Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

0

#8001 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from rdrapeau3171:
I didn't scan the decals before I started (of course). They were on a white sheet.

Even white on white will come out grey when you turn up the contrast (or darkness) on the laser printer

Quoted from rdrapeau3171:
From what I described that I did, do you think those are fisheyes or just improper technique, weather, humidity?

Usually fisheyes are some sort of contamination, but that looks like zillions of bubbles of trapped gas

Could be a bad batch, two layers were incompatible, too thick application, or could be the clear hardened before the gas could escape

No matter the cause, the fix is the same: expose bubbles by sanding, fill with the next layer of clear

Don't sand through any more decals, carefully hand sand around them to expose any remaining bubbles

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1

#8002 1 year ago

???

rdrapeau3171

Pinside+ Addict

North Port, FL

4y 30,050 187 5

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
carefully hand sand around them to expose any remaining bubbles

Vid,
What would you look for to know if you have exposed all of the remaining bubbles? Apply naptha and if you don't see any bubbles it should be good?

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1

#8003 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from rdrapeau3171:
Vid,
What would you look for to know if you have exposed all of the remaining bubbles? Apply naptha and if you don't see any bubbles it should be good?

exactly.

If the naphtha **fills in** the bubbles, then you know they have been exposed to the surface

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1

#8004 1 year ago

???

rdrapeau3171

Pinside+ Addict

North Port, FL

4y 30,050 187 5

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
exactly.
If the naphtha **fills in** the bubbles, then you know they have been exposed to the surface

Thanks Vid. I have someone that responded to another post and they may have some decals they can send/sell me. If so I'll be able to scan them and do what you recommended. I will keep you posted.

0

#8005 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,504 31

It might be time to revisit a technique to fix screw pops thru the playfield surface.

I just got a WWF in trade that has a screw pop that barely goes thru, but it makes a 1/2" circle sized bubble.

I beleive I can glue it from the bottom and clamp it down with my 12" c clamp to flatten it and put a mylar over the area while waiting for clearcoat.

Im hoping this will flatten it down so it doesnt get worse and chip out.

0

#8006 1 year ago

MCP

packie1

Pinside+ Addict

Kewanee, IL

12y 57,800 638 26

Quoted from pinballinreno:
It might be time to revisit a technique to fix screw pops thru the playfield surface.
I just got a WWF in trade that has a screw pop that barely goes thru, but it makes a 1/2" circle sized bubble.
I beleive I can glue it from the bottom and clamp it down with my 12" c clamp to flatten it and put a mylar over the area while waiting for clearcoat.
Im hoping this will flatten it down so it doesnt get worse and chip out.

Can you show a pic of this? I cant seem to visualize the damage or your fix.
Thanks
Mike

0

#8007 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

I'd use a Doming Punch to slightly set the peak below the surface

If you don't have a set, the ball on the end of a craftsman nutdriver works

Then inject some glue from the back side to keep it down

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1802904

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1

#8008 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,504 31

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
I'd use a Doming Punch to slightly set the peak below the surface
If you don't have a set, the ball on the end of a craftsman nutdriver works
Then inject some glue from the back side to keep it down
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1802904

I do have a set of those.

Ill get a picture tomorrow,

0

#8009 1 year ago

???

rdrapeau3171

Pinside+ Addict

North Port, FL

4y 30,050 187 5

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Even white on white will come out grey when you turn up the contrast (or darkness) on the laser printer

Hey Vid,

Someone was kind enough to mail me the two decals I needed. I am trying to scan them so I don't have to use them and I can mail them back to the person. I have tried all kinds of settings on my scanner to capture the white letters on white background. I turned contrast to 100%, down to 0%, adjusted Brightness, Gamma, etc. At best this is what I get.

Any suggestions?
decal (resized).png

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1

#8010 1 year ago

MIK

Miguel351

Pinside member

11y 81,400 4,567 3

You could try to get a piece of red or blue transparent material, like a spotlight gel/cell or something like that, that you can most likely find at a hobby store fairly easily and cheaply. Then, put that between the decals and scanner glass. When you scan it, the letters should show up a bit better as they're not as glossy as the backing paper. Then you can play with all the values to hopefully get them to stand out a bit better. A good idea to see if it'll work is to bring those decals in with you and test them out to see if you can see the difference between the white lettering and the backing paper. If so, the scanner will see it, too. If not, save your money.

Or...

Get on to IPDB and see of there are any really good pictures of those inserts and work from those. Or ask someone here who has that game for a really good straight on shot of said inserts.

0

#8011 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Try holding a flashlight behind the decals as you scan them

Try using the red "night vision" mode of the flashlight

0

#8012 1 year ago

IKE

DickHamill

Pinside+ Pro!

Topsham, ME

5y 68,550 722

I'm about to eyedropper sunken inserts on a 1980 playfield (Scorpion). Some inserts are loose and need to be re-glued--no problem. Other inserts feel secure, but there are gaps around the edges that might leak clear coat through. Any tips on sealing inserts so CC doesn't leak out? I'm guessing run epoxy around the back side rim with an acid brush? Or forcibly remove any sketchy ones and re-glue them completely?

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1

#8013 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from DickHamill:
I'm about to eyedropper sunken inserts on a 1980 playfield (Scorpion). Some inserts are loose and need to be re-glued--no problem. Other inserts feel secure, but there are gaps around the edges that might leak clear coat through. Any tips on sealing inserts so CC doesn't leak out? I'm guessing run epoxy around the back side rim with an acid brush? Or forcibly remove any sketchy ones and re-glue them completely?

You can brush some wood dust from your sander down those holes, then drip some Thin cyano glue after it (it comes in thin, medium and thick)

It might even let out a puff of smoke, that's normal.

a couple of fills and drips and it will be level

Screenshot 2022-06-29 at 13-01-20 FastCap 2P-10 Thin Cyanoacrylate Super Glue 2.25oz (resized).png

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1

#8014 1 year ago

IKE

DickHamill

Pinside+ Pro!

Topsham, ME

5y 68,550 722

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
You can brush some wood dust from your sander down those holes, then drip some Thin cyano glue after it (it comes in thin, medium and thick)
It might even let out a puff of smoke, that's normal.
a couple of fills and drips and it will be level[quoted image]

Thank you—I’ll do that.

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1

#8015 1 year ago

BSM

sethbenjamin

ReplayResto

Greenfield, MA

12y 84,050 1,447 8

So, has anybody found a *reliable* brand of Frisket masking, or an alternative product?
My luck with it has been WILDLY variable, and I haven't always been able to purchase the same brand.
I always order low-tack, but that's inconsistent. The latest batch is another of those that leaves sticky residue behind, which is impossible to remove without risking the very paint you just put down, and which you never find all of until you clear coat and it rears its ugly head and you have to just bury it in the next application.

I'm so damn sick of this, it makes doing that part of the restoration very shaky and needlessly so. I've had this problem with actual Frisket brand film as well as generics.

0

#8016 1 year ago

???

rdrapeau3171

Pinside+ Addict

North Port, FL

4y 30,050 187 5

Quoted from sethbenjamin:
So, has anybody found a *reliable* brand of Frisket masking, or an alternative product?

Seth,
I purchased this Frisket from TCP Global. I did not have any problems with it.

https://tcpglobal.com/products/kus-cmf1230?variant=31805034594368

They have different sizes. Hope this helps.

0

#8017 1 year ago

???

rdrapeau3171

Pinside+ Addict

North Port, FL

4y 30,050 187 5

Quoted from Miguel351:
You could try to get a piece of red or blue transparent material, like a spotlight gel/cell or something like that, that you can most likely find at a hobby store fairly easily and cheaply. Then, put that between the decals and scanner glass. When you scan it, the letters should show up a bit better as they're not as glossy as the backing paper. Then you can play with all the values to hopefully get them to stand out a bit better. A good idea to see if it'll work is to bring those decals in with you and test them out to see if you can see the difference between the white lettering and the backing paper. If so, the scanner will see it, too. If not, save your money.
Or...
Get on to IPDB and see of there are any really good pictures of those inserts and work from those. Or ask someone here who has that game for a really good straight on shot of said inserts.

Miguel,
That is a good idea. I will try that. Thank you.

Vid,
I will try the flashlight trick as well...

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1

#8018 1 year ago

BSM

sethbenjamin

ReplayResto

Greenfield, MA

12y 84,050 1,447 8

"Seth,
I purchased this Frisket from TCP Global. I did not have any problems with it."

Screen Shot 2022-06-29 at 8.39.52 PM (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

0

#8019 1 year ago

MRB

mark532011

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 82,800 1,716 7

I was talking about the difficulty in color matching to a friend of mine and he said he uses the Nix Sensor with great success. It scans the spot and generates a pantone to match. It might not get 100% of the way there but it might make getting close easier. Has anyone tried something like this?

https://www.nixsensor.com/

0

#8020 1 year ago

SMM

dr_nybble

Pinside+ Frequent

Ottawa, ON

10y 114K 3,538 15

I have a Nix, it is pretty good but not a slam dunk. I also have a Pantone coated guide and that is pretty helpful. Final puzzle piece is the Golden virtual paint mixer, assuming you use High Flow paints—which I recommend.

0

#8021 1 year ago

???

PinballBillinFL

Pinside+ Frequent

Fernandina Beach, FL

10y 27,650 81

Quoted from mark532011:
I was talking about the difficulty in color matching to a friend of mine and he said he uses the Nix Sensor with great success. It scans the spot and generates a pantone to match. It might not get 100% of the way there but it might make getting close easier. Has anyone tried something like this? /

Quoted from dr_nybble:
I have a Nix, it is pretty good but not a slam dunk. I also have a Pantone coated guide and that is pretty helpful. Final puzzle piece is the Golden virtual paint mixer, assuming you use High Flow paints—which I recommend.

I too have the Nix Mini, and have scanned all the different colors on my playfield in 4-5 different places, so I can average the RGB values. I've looked at the Golden virtual paint mixer, but I have to say - the colors that it comes up with look a lot different than what the playfield looks like. I know that between the Nix scan, the results the app displays on my phone, and the screen on the laptop the color values are likely to display different, but I haven't worked out in my mind how to resolve the differences. And I have to say, the ratios that the mixer come up with are not terribly intuitive. I really need to bite the bullet and pick up some of the paints, mix them and see how they match up. Too hot and humid here in FL to even consider at this point, given my un-airconditioned work environment.

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2

#8022 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
You can brush some wood dust from your sander down those holes, then drip some Thin cyano glue after it (it comes in thin, medium and thick)
It might even let out a puff of smoke, that's normal.
a couple of fills and drips and it will be level[quoted image]

Here would be a real life, high visibility, cyano repair.

I put a section of butcher block onto my CNC router and cut out the undermount sink.

It turns out there was a 1 inch void in the wood that was exposed after cutting it.

Filling it with black epoxy would immediately draw your eye to the repair (especially it containing a finger-joint)

I used the sawdust from the router and cyano glue

After two layers I scraped it flush with a single edge razor blade

Repair looks and feels great, and of course will not be affected by the oil you use on the butcher block.
IMG_20220701_124217__01.jpg

0

#8023 1 year ago

???

CryptKeeperAUS

Pinside member

Perth

5y 52,050 427 5

I recently applied a playfield overlay that has now been cleared locally with 3 coats.

Can feel the printed lettering sitting proud of the insert areas and small valleys were there is no overlay ink on inserts. The ink on the overlay medium probably sits a bit higher than the original playfield paint I'm assuming so very hesitant to wet sand this flat and risk hitting the overlay. The playfield was prepped properly and all inserts flat and flush prior, PF cleared and sanded before applying the overlay.

After an 800 grit prep, would I get away with just building up insert areas with 2k by syringe, then sanding down? The overlay is now nicely trapped between clear coats, just very nervous to sand this down too much and rather just build up over the inserts.
20220707_074638 (resized).jpg

0

#8024 1 year ago

BSM

sethbenjamin

ReplayResto

Greenfield, MA

12y 84,050 1,447 8

Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:
I recently applied a playfield overlay that has now been cleared locally with 3 coats.
Can feel the printed lettering sitting proud of the insert areas and small valleys were there is no overlay ink on inserts. The ink on the overlay medium probably sits a bit higher than the original playfield paint I'm assuming so very hesitant to wet sand this flat and risk hitting the overlay. The playfield was prepped properly and all inserts flat and flush prior, PF cleared and sanded before applying the overlay.
After an 800 grit prep, would I get away with just building up insert areas with 2k by syringe, then sanding down? The overlay is now nicely trapped between clear coats, just very nervous to sand this down too much and rather just build up over the inserts.
[quoted image]

I would probably just leave it alone at this point.

Droppered in 2PAC doesn’t sand out so easily, you’d have to spend a lot of time spot-sanding, which won’t make things flat *either.*
The clear is exaggerating the surface imperfections. In theory if there was enough coating, you would be able to level sand and get to flat before burning through, but that’s theory. You’d probably end up sanding out the lettering before hitting the low spots.

You could definitely diminish the exaggerations, maybe even get the high spots pretty flat, but I wouldn’t try for flat. A bit of sanding followed by buffing will cut the thickness some, which isn’t always a bad thing. And the thing is: the game will still play beautifully even if the surface has this amount of unevenness. Once it is reassembled and lights are lit and it’s under glass, it won’t matter any more that the surface has some unevenness. None of it will affect the ball’s path.

0

#8025 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Scuff it up for tooth and then drip fill

Then block sand and level out the field,

Then put your final coat of clear on

-

Like Seth says, you'd have a hard time getting the playfield level by dripping alone, so you will have to plan on additional coats

0

#8026 1 year ago

???

CryptKeeperAUS

Pinside member

Perth

5y 52,050 427 5

Understood. Thankyou both for the advice. Makes perfect sense I could leave it alone but the perfectionist in me won't let it go and I'll probably just look at those spots for years grumbling. So I'll give it a go. Cheers.

0

#8027 1 year ago

???

Flipper_McGavin

Pinside member

Sacramento, CA

5y 47,800 541

I doubt you have one, but you can probably use a high magnification jeweler's loupe to see if the clearcoat around the lettering is elevated above the black ink. Then you'd know for sure you can wet sand.

0

#8028 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

If you have a newer phone, put it in macro mode (usually a tulip icon), for 10x magnification

0

#8029 1 year ago

ZIT

Zitt

Pinball-Mods.com

Austin, TX

11y 112K 7,860 15 10

vid1900,
Just put what I think is my final clear coat on a new Playfield about a week and half ago. I've been setting it out in the sun regularly to accelerate the clearcoat cure; but admittedly haven't last few days because I've been lazy.
How long is "conventional" wisdom for allowing auto clear to cure? I've heard people throw out 3months; but that seems weird when you can sand the clear coat in 24hrs.

I used DuPont Nason 2part clearcoat.
I'm not really keen on waiting 3months to get this PF assembled.

I want to avoid those horror stories seen on JJP and Mirco PFs with pooling round the posts and what not.

John

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1

#8030 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

John, you can do "the finger nail test" and see if your clear is hard

The thicker the clear, the longer it takes to fully cure. I'm not familiar with Dupont Nason, but press your thumb nail into it and check

Ideally you wait as long as you can to put the game back into service, but I've done it in a few weeks and it was totally fine.

You'll never get the Mirrco pooling, because you are not using inks that can't bond with the clear.

0

#8031 1 year ago

MCM

torpedo2k

Pinside member

Cumming, GA

2y 26,550 76 3

vid1900 - Playfield Storage Recommendations?
Just received my new Mando Pro warranty playfield. Its unpopulated and with the naked eye I can tell it has a slight dip in the middle top. I have found a couple of posts talking about proper storage but its mostly speculation(?). Do you have any recommendations on proper storage? Should I attach the side rails?

Thanks

PXL_20220708_141637093 (resized).jpg

PXL_20220708_141708892 (resized).jpg

PXL_20220708_141835466 (resized).jpg

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2

#8032 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from torpedo2k:
vid1900 - Playfield Storage Recommendations?
Just received my new Mando Pro warranty playfield. Its unpopulated and with the naked eye I can tell it has a slight dip in the middle top. I have found a couple of posts talking about proper storage but its mostly speculation(?). Do you have any recommendations on proper storage? Should I attach the side rails?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yep, put some side rails on it and you'll be all set for storage

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1

#8033 1 year ago

ZIT

Zitt

Pinball-Mods.com

Austin, TX

11y 112K 7,860 15 10

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Dupont Nason

I went with this cheap tier because my normal clear was no longer sold in quart increments only gallon.
No way I could use a gallon of clear on this project.

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2

#8034 1 year ago

MSL

SantaEatsCheese

Pinside+ Pro!

Crofton, MD

5y 209K 9,619 6 85 1

Just picked up a beautiful Fathom in a trade with a beautiful original playfield protected by vintage aftermarket mylar. At some point in time someone overtightened posts so the mylar is pooling near them. Should I pull all the mylar and put down a playfield protector or could I get away with trimming around the posts with an xacto knife. Other suggestions?

20220710_080033 (resized).jpg

20220710_080040 (resized).jpg

20220710_080045 (resized).jpg

20220710_080050 (resized).jpg

20220710_080059 (resized).jpg

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2

#8035 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:
At some point in time someone overtightened posts so the mylar is pooling near them. Should I pull all the mylar and put down a playfield protector or could I get away with trimming around the posts with an xacto knife. Other suggestions?

Take those posts off and see what that peeling stuff is.

It looks much too thin to be any standard pinball mylar . It almost looks like someone put Varathane or other water-based clear over the playfield

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1

#8036 1 year ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,023

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:
Just picked up a beautiful Fathom in a trade with a beautiful original playfield protected by vintage aftermarket mylar.

It looks like cheap vinyl wrapping. Pooling around the posts is typical with that material.

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1

#8037 1 year ago

MSL

SantaEatsCheese

Pinside+ Pro!

Crofton, MD

5y 209K 9,619 6 85 1

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Take those posts off and see what that peeling stuff is.
It looks much too thin to be any standard pinball mylar . It almost looks like someone put Varathane or other water-based clear over the playfield

Quoted from Quench:
It looks like cheap vinyl wrapping. Pooling around the posts is typical with that material.

Here is the photo with the posts loosened. The material is over the entire machine... even under the slings. If I had to guess someone did a top side teardown of this 40 years ago and then put down a sheet of mylar. They then cut out holes for everything but am not sure. Not sure if should trim or pull

20220710_124450 (resized).jpg

20220710_124501 (resized).jpg

20220710_124548 (resized).jpg

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#8038 1 year ago

JAH

John_In_WI

Pinside member

12y 36,550 356

Looking for a set of excellent condition wooden side rails for a Joker Poker PF.

0

1

#8039 1 year ago

MSL

SantaEatsCheese

Pinside+ Pro!

Crofton, MD

5y 209K 9,619 6 85 1

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Take those posts off and see what that peeling stuff is.
It looks much too thin to be any standard pinball mylar . It almost looks like someone put Varathane or other water-based clear over the playfield

Quoted from Quench:
It looks like cheap vinyl wrapping. Pooling around the posts is typical with that material.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:
Here is the photo with the posts loosened. The material is over the entire machine... even under the slings. If I had to guess someone did a top side teardown of this 40 years ago and then put down a sheet of mylar. They then cut out holes for everything but am not sure. Not sure if should trim or pull [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was able to cut around one of the problem areas and pull the material up. It felt like Mylar 100%, but it appears to be vintage sheet mylar, not a purpose built playfield protector kit. I think I'm going to just remove it and put down a playfield protector as I'm not sure how think the clear is on this. I'm not a clear guy and playfield protectors feel awesome to me. The next owner can put down clear if they want. The inserts are not cupped. This already has new boards, a perfect backglass, a perfect playfield (minus the mylar), and new plastics. If I pull the mylar and put down a protector I can still play the crap out of it and bring it to shows. I'll still leave the mylar under the plastics as I don't want to do a full teardown to pull something I can't see. It's weird, but the adhesive on the mylar does not appear as strong as factor mylar on something like the WhiteWater I pulled. It also does not appear to be as thick as other mylar I've encountered.

I will take this one really slow as all the inserts are still pretty much perfect.

Thanks!

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1

#8040 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from John_In_WI:
Looking for a set of excellent condition wooden side rails for a Joker Poker PF.

Usually you just cut new ones yourself.

Do you have a father-in-law or neighbor with a table saw?

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#8041 1 year ago

XY

usafstars

Pinside+ Frequent

20y 71,050 348

vid1900 I've got a unpopulated playfield I like to hang on the wall as art. Will this warp over time, and if so...is there a way to keep it from doing that? Regards.

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1

#8042 1 year ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside+ Member

Sana'a

12y 164K 40,198 18

Quoted from usafstars:
vid1900 I've got a unpopulated playfield I like to hang on the wall as art. Will this warp over time, and if so...is there a way to keep it from doing that? Regards.

I'd put some rails on the back of the playfield, using the same screw holes as if you had put the rails properly on the face

0

#8043 1 year ago

ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,669 10 8

I've used Spraymax 2K with great success, but I want to try hvlp on my next playfield. What brand clear is everyone using these days?

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2

#8044 1 year ago

ZIT

Zitt

Pinball-Mods.com

Austin, TX

11y 112K 7,860 15 10

Having done clear with harbor freight hlvp gun on a pf. It's not hard... And kinda fun.

0

#8045 1 year ago

ACE

jazc4

Pinside member

Humble, TX

10y 90,050 1,669 10 8

Quoted from Zitt:
Having done clear with harbor freight hlvp gun on a pf. It's not hard... And kinda fun.

Thanks Zitt. I agree. I was surprised how easy and definitely fun it was with Spraymax. I'm sure hvlp will be also. I have all of the equipment. Which clear do you use when not using the lower tier clear?

0

#8046 1 year ago

CSO

Walamab

Pinside+ Frequent

8y 56,650 359

Quoted from John_In_WI:
Looking for a set of excellent condition wooden side rails for a Joker Poker PF.

You can get wood grain vinyl wrapped stock pieces to cut to size from pinballlife.com. I don't know if Joker Poker has notches cut out of its rails so these may not work.

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1

#8047 1 year ago

MRM

mrm_4

Pinside+ Frequent

6y 126K 6,204 11

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Do you have a father-in-law or neighbor with a table saw?

This is the best. I laughed pretty good at it and I don’t know why. Probably because my father in law is that perfect example.

0

#8048 1 year ago

???

joshmc

Pinside member

Gold Coast

3y 26,800 180

Hi All, I’ve recently acquired a couple of playfields in VERY ordinary shape. The Bobby Orr is particularly bad and I was thinking about attempting a ground up rebuild of this one but in order to do that I’ll require scans from someone who has a pristine playfield. Would appreciate any help I can get. I’ve done one PF restoration recently (Williams Big Deal) and that turned out quite well but these ones are in a different league. Starting with cleanin leg (Novus? naptha or Magic Eraser?), will then remove Mylar carefully (only on Pop Bumpers on CF), then clear coat then airbrush, 2 pac clear etc… Again, any advice and help would be appreciated.

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#8049 1 year ago

BSM

sethbenjamin

ReplayResto

Greenfield, MA

12y 84,050 1,447 8

This both look very salvageable to me.
Lots of work, but unless I’m missing something I think you could do a pretty solid job of it without any scans. Frisket and airbrush (if you can find good quality Frisket, that’s been a problem for me lately…)

0

#8050 1 year ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,504 31

Quoted from sethbenjamin:
This both look very salvageable to me.
Lots of work, but unless I’m missing something I think you could do a pretty solid job of it without any scans. Frisket and airbrush (if you can find good quality Frisket, that’s been a problem for me lately…)

More and more, people are direct printing these old playfields.

Intricate restorations are probably going out of style in favor of fast wearable surfaces that can be rapidly and cheaply re-inked.

Its not better, but faster and cheaper.

By vid1900

11 years ago

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