Grass Valley, CA
Quoted from Pablito350:Krylon triple thick clear works great for this, and won't yellow over time.
amazon.com link »
-Paul
Thank you
(Topic ID: 33446)
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Quoted from Leveeger:Krylon Triple thick is a forbidden product in Europe because of Cancer risk... So 2K clear is used instead, with no yellowish...
That is pretty damn funny considering the precautions you have to take shooting 2k. Stuff is nasty.
Quoted from Leveeger:Krylon Triple thick is a forbidden product in Europe because of Cancer risk... So 2K clear is used instead, with no yellowish...
I find it hard to believe that triple thick is more cancerous than 2K.
The 2K risk is not really a cancer problem, it is an acute poisoning problem. I would be surprised if anyone has managed to get enough low doses without being sick that they actually got cancer from it. Regular spray paints won't poison you as quickly so you can get doses over time and some of the chemicals definitely cause cancer.
Auckland
Quoted from pinballinreno:Epoxy a wooden plug.
Thinset it with bondo or half-time for cosmetics
Pinballinreno: thanks for the advice. Just to clarify, does the wooden plug need a backing under the playfield? Playfield is thin here. I might be able to use 5 ply for the plug but wonder at the wisdom of replacing like with like since the original wood wore away. Many seem to use Bondi or jb quikweld as a harder filler as compared to wood.
Quoted from 7oxford:Pinballinreno: thanks for the advice. Just to clarify, does the wooden plug need a backing under the playfield? Playfield is thin here. I might be able to use 5 ply for the plug but wonder at the wisdom of replacing like with like since the original wood wore away. Many seem to use Bondi or jb quikweld as a harder filler as compared to wood.
With the playfield on a rotisserie.
Load the hole with epoxy.
Insert plug.
Spluge epoxy out as you put in the plug.
Work fast lol.
Now you have a void filled with solid epoxy resin behind the plug.
Sand off plug even with the bottom.
This should hold for another 30 years.
1 week later
I have a small divot in my playfield where I can see bare wood - pretty small - maybe about half the size of a pencil eraser. This is an 80’s playfield so no clear coat and I’m not planning to clear coat at this time anyway.
I want to fill it to level it off, touch it up and seal with mylar (after waxing).
Clay’s guide mentions that water thin super glue can be built up for this purpose. Has anyone used this approach to fill a small divot or should I be looking into using some other product like qwikwood?
Thanks!
Quoted from pincity:Clay’s guide mentions that water thin super glue can be built up for this purpose. Has anyone used this approach to fill a small divot or should I be looking into using some other product like qwikwood?
Thanks!
Are you planning to put some colour on top of the patch? I would be reluctant to use super glue, it won't build up and remain clear easily. If you are top coating it with a colour then epoxy wood filler would work well.
Quoted from pincity:I have a small divot in my playfield where I can see bare wood - pretty small - maybe about half the size of a pencil eraser. This is an 80’s playfield so no clear coat and I’m not planning to clear coat at this time anyway.
I want to fill it to level it off, touch it up and seal with mylar (after waxing).
Clay’s guide mentions that water thin super glue can be built up for this purpose. Has anyone used this approach to fill a small divot or should I be looking into using some other product like qwikwood?
Thanks!
Mylar over it, fix it later during a restoration.
Super glue is a bit brittle and chips real easy.
Quoted from pincity:I have a small divot in my playfield where I can see bare wood - pretty small - maybe about half the size of a pencil eraser. This is an 80’s playfield so no clear coat and I’m not planning to clear coat at this time anyway.
I want to fill it to level it off, touch it up and seal with mylar (after waxing).
Clay’s guide mentions that water thin super glue can be built up for this purpose. Has anyone used this approach to fill a small divot or should I be looking into using some other product like qwikwood?
Thanks!
If it is deep enough that it changes gameplay then you could fill it with some quikwood and then mylar over it. If it's shallow (i.e., just the paint is gone) then I'd just mylar over it and call it a day.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Are you planning to put some colour on top of the patch? I would be reluctant to use super glue, it won't build up and remain clear easily. If you are top coating it with a colour then epoxy wood filler would work well.
I was planning to put some, yes, thanks!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mylar over it, fix it later during a restoration.
Super glue is a bit brittle and chips real easy.
Thanks for the info, glad I asked.
Quoted from ktownhero:If it is deep enough that it changes gameplay then you could fill it with some quikwood and then mylar over it. If it's shallow (i.e., just the paint is gone) then I'd just mylar over it and call it a day.
Makes sense, thanks.
1 month later
I have a PF where it looks like the prop rod when through the pf. I looked through post 1 quick but didn't see something for wood repair. Is there a section for that?
Quoted from scampcamp:Sorry if this has been asked...
Where is Vid1900 ? Is he ok? Is he using a different user name?
Here is a bunch of (mostly joking) speculation:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wheres-vid1900
Limassol
Quoted from scampcamp:Sorry if this has been asked...
Where is Vid1900 ? Is he ok? Is he using a different user name?
We exchanged emails some months back .
He is fine doing what he does best , restoring pinballs.
I hate to ask but I think I’ve looked this thread over and others and can’t get a clear answer.
I’m going to lay down a coat of clear so I can put down water decals over inserts. (Key lines and numbers)
I cant seem to find direction on if the base layer should be sanded level prior to applying the waterslides. And if so:
What grit?
Does the sanded clearcoat appear clear after the decal is applied?
I guess my fear is having a cloudy layer of sanded clearcoat under the clear parts of the decal on an insert.
If any post or other threads exist feel free to link or just let me know your experiences.
Thanks everyone
Quoted from mrm_4:I hate to ask but I think I’ve looked this thread over and others and can’t get a clear answer.
I’m going to lay down a coat of clear so I can put down water decals over inserts. (Key lines and numbers)
I cant seem to find direction on if the base layer should be sanded level prior to applying the waterslides. And if so:
What grit?
Does the sanded clearcoat appear clear after the decal is applied?
I guess my fear is having a cloudy layer of sanded clearcoat under the clear parts of the decal on an insert.
If any post or other threads exist feel free to link or just let me know your experiences.
Thanks everyone
Leveling the playfield is mandatory before applying waterslide decals. if you apply the decals and then apply clear and try to level things up the decals will most probably be exposed and destroyed with sanding.
you can use a grit around 400 to 500 before every next layer of clear. decals will stick ok .
The underlying sanded clear-coat appears clear after the decal is applied and a subsequend layer of clear is also applied.
The decal in fact "melts" and all is left is the toner sandwiched b2in the 2 layers of clear-coat.
This is the reason that when applying clear-coat over decals you should go very light on the first coat , so as not to disrupt the integrity of the decals.
Quoted from phototamer:Leveling the playfield is mandatory before applying waterslide decals. if you apply the decals and then apply clear and try to level things up the decals will most probably be exposed and destroyed with sanding.
you can use a grit around 400 to 500 before every next layer of clear. decals will stick ok .
The underlying sanded clear-coat appears clear after the decal is applied and a subsequend layer of clear is also applied.
The decal in fact "melts" and all is left is the toner sandwiched b2in the 2 layers of clear-coat.
This is the reason that when applying clear-coat over decals you should go very light on the first coat , so as not to disrupt the integrity of the decals.
Perfect this is the confirmation I was looking for. Thanks!
Quoted from phototamer:This is the reason that when applying clear-coat over decals you should go very light on the first coat , so as not to disrupt the integrity of the decals.
I recommend more than one light coat. I put 3 light coats of clear on, then when I did a heavy coat it crinkled up, from the heat generated I guess
FFADAFEA-CE22-4B2A-9146-0C68B420CBD8 (resized).jpegQuoted from mark532011:I recommend more than one light coat. I put 3 light coats of clear on, then when I did a heavy coat it crinkled up, from the heat generated I guess[quoted image]
I did 3 playfields and nothing like this ever happened. Maybe a certain type of clear is not compatible with a certain type of decal.
Did you allow the recommended flash time before applying subsequent clear coats ?
I used Spraymax2K. This was the result after applying the decal and then 3 light coats, waiting a day then sanding. It looked good. So I waited another day and did a thick coat. Another area I did a similar decal on did not crinkle up. So I am assuming its just a thickness issue, I must have sanded it a bit too much before the thick coat of clear.
DSC00226-cropped (resized).jpgQuoted from mark532011:I used Spraymax2K. This was the result after applying the decal and then 3 light coats, waiting a day then sanding. It looked good. So I waited another day and did a thick coat. Another area I did a similar decal on did not crinkle up. So I am assuming its just a thickness issue, I must have sanded it a bit too much before the thick coat of clear.[quoted image]
The decal didnt adhere.
Maybe use decal fluid and adhesion promoter.
Any thoughts on how to fill these gaps around the inserts prior to clear coating? Almost every insert on the playfield has this kind of space around it. Thinking maybe a syringe full of paint. Maybe super glue. Just don’t want to deal with dripping clear with an eye dropper with gaps that wide after laying down the first coat.
0B2D154A-A88B-4C68-9C99-74CF889A2718 (resized).jpeg4B00EE88-CBD4-48A5-98DC-ECD215412110 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from mrm_4:Thinking maybe a syringe full of paint.
What’s wrong with a syringe full of clear?
Quoted from bssbllr:What’s wrong with a syringe full of clear?
I was just going to use SprayMax I tried spraying that stuff in a jar last time and it doesn’t work so well. I might use a different brand of clear just to fill the gaps with a needle and syringe
Quoted from mrm_4:Any thoughts on how to fill these gaps around the inserts prior to clear coating? Thinking maybe a syringe full of paint. Maybe super glue. Just don’t want to deal with dripping clear with an eye dropper with gaps that wide after laying down the first coat.
Do not use super glue. Your playfield IS going to require more than one application of clear to level it out. You need to lay down a tack coat (a thin coat of clear) first. Wait about 10 minutes for the clear to flash. Then mix up a small batch of un-reduced clear (just the clear with harder, no reducer). Using an eye dropper, use the thicker small batch of clear that you just mixed and fill up those gaps. Wait about 10 mins and then repeat. Let that flash and then using your spray gun lay down a full coat (hammer coat) of clear. I would then let the playfield cure for about a least a week, then sand flat. Finish your touchups, and then re-clear.
Quoted from Tommy-dog:Do not use super glue. Your playfield IS going to require more than one application of clear to level it out. You need to lay down a tack coat (a thin coat of clear) first. Wait about 10 minutes for the clear to flash. Then mix up a small batch of un-reduced clear (just the clear with harder, no reducer). Using an eye dropper, use the thicker small batch of clear that you just mixed and fill up those gaps. Wait about 10 mins and then repeat. Let that flash and then using your spray gun lay down a full coat (hammer coat) of clear. I would then let the playfield cure for about a least a week, then sand flat. Finish your touchups, and then re-clear.
I planned on doing what you described but I’m using SprayMax so I’m not mixing batches. Guess I’ll just spray it in a jar and try to get enough to drip. Last time I did that the stuff was evaporating almost as quick as it was puddling up in the jar.
So I’ll lay the tack coat
While that’s doing it’s thing for 10 minutes I’ll be off to the side laying on the nozzle to get a decent amount, come back and hopefully be able to drip around the edges to fill the gaps on about 25 inserts then lay down the hammer coat
Sounds like an accident waiting to happen 
Quoted from mrm_4:I planned on doing what you described but I’m using SprayMax so I’m not mixing batches. Guess I’ll just spray it in a jar and try to get enough to drip. Last time I did that the stuff was evaporating almost as quick as it was puddling up in the jar.
So I’ll lay the tack coat
While that’s doing it’s thing for 10 minutes I’ll be off to the side laying on the nozzle to get a decent amount, come back and hopefully be able to drip around the edges to fill the gaps on about 25 inserts then lay down the hammer coat
Sounds like an accident waiting to happen
I’ve used SprayMax for three playfields with great success. Having said that I tried to fill inserts with it and it was a disaster. Think ridges and bubbles. I suggest buying some cheap two part clear from Amazon. Use it to fill your gaps and the SprayMax for the rest.
I also used SprayMax to fill (1) insert and then fill some cracks. The insert went ok. I used a wooden stick to transfer and place the material onto the insert.
The same method SUCKED for the cracks around the inserts.
I think the thick viscosity combined with the short work time made the crack repair too tall and required a lot of sanding. There were few bubbles though.
This is why I do not use SprayMax. I have tried several brands and types of automotive clear coats. I found high-solids 3-part clears to work the best. The 3-part clears allow you to control the flowability by adjusting the amount of reducer that is mixed.
All this being said is why I wanted to fill the gaps before laying the clear. I know I’ll have some leveling to do for sure. SprayMax will be fine for this with a couple of coats and sanding. I just know of the horror stories from trying to fill these gaps. I get what you’re saying Tommy-dog but I don’t have the gear to use what you use. Low end pin man over here.
Has anyone ever taken all of just Vid's posts from this thread and consolidated them into one file for download?
1 week later
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Has anyone ever taken all of just Vid's posts from this thread and consolidated them into one file for download?
You can click the little person silhouette link on any post to filter to just to that user:
pasted_image (resized).png
e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=vid1900
Quoted from ajfclark:You can click the little person silhouette link on any post to filter to just to that user:
[quoted image]
e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration?tu=vid1900
Thank you! I had no idea. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to show me that. : )
Murph
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Thank you! I had no idea. Greatly appreciate you taking the time to show me that. : )
Murph
You're welcome. It's not super obvious. I don't actually remember how I discovered it.
Someone should probably pin it in all of vid1900 's guide threads.
Quoted from ajfclark:Someone should probably pin it in all of vid1900 's guide threads.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-collected
I have that as a favorite.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-collected
I have that as a favorite.
Yeah, but the links in there don't filter down to just vid1900 's posts, nor mention that you can from what I can see?
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Has anyone ever taken all of just Vid's posts from this thread and consolidated them into one file for download?
Yes, bleargh did this a few years ago. It's on a dropbox folder linked from this post
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-pdf-version
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Has anyone ever taken all of just Vid's posts from this thread and consolidated them into one file for download?
Yes, but translated it in French to post it on French Forum to allow sharing in Molière's tongue... But are you interested? If yes you can MP me.
What is everyone's opinion on mylar for the shooter lane?
Perhaps this has been covered, or perhaps not (I'm not sure I want to try to read through all 6800 posts.) For the shooter lane, if you just want to protect it would mylar be a decent choice?
I have a NGG that has a really nice playfield, it almost looks like the machine was HUO before I bought it. I want to keep the shooter lane protected and was thinking mylar would be a quick easy fix for that. It doesn't get a ton of play, at least not like it would on route. It's in my personal collection so the amount of play is fairly limited.
I know there are other products like Cliffy's or other metal/plastic protectors. But I don't really like the look of Cliffy's and would think mylar would leave a nice clean look while protecting the shooter lane.
Quoted from mrm_4:Any thoughts on how to fill these gaps around the inserts prior to clear coating? Almost every insert on the playfield has this kind of space around it. Thinking maybe a syringe full of paint. Maybe super glue. Just don’t want to deal with dripping clear with an eye dropper with gaps that wide after laying down the first coat.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The best options, as others said, is clear. You don’t even need to “fill” them necessarily, just have a continuous surface between the insert and table. When I restored my FP (which it appears yours is as well), getting the surface smooth was achieved by putting on the “lockdown” coat of clear before doing any other restoration (after insets leveled/epoxied and original top coat removed). Then, using glass eyedroppers to drip 2PAC onto the insert. It won’t drip between, it will make a smooth surface. Sand this down as per vids instructions. It worked great for me. Later on, when you apply your decals, it will hide any appearance of gap under the clear.
1 week later
Quoted from Silverstreak02:I’m about to start wet sanding my playfield. What should I use to block off all the holes in the playfield? I don’t want the slurry to get into the wood or under the playfield.
Covered here:
Quoted from Silverstreak02:I’m about to start wet sanding my playfield. What should I use to block off all the holes in the playfield? I don’t want the slurry to get into the wood or under the playfield.
Dont worry about it.
Naptha and rapid prep rinses it all off. Maybe with the help of a tooth brush and a test tube brush
There is an inexpensive assortment if drill brushes at harbor freight. Comes with brass, steel and nylon brushes.
All the holes have to be cleared later befor assembly.
I use a .22 cal bore brush for clearcoat removal before assembly
I use rapid prep to kill all the silicones. Its also a great cleaner.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Dont worry about it.
Naptha and rapid prep rinses it all off. Maybe with the help of a tooth brush and a test tube brush
There is an inexpensive assortment if drill brushes at harbor freight. Comes with brass, steel and nylon brushes.
All the holes have to be cleared later befor assembly.
I use a .22 cal bore brush for clearcoat removal before assembly
I use rapid prep to kill all the silicones. Its also a great cleaner.
How about the holes that still have light sockets in them?
Quoted from Silverstreak02:How about the holes that still have light sockets in them?
Remove the mechs and harnesses.
They need to be inspected anyway.
Makes for a nice flat surface to sand and polish on.
It only takes minutes to remove and replace.
A couple hours at best.
Trust me, trying to do a good job takes less time to do it right.
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