and re-cleared and it came out good.

#8300 1 year ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I've done 3 playfields with it, all holding up great.
others have used a roller to great success as well
while you can polish out to high sheen I purposely left this one not
[quoted image]

What I really like about that product is that you can easily repair chips and defects WAY after the fact.
It bonds very well to the cured product, unlike P2K.

Its nearly ideal for pinball and dries ROCK hard just like P2K. It also "dies" back like P2K.

You can also thin it out to "wick" it into cracks or loose chips.

It takes a bit longer to dry, but if your not in too much of a hurry, it works VERY well.

They also claim that it bonds to old P2K. I havent tried it yet, but it looks VER/Y promising for repairs.

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