(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by pinballinreno
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#7701 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Nope, is there a reason we should? Is it better that createx?

I have no idea. I personally haven't been impressed with createx paints when I've used them. I was planning on using some artist quality acrylic in my touchups instead and came upon these inks. I have used one for something already...I used a green Liquitex ink and a fine point to draw on the tiny "pebble" shapes on the lower playfield of my Haunted House. Couldn't think of a good way to do that with paint.

I was just wondering since the playfields are silkscreened ink, and you want touch ups to be as flat as possible, if highly concentrated acrylic ink would work well. I also hate trying to get the right paint consistency for airbrush work and thought these would be easier.

#7703 2 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Has anyone tried using acrylic inks for touch up painting? Like Liquitex or Amsterdam? They seem to have a lot of color choices, and I would think they would be easy to mix and fairly ready for airbrushing out of the bottle. Maybe go on thinner than paint as well?
https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/?range=acrylic-ink

Only one way to find out.

#7704 2 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

I was just wondering since the playfields are silkscreened ink, and you want touch ups to be as flat as possible, if highly concentrated acrylic ink would work well. I also hate trying to get the right paint consistency for airbrush work and thought these would be easier.

This is a very interesting idea. These should spray beautifully, no? Do they clean up with water? Alcohol?
The idea of being able to do spot touch ups in a way that is thin and doesn’t Telegraph through the clear as badly has a LOT of appeal.

#7705 2 years ago

I find that a lot of small touch ups require building up to the level of the surrounding paint. In these cases, thicker is better.

#7706 2 years ago

I have a large accumulation of clear in the inside recess of my rollover inserts. Any thoughts on the safest way to remove it without damaging the insert?

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#7707 2 years ago

I would try a forsner bit of the correct size and spin it by hand.
Or, a small chiesel straight up and down. Drag it around in there. I suspect it will just break off.

#7708 2 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I have a large accumulation of clear in the inside recess of my rollover inserts. Any thoughts on the safest way to remove it without damaging the insert?[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd try a sharpie around the perimeter and then peel the clear out

#7709 2 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

I'd try a sharpie around the perimeter and then peel the clear out

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

#7710 2 years ago

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?

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#7711 2 years ago

For doing frisketed work, that'll do fine. Any cheap airbrush will likely do fine, since most of the work is done by the frisket. It's when you get to hand airbrushing details where you want/need a GOOD airbrush. You may never get to that point.

If you can find a Canadian version of the HF quick change kit, that would be best. Its just a blaster of an airbrush, but you can change between colors without having to throughly clean the brush out.

Jeff

#7712 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

Either / or would work

Quoted from pinballinreno:

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

Yep sorry I got autocorrected by my smart phone....

#7713 2 years ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

Dont cheap out on a airbrush. Cheap plastic airbrushes break or dont atomize the paint correctly and usually dont handle solvent based paint. Look on kijiji or spend the money and buy a good gravity feed iwata. That thing will give you nothing but greif.

#7714 2 years ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Dont cheap out on a airbrush. Cheap plastic airbrushes break or dont atomize the paint correctly and usually dont handle solvent based paint. Look on kijiji or spend the money and buy a good gravity feed iwata. That thing will give you nothing but greif.

agreed, buy once, cry once... I hate cheap tools, spend $200 on Iwata and enjoy the job rather than hating it.

#7715 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

agreed, buy once, cry once... I hate cheap tools, spend $200 on Iwata and enjoy the job rather than hating it.

Iwata impact make an excellent job !

#7716 2 years ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

I recently purchased this one but have not used it yet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BAYNO

It is not an Iwata but it seems to be rated fairly decently. Gravity fed and dual action. For the amount of airbrushing I am going to do, I figured for the money I will try this one first. If it stinks I'll clean my playfield of the bad paint job and I'll buy a better one.

#7717 2 years ago

I have had good luck with badger air brushes.
I am on my second one.
I used the snot out of the first one and was so pleased i bought another one.

#7718 2 years ago

All the feedback is greatly appreciated… thx!

#7719 2 years ago

Hi Everyone,

I managed to find a local legend who clear coated my entire playfield. My next move is to do the artwork (airbrush) before doing one more (final) clearcoat. I have a small issue with just one or two of the inserts: they are slightly raised. I've run a ball over them and it doesnt seem to be an issue. Would it be worth sanding back the raised edges? If so, how do you suggest I go about doing that? I'm assuming I would have to do this before airbrushing the artwork? Thanks for the input!

Josh

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#7720 2 years ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

Yeah I'm in Canada as well and bought that exact same airbrush from Princessauto. Works ok with stencils etc but I found its hit and miss with consistency in spraying. Its single trigger so once you press the button the paint shoots and there is no control with the spray to air volume on the button. So you'll have to press the button away from the artwork and feed it in.

I ended up going on Amazon.ca and found a $25.00 dual action airbrush with gravity feed. There are tons of them on AliExpress and Banggood as well. Think you can buy a whole kit with small compressor and multiple needles for under $100.

#7721 2 years ago
Quoted from joshmc:

. I have a small issue with just one or two of the inserts: they are slightly raised. I've run a ball over them and it doesnt seem to be an issue. Would it be worth sanding back the raised edges? If so, how do you suggest I go about doing that? I'm assuming I would have to do this before airbrushing the artwork?

If the inserts are not proud enough to divert the ball, then don't worry about it. Point those two spots out to your clear coater, and he will flood the area with a little extra clear when he does your topcoat.

If they did divert the ball, then you'd scrape them flush with a single edge razor blade, and continue your restoration.

-

Also, you should put the rails on the back of the playfield whenever you spray the clear. That will get them out of the way yet still keep the playfield from cupping.

Run a razor blade along the seam to cut the fresh clear, and carefully separate them from the face of the playfield

-

You also need to stop by the clear coater, and get 4 oz of clear + hardener. You need this to drip-fill the valley around each insert, before you install the black key line decals

#7722 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If the inserts are not proud enough to divert the ball, then don't worry about it. Point those two spots out to your clear coater, and he will flood the area with a little extra clear when he does your topcoat.
If they did divert the ball, then you'd scrape them flush with a single edge razor blade, and continue your restoration.
-
Also, you should put the rails on the back of the playfield whenever you spray the clear. That will get them out of the way yet still keep the playfield from cupping.
Run a razor blade along the seam to cut the fresh clear, and carefully separate them from the face of the playfield
-
You also need to stop by the clear coater, and get 4 oz of clear + hardener. You need this to drip-fill the valley around each insert, before you install the black key line decals

Thanks Vid. Really appreciate your feedback here. Just a few (hopefully) quick questions:
1. What "rails on the back of the playfield" are you referring to? (stupid question, sorry)
2. I've used 600 grit to level some of the inserts that were raised slightly. I probably went a little too hard because now I've removed some of the paint (and a tiny bit of wood) around the insert itself (see pics)
3. Not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but the inserts now appear to be scratched up a little from the sanding. Just hoping these are scratches that can be 'buffed out' with something like Novus 2?? I noticed the inserts came up really nice and shiny after the clearcoat. Hoping what I have done here hasnt caused the dreaded "ghosting"
4. When I cut out the bits of frisket on the playfield, the clear was lifting off with it as well. Moving forward I made sure that I wasnt cutting in too deep and that seems to help. The areas where the clear lifted off, is that going to be much of an issue when it comes to applying the Createx paint?
5. The frisket itself is quite sticky underneath. When I peel it off the areas where I want to paint, it leaves a sticky residue that I need to clean off with Naptha or Methylated Spirits. This makes me concerned that when I have to apply a stencil over a painted area, it's going to lift the paint, unless I clearcoat before doing that (see last picture, plan was to do the yellow, wait for it to dry then do the orange using a stencil made from frisket)
playfield 1 (resized).jpgplayfield 1 (resized).jpgplayfield 2 (resized).jpgplayfield 2 (resized).jpgplayfield 3 (resized).jpgplayfield 3 (resized).jpg

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1 week later
#7724 2 years ago

I’m in the process of a slight restoration and clearcoat of a Revenge From Mars.
Removing the mylar went perfectly except one insert where the art completely pulled away from the playfield. I saved the insert art (it pulled from the playfield, but didn’t stick to the mylar!) even though it’s in 3 pieces now.

What should I do? Reattach it, or is it water slide time? If I reattach it, what do I use?
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#7725 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I’m in the process of a slight restoration and clearcoat of a Revenge From Mars.
Removing the mylar went perfectly except one insert where the art completely pulled away from the playfield. I saved the insert art (it pulled from the playfield, but didn’t stick to the mylar!) even though it’s in 3 pieces now.
What should I do? Reattach it, or is it water slide time? If I reattach it, what do I use?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks there are missing parts from the insert art , so decal would be the solution here. But you will need to sandwich 2 or 3 decals to prevent the light underneath to shine through the art. You could also try to use a few drops of clear coat as an adhesive if you need to reattach the broken insert art .

#7726 2 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Looks there are missing parts from the insert art , so decal would be the solution here. But you will need to sandwich 2 or 3 decals to prevent the light underneath to shine through the art. You could also try to use a few drops of clear coat as an adhesive if you need to reattach the broken insert art .

Did not know sandwiching decals was a thing. Can the insert just be painted from the back instead if one single decal is used?

1 week later
#7727 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Did not know sandwiching decals was a thing. Can the insert just be painted from the back instead if one single decal is used?

It isn’t that big a deal. Putting decals on top of one another is a finesse thing but it can be done.

The bigger problem here is the white detail.

There are 2 ways that I know of to tackle this. First way is to print the decal on WHITE water slide decal paper. A Silhouette or Crickut vinyl cutter will cut the lettering just the way you need after printing. Alternately, you could try to cut it with an Xacto knife, but it’ll be hard to get a decent result that way. I’d probably try that first, with the caveat that, unless you are using a photographic inkjet printer, it’s going to be hard to get true, deep black.

Second way is to make a white layer stencil on the vinyl cutter and airbrush the white outline, then make a black layer stencil to airbrush the black lettering. (This is one of the reasons pin restoration is really expensive.)

I am going to be investing in a photographic inkjet printer in the next month. If you get stuck on this, drop me a line and I’ll see if I can help.

#7728 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I’m in the process of a slight restoration and clearcoat of a Revenge From Mars.
Removing the mylar went perfectly except one insert where the art completely pulled away from the playfield. I saved the insert art (it pulled from the playfield, but didn’t stick to the mylar!) even though it’s in 3 pieces now.
What should I do? Reattach it, or is it water slide time? If I reattach it, what do I use?
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can reattach it

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-551833

#7729 2 years ago

Easy question. Where can I buy CP100?

#7730 2 years ago

Let's not forget the power of magic eraser. I really thought this one was going to turn out terrible, but after many hours with magic eraser and some minor acrylic touch-ups and clear this classic is going to be a beauty!!

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#7731 2 years ago

Where everyone buy their 2PAC?

#7732 2 years ago

I understand painting whole color areas to avoid a noticeable touch up, but what about large sections that can't really be done? I have a playfield with an overall black space background, with lots of little white "stars" and other detail. It would be like repainting the whole playfield to do all the black.

I've matched up the color really well, and gotten the sheen close, but it's still noticeable from different angles if I spot touch up damage.

#7733 2 years ago

Got a pic?

#7734 2 years ago

FYI, this 20 gallon compressor is on sale for $200 at certain tractor supply locations. You might have to use the "search nearby" link to find it. I've been looking for a suitable used one in my area for years and finally gave up and settled for this.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/stealth-20-gal-quiet-air-compressor-saq-12018-1462446

#7735 2 years ago

I’ve been scouring this thread for advice that I could apply to repairing a few playfield chips in my routed TNA, but it seems like most of the advice here applies to older games that need significant repainting.

In my case, the game has two minor chips that are barely past the keyline; one around the pop bumper, and one behind a drop target.

My concern is that the printing quality of the playfield is too low for a seamless touch up to be done. I’ve included a photo where you can see the speckling in the purple paint, but this effect is present everywhere. I’m mainly concerned about preventing further damage, but it would be ideal to hide these imperfections as much as possible as well.

Can anyone offer some advice on what type of repair makes sense here, or point me towards anything in the thread that I’ve missed?

Thank you!

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#7736 2 years ago

Looks like you could just paint the black and cover with some mylar to me.
If its an early TNA those things has some horrible PF quality

#7737 2 years ago
Quoted from Zalandrys:

In my case, the game has two minor chips that are barely past the keyline; one around the pop bumper, and one behind a drop target.
My concern is that the printing quality of the playfield is too low for a seamless touch up to be done. I’ve included a photo where you can see the speckling in the purple paint, but this effect is present everywhere. I’m mainly concerned about preventing further damage, but it would be ideal to hide these imperfections as much as possible as well.

You can always make the keyline slightly larger, so you don't have to try to match an odd color .

#7738 2 years ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

Easy question. Where can I buy CP100?

CP100 is 98% Naphtha and 1% Paint Stripper

Just get a gallon a Naphtha and save yourself mega money

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#7739 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Where everyone buy their 2PAC?

Put united kingdom into the search box

https://www.ppgpaints.com/store-locator

#7740 2 years ago
Quoted from vipe155:

I understand painting whole color areas to avoid a noticeable touch up, but what about large sections that can't really be done? I have a playfield with an overall black space background, with lots of little white "stars" and other detail. It would be like repainting the whole playfield to do all the black.
I've matched up the color really well, and gotten the sheen close, but it's still noticeable from different angles if I spot touch up damage.

Once you clear coat over your repairs, they will all have the same sheen

#7741 2 years ago

Thank you very much for the input. From what I understand from previous posts, it's not recommended to touch up the damaged location exclusively, but rather to repaint a larger area to avoid obvious color mismatch. Does that sentiment hold true for black, like in these keylines? This would be my first time doing playfield repairs and I'm hesitant that I would do more harm than good.

In addition, how would you handle clear coat for a smaller touch up? Would this still require a full new coat of clear over the entire playfield to ensure a seamless match?

I appreciate you sharing your expertise!

#7742 2 years ago
Quoted from Zalandrys:

In addition, how would you handle clear coat for a smaller touch up? Would this still require a full new coat of clear over the entire playfield to ensure a seamless match?

Since that whole playfield looks flaky, I'd put a protective clear coat over the entire thing.

1 week later
#7743 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Once you clear coat over your repairs, they will all have the same sheen

I'm actually planning on going full length mylar. It's a MGOW, and I bought a pretty good playfield for it. Just some pop bumper wear, and typical drop target/ball drop area wear. Touching up small black color (space background) chips has been difficult to get right though.

I was going to try clearing it, but don't want to get into the risk and difficulty. It's too expensive for me to ship the playfield off and pay $400+ to have it cleared.

#7744 2 years ago

Finished artwork. Now for the clear and decals

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#7745 2 years ago

I’m really struggling with keylines at the moment. Does anyone have a good technique for doing these? I feel like they should be airbrushed

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#7746 2 years ago

I’m doing decals on my Around the World playfield. I had to choose a different color for the red and purple numbers (10-50). Originally the numbers were white since that is difficult with water slides I decided on a light blue. When I installed the 50 and 40 on the red side the light blue numbers are almost black. I placed an uninstalled decal on the number 30 for reference. I used the decal setting solution if that matters. Any idea what I should do?

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#7747 2 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I’m doing decals on my Around the World playfield. I had to choose a different color for the red and purple numbers (10-50). Originally the numbers were white since that is difficult with water slides I decided on a light blue. When I installed the 50 and 40 on the red side the light blue numbers are almost black. I placed an uninstalled decal on the number 30 for reference. I used the decal setting solution if that matters. Any idea what I should do?
[quoted image]

Personally, I would use a vinyl cutting machine. Scan and import the images or whatever you want to reproduce into Photoshop. Then use the pen tool to create a vector. Then print on the vinyl cutter and effectively what you then have is a stencil you can airbrush onto the insert. Have a look at the above pictures of the playfield I just did. I used that exact method. Alternately, scan the images and send them to me. I’d be happy to do it. You’ll just need to pay for postage.

#7748 2 years ago
Quoted from joshmc:

Personally, I would use a vinyl cutting machine. Scan and import the images or whatever you want to reproduce into Photoshop. Then use the pen tool to create a vector. Then print on the vinyl cutter and effectively what you then have is a stencil you can airbrush onto the insert. Have a look at the above pictures of the playfield I just did. I used that exact method. Alternately, scan the images and send them to me. I’d be happy to do it. You’ll just need to pay for postage.

that is how would do keylines as well to answer your earlier question.

#7749 2 years ago
Quoted from joshmc:

I’m really struggling with keylines at the moment. Does anyone have a good technique for doing these? I feel like they should be airbrushed
[quoted image]

I just use waterslide decals around the inserts

You can use a circle template and cut using frisket to mask

You can have your wife cut you a bunch of circles on her Cricut

20000 ways to skin that cat

#7750 2 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

When I installed the 50 and 40 on the red side the light blue numbers are almost black. I placed an uninstalled decal on the number 30 for reference. I used the decal setting solution if that matters. Any idea what I should do?

paint white outline under where the blue ink will go. That's what the original had

Or print the blue letters on white decal paper - then cut them out and lay then into the red field

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