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(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,174 posts
  • 673 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by CryptKeeperAUS
  • Topic is favorited by 1,644 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7174 posts in this topic. You are on page 143 of 144.
#7101 52 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That looks great!

Thanks man, after a few other color touchups and a "Lost Treasure" insert text repaint, I will be clearcoating it with Spraymax and then re-swap out the Micro playfield with this one. I can probably try a waterslide decal for the Lost Treasure but I have no idea if the Spraymax would dissolve the decal or the printer ink.

I'm using the opaque yellow 5204, and I'm mixing it with the wicked colors orange 0004. After using the reducer I had to add more of the orange because it looked like it was reverting back to the 5204.

#7102 52 days ago

The big art store in Wellington also recommends Golden, and I've got myself a copy of Michael Wilcox's book "Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green", which is a great help in understanding how colour pigments work at the photon-level, and how to mix colours based on that knowledge. I'll be learning my way on a '69 Miss-O which got it's first mist-coat of Dulux Duramax (2PAC in a spraycan) last weekend. This will be a wall art project, so the clearcoat won't have to deal with silverballs.

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#7103 52 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

I use the Nix colour scanner and input RGB

I'm guessing from this that you have the entry level Nix scanner? I looked at that one as well as the much more expensive one that allows you to create your own library of colors, but could not justify the cost simply to input the set of Createx colors I have. If your results are good, I'd be willing to dump the Createx, buy the cheap Nix, and use the color matching tool and the Golden Flow paints.

Any issues with spraying 2PAC over those colors? I'd guess not...

#7104 51 days ago

Nicotine or stain bleed? Weird.

#7105 51 days ago
Quoted from PinballBillinFL:

I'm guessing from this that you have the entry level Nix scanner? I looked at that one as well as the much more expensive one that allows you to create your own library of colors, but could not justify the cost simply to input the set of Createx colors I have. If your results are good, I'd be willing to dump the Createx, buy the cheap Nix, and use the color matching tool and the Golden Flow paints.
Any issues with spraying 2PAC over those colors? I'd guess not...

I have https://www.nixsensor.com/nix-mini/
It remembers your scans in the app.

1 week later
#7106 41 days ago

The Harbor Freight HVLP guns are $9.99 until October 22nd.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html

Get two, and buy a replacement plan.

#7107 41 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

The Harbor Freight HVLP guns are $9.99 until October 22nd.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html
Get two, and buy a replacement plan.

I love those little guns, spray like butter!

#7108 41 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

The Harbor Freight HVLP guns are $9.99 until October 22nd.

I always keep a new one around 'just in case'. I HATE having to leave something in the middle to make a parts run.

I have one that I modified for shooting latex by following this technique:

2 weeks later
#7109 26 days ago

I just picked up a whirlwind and the playfield is covered in a large sheet of mylar and thus in good shape. It looks like most of the arrows have pushed up and created a bubble in the mylar. I'm guessing the only real answer (other than "leave it as is and enjoy") is to remove the whole sheet of mylar, pull the arrows out, glue in flush and then get a new sheet of mylar?

Mark

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#7110 26 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I'm guessing the only real answer (other than "leave it as is and enjoy") is to remove the whole sheet of mylar, pull the arrows out, glue in flush and then get a new sheet of mylar?

Unless you're going to do a full restore, your assumption above is what I would do.

#7111 26 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Unless you're going to do a full restore, your assumption above is what I would do.

You could try Vid's tip and epoxy from the underside and press the inserts back down. this would at least stop the ball from hopping over the arrows.
Just a suggestion.
Mike

#7112 26 days ago

Pulling Mylar on a System 11 is very dicey. Proceed very cautiously so as to not damage graphics.

#7113 26 days ago
Quoted from sawbill:

Pulling Mylar on a System 11 is very dicey. Proceed very cautiously so as to not damage graphics.

I was really worried about that. It’s a huge piece and what’s under it is beautiful. I will try it but I have to say I am nervous!

#7114 26 days ago

You should be extremely nervous. You might get it off fine and be left with a ton of glue residue, and cleaning thst can be what does the most damage

#7115 26 days ago

Other than a full restore ( including applying clear ), fixing minor problems and reapplying Mylar looks the way to go.

16
#7116 25 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I'm guessing the only real answer (other than "leave it as is and enjoy") is to remove the whole sheet of mylar, pull the arrows out, glue in flush and then get a new sheet of mylar?

Just leave it alone.

That's too nice of a playfield to be your first butcher job.

Sys9 and 11 often the ink comes off the inserts too

#7117 25 days ago

!!!!!!! Welcome back Vid!

#7118 25 days ago

All hail VID!!! All hail VID!!!

#7119 25 days ago

Just want to reiterate the feeling among a ton of pinsiders that you've helped over the years - we're hoping that your return is a long one, and know that you've been a big part of successful restorations from folks who have had the pleasure of using your advise, tips and tricks to fine tune their restoration game.

#7120 25 days ago

Welcome back Vid. Now hopefully the community can let you post your guides in full before we start bombarding you with questions.

#7121 25 days ago

I am soooo happy you're back!

#7122 25 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Just leave it alone.
That's too nice of a playfield to be your first butcher job.
Sys9 and 11 often the ink comes off the inserts too

Dude....long time no see. Nice surprise to see you back in the thread

#7123 25 days ago

Yuhuuuu the Master is back!!!

#7124 25 days ago

As a newish pinball owner (about a year and a half) I’ve found your guides invaluable. I hope you pop in more than once in a while and continue to share your knowledge.

#7125 24 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

As a newish pinball owner (about a year and a half) I’ve found your guides invaluable. I hope you pop in more than once in a while and continue to share your knowledge.

This is my sentiments exactly. Thank you vid, you're helpful resource has made all the difference in the world for a beginner like myself to feel confident enough to tackle a hardtop install on a space shuttle. The simplest advice of, "use a sharp drill bit when removing a rivet from a stand-up"goes a long way toward straightening the learning curve for so many of us. Thank you for all you've contributed.

#7126 24 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Just leave it alone.
That's too nice of a playfield to be your first butcher job.
Sys9 and 11 often the ink comes off the inserts too

I’m thinking I might try to heat the inserts up a little from the bottom with a heat gun, then use a deep c clamp and see if I can force the inserts back flush. That won’t eliminate the Mylar gap but it seems like it should help...won’t it?

#7127 24 days ago

I had good success with leveling lifted inserts on my players condition F14 and described my quick and dirty solution there:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/139#post-5635204

#7128 23 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I’m thinking I might try to heat the inserts up a little from the bottom with a heat gun, then use a deep c clamp and see if I can force the inserts back flush. That won’t eliminate the Mylar gap but it seems like it should help...won’t it?

Yes, you can level them, but the Mylar probably will still have the hump

#7129 21 days ago

Well .. that's a very welcome surprise !! Very happy to see back the Person that gives life and spice to this site !!
Hope your stay will be a long one. Take care big man

11
#7130 19 days ago

Latest restore. Moderate planking issues. Repainted all yellow, dark blue, white, touch-up on the remaining colors. McFaddens lacquer with new plastics.

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#7131 19 days ago

Did you mask off the shadowing on the white dresses or just repaint it?

#7132 19 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Did you mask off the shadowing on the white dresses or just repaint it?

Hand painted around it. Touched up. Did do a water slide for the text on the top rollovers.

#7133 19 days ago

Looks awesome.
Beautiful work!

#7134 19 days ago
Quoted from John_in_NC:

Latest restore. Moderate planking issues. Repainted all yellow, dark blue, white, touch-up on the remaining colors. McFaddens lacquer with new plastics.
[quoted image]

Absolutely beautiful!

Which paint did you used for the touch-ups? I see several kinds of McFaddens lacquer available. Which specific one did you use?

Thanks

#7135 18 days ago
Quoted from Bele20097:

Absolutely beautiful!
Which paint did you used for the touch-ups? I see several kinds of McFaddens lacquer available. Which specific one did you use?
Thanks

This McFaddens - Polishes nicely. Colors were whatever I had. Testers for yellow, blue and white were a mix I made up.

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#7136 16 days ago

Hi all, Is there anyone out there that will print water slide decals to order? I want to repair the damage around an old Twister playfield. The spinning magnet disc has done its fair share of damage. Any suggestions would be welcomed. I have found a high res picture but it isnt perfectly centre.

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#7137 16 days ago
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:

Is there anyone out there that will print water slide decals to order?

Your local hobby shop probably does (they do in the States)

You will have to protect the decal with Clearcoat or Mylar. The waterslide decal itself is rather fragile by itself, unprotected.

Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:

I have found a high res picture but it isnt perfectly centre.

Often a simple black keyline looks great and unobtrusive

#7138 16 days ago

New....Seeking advice on process steps for the Royal Guard Playfield. Have read most of the playfield resto thread. I just want to understand sequence/steps for the bricks mainly. Mask and spray the purple... then mask the purple and spray the grout?? Oh My!

Thanks,

Pete

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#7139 16 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Most playfields have lots of reflective white areas that are lit by the General Illumination circuits.
Even though you often don't directly see these areas, it's important to repaint them bright white.
My light meter says that by repainting these sections, you are gaining 30-40% reflectance - that's a lot.
Not only are you getting a brighter reflection, you are getting a pure reflection, rather than one tinted beige or yellow.
The old paint has yellowed, the old Lacquer on top of it has yellowed, but at some point these areas were indeed a nice white.
These areas are mostly out of sight of the player, so you can do them without a bunch of leveling and patching. Because you can do them so quickly, there is no reason not to do them.
Sometimes these areas are just clear wood on one version of the playfield and screened white on another, latter production run. It's a judgement call if you want the extra light reflection (and color purity) by painting the clear wood white. Some purists frown upon it, many customers insist on it.
Don't get paint in the light sockets, or try to put balls of foam or tape in them. Just put some old bulbs in the sockets and paint around them.
[quoted image]

Re-doing a Stern Stars. Would everyone recommend painting the GI areas under slings, plastics ,etc white even though I don't plan on painting the other white areas on playfield which at this point are a off white/cream color (presumably from age)?

#7140 16 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Re-doing a Stern Stars. Would everyone recommend painting the GI areas under slings, plastics ,etc...

Nope.

Well I guess I should ask are you really re painting every part of the PF?

And then the answer is still no.

#7141 16 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Nope.
Well I guess I should ask are you really re painting every part of the PF?
And then the answer is still no.

No, just had to touch up one red outlane, the red through the center points track, the SK star and a bit of some black down at the bottom. It was completely flaked so I didn't really have any option of clearing over it or using a playfield overlay.

I thought I read on Vid's guide here somewhere that one of the main errors with redoing a playfield is not painting the white and the post I quoted implies you should repaint the hidden white because nobody ever sees it and it helps the lighting.

#7142 16 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

I thought I read on Vid's guide here somewhere that one of the main errors with...

Yeah he probably said that, but you should be OK. Light spread should be OK even without LEDs.

Again, unless you're clearing over everything anyway and want to get deep into it; Even then I wouldn't.

#7143 16 days ago
Quoted from Huds:

I just want to understand sequence/steps for the bricks mainly. Mask and spray the purple... then mask the purple and spray the grout?? Oh My!
Thanks,
Pete[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd slap some Frisket across the entire playfield to cover the building and I'd cut out the entire section of bricks. All straight lines so would be relatively quick with an xacto and a straight edge. Just a bit of free hand around the top of the windows, shrubs, hat and sword tip.
Then airbrush white.

Then from a properly scalled, scanned and vectorized image of the wall portions, id cut myself a mask to mask out all the grout lines and would spray the purple bricks.
Nothing complicated, just time, patience and ressouces. You need a bit of computer skills for the vectorizing and need access to a scanner and a vinyl cutter.

Some with a different point of view may question why you want to repaint at all.

#7144 16 days ago
Quoted from Huds:

Seeking advice on process steps for the Royal Guard Playfield. Have read most of the playfield resto thread. I just want to understand sequence/steps for the bricks mainly. Mask and spray the purple... then mask the purple and spray the grout??

I'd scan the area.

Then I'd paint the entire area the grout (mortar?) color

Then I'd print the purple bricks on waterslide and apply them, in sections, over the grout

0

If you are feeling artistic, you could paint the area the grout color, then apply Pinstripe or Drafting tape, and spray the purple.

#7145 16 days ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Re-doing a Stern Stars. Would everyone recommend painting the GI areas under slings, plastics ,etc white even though I don't plan on painting the other white areas on playfield which at this point are a off white/cream color (presumably from age)?

That's what I do.

Those old yellowed sections reflect ~30% of the light on my camera light meter, after painting that number goes up to ~70%. That's a big difference.

That number is from using Createx Opaque White, but there are even more reflective white paints that can hit 85% reflectivity.

1 week later
#7146 8 days ago

Hi vid1900 I am following your insert replacement section. I managed to get the inserts out, cleaned out the insert hole, primed the insert, and epoxied one in. Then I tapped it down gently. Unfortunately the insert isn't flat with the playfield. It is tapped down all the way.

I do not have plans to clear this playfield. I just wanted to replace these inserts because the star rollovers were getting stuck, and some of them were broken.

How do I fix this? Thank you.

555 (resized).jpg

#7147 8 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi vid1900 I am following your insert replacement section. I managed to get the inserts out, cleaned out the insert hole, primed the insert, and epoxied one in. Then I tapped it down gently. Unfortunately the insert isn't flat with the playfield. It is tapped down all the way.
I do not have plans to clear this playfield. I just wanted to replace these inserts because the star rollovers were getting stuck, and some of them were broken.
How do I fix this? Thank you.
[quoted image]

Heat it, clamp it down firmly.
If that fails,

Pull/grind/chisle it out.

Sand the top and bottom of the next insert so it fits better.

#7148 8 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi vid1900 I am following your insert replacement section. I managed to get the inserts out, cleaned out the insert hole, primed the insert, and epoxied one in. Then I tapped it down gently. Unfortunately the insert isn't flat with the playfield. It is tapped down all the way.
I do not have plans to clear this playfield. I just wanted to replace these inserts because the star rollovers were getting stuck, and some of them were broken.
How do I fix this? Thank you.
[quoted image]

Put a piece of Scotch tape on each side of the insert

Hold a brand new utility knife blade across the insert at a 90 degree angle

Draw the blade across, shaving the insert down

As you start to hit the tape, stop - close enough for pinball

#7149 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Heat it, clamp it down firmly.
If that fails,
Pull/grind/chisle it out.
Sand the top and bottom of the next insert so it fits better.

It is down as far as it can go.
I am sure I could get it out, but I would like to avoid this if possible.
I will sand the bottom of the next insert to avoid duplicating this mistake.

Quoted from vid1900:

Put a piece of Scotch tape on each side of the insert
Hold a brand new utility knife blade across the insert at a 90 degree angle
Draw the blade across, shaving the insert down
As you start to hit the tape, stop - close enough for pinball

Sorry, but I'm trying to understand this.

It's a round insert, so I don't understand what you mean by put Scotch tape on each side.

Is there a specific type of utility knife that you would recommend? I'm picturing this in my head.
razor (resized).jpeg

Could you clarify?

#7150 8 days ago
Quoted from Fifty:

It's a round insert, so I don't understand what you mean by put Scotch tape on each side.

I think what he’s saying is to put scotch tape around the insert on the playfield not on top of insert so that as you start to scrape/shave the top of the insert you will be able to see the razor getting close to the playfield by seeing the tape getting cut by the razor. And yeah that’s the type of razor I would use. Never had to do it but that’s how I would go about it.

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