(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

9 years ago


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#7751 4 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

that is how would do keylines as well to answer your earlier question.

Keylines are too thin to create a stencil using a Cricut. I think waterslide decals are the way to go

#7752 4 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I just use waterslide decals around the inserts
You can use a circle template and cut using frisket to mask
You can have your wife cut you a bunch of circles on her Cricut
20000 ways to skin that cat

Would I look like less of a man if I told you that there is only person in this household who owns and knows how to operate a Cricut… and it’s not my wife

#7753 4 months ago
Quoted from joshmc:

Would I look like less of a man if I told you that there is only person in this household who owns and knows how to operate a Cricut… and it’s not my wife

I guess you can be both man and woman nowadays....or so they tell me j/k

A guy at my church has a vinyl cutter and his wife has a Cricut.

He told me the Cricut can do finer detail

His wife cut me out a bunch of small glow-orange letters for one job. I put a new usb port in her Samsung phone as a trade

#7754 4 months ago

So, assuming I’m an absolute buffoon when it comes to anything regarding playfield touch up, do I have any chance of saving this insert art or should I just leave well enough alone before they all end up looking like that old painting of Jesus that got restored into oblivion in Italy a while back?

Would like to shiny up the jewels above too, but that’s most likely waaaay above my pay grade.

88444E67-634C-4992-846F-9977B1F23E2C (resized).jpeg
#7755 4 months ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

So, assuming I’m an absolute buffoon when it comes to anything regarding playfield touch up, do I have any chance of saving this insert art or should I just leave well enough alone before they all end up looking like that old painting of Jesus that got restored into oblivion in Italy a while back?
Would like to shiny up the jewels above too, but that’s most likely waaaay above my pay grade.
[quoted image]

Honestly no chance; Just wax it and enjoy.

#7756 4 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

He told me the Cricut can do finer detail

Silhouette Cameo 4 Pro does fine detail nicely.

Resized_16409485624333985755979735916712_181891265570400 (resized).jpegResized_16409486153171559282874553681525_181930833329487 (resized).jpeg
#7757 4 months ago

You absolutely can cut perfect key line stencils in paint mask with a vinyl cutter. You need to use transfer tape to apply it properly.

Everything on this playfield was repainted using stencils:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bare-wood-em-playfield-repaint#post-5935113

#7758 4 months ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

So, assuming I’m an absolute buffoon when it comes to anything regarding playfield touch up, do I have any chance of saving this insert art or should I just leave well enough alone before they all end up looking like that old painting of Jesus that got restored into oblivion in Italy a while back?
Would like to shiny up the jewels above too, but that’s most likely waaaay above my pay grade.
[quoted image]

It's crazy hard to get the white, silkscreened ink to match the opacity of whatever new paint you lay down. So when it's lit from below, you see the repair.

If I was restoring that, I'd scan, then remove all the old ink from the insert and use white watersllide decals to replace the entire artwork over the insert in one piece.

Maybe someone here can hook you up with a scan, because you have a lot of detail artwork missing?

#7759 4 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

It's crazy hard to get the white, silkscreened ink to match the opacity of whatever new paint you lay down. So when it's lit from below, you see the repair.
If I was restoring that, I'd scan, then remove all the old ink from the insert and use white watersllide decals to replace the entire artwork over the insert in one piece.
Maybe someone here can hook you up with a scan, because you have a lot of detail artwork missing?

Nearest artwork is a deck of cards away..

#7760 4 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

You absolutely can cut perfect key line stencils in paint mask with a vinyl cutter. You need to use transfer tape to apply it properly.
Everything on this playfield was repainted using stencils:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bare-wood-em-playfield-repaint#post-5935113

I have a cameo and am well versed in Photoshop and Illustrator now. I did all the major artwork using vectors in Photoshop then imported into Cameo as SVG file. Keylines are very fine and I don’t imagine it would be easy to do this using vectors as opposed to decals. Thoughts? I also like Oramask. Worked better than Frisket, which seemed to leave a residue when removed. I still have imperfections on my playfield. Small divets and scratches which I’m not thrilled with. I don’t have the patience to sand back and start again. Also I didn’t use the createx clear product you mentioned. I used createx paints with the reducer/thinner and unfortunately I didn’t use an Iwata. Results would probably have been better with a decent airbrush and compressor. I found that I couldn’t use the createx paints straight out of the bottle without the thinner.

#7761 4 months ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

do I have any chance of saving this insert art

It can absolutely be done. The nice part about this is that you have specific edges to go to. That’s tremendously helpful.

First, scan the playfield once you have it torn down. You can fix a lot of stuff in pShop and AI even if you don’t have scans to work from.

I would remove the inserts completely, and sand the art off of them. Then re-glue them with epoxy; presumably some amount of movement of the inserts is to blame for the wear in the first place. While at this stage, get out the magic eraser and alcohol and work out those ball swirls, to the degree you are able.
Then, shoot your first layer of clear coat.

Sand out the clear. Use frisket masking and an airbrush to repaint the white on that ROYAL FLUSH banner. If it was me, I would probably do a second layer of airbrushing to restore the lettering using the silhouette cutter to make lettering stencils.

This next step is debatable, but I’d probably use frisket, cut out the white background of those cards, and spray a white layer down. Then, hit everything with the second coat of clear.

I would then proceed to do as Vid recommended - print white water slide decals for the card art and apply them. My thinking on doing a base layer of paint is that it will make for a more consistent look. White water slide decals aren’t super opaque, so you might see the transparent inserts behind the art even when it isn’t lit.
I agree with gdonovan - if you can’t find scans of the art work, just use a deck of cards and scale up the art to the print size you need. Purists will have a conniption fit at this suggestion, but honestly, they didn’t go with the nicest face card design anyway, and you could make a bit of an improvement there.

1 week later
#7762 4 months ago
Quoted from Insanity_Falls:

Do I have any chance of saving this insert art or should I just leave well enough alone before they all end up looking like that old painting of Jesus that got restored into oblivion in Italy a while back?
Would like to shiny up the jewels above too, but that’s most likely waaaay above my pay grade.
[quoted image]

I would remove the art up to the keylines , and repaint all the inner card area white with an airbrush. Clear coat the whole play field, wet sand with 600 grit , apply water slide decal created from scanning the figures from a deck of cards. You can either use clear or white decal depending of the opacity you want. Try both and see how it looks with light shining below the inserts before a final clear coat. The S and H letters can easily be added last . Have in mind that the white you use should be consistent with the dull white of the rest of the play field and present on the ribbon that has the ROYAL FLUSH lettering .

#7763 4 months ago

What about this area of a Mars God of War? It's the planet on the playfield, with 4 pop bumpers and the associated damage. You also have various dings/dents in this area, and heavy ball swirl (that I've cleaned up somewhat).

How should I approach masking/repainting this? I need to get a smooth finish through the large solid spaces, but also accurately get around the little varied planet details with the orange color.
PXL_20220112_223419016 (resized).jpg

#7764 4 months ago

Anyone have suggestions for building a spray booth/room? I'm building a 30x16' storage building on my property and I'm wanting to carve out some space to use for spraying.

What's the minimum clearance I should have around a cabinet? Any ideas for DIY ventilation? Hoping vid1900 has some ideas

#7765 4 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Anyone have suggestions for building a spray booth/room? I'm building a 30x16' storage building on my property and I'm wanting to carve out some space to use for spraying.
What's the minimum clearance I should have around a cabinet? Any ideas for DIY ventilation? Hoping vid1900 has some ideas

https://formufit.com/pages/pvc-spray-paint-booth?epik=dj0yJnU9bDd1Y0ZYSlZOZVoxc3BxWGVBLTU2NHF6SDFoWERKZUEmcD0wJm49ZWJNQ1VPbkpEd1BpN2RVTkp2YmkwZyZ0PUFBQUFBR0hmMUNN&utm_medium=social&utm_source=pinterest

#7766 4 months ago
Quoted from vipe155:

What about this area of a Mars God of War? It's the planet on the playfield, with 4 pop bumpers and the associated damage. You also have various dings/dents in this area, and heavy ball swirl (that I've cleaned up somewhat).
How should I approach masking/repainting this? I need to get a smooth finish through the large solid spaces, but also accurately get around the little varied planet details with the orange color.
[quoted image]

You could scan, paint the planet orange, then place a red decal over top

I would not worry about the details hidden under the pop skirts (if you did a conventional frisket)

Dents will fill in with clear usually

#7767 4 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Anyone have suggestions for building a spray booth/room? I'm building a 30x16' storage building on my property and I'm wanting to carve out some space to use for spraying.
What's the minimum clearance I should have around a cabinet? Any ideas for DIY ventilation? Hoping vid1900 has some ideas

Give lots of room, because you will have lots of air coming from your gun

Use 6mil plastic, and black pipe at the bottom, to hold it in place. Some ceiling bike hooks will let you roll the plastic up and out of the way

#7768 4 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Give lots of room, because you will have lots of air coming from your gun
Use 6mil plastic, and black pipe at the bottom, to hold it in place. Some ceiling bike hooks will let you roll the plastic up and out of the way

Perfect, thanks vid

#7769 4 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Perfect, thanks vid

On this topic, and with my plan of building a temporary booth in my garage…
What mask are you guys using when spraying clear?

#7770 4 months ago

Best would be a supplied air respirator. I am using 3M 6001 and goggles but I spray outside and it’s a once a year thing for me. But I am still thinking I should spring for a supplied air system.

#7771 4 months ago

Any tips for installing spiral fin screws for pop bumpers? They don't seem removable at all from the old pf, so I've ordered new ones. But neither old nor new have a driver slot. But I also think I'm not supposed to hammer anything into the new play field?

IMG_20220116_151027947 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220116-151335 (resized).png
#7772 4 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Best would be a supplied air respirator. I am using 3M 6001 and goggles but I spray outside and it’s a once a year thing for me. But I am still thinking I should spring for a supplied air system.

Thanks.
I recently played the Dracula you did, perfect job, great resto overall, I have the same standards as you do. I want to do this to an IJPA NOS pf I own.
I also followed your other thread recently when you did a lot of painting on a PF. Amazing work. I want to learn all these things.

When you say you spray outside, would you be able to give me more details as to what kind of setup you have. I want to keep it simple as possible.

If you are open to have a chat on the sidelines, I would be happy to pick your brain. I am also working on other pinball things, making williams boards and Pin2dmd screen, if any of this interest you I can share some knowledge with you.
Thanks

#7773 4 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Any tips for installing spiral fin screws for pop bumpers? They don't seem removable at all from the old pf, so I've ordered new ones. But neither old nor new have a driver slot. But I also think I'm not supposed to hammer anything into the new play field?[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, they are hammmered in-also old ones to be removed by hammering them out carefully

#7774 4 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Any tips for installing spiral fin screws for pop bumpers? They don't seem removable at all from the old pf, so I've ordered new ones. But neither old nor new have a driver slot. But I also think I'm not supposed to hammer anything into the new play field?[quoted image][quoted image]

Hammer time. Make sure you clearance the clear around the entry first with an oversized drill bit (in your hand, not a drill....). If the screw part doesn't go in smoothly.... drill out the hole a little bit. That type, not too much as they WILL pull through the playfield.

If you don't want to hammer, start them in, and use a nut on the other size to draw them in - put a fender washer or something on there so you don't pull into the PF though. You can also just use the pop bracket itself to do so.

#7775 4 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hammer time. Make sure you clearance the clear around the entry first with an oversized drill bit (in your hand, not a drill....). If the screw part doesn't go in smoothly.... drill out the hole a little bit. That type, not too much as they WILL pull through the playfield.
If you don't want to hammer, start them in, and use a nut on the other size to draw them in - put a fender washer or something on there so you don't pull into the PF though. You can also just use the pop bracket itself to do so.

Perfect, thanks! Similar technique as I used to install t-nuts, except in that case I used a bolt and washer.

#7776 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Thanks.
I recently played the Dracula you did, perfect job, great resto overall, I have the same standards as you do. I want to do this to an IJPA NOS pf I own.
I also followed your other thread recently when you did a lot of painting on a PF. Amazing work. I want to learn all these things.
When you say you spray outside, would you be able to give me more details as to what kind of setup you have. I want to keep it simple as possible.
If you are open to have a chat on the sidelines, I would be happy to pick your brain. I am also working on other pinball things, making williams boards and Pin2dmd screen, if any of this interest you I can share some knowledge with you.
Thanks

I have a spray tent from Amazon (ASIN B07HMZQ4M7), set it up in the backyard on a promising day and go at it, ensuring my neighbours are not out when I do it. Playfield levelled on a pair of sawhorses. It's not ideal but I don't even have a garage so I don't have much choice.

This is a hobby where you can indulge in such a variety of different disciplines. I learned kicad and recreated a BSD lamp board for that restore.

Glad you enjoyed playing the BSD I restored, poured my heart and soul into that! Thanks to vid1900, @HEP and others for inspiration and teaching.

#7777 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

On this topic, and with my plan of building a temporary booth in my garage…

My current thinking is build one wall out of pvc that holds the fans, and this will hang on loops in the ceiling. The other 3 walls will be a plastic sheet on a track, like a big curtain

amazon.com link »

That way when I’m not using it I just shove it into a corner

#7778 4 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Perfect, thanks! Similar technique as I used to install t-nuts, except in that case I used a bolt and washer.

Drawing pop bumper nails in from the start, with a nut is a little risky.

I have broken them off this way and drove them back out with a small drift.

It seems best to hammer them in as far as then will go, then draw the last 1/16" in with a nut and washer on the other side.

This of course after removing the clear out of the divot with a countersink running backwards (press lightly) and cleaning the hole with a drill bit running backwards. The hole should exactly fit the nail firmly with no slop.

Too big a hole and they can pull thru the playfield.

#7779 4 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Any tips for installing spiral fin screws for pop bumpers?

This must be one of the most over-analysed steps in all of playfield work.

I agree with pinballinreno, you don’t need to smack hell out of them.
In a restored playfield, the holes are already there, you just want to ream out the clear coat. I have never once worried about going further than just re-establishing the hole. No countersinking or slicing away the clear under the nail head. Just tap it in gently until you get to the spiral (I like spirals more than fins and replace fins if those were in the playfield originally, but that’s just me.) I use a lightweight rubber mallet and it is sufficient.

Then, go ahead and install your pop bumper bracket. This is a fine time to do it. Tighten down the screws gently, and watch the nail heads as you do this. You will see the heads seat themselves into the clear coat perfectly. When they are basically flush, stop. If it feels like it’s getting tight and the heads are a tiny bit proud of the surface, don’t worry about it. You’re done. Move on.

In a new playfield, if it isn’t pre-drilled, I start with a 3/32” bit, then do a bit of a countersink, and work my way up until the hole is the correct size. Sorry, I can’t remember which diameter that is, but basically whatever the diameter of the threads is, that’s what you’re after. (You can also do a test on a scrap of 1/2” plywood to establish that you’ve got it right. Go ahead and mount a coil bracket as a practice run.) Countersinking between bits slices the clear away from the hole, preventing the clear from lifting or crazing as you go to the next size. Honestly, it probably took longer to write all this out than it does to do it for real, lol.

Basically - this is not a difficult or scary step, it just needs to be approached in a controlled manner. It’s quite easy once you have a method figured out.

#7780 4 months ago

^ yep, drill out the clearcoat and tap them just slightly recessed with a nail-set

#7781 4 months ago

Quick question.
I filled sunken inserts on my flash 2 years ago with minwax polycrylic and then went ahead and sprayed whole playfield with several coats of same.

Looked great...3 months ago found it chipping up in pop bumper area. So bummed.

I'm depopulating top of playfield again and I'm gonna spraymax 2k it.

I'm gonna get any loose pieces of the old clear off. Should I scuff the whole playfield then naphtha then clear?

Thx for any advice

#7782 4 months ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

I filled sunken inserts on my flash 2 years ago with minwax polycrylic and then went ahead and sprayed whole playfield with several coats of same.
Looked great...3 months ago found it chipping up in pop bumper area. So bummed.
I'm depopulating top of playfield again and I'm gonna spraymax 2k it.
I'm gonna get any loose pieces of the old clear off. Should I scuff the whole playfield then naphtha then clear?

Polycrylic is crap (as you have found out).

Carefully look for any other chipping areas after you depopulate.

Pull out chips and try to feather in the damage. It does not have to be perfect as the 2K tends to fill in the low spots anyway

Scuff the entire playfield (and especially the shooterlane) with 320 grit

use a flashlight and make sure there are no shiny spots in the depressions.

#7783 4 months ago

Any advice for this?

Previous owner tried some kind of fix but not quite sure what is going on here. Dunno how to get this smooth again?

ECEEADE5-A448-4C9F-8307-C69E9584C54E.jpeg

#7784 4 months ago

What’s best to fill deep chunky holes? Kwikwood? I searched around and there is tons of conflicting info... it must be in this thread somewhere.

2BD5F8D0-C795-4E6B-8E8A-C8CC5FF0373B.jpeg

#7785 4 months ago
Quoted from radium:

What’s best to fill deep chunky holes? Kwikwood? I searched around and there is tons of conflicting info... it must be in this thread somewhere.
[quoted image]

Fiberglass resin

Don't overfill, as it is very hard to sand once fully hardened

#7786 4 months ago
Quoted from radium:

Any advice for this?
Previous owner tried some kind of fix but not quite sure what is going on here. Dunno how to get this smooth again?
[quoted image]

Yikes

I'd cut it back to the keyline with xacto, then scrape off old clear

If you want it frosty, inlay thin ricepaper; if you don't care , then just drip in 2pac and re-decal

#7787 3 months ago

So here is a problem I have had repeatedly.
After laying down frisket and doing my Xacto work, when I peel back the Frisket, it pulls up the clear coat with it! It’s happened a few times over the years, usually, like this, only in a small spot. I have successfully painted over these issues in the past (rather than de-spraying and re-sanding the whole playfield over it), but it is irritating and slightly worrying.

- I use low-tack Frisket
- I use adhesion promoter before shooting initial clear coat

Do others have this issue? It’s super annoying.

CB530439-FAD2-4B31-98C9-33D8D8CF8FC1 (resized).jpegCFC11C08-763B-45CB-865D-4F631E5C3CB6 (resized).jpeg
#7788 3 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

So here is a problem I have had repeatedly.
After laying down frisket and doing my Xacto work, when I peel back the Frisket, it pulls up the clear coat with it! It’s happened a few times over the years, usually, like this, only in a small spot. I have successfully painted over these issues in the past (rather than de-spraying and re-sanding the whole playfield over it), but it is irritating and slightly worrying.
- I use low-tack Frisket
- I use adhesion promoter before shooting initial clear coat
Do others have this issue? It’s super annoying.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I am no expert but I can see dirt around the posts on that pf, so could it be perhaps that even though you have used adhesion promoter you did not prep the surface well enough? not enough sanding?

#7789 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I am no expert but I can see dirt around the posts on that pf, so could it be perhaps that even though you have used adhesion promoter you did not prep the surface well enough? not enough sanding?

I suspect the playfield wasn't sanded with the proper grit.

#7790 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I suspect the playfield wasn't sanded with the proper grit.

What grit are you personally using to sand a playfield before clearcoating? I use a magic eraser.

#7791 3 months ago

I don’t see how you sand a playfield that’s 41 years old, where the paint is barely hanging on to begin with.

I clean everything as best I can and try to get rid of the topcoat with ME and alcohol. LOTS of prep time. I don’t go after every speck of ground in dirt from where stuff was screwed down if scouring it out seems like it will get down to the level of the adjacent art I’m trying to preserve.

When the playfield is cleared and I’ve dropped in around the inserts, the whole thing gets level sanded with 500 grit on the random orbit with a hard pad.

#7792 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

What grit are you personally using to sand a playfield before clearcoating? I use a magic eraser.

600 to 800.

Clear needs something to bite into.

#7793 3 months ago

How thick can you spot-clear? I have an insert that is bowed upward where the center of the insert is level with the playfield and the edges are gapped maybe 1/16" at the most. I will fill the insert heavy with Spraymax 2K clear when i clear the entire playfield, right now it just has water in it to see how it leveled itself.
Untitled (resized).jpg

#7794 3 months ago
Quoted from radium:

What’s best to fill deep chunky

How thick can you spot-clear? I have an insert that is bowed upward where the center of the insert is level with the playfield and the edges are gapped maybe 1/16" at the most. I will fill the insert heavy with Spraymax 2K clear when i clear the entire playfield, right now it just has water in it to see how it leveled itself.
[quoted image]

If the edges are high, I would tap the insert down until the highest part is flush with the surface , even if it means creating a low spot in the middle.

#7795 3 months ago

Yup, already leveled the insert so that the highest point is level with the playfield. The center of the insert ("W" in Willie's) is the high point. The edges are gapped downward maybe 1/16" from the playfield. I think the Spraymax should fill it pretty good, I'll just shoot the aerosol into that spot for like 5 seconds straight, and then further fill it in after it dries.

#7796 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

How thick can you spot-clear? I have an insert that is bowed upward where the center of the insert is level with the playfield and the edges are gapped maybe 1/16" at the most. I will fill the insert heavy with Spraymax 2K clear when i clear the entire playfield, right now it just has water in it to see how it leveled itself.
[quoted image]

Careful with water. If it can touch bare wood it might cause movement you don’t want. Maybe use naptha instead

#7797 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yup, already leveled the insert so that the highest point is level with the playfield. The center of the insert ("W" in Willie's) is the high point. The edges are gapped downward maybe 1/16" from the playfield. I think the Spraymax should fill it pretty good, I'll just shoot the aerosol into that spot for like 5 seconds straight, and then further fill it in after it dries.

You can spray it into a cup and then syringe it in. I level inserts first before clearing the whole pf

#7798 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yup, already leveled the insert so that the highest point is level with the playfield. The center of the insert ("W" in Willie's) is the high point. The edges are gapped downward maybe 1/16" from the playfield. I think the Spraymax should fill it pretty good, I'll just shoot the aerosol into that spot for like 5 seconds straight, and then further fill it in after it dries.

Spraying into a mixing cup is the preferred method (get small 4 or 6 oz disposable ones at the auto paint store) , then apply to the area with a disposable pipette.

There will be bubbles in the cup, let it sit 5 mins or so before applying.

If you see bubbles anywhere after splooging onto the playfield, poke them with the end of the pipette or a naptha cleaned needle.

#7799 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Spraying into a mixing cup is the preferred method (get small 4 or 6 oz disposable ones at the auto paint store) , then apply to the area with a disposable pipette.
There will be bubbles in the cup, let it sit 5 mins or so before applying.
If you see bubbles anywhere after splooging onto the playfield, poke them with the end of the pipette or a naptha cleaned needle.

I remember spraying Spraymax 2K into a cup to try and drip onto inserts. I got a lot of bubbles in the cup that weren't going away even after stirring for a couple minutes, and when I dripped it onto the insert it still had hundreds of tiny bubbles so I sanded it off. It was a plastic cup that the clear was slowly eating through so maybe the reaction is what was causing bubbles.

I bought glass bottles and glass pipettes to maybe try the drip method again. I read before that aerosol clearcoats require a lot of stirring to allow outgassing and remove bubbles, maybe I didn't wait the 5 minutes before using.

#7800 3 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I remember spraying Spraymax 2K into a cup to try and drip onto inserts. I got a lot of bubbles in the cup that weren't going away even after stirring for a couple minutes, and when I dripped it onto the insert it still had hundreds of tiny bubbles so I sanded it off. It was a plastic cup that the clear was slowly eating through so maybe the reaction is what was causing bubbles.
I bought glass bottles and glass pipettes to maybe try the drip method again. I read before that aerosol clearcoats require a lot of stirring to allow outgassing and remove bubbles, maybe I didn't wait the 5 minutes before using.

Glass isnt necessary, automotive disposable mixing cups and pipettes work really well.

I have sprayed into a mixing cup with good results by spraying a bit slower (fast dribbling?) to not agitate the fluid too much before starting a spraying session.

I have also got a few bubbles, but they go away for the most part or can be popped with a clean needle or toothpick and spraying over them.

The only other way is to buy some omni-clear and hardener in the can and pipette it in from a mixed cup.

Over all the bubbles are a nuisance but can be dealt with with some thought and care.

Dry bubbles can be drilled out with an exacto knife tip before spraying and filled while spraying and a toothpick or needle if they dont sand out.

The idea is to get the filler coats down while paying attention to the insert edges and bubbles.

Then put down heavy coats to straighten it all out later on.

Each successive coat will fill more and more.

Generally I can get it done in 3 or 4 coats after the mist coat.

Some times a 5th coat is needed if there are defects like missed bubbles or an insert edge.

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