Ottawa, ON
Great tips!
So you apply the decals on sanded clear?
Would it not look cloudy under the decal ?
(Topic ID: 33446)
Linked Games
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978-
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
-
Space Jam
Sega, 1996
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:So you apply the decals on sanded clear?
No. Shiney clear.
Has anyone tried some of the clear gloss high impact films used to protect automotive paint?
https://northamerica.llumar.com/automotive-film/car-window-tint-simulator
It looks like they make versions to cover the body of the cars now.
Maybe as an upgraded version of Mylar?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Has anyone tried some of the clear gloss high impact films used to protect automotive paint?
https://northamerica.llumar.com/automotive-film/car-window-tint-simulator
It looks like they make versions to cover the body of the cars now.
Maybe as an upgraded version of Mylar?
I have it, or something similar, on my Mazda.
Its really great stuff for the car and its self sealing!
It lacks the firmness of clearcoat but should work.
Still, full playfield mylar is difficult to remove when restoring.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have it, or something similar, on my Mazda.
Its really great stuff for the car and its self sealing!
It lacks the firmness of clearcoat but should work.
Still, full playfield mylar is difficult to remove when restoring.
It looks like there are several variations and some that are meant to take abuse on rocker panels, etc. Just thinking it may be an option for those that can't clear coat. Could be better than Mylar.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It looks like there are several variations and some that are meant to take abuse on rocker panels, etc. Just thinking it may be an option for those that can't clear coat. Could be better than Mylar.
I agree.
Mylar is dated and sucks, but it works ok and is easily removed with modern advances like freeze spray and Rapid Adhesive-Remover
I was petrified of the thought of removing mylar and ruining a PF, mostly due to the comments of other people who spend half their lives rubbing flour and alcohol...
Then, I get to see Chris from HEP remove mylar in 10 seconds and the fear fades away.
I do not overthink it anymore
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I was petrified of the thought of removing mylar and ruining a PF, mostly due to the comments of other people who spend half their lives rubbing flour and alcohol...
Then, I get to see Chris from HEP remove mylar in 10 seconds and the fear fades away.
I do not overthink it anymore
I have had good luck and bad luck pulling mylar. Freeze spray was fine on one application, ripped the paint half away on another.
Proceed with caution.
Quoted from gdonovan:I have had good luck and bad luck pulling mylar. Freeze spray was fine on one application, ripped the paint half away on another.
Proceed with caution.
Of course. I presume that it might get compromised depending on how thick the clear coat still is.
He made it look very easy on the video, it peeled right off…once the freeze is applied I believe that if there is damage, it happens when you apply the freeze and not when you pull the mylar off.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Of course. I presume that it might get compromised depending on how thick the clear coat still is.
He made it look very easy on the video, it peeled right off…once the freeze is applied I believe that if there is damage, it happens when you apply the freeze and not when you pull the mylar off.
I had no problems pulling mylar off lower half of Seawitch playfield, major loss on upper. Same can of freeze and same technique. Both factory installed areas.
Proceed with caution and assume nothing.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Of course. I presume that it might get compromised depending on how thick the clear coat still is.
He made it look very easy on the video, it peeled right off…once the freeze is applied I believe that if there is damage, it happens when you apply the freeze and not when you pull the mylar off.
The only issue on mylar removal is to never pull the mylar.
By spritzing the freeze spray a bit after the surface gets super cold, and continuing a spritz here and there while lifting the mylar, just the pressure of bending and lifting with a plastic razor blade "clinks" up the Mylar as it separates from the glue.
No pulling is required. Its not necessary. All pulling does is lift artwork over inserts. Dont pull.
Control of the temperature is all thats needed and a little patience. It will all come up in either large sections or small. Just keep spritzing the area that is lifting.
People use several cans of air on this and flood the mylar. That is also unneccessary.
Apply a bit of fluid, wait a few seconds. Find a loose edge, gently lift the edge and keep spritzing a little here and there.
You are removing the mylar from the glue, not the glue from the playfield.
Glue is easily removed with Rapid-Adhesive remover.
It really is pretty easy.
Super old playfields that have a loose surface under the mylar will lose some paint. There is very little you can do about it.
But if the surface is still intact and not pulling at all, you can get a perfect to near perfect result.
Limassol
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Great tips!
So you apply the decals on sanded clear?
Would it not look cloudy under the decal ?
From my experience, the applied clear melts the decal leaving just the ink.
In my opinion Even if the underlying clear coat is sanded , the area under the decal would be shiny since the applied clear coat is in direct contact with the underlying one.
Not 100 percent sure when the decal has white color as a base.
Unless others have experienced different results.
Glen Mills, PA
Just picked up a GOTG and the mylar in front of Groot is damaged and needs replaced. Does anyone have experience with removal of mylar on the Spike 2 games? How well does freeze spray work?
Thanks.
Dennis
I noticed that my playfield has the cutouts not perfectly centered, see the pics. Then I compare to other PFs I have had here and seems common in 90s games?
Wondering if there anything I need to consider when I am putting this PF in the game?
It is worth mentioning that all the inserts are aligned properly, and all the art matches all holes.
IMG_6428 (resized).jpegIMG_6430 (resized).jpegIMG_6432 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin_Fandango:I noticed that my playfield has the cutouts not perfectly centered, see the pics. Then I compare to other PFs I have had here and seems common in 90s games?
Wondering if there anything I need to consider when I am putting this PF in the game?
It is worth mentioning that all the inserts are aligned properly, and all the art matches all holes.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is normal.
Different batches of playfields have varying degrees of registration problems.
Yours is pretty close to average and wont be seen when populated.
If you go over it enough with a magnifier, you will see all sorts of errors.
Its ok.
One its beat up and dimpled, with scrapes and scratches from the ball.
Not forgetting ball tracks etc.
You will soon forget about it.
Quoted from kactussjack:Just picked up a GOTG and the mylar in front of Groot is damaged and needs replaced. Does anyone have experience with removal of mylar on the Spike 2 games? How well does freeze spray work?
Thanks.
Dennis
Google is your friend!
Lots of videos and stuff about it.
Quoted from kactussjack:Just picked up a GOTG and the mylar in front of Groot is damaged and needs replaced. Does anyone have experience with removal of mylar on the Spike 2 games? How well does freeze spray work?
Thanks.
Dennis
The topic index has some great posts in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547712
*I*, me, no one else, me... on modern Sterns have had good luck with freeze spray and then brake cleaner to remove glue. If you melt your playfield using brake cleaner... well don't do that.
Quoted from alexmogil:The topic index has some great posts in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration#post-547712
*I*, me, no one else, me... on modern Sterns have had good luck with freeze spray and then brake cleaner to remove glue. If you melt your playfield using brake cleaner... well don't do that.
Freeze spray then use the rapid adhesive remover!
https://www.amazon.com/RapidTac-Rapid-Adhesive-Remover-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B006RU65UG/ref=sr_1_5
Non-toxic, smells good, super fast results, no melting of inserts, no risk.
OT
Has anyone removed an operators sticker from an apron.
The paint on an apron can be super easy to damage.
I can probably freeze it off but then getting the glue of is another story.
It is on a 6 million dollar man. I can post a pic if it helps
Quoted from PinballAir:OT
Has anyone removed an operators sticker from an apron.
The paint on an apron can be super easy to damage.
I can probably freeze it off but then getting the glue of is another story.
It is on a 6 million dollar man. I can post a pic if it helps
The rapid remover quoted above would be perfect for that.
I have a mylar question though this is not a removal one. It seems like on a lot of machines with decent mylar, the only real issue is the mylar is no longer shiny. I've tried waxing it but it still doesn't really come back to looking like new. I wonder if something like one of these along with some product would buff it up to shiny again?
Capture (resized).PNGI have polished mylar on multiple machines, makes a huge difference. I use a drill and foam pad like the photo above. Generally, the compound that works best is not obvious. I have used Novus 2 and 3 successfully. I had a 3M fibreglass boat hull compound that worked the best. It was a progressive compound where the grit breaks down and becomes finer and you continue. I clean up with Novus 1. I strip the playfield back as much as I can, I tape off some unprotected areas in case my pad has to span off the edge of the mylar. You can bring the mylar back to close to new.
Shot the base layer before touch ups. Looks awesome so far.
Can you clean out the GI sockets if you forgot to put bulbs in them? Asking for a friend.
5C959401-1405-4E09-9A97-AC81CB973F1A (resized).jpeg88AD0C4B-6DC3-4976-88AD-1CF94B536F4A (resized).jpegA1ABDA14-1211-4AE5-B560-831B8B8B0CE4 (resized).jpegIs there a technique to pouring out the clear that doesn’t make a mess and a whole bunch comes out at once?
2 weeks later
Quoted from vid1900:Pull the Frisket off and clear over the paint (maybe the whole playfield if you are efficient).
Remember, we never want to apply a waterslide decal to the bare paint, or directly to a plastic insert.
The reason is that you don't want the tension of the clear coat to be different on the topside of the decal than it is underneath.
You run the risk of ghosting if you just stick the decal to the insert plastic.
I've never had an insert decal ghost that has been applied on top of clear coat, then coated over.
Don't take a shortcut here - do it right.
[quoted image]
Here is the waterslide decal applied .
I am having some confusions understanding the sanding+Clear+decal application.
In an earlier post it was suggested that It is needed to sand the clear with 1000g before applying the decal.
Would not that leave the sand marks/cloudiness visible it the slide is laid over sanded clear and then clear on top? In other words, would the clear look transparent underneath the slide?
1 week later
Question. If this has been answered, please point me to it.
For inserts that are still glued in place properly and level with the playfield, but either the wood has expanded or the insert has shrunk so there's a little gap around the top between the insert and the wood. What's the best way to fill that little gap in?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from RightNut:Question. If this has been answered, please point me to it.
For inserts that are still glued in place properly and level with the playfield, but either the wood has expanded or the insert has shrunk so there's a little gap around the top between the insert and the wood. What's the best way to fill that little gap in? [quoted image]
Throughout this post you can see the answer. Fill the gaps with clearcoat, sand and reapply if needed. I would look back and see any specific methods you might need depending on how much work you are planning on doing to the playfield.
Mike
Gold Coast
Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?
playfield prep (resized).jpgQuoted from joshmc:Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?[quoted image]
Foam would be better.
Quoted from joshmc:Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?[quoted image]
that looks like such an easy candidate to restore, all solid colors, straight forward. Air brushing for the win! then clear coat it!
Quoted from joshmc:Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?[quoted image]
I would leave (glue) the inserts in and would also tape any exposed holes from beneath to prevent 2pac from seeping. I also plug the GI bulbs holes with foam earplugs. Tape plastic all around the underside of the playfield to protect from overspray.
Quoted from wayinla:I would leave (glue) the inserts in and would also tape any exposed holes from beneath to prevent 2pac from seeping. I also plug the GI bulbs holes with foam earplugs. Tape plastic all around the underside of the playfield to protect from overspray.
I purchased new inserts but thought it would be best to put those in after the playfield has been painted and clear coated. Would there be an issue with using the old inserts during the clear coating and painting process? Or will they become stuck due to the clear coat and require removal?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:that looks like such an easy candidate to restore, all solid colors, straight forward. Air brushing for the win! then clear coat it!
Compared to some of the newer playfields out there - absolutely. The only thing I’ve used photoshop and the silhouette for is the large yellow centre image because i didn’t feel I could do a perfect job with an exacto knife
Also, do I need to do the 400, 800, 1000, 1200 grit wet sand between clear coats? People talk about doing this in order for the paint to adhere better. I was thinking of clearcoating then airbrushing (one colour at a time) then a light sand then clear coat. Is that the best approach?
Quoted from joshmc:I purchased new inserts but thought it would be best to put those in after the playfield has been painted and clear coated. Would there be an issue with using the old inserts during the clear coating and painting process? Or will they become stuck due to the clear coat and require removal?
You need to do inserts before clearing or touch up.
Quoted from gdonovan:You need to do inserts before clearing or touch up.
new inserts or old?
Quoted from joshmc:new inserts or old?
new. the inserts need to be glued in place sanded flush, then artwork, keylines at least, then clear over the top of all of it
Quoted from BorgDog:new. the inserts need to be glued in place sanded flush, then artwork, keylines at least, then clear over the top of all of it
I was going to leave the keylines until AFTER I had completed the major artwork. In terms of the keylines themselves, I'm not sure how to go about it. They're so fine, I cant imagine masking it up and doing it with an airbrush. How do people go about this?
Quoted from joshmc:Also, do I need to do the 400, 800, 1000, 1200 grit wet sand between clear coats? People talk about doing this in order for the paint to adhere better. I was thinking of clearcoating then airbrushing (one colour at a time) then a light sand then clear coat. Is that the best approach?
400 grit wet sand , works fine b2in clear coats. If the playfield is already level 600 grit is also ok.
You can go to 1200 1500 2000 on your final coat.
Quoted from joshmc:I was going to leave the keylines until AFTER I had completed the major artwork. In terms of the keylines themselves, I'm not sure how to go about it. They're so fine, I cant imagine masking it up and doing it with an airbrush. How do people go about this?
In a similar situation I create keylines in photoshop ( you can use any other free program ) and print them On clear decal. I apply them before the final clear coat.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration#post-4720479
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration/page/3#post-5194018
Quoted from joshmc:I was going to leave the keylines until AFTER I had completed the major artwork. In terms of the keylines themselves, I'm not sure how to go about it. They're so fine, I cant imagine masking it up and doing it with an airbrush. How do people go about this?
Go to page one of this guide and re-read. Then re-read it again. Vid goes through this whole process in detail, using an F-14 Tomcat as a guide. Later era game but all the principles apply the same, and the order of operations is the same.
DO NOT spray clear without the inserts bein on glued in.
As for filling other holes in the playfield, place old bulbs in the lamp sockets, and tape over the other holes from the back side.
GI lamps often protrude from the surface. That will tear up your sandpaper when you level sand layer on. You may find it is ultimately easier to tear down the mechanics than to try to leave them. Plus you’ll discover all the busted part and frayed wires that need to be addressed, and have the opportunity to clean things thoroughly.
It’s more work than you bargained for, but is work worth doing.
How would you deal with cupped inserts underneath mylar thats been there for 30 years? Specifically, I have an extra kiss project thats had mylar on it forever, but the inserts are cupped underneath and its a full sheet in a couple portions that protected the whole typically heavily worn areas of the playfield.
Quoted from joshmc:Hi folks,
I’m prepping the playfield to do the first clearcoat before I start using the airbrush. I haven’t removed the electronics from the underside of the playfield. It’s too tedious and I’m not confident I could put everything back where it belongs. I’ve plugged up the holes with cotton balls (see attached pic), however I’m starting to wonder if this is a bad idea. The purpose of this is to stop the clearcoat from damaging the electronics. I still have the old inserts. Perhaps that would be a better idea?[quoted image]
If it was me I would glue new inserts in and set them as level as possible, drip some clearcoat into any recesses around the inserts with a small brush or eyedropper, spray a few coats on. Give it a once-over with a orbital and 800 grit. Fill any gouges with autobody filler , sand everything flush, apply touchups, then re-clearcoat it, applying drops into any pits between coats. If the surface between the inserts and surrounding areas is smooth, get a plastic stencil that is used to trace circles and use that to redraw the circles with a acrylic posca paint pen. The black circles isnt always centered on the inserts but those can be fixed now.
Pont-du-château
Hi, anybody have an Idea to solve this clearcot bubbles? I think about heat and press down...(on the magnet area it needs to remove mylar before...)
received_174658894548877 (resized).jpegreceived_515822923044628 (resized).jpegreceived_848269572765620 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20211010_064927 (resized).jpgI have read a lot of posts on this thread tonight about using 3M plastic primer on playfield inserts prior to placing the inserts in the playfield with epoxy there. Vid states without the plastic primer, the epoxy will simply break off the plastic. Also, the 3M plastic primer is difficult to find.
Does anyone know if this primer will work to help the plastic to wood adhesion?
3M Primer 94 Pen:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-3-Pack-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top
Thank you.
Has anyone tried using acrylic inks for touch up painting? Like Liquitex or Amsterdam? They seem to have a lot of color choices, and I would think they would be easy to mix and fairly ready for airbrushing out of the bottle. Maybe go on thinner than paint as well?
https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-ink/?range=acrylic-ink
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
