(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,885 posts
  • 646 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by PinballAir
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 6885 posts in this topic. You are on page 138 of 138.
#6851 68 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Remove the mechs and harnesses.
They need to be inspected anyway.

Just take lots of pics.

#6852 65 days ago

Looking for advice with half tone dots,

I have a Road kings that im doing a complete ground up on. My Paragon PF is finally off the rotisserie so i can start the road kings.

This is the first game im going to attempt an PF art repair on.

Ive read through this thread many times but i am confused on the consensus woth how everyone is dealing with halftone dots.

My problem is there is alot of planking going on on this PF so there is large areas with colored halftones that ill have to deal with.

If the half tones were simply black dots i would go ahead with shooting the colors and decaling the dots on... but im not really sure how best to deal with colored half tones.

Ive seen people with smaller repair areas simply print a color decal, butnifnthat the solution i might aswell just do a a complete overlay.

Is there a technique to reproduce halftones with an airbrush? Or by hand with micro brushes ( im willing to put the time in) ?

Here some pics for clarification ( im more focused on the orange yellow dot blends)

20200127_220446 (resized).jpg20200127_220522 (resized).jpg
#6853 64 days ago

You could create that effect with an air brush but the purists would frown on it if it is not dots. It depends on if you are going to keep it or sell it at some point.

#6854 64 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:You could create that effect with an air brush but the purists would frown on it if it is not dots. It depends on if you are going to keep it or sell it at some point.

Yeah it be easy to do a blend with the airbrush, im looking to have the dots... if not exactly, but good enough to fool a close inspection haha...
Im thinking something along the lines of a stencil, or using a silk screen, just wanted to quiz up the community for ideas if anyone has done something to recreate this without going the decal route... my google foo hasn't turned up any viable options

#6855 64 days ago
Quoted from StandsOnToes:

Yeah it be easy to do a blend with the airbrush, im looking to have the dots... if not exactly, but good enough to fool a close inspection haha...
Im thinking something along the lines of a stencil, or using a silk screen, just wanted to quiz up the community for ideas if anyone has done something to recreate this without going the decal route... my google foo hasn't turned up any viable options

This guide has the instructions on how to do it.

Vid laid it out pretty clearly.

#6856 64 days ago
Quoted from StandsOnToes:

My problem is there is alot of planking going on on this PF so there is large areas with colored halftones that ill have to deal with.

He prints them on waterslide decals. Below is part 1 of 7 he talks about the half tone process.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/29#post-2024751

For a complete restore, I would paint the base color with Createx, lock that down with a layer of 2PAC, apply the half tone decals, apply lock down layer of 2 PAC over the decals (once set of course).

#6857 64 days ago

Ok well i am this process of a retheme, installing new inserts. And here is were i am stuck.
vid says to sand the tops off to take that number off

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#6858 64 days ago

But when i sand it (120, 220, 400) it comes out quite ‘unclear’

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#6859 64 days ago

Im unsure what to do next....
do i sand them?
Do I not sand them?
Does applying clear, ‘clear’ them up again?

#6860 64 days ago

Maybe it's buried in this thread, but I couldn't find it by searching. What make/model of frisket was used for this guide? Or what have people used successfully?

#6861 64 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Does applying clear, ‘clear’ them up again?

It does. You actually want them to not be clear in the first place so the 2PAC can properly adhere.

#6862 64 days ago
Quoted from StandsOnToes:

Looking for advice with half tone dots,
I have a Road kings that im doing a complete ground up on. My Paragon PF is finally off the rotisserie so i can start the road kings.
This is the first game im going to attempt an PF art repair on.
Ive read through this thread many times but i am confused on the consensus woth how everyone is dealing with halftone dots.
My problem is there is alot of planking going on on this PF so there is large areas with colored halftones that ill have to deal with.
If the half tones were simply black dots i would go ahead with shooting the colors and decaling the dots on... but im not really sure how best to deal with colored half tones.
Ive seen people with smaller repair areas simply print a color decal, butnifnthat the solution i might aswell just do a a complete overlay.
Is there a technique to reproduce halftones with an airbrush? Or by hand with micro brushes ( im willing to put the time in) ?
Here some pics for clarification ( im more focused on the orange yellow dot blends)[quoted image][quoted image]

Personally, I'd stay away from waterslides and I'd stick to airbrushing. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/35#post-4744197 for how Chris@HEP does it.

#6863 64 days ago
Quoted from lb1:

Personally, I'd stay away from waterslides and I'd stick to airbrushing. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/35#post-4744197 for how Chris@HEP does it.

Like Chris says.

Its impossible to paint gradients.

But it is very possible to decal them.

The decal half tone system is very good.

#6864 64 days ago
Quoted from LeChuck:

Maybe it's buried in this thread, but I couldn't find it by searching. What make/model of frisket was used for this guide? Or what have people used successfully?

This is what i have been using succesfully.

amazon.com link »

Used it on a couple of complete PF repaint. Works fine.

#6865 64 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Im unsure what to do next....
do i sand them?
Do I not sand them?
Does applying clear, ‘clear’ them up again?

Seconding lb1's answer. Clearing will definitely "clear" them!

#6866 64 days ago

Awesome thanks guys! I guess onward i go

#6867 64 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This guide has the instructions on how to do it.
Vid laid it out pretty clearly.

Yep read that, like i said i was wondering if there was other options to the decals...thanks

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Like Chris says.
Its impossible to paint gradients.
But it is very possible to decal them.
The decal half tone system is very good.

I guess thats one way, but he didnt really recreate the halftones, he just lightly misted over them... might be a option....

Thanks for inputs so far..... like i said id rather stay away from decals since there would be ALOT of decaling to do (the wholePF is basically half tones )...
I guess im not really over concerned about doing that much decaling, but i am worried about getting color matching good enough... has anyone done areas like this where the half tones are two different colors? How do color decals stand up over the long run?

#6868 64 days ago
Quoted from StandsOnToes:

Yep read that, like i said i was wondering if there was other options to the decals...thanks

I guess thats one way, but he didnt really recreate the halftones, he just lightly misted over them... might be a option....
Thanks for inputs so far..... like i said id rather stay away from decals since there would be ALOT of decaling to do (the wholePF is basically half tones )...
I guess im not really over concerned about doing that much decaling, but i am worried about getting color matching good enough... has anyone done areas like this where the half tones are two different colors? How do color decals stand up over the long run?

Doing half-tone using dots printed on a waterslide decal for a small area would work just fine. Based on your photos though, you're looking at doing some very large sections. That means a lot of printing, cutting, careful application. Large sections have to be cut into smaller pieces. Then you need to worry about not melting them when you apply the clear, or sanding through later on. If it was my playfield, I would focus on doing a good job matching color and airbrushing. This said, I'm personally not worried about keeping the original look and concerned about whether I can execute without messing up and having a decent looking result.

#6869 63 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Im unsure what to do next....
do i sand them?
Do I not sand them?
Does applying clear, ‘clear’ them up again?

Yes. They will be clear again AND the clear has something to stick to.
If you put some naptha on you could see them getting clear.

#6870 63 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Im unsure what to do next....
do i sand them?
Do I not sand them?
Does applying clear, ‘clear’ them up again?

Yes, you do sand them, and then you keep going up to wet sanding with 800, 1000, 2000. That will bring them back to a good shine, ready for clear coat if desired.

#6871 63 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Yes, you do sand them, and then you keep going up to wet sanding with 800, 1000, 2000. That will bring them back to a good shine, ready for clear coat if desired.

I would stop at 800.

You need good tooth in order to avoid ghosting later.

#6874 63 days ago

Yes, i read that part. But then was worried installing them when looked so hazy. But i did anyway and am hoping for the best. Just finished and it will go back to the artist for the final art and clear! I cant wait

#6875 63 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

... was worried installing them when looked so hazy.

They will not be hazy once clear coated. I have done a lot of playfields and I usually prep new inserts with 320-400 before installing them back into the playfield. You need a mechanical bond and if you use anything higher than 600 grit you are going to ask for problems.

#6876 63 days ago
Quoted from Tommy-dog:

They will not be hazy once clear coated. I have done a lot of playfields and I usually prep new inserts with 320-400 before installing them back into the playfield. You need a mechanical bond and if you use anything higher than 600 grit you are going to ask for problems.

I think 550 is a good compromise.
I use that lightly before my initial first coat.

Gray 800 sponge blocked in straight lines for the next 3 coats before spraying.

#6877 63 days ago

Thanks for the great info and tips guys!

3 weeks later
#6878 39 days ago

Need advice on fixing this along with slightly raised inserts. Thanks!

20200221_062832 (resized).jpg
1 week later
2 weeks later
#6880 14 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There is a saying in pinball.
"NEVER remove Mylar unless you are clearcoating the playfield"
For now, wax the area and put a new patch of Mylar down.
Latter, you can take the playfield apart and do a proper repair.

It's time to poke some good natured fun at Vid...

Vid,

What you wrote is not a "saying". The following is taken from Wiki. A saying is any concisely written or spoken expression that is especially memorable because of its meaning or style." Additionally, this is also NOT an idiom, mantra, motto, quip, or witticism. What we have here is a "Maxim" A maxim is an instructional expression of a general principle.

Anyway, having said all that, I do have a comment on this matter. I have a Fire pin and decided to remove the mylar since it was peeling and basically just a mess. I removed the mylar using freeze spray- no problem. But getting the residual glue off is super hard. Still working on it!

#6881 14 days ago
Quoted from billsacto:

It's time to poke some good natured fun at Vid...
Vid,
What you wrote is not a "saying". The following is taken from Wiki. A saying is any concisely written or spoken expression that is especially memorable because of its meaning or style." Additionally, this is also NOT an idiom, mantra, motto, quip, or witticism. What we have here is a "Maxim" A maxim is an instructional expression of a general principle.
Anyway, having said all that, I do have a comment on this matter. I have a Fire pin and decided to remove the mylar since it was peeling and basically just a mess. I removed the mylar using freeze spray- no problem. But getting the residual glue off is super hard. Still working on it!

rapid remover from rapid-tac

ebay.com link

1 week later
#6882 3 days ago

Is there rule if thumb for which color to lay down first while airbrushing with stencils on a complete playfield repaint. For example, should I paint whole area with white first then work my way to black last?

#6883 3 days ago

Generally, yes.
It is always easier to cover lighter colors with dark.
Occasionally, you might do a darker color first if it is a larger background and the details are a lighter color.

#6884 11 hours ago
Quoted from gawlicd:

Is there rule if thumb for which color to lay down first while airbrushing with stencils on a complete playfield repaint. For example, should I paint whole area with white first then work my way to black last?

You should do pure white last , as it tends to get dirty while you work on the rest of the colors. Also , If you are going to apply a light color , for example yellow , then applying a light coat of white before applying the yellow , will make the final color more consistent and vibrant.

#6885 7 hours ago

Yes on the white.

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