(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

8 years ago


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  • 720 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by harig
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143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7,723 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 155.
#7701 22 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Nope, is there a reason we should? Is it better that createx?

I have no idea. I personally haven't been impressed with createx paints when I've used them. I was planning on using some artist quality acrylic in my touchups instead and came upon these inks. I have used one for something already...I used a green Liquitex ink and a fine point to draw on the tiny "pebble" shapes on the lower playfield of my Haunted House. Couldn't think of a good way to do that with paint.

I was just wondering since the playfields are silkscreened ink, and you want touch ups to be as flat as possible, if highly concentrated acrylic ink would work well. I also hate trying to get the right paint consistency for airbrush work and thought these would be easier.

#7702 22 days ago

Interesting.

#7703 20 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

Has anyone tried using acrylic inks for touch up painting? Like Liquitex or Amsterdam? They seem to have a lot of color choices, and I would think they would be easy to mix and fairly ready for airbrushing out of the bottle. Maybe go on thinner than paint as well?
https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/?range=acrylic-ink

Only one way to find out.

#7704 19 days ago
Quoted from vipe155:

I was just wondering since the playfields are silkscreened ink, and you want touch ups to be as flat as possible, if highly concentrated acrylic ink would work well. I also hate trying to get the right paint consistency for airbrush work and thought these would be easier.

This is a very interesting idea. These should spray beautifully, no? Do they clean up with water? Alcohol?
The idea of being able to do spot touch ups in a way that is thin and doesn’t Telegraph through the clear as badly has a LOT of appeal.

#7705 18 days ago

I find that a lot of small touch ups require building up to the level of the surrounding paint. In these cases, thicker is better.

#7706 14 days ago

I have a large accumulation of clear in the inside recess of my rollover inserts. Any thoughts on the safest way to remove it without damaging the insert?

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#7707 13 days ago

I would try a forsner bit of the correct size and spin it by hand.
Or, a small chiesel straight up and down. Drag it around in there. I suspect it will just break off.

#7708 13 days ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I have a large accumulation of clear in the inside recess of my rollover inserts. Any thoughts on the safest way to remove it without damaging the insert?[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd try a sharpie around the perimeter and then peel the clear out

#7709 13 days ago
Quoted from bbriese:

I'd try a sharpie around the perimeter and then peel the clear out

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

#7710 12 days ago

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?

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#7711 12 days ago

For doing frisketed work, that'll do fine. Any cheap airbrush will likely do fine, since most of the work is done by the frisket. It's when you get to hand airbrushing details where you want/need a GOOD airbrush. You may never get to that point.

If you can find a Canadian version of the HF quick change kit, that would be best. Its just a blaster of an airbrush, but you can change between colors without having to throughly clean the brush out.

Jeff

#7712 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

Either / or would work

Quoted from pinballinreno:

You mean and exacto knife or scalpel.

Yep sorry I got autocorrected by my smart phone....

#7713 11 days ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

Dont cheap out on a airbrush. Cheap plastic airbrushes break or dont atomize the paint correctly and usually dont handle solvent based paint. Look on kijiji or spend the money and buy a good gravity feed iwata. That thing will give you nothing but greif.

#7714 11 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Dont cheap out on a airbrush. Cheap plastic airbrushes break or dont atomize the paint correctly and usually dont handle solvent based paint. Look on kijiji or spend the money and buy a good gravity feed iwata. That thing will give you nothing but greif.

agreed, buy once, cry once... I hate cheap tools, spend $200 on Iwata and enjoy the job rather than hating it.

#7715 11 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

agreed, buy once, cry once... I hate cheap tools, spend $200 on Iwata and enjoy the job rather than hating it.

Iwata impact make an excellent job !

#7716 10 days ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

I recently purchased this one but have not used it yet:

amazon.com link »

It is not an Iwata but it seems to be rated fairly decently. Gravity fed and dual action. For the amount of airbrushing I am going to do, I figured for the money I will try this one first. If it stinks I'll clean my playfield of the bad paint job and I'll buy a better one.

#7717 10 days ago

I have had good luck with badger air brushes.
I am on my second one.
I used the snot out of the first one and was so pleased i bought another one.

#7718 9 days ago

All the feedback is greatly appreciated… thx!

#7719 6 days ago

Hi Everyone,

I managed to find a local legend who clear coated my entire playfield. My next move is to do the artwork (airbrush) before doing one more (final) clearcoat. I have a small issue with just one or two of the inserts: they are slightly raised. I've run a ball over them and it doesnt seem to be an issue. Would it be worth sanding back the raised edges? If so, how do you suggest I go about doing that? I'm assuming I would have to do this before airbrushing the artwork? Thanks for the input!

Josh

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#7720 6 days ago
Quoted from LJ666:

This is a great thread! I’m located in Canada and having trouble finding a low cost airbrush like the Harbor Freight one recommend that I can start with. Looks like HF doesn’t ship to Canada. Would this one from Princess Auto work? https://www.princessauto.com/airbrush-kit/product/PA0008574428
Or any other recos I can find here in Canada?
[quoted image]

Yeah I'm in Canada as well and bought that exact same airbrush from Princessauto. Works ok with stencils etc but I found its hit and miss with consistency in spraying. Its single trigger so once you press the button the paint shoots and there is no control with the spray to air volume on the button. So you'll have to press the button away from the artwork and feed it in.

I ended up going on Amazon.ca and found a $25.00 dual action airbrush with gravity feed. There are tons of them on AliExpress and Banggood as well. Think you can buy a whole kit with small compressor and multiple needles for under $100.

#7721 5 days ago
Quoted from joshmc:

. I have a small issue with just one or two of the inserts: they are slightly raised. I've run a ball over them and it doesnt seem to be an issue. Would it be worth sanding back the raised edges? If so, how do you suggest I go about doing that? I'm assuming I would have to do this before airbrushing the artwork?

If the inserts are not proud enough to divert the ball, then don't worry about it. Point those two spots out to your clear coater, and he will flood the area with a little extra clear when he does your topcoat.

If they did divert the ball, then you'd scrape them flush with a single edge razor blade, and continue your restoration.

-

Also, you should put the rails on the back of the playfield whenever you spray the clear. That will get them out of the way yet still keep the playfield from cupping.

Run a razor blade along the seam to cut the fresh clear, and carefully separate them from the face of the playfield

-

You also need to stop by the clear coater, and get 4 oz of clear + hardener. You need this to drip-fill the valley around each insert, before you install the black key line decals

#7722 4 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If the inserts are not proud enough to divert the ball, then don't worry about it. Point those two spots out to your clear coater, and he will flood the area with a little extra clear when he does your topcoat.
If they did divert the ball, then you'd scrape them flush with a single edge razor blade, and continue your restoration.
-
Also, you should put the rails on the back of the playfield whenever you spray the clear. That will get them out of the way yet still keep the playfield from cupping.
Run a razor blade along the seam to cut the fresh clear, and carefully separate them from the face of the playfield
-
You also need to stop by the clear coater, and get 4 oz of clear + hardener. You need this to drip-fill the valley around each insert, before you install the black key line decals

Thanks Vid. Really appreciate your feedback here. Just a few (hopefully) quick questions:
1. What "rails on the back of the playfield" are you referring to? (stupid question, sorry)
2. I've used 600 grit to level some of the inserts that were raised slightly. I probably went a little too hard because now I've removed some of the paint (and a tiny bit of wood) around the insert itself (see pics)
3. Not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but the inserts now appear to be scratched up a little from the sanding. Just hoping these are scratches that can be 'buffed out' with something like Novus 2?? I noticed the inserts came up really nice and shiny after the clearcoat. Hoping what I have done here hasnt caused the dreaded "ghosting"
4. When I cut out the bits of frisket on the playfield, the clear was lifting off with it as well. Moving forward I made sure that I wasnt cutting in too deep and that seems to help. The areas where the clear lifted off, is that going to be much of an issue when it comes to applying the Createx paint?
5. The frisket itself is quite sticky underneath. When I peel it off the areas where I want to paint, it leaves a sticky residue that I need to clean off with Naptha or Methylated Spirits. This makes me concerned that when I have to apply a stencil over a painted area, it's going to lift the paint, unless I clearcoat before doing that (see last picture, plan was to do the yellow, wait for it to dry then do the orange using a stencil made from frisket)
playfield 1 (resized).jpgplayfield 2 (resized).jpgplayfield 3 (resized).jpg

InkedBD Playfield 2_LI (resized).jpg
There are 7,723 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 155.

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