Lots to sort through but should help with the learning curve:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silhouette-cameo-pinball-restorers-club

In my experience scans from the HP4670 are exact. I just airbrushed some text on a Bram Stoker's Dracula last night whose total width was about 12cm and my paint mask was sub-millimeter accurate. I will say though that small text is the hardest to accomplish with paint mask, e.g., the small pieces inside your letter "B". Another alternative to look at is custom dry rub-on transfer (https://customrubontransfers.com/) or waterslide.

Yes but once the paint is dry you can either use a razor blade or other means to erase what you don't need. I have done this on several playfields with fine details that were not perfect once painted but is easy to correct after the fact.

I have used a HP 4670 scanner with a Roland vinyl cutter and never had a scaling issue with the 4670 scan.

I've printed some of the original scans on paper using my laser printer just to check for sizing, and found that they were all a bit smaller than they should be. I just took one scan, zoomed in, and using GIMP measured the length of a straight black bar to be 7.44 cm. Using a rule, measured the actual line on the playfield to be 7.4 cm. zoomed in to 400x there's a bit of ambiguity in my scan masurements depending on which pixels I uses, so I believe the scan is indeed exact, and printing to paper is not. Makes me feel better.

So I'm guessing that if I go the vinyl cutter route, I can achieve enough accuracy to do do most of my masking. Damn, gotta buy another toy! LOL

I spend quite a bit of time figuring out which settings I need to set to get something to scale when printed. Lots of programs scale to fit when you don't think they are. Always use a chunk of image that is well within your page size while figuring it out.

I have a 4760 and I believe they are correct scans. Most cutters need calibrating. For example, my cuts were a millimeter to big over a 20 inch cut so I had to reduce the steps per motor by 3. Now my cuts are perfect.

Sounds like your print interface is changing the scale of your scan.

Vid linked to this site for fonts.

https://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont

Is there a way to laminate or clear a decal before applying it? For example, I have one insert on my TOM that is basically gone. Can I buy this set (ebay.com link: THEATRE OF MAGIC Pinball Machine Insert Decals ) and spray a clear coat on the decal first and then install it? I'd rather not try to clear it in the game. I was thinking my other option was putting some mylar over it. I figured I could carefully remove the rest of the decal with an xacto. I can't find these decals laminated anywhere, although it looks like they used to exist.

Don't try to clearcoat a sticker prior to application. I wouldn't mylar playfield stickers either. You're already adding a raised edge by going with stickers. Mylar would extend the life of the sticker but also increase the thickness. I would scan the sticker set prior to application so that you can easily make yourself waterslide decals in the future. Playfield stickers should hold up a good while if they are decent quality and you keep the playfield waxed and your balls fresh. When the stickers wear out, apply new ones or do a playfield restoration with paint, waterslide decals and clearcoat.

I always cover new target stickers with mylar to extend their life since thickness isn't an adverse issue on targets.

Thanks!

Has anyone ever just covered a whole playfield in mylar in lieu of clear? Like buy a sheet, apply it, and cut out the appropriate areas so you have 100% coverage.

Haven't done it personally since I always clearcoat my work, but I know that this is perfectly doable. Be sure to wax well before applying so you can more easily remove the mylar down the road. I would think though that if the playfield is old and kinda flakey that even with wax you risk potentially significant paint loss if/when you remove the mylar in the future. Note also that if you have done touch up work mylar will protect it but won't give the color saturation pop that clearcoat does.

Insert with clear coat bubbles (resized).png

What to do about inserts with clear bubbles/flaws below the surface? Keep sanding until I hit them? Scrape off with a chisel? When I wipe with naphtha they do not disappear so I think they are below the clear.

Thanks for all advice in absence of Vid!
More flaws (resized).png

clear has lost its adhesion and is lifting, possibly out-gassing of the insert.
Adhesion promoter is often used over plastic before clearing to keep this from happening.

I would try puncturing every single bubble with a scalpel or exacto knife and force 2PAC into the holes with a syringe.
Spin the knife like a drill point.

sand and buff off and do it again until its good enough.

It can yield good results if you are patient.

You used to get it that way from the factory.

They do not wax beforehand because the mylar doesnt stick to the wax and bubbles off.
This is why factory mylar is so hard to remove. Its down for good.

Its difficult to apply the whole sheet unless the surface is super flat. Still you can get bubbles.
And bubbles can appear afterwards.
But if you take your time and go slow and rub like crazy, sure, no wax however.

If you waxed the playfield expect less than stellar results.
the solvents in the wax will outgas and make bubbles.

Playfield protectors are what you are looking for these days.

To be clear this is the original playfield that I am touching up and will clear coat.

In that case scrape it off with a vertical chisel and drop in 2PAC.

Use adhesion promoter before the clear on plastic at least.
I just spray it all down with it. Its like water and dries fast.

I did many years ago... Down side the Mylar bubbled up in long streaks. The company had it stored
folded over and the Mylar wanted to go back to that configuration.

Williams and Bally playfields were made by Linc Smith, Sun Process and TAG. Before the playfields were screen printed they were primed with a sealer. What you are seeing in the pictures are the lost adhesion between the insert and the sealer. You can tell this because the screen printed text is above this layer. If you remove this sealer, the insert will lose its frosted look. The sealer was not clear and had a whitish tint to it. This lost of adhesion on the sealer is very common on playfields from this time period. Even NOS playfields will show signs of this.

Best to just leave it as-is then? I don't mind leaving it "imperfect" if trying to fix it will just make it worse! This is a Sun Process playfield.

I can't find much information on installing pre-printed decals. I bought the two decal sheets available for my TOM, the main illusion area and the insert decals. I have one insert that is completely gone, so that will be an easy install. These are self-adhesive, so I assume that is fine and I don't need to use clear to hold it down?

The main playfield area decal has the insert paint/writing on it already for the illusions so from what I've read I need to remove the original paint from the inserts so the light will shine through. What is the best way to do this with minimal damage to the rest of the playfield? I mean, I know it's getting covered but I'd rather do the least damage and the only thing I can think of is sanding.

Are there any other tips for using these self-adhering decals? I am not sure if I am going to install wet, I feel like that would be the best for me since I can take time and align it properly. But, maybe if I can see light through the inserts and decal I can tape it down in place and remove parts of the back covering as I squeege it down (like I've seen large vinyl decals installed)?

Finally, I am not planning on clear coating this playfield. It's not in that great of shape so this is a bit of a bandaid to keep it going. I am going to install a playfield protector from playfield-protectors.com. Is there anything I need to consider with this and the decals or can I just apply the protector on top of them and it's all good?

**Oh, also, the seller said the decals were coated. I am worried there might have been some language barriers to that but does it matter either way since I'm putting the protector over?

Personally, I would just replace the playfield with the Mirco one.

Even the best stick on decals look dim compared to the other inserts, even with brighter leds.

After all the expense and work to bandaid your existing one it will still look rough.

ToM is one of the most difficult playfields to restore.

Super high end restorers like Chris at HEP wont do a ToM, especially now that a new playfield is available. Even if it's just slight cracking at the book insert edges.

It's just impossible to get it perfect and look right.

I had this same issue myself and finally bought a new ToM playfied and had it clearcoated by ron kruzman.

It's perfect and my game looks better than when it was new.

It was well worth the expense.

And had the wireforms replated.
And a new plastics set.

The problem is the game isn't in good enough shape to support a brand new playfield. And the playfield isn't that bad that it's worth tossing. Cabinet has some dings, so I'd want to re-decal it. Head has some dings, so I'd have to fill and paint... I had to end up replacing the ramps and I'm going to do something with the wireforms (and probably the lockdown/legs/rails) either plated or powdered. I just had to get new plastics set too because a few that I need aren't available anywhere. So, for about 1/4 the price I am going to do what I can to retain this playfield as long as I can. One missing insert isn't really worth it...and frankly, the main illusion area is good enough that I could just leave it. There is only the slightest bit of wear around the inserts. I figured as long as I was doing the other insert and putting a protector on I might as well do the main area. It's freaking dim as it is already so how much worse could it be? I really can't justify $1100 on a playfield right now.

***edit... Damnit.. now you're making me reconsider. I just bought $250 worth of "invisible" glass too. Have the indestructible trunk. Argh

I look at the whole package as far as restoration.

do I want it minty fresh?

Do I want it super high end?
Will I enjoy it more with a $500 brass door? (I wont...)

Am I going to play the game or just look at it?

Personally, I play my games but enjoy them more if they play and look like new.

So, $2500 turns a beater game into a new one with a little effort and new parts where it matters.

The playfield is the most.important part.

It's worth it to me.

I don't know, you're advocating replacing a playfield because one insert is missing. Doesn't equate for me. Plus I am doing a playfield swap (with a used playfield) on my JP right now, not ready to do another right now.

If you're overwhelmed with projects and don't want to spend the extra money right now I'd leave the playfield alone for the moment. Swap the playfield with a new one later. I too think you're already deep enough into this that it doesn't make sense to cut a corner on the most important part.

Meh, already have the parts on the way. I can't see the harm in installing now even if I'm going to replace the playfield later.

Still looking for answers to my questions.

Damnit... now I'm talking with Mirco. You persuasive bastards. My wife is going to be less than excited, lol. But this is her game, so maybe she'll be pleasantly surprised. Now the question is can I boogie through my JP playfield swap before the Mirco arrives.

You might want to wait until Mirco makes a batch of the TAG version playfields. His (Mirco) current offering is just the Sun Process version colors. Most USA TOM games had the TAG playfield and the oversea TOM games had the Sun Process playfields. Most people like the colors on the TAG Theatre of Magic playfields better. There is a post somewhere on Pinside about this I remember reading.

Yeah, I read it and saw all the comparison photos. I was not aware he was going to make the TAG version. I'll ask him timing on that.

I was told by Mirco that he did aquire a TAG version Theatre of Magic playfield and he does plan on making them sometime in the future.

He says he is working on it, 5 weeks. I'm looking at getting in on that.

Happy wife, happy life...

I have a diamondcoat getaway that has several sections of Mylar with dirty edges. It looks like the edges of it are slightly lifted so dirt accumulated underneath. What would be my best way to clean it? Can I remove the Mylar if I have diamondcoat clear underneath?

858E14C5-0596-4D4B-BCD9-DDFD9839C35C (resized).jpeg

8A61E0D2-2613-4C31-8EF1-FED130CB4E80 (resized).jpeg

You can remove mylar, however, if the rest of it is in good shape , why not just cut back the Mylar a bit. Clean it, wax it and call it done.

Looks like multiple layers of mylar !
Time to remove and start over.

Isn't it just where 2 pieces meet?

Its possible but in one area it looks like 3 seams.
Like new mylar was put over the old.

All production Getaway games have a Diamond Plate playfield. I would just remove the mylar. The freeze spray method works best on this title.

Can I get a bit of insight into the waterslide situation? Specifically a new/old playfield for JP I got was missing the "S" in "CHAOS" insert. I had a donor playfield that I attempted to cut around the insert and remove it using the methods here, which worked fine but the "decal" with the lettering on it flaked away from the insert. I don't know if this was a decal originally, but I have a circular piece of transparent (slightly yellow) material with the S and a black border that came away from the insert. I saved it, hoping to glue it down with clear but it's looking a little bad (is cracked a bit). I still might attempt using it, since I think the clear might mend the crack but I wanted to look into the water slide option.

Is this good stuff? (20 sheets thinner film) https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyscopa-Urethane-Transfer-Transparent-sheets/dp/B07L5829GY/ref=sr_1_2

While I'm doing that, I have another insert that had some ghosting from pulling up mylar (the one issue with a lot of mylar removal, argh!). I have some smaller needles from giving my dog shots, I'm wondering if SprayMax is as thick as regular auto clear? I read about needing a larger needle to inject and all I can find on amazon are blunt needles, but I am guessing sharp tip would be preferred. I saw the vendor posted but it seems like their options are expensive. I can't really test this since I only have one can of clear and if it doesn't work I can only make the can last so long in the fridge. Another thought I had was I could just remove that insert decal and replace it since I might be doing waterslide anyhow. This alleviates the need for needles and it sounds like I can just lay down a bit of clear on the inserts, lay down the water slides and clear the whole thing. Am I understanding that correctly?

Which is the best way for me, a relative novice in playfield restoration? I am somewhat apprehensive about the waterslide option, that I could match the fonts and layout well enough.. although I already scanned and re-created the S in photoshop. Then again, I also question if I can get the existing decals to lay down again with clear injection, never having done it before and not really having a way to practice. I would think the waterslide route would be more forgiving, I can just redo them if they don't look good (before I clear over).

I have never done waterside because I fear they will fade. They are done by others here all the time but I am still uncertain.

Fade factor would depend in large part on the print type. I can't speak to the long term performance of black laser toner but I would not trust color laser toner to last since we are talking about synthetics that are not manufactured for archival stability. All inkjet prints will fade unless you are using a special art printer shooting archival pigment inks (what I use because I happen to have one on hand for other purposes).

The other factor is the waterslide material itself. Will it turn amber in 20-30 years? Maybe, maybe not. UV light exposure levels will be a variable and a potential factor. The fact that the material is sandwiched between two layers of automotive clearcoat would seem to virtually eliminate oxygen and ozone as factors.

All of that said, I use waterslides. There's no other practical way to restore some super fine details. I get incredible, vibrant results in both black and color with Epson K3 inks. I predict there will be no deterioration of them in my lifetime.

Thanks for that response.
I agree that in some cases that there simply is no other way to get the detail you need.
I have been lucky that I have not run into this yet.
I also agree that in most cases , based on where and how I keep my machines, they would not likely fade in my lifetime either.

Cut a stencil with a vinyl cutter.

And then what? Use my non-existent magic airbrush and non-exisent skill to paint a semi-transparent consistent layer of black to make it match the decals right next to it? That sounds like it would only work if a lot of luck was involved.

No luck about it! The whole point of a stencil is to take the "skill" out of it Airbrush is ideal, but technically you could brush it on if you wanted. Also, airbrushes are very inexpensive. The HF kit is $20 and goes on sale even, and there are countless others on Amazon for $10-$30.

It's a semi-transparent letter... it's not solid black. The light shines through it. I have no experience doing this.. why not waterslide? That's what OP suggests?