Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration


By vid1900

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,483 posts
  • 617 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Mathazar
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Topic index (key posts)

142 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 6483 posts in this topic. You are on page 130 of 130.
#6451 13 days ago

Red Loctite is permanent (needs heat to remove)

Blue Loctite is medium strength

#6452 13 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You can get Dye for polyester clothing and just dye those inserts any shade you want

I'm assuming you use the "soak in boiling water dye/mix" technique?

If I dye the insert and match the color, then sand the dye flat to the top of the playfield (after clamping/epoxy), sanding will remove that dye color... I assume.

Thoughts?

#6453 13 days ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

I'm assuming you use the "soak in boiling water dye/mix" technique?
If I dye the insert and match the color, then sand the dye flat to the top of the playfield (after clamping/epoxy), sanding will remove that dye color... I assume.
Thoughts?

The dye seems to go about ~1.5mm deep, but don't even risk it.

Flatten your inserts BEFORE you dye them.

#6454 12 days ago

4 packs of IRWIN quick grip 6" clamps are on sale today @ Amazon for $17.99 (that's ~1/2 off)

If there is one thing you can never have too many of, it's quality clamps

amazon.com link »

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#6455 12 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

4 packs of IRWIN quick grip 6" clamps are on sale today @ Amazon for $17.99 (that's ~1/2 off)
If there is one thing you can never have too many of, it's quality clamps
amazon.com link »[quoted image]

Thanks, I need a set of these.

#6456 9 days ago

How thick is clear coat on modern reproduction playfield compared to NOS diamond clear coated playfield?

#6457 9 days ago

What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?
Surface was prepped and cleaned as this guide instructs.
Temp of pf and 2pac were equal at approx 70F
No noticable problems occurred during initial sanding after about 4 days of cure, only upon removing frisket from first airbrush touch ups did the clear begin to come off in sheets.

Thoughts on remedy, sand down and just start over?

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#6458 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?
Surface was prepped and cleaned as this guide instructs.
Temp of pf and 2pac were equal at approx 70F
No noticable problems occurred during initial sanding after about 4 days of cure, only upon removing frisket from first airbrush touch ups did the clear begin to come off in sheets.
Thoughts on remedy, sand down and just start over?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Was the original surface sanded to provide tooth?

#6459 9 days ago
Quoted from tezting:

How thick is clear coat on modern reproduction playfield compared to NOS diamond clear coated playfield?

One repro manufacturer puts it on so thick that I've had to sand it back to make the mechs level with the surface.

Usually the Diamondplate stuff is thin, which is why every well routed TAF, MM, or AFM is worn to bare wood.

#6460 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?

Bad mix ratio

Gun contaminated with "fish eye reducer"

Bad 2PAC

Trap on air compressor full

Shop rags contaminated with dryer sheets

Mixed in reactive plastic cup

?

#6461 9 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Bad mix ratio - no, mine is 4 to 1 and I mixed using medicine cups

Gun contaminated with "fish eye reducer" - do not own any

Bad 2PAC- does it expire? Same gallon I've used on previous project

Trap on air compressor full - self draining

Shop rags contaminated with dryer sheets - oh shit, maybe

Mixed in reactive plastic cup - negative

Based on possible items above, remedy?

#6462 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Based on possible items above, remedy?

If you can peel it off, get rid of it, lightly sand with 500g, and shoot again.

#6463 9 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

What could cause and how to fix peeling 2PAC?
Surface was prepped and cleaned as this guide instructs.
Temp of pf and 2pac were equal at approx 70F
No noticable problems occurred during initial sanding after about 4 days of cure, only upon removing frisket from first airbrush touch ups did the clear begin to come off in sheets.
Thoughts on remedy, sand down and just start over?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I suspect this is why some guys shoot a layer of adhesion promoter before the first coat of clear.

#6464 9 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Bad mix ratio
Gun contaminated with "fish eye reducer"
Bad 2PAC
Trap on air compressor full
Shop rags contaminated with dryer sheets
Mixed in reactive plastic cup
?

So do you not recommend fish eye reducer? I have used it for years with no issues.

#6466 9 days ago

Hi—

I hope I am not breaking rules by posting this here.

I recently acquired a Stern High Roller Casino pinball machine. I have it working 100%, but when cleaning the playfield I decided to remove a damaged piece of mylar between the bumpers. But when I did this, the clear surface and paint came up on the play field and on an insert. My son and I are very sad, because we have this machine humming, but stupid Dad (me) couldn't leave well enough alone. I am posting a before and after image, as well as the piece of mylar with paint. Any advice or commiseration would be appreciated! I can fix anything mechanical, but my artistic skills are pretty non-existent.

Aside from this, the pinball machine is in great shape.

Many thanks!

Larry M.

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#6467 9 days ago
Quoted from lmarchese:

but when cleaning the playfield I decided to remove a damaged piece of mylar between the bumpers. But when I did this, the clear surface and paint came up on the play field and on an insert.

There is a saying in pinball.

"NEVER remove Mylar unless you are clearcoating the playfield"

For now, wax the area and put a new patch of Mylar down.

Latter, you can take the playfield apart and do a proper repair.

#6468 9 days ago

Newbie here...looking for some guidance. I'm prepping my Mata Hari playfield for a hardtop install. I've got the inserts and surrounding areas sanded down, but also had to sand an area near/under the apron to get rid of a blemish on the art that the hardtop will replace. That sanded area is a bit whiter than the rest of the wood area. I put some napthia on it, and it looked ok before it evaporated so I sprayed some Krylon clear on it. Look pretty good for a few hours, but overnight it was back to slightly white again. Some of this wood area will be seen thru the hard top, so I want it to look ok.

How do I remedy this? I'm thinking I'll need to:

1 - Sand all of the areas of natural wood so it's consistent. What grit do I use on my orbital sander to do this? 220?
2 - Apply polyurethane. I'm not equipped (equipment or skillz) for 2PAC so I'm hoping I can get away with poly in a rattle can. Which one? Minwax semi-gloss oil based ok?
3 - I'm assuming the wood will look not white/a bit yellowy after drying, correct?
4 - After applying poly, do I sand again? What grit?
5 - Next step then is spraying clear? I'm using Krylon Colormaxx General Purpose Flat Crystal Clear Spray. Would something else be recommended?
6 - After clear cures, sand again? What grit?

Thank you....

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#6469 9 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I've got the inserts and surrounding areas sanded down

It looks like many inserts are cupped, and there is still old lacquer stuck to them.

Light the inserts up from behind and see if you can still see the old material, if so, remove it by scraping (you won't be able to sand it down to the bottom of the depression, without sanding through the insert)

Read this first, before you go any further:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet

You need to repair the missing wood in the saucer and shooter lane before you get too far ahead of yourself.

#6470 8 days ago

Thanks! I wish I had known that rule! I would not have touched the area if the mylar wasn’t bubbled up and curling on the edges. Since the rest of the play field is in excellent shape, is there no way to do a spot repair, like with a decal, without disassembling the entire play field? Are there people who make decals like this? I am new at this... thanks!

#6471 8 days ago
Quoted from lmarchese:

Since the rest of the play field is in excellent shape, is there no way to do a spot repair, like with a decal, without disassembling the entire play field? Are there people who make decals like this? I am new at this... thanks!

If you can find someone who can make a scan for you, otherwise, you would need to remove the mechs from around the area to scan it.

#6472 8 days ago

I filled several inserts last night with 2pac. Today I noticed a couple of them are still a little cupped. How long do I need to wait before I can fill them again? This is for a 77 Jacks Open.

#6474 7 days ago

Unfortunately not cost effective to make a few decals... I mentioned this to a guy who was in business printing reproduction decals for rockets, but his last Alps printer croaked with no one to repair it. He said he looked at it but it wasn't cost effective even to make a business out of.

#6475 6 days ago

I'm having trouble determining which parts are plated, steel or stainless steel. I have some Everbrite to use for protection on any plated or raw steel parts that I clean, but how do I know what is what? I'm pretty sure ball guides are stainless, but not sure about various metal posts and especially much of the hardware on the underside of the playfield.

Is there a guideline for what I should concern myself with protecting after an ultrasonic cleaning, tumble and/or buff?

#6476 5 days ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I'm having trouble determining which parts are plated, steel or stainless steel. I have some Everbrite to use for protection on any plated or raw steel parts that I clean, but how do I know what is what? I'm pretty sure ball guides are stainless, but not sure about various metal posts and especially much of the hardware on the underside of the playfield.
Is there a guideline for what I should concern myself with protecting after an ultrasonic cleaning, tumble and/or buff?

Stainless won’t be oxidized and cloudly.... the zinc plated stuff will be dull and matte looking - like galvanized. Even polished the zinc plated stuff will look dull unless the plating is sanded off.

Pretty much only posts and ball guides would be stainless. Plates and brackets are normally always plated in games games since the 80’s.

#6477 5 days ago

Hello vid, I have read all your topic, I am taking courage to remove myolar ...
As you can see the painting is all cracked where it does not have myolar protecting.
I wanted to remove the myolar and do the entire restoration process but I'm afraid that all the ink out of the inserts will come out. and what should I do to lower the inserts?
In the latter case what to do to restore the cracked paint without removing the myolar ...

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#6478 4 days ago

I am working on a BSD. So one interesting thing is that I have removed mylar and underneath is nice shiny clear coat. Looks like the day it was made. Everywhere else (and I mean everywhere that was not covered by a post or rail -- under plastics and areas the ball would never go) is uniformly dull. Almost looks like exposure to air just ate away the clear coat over time. Just wondering if this is a normal phenomenon. Note: the scan is before mylar removal. Overall though I think the playfield is in decent shape.

A few questions! These images are after a good cleaning with naphtha but nothing else.

How level should inserts be? I have a 0.002" strip of spring steel, the inserts that feel slightly raised are no more than this. I will clear this playfield with SprayMax 2K.

There are various spots where assemblies had rust and there is rust really bonded to the playfield. Suggestions on how to remove it?

Rusty Spot (resized).png

Suggestions on how to clean general grunge on the playfield? ME + alcohol? Sand it with 600 grit to remove surface junk before clear?

general grunge (resized).png

Anything that can be done with this ball trail? Looks like a previous owner maybe caused some planking when trying to clean it:

ball trail (resized).png

The wood is dirty and a little eaten away here. Is this practical to fix or is it best to just leave it?

switch (resized).png

Any other observations are welcome!

Scan of the entire playfield. There are some artifacts from stitching it using Microsoft ICE...but I don't have Photoshop.

https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/09qyBJ8I-xWirloHbXUtUgbzg#bsd50

#6479 20 hours ago

I’m trying to understand the need to sand original art off on a hard top install.

If you put down a layer of clear, does it really matter? As long as it’s flat.

#6480 19 hours ago

Since Vid seems to be on hiatus (hopefully a well deserved vacation!) I'll answer one of my own inquiries.

I tried several things to remove the rust stuck to the playfield: pulling it off with duct tape (got maybe 5-10%); magic eraser (nope); chisel-blade exacto knife; single-edged razor blade; naval jelly -- all a no-go.

Finally had success with one of these: amazon.com link »

Pretty neat tool used by modellers, you can just rotate the belt to a fresh piece and because it is small you have very fine control.

#6481 16 hours ago

This might be a pretty stupid question. I'm trying to clean and strip a playfield and I'm wondering how to get the wodden "frame" of the playfield off? The left, wooden rail of the shooter lane was screwed on from the back, so no problem, but the frame pieces don't have screws on the back. Are they nailed on the playfield from the back? If so, what is my best option to get them off? Pulling on the painted wood with pliers seems not optimal.

#6482 14 hours ago
Quoted from Frogger1108:

This might be a pretty stupid question. I'm trying to clean and strip a playfield and I'm wondering how to get the wodden "frame" of the playfield off? The left, wooden rail of the shooter lane was screwed on from the back, so no problem, but the frame pieces don't have screws on the back. Are they nailed on the playfield from the back? If so, what is my best option to get them off? Pulling on the painted wood with pliers seems not optimal.

Stapled probably.

If so, wiggle the wooden rail side to side until you can get something underneath to pry it up. Then hammer the staples down low enough that you can grab them from the bottom side with some end cutting pliers and pull them out.

#6483 12 hours ago
Quoted from frisbez:

Stapled probably.
If so, wiggle the wooden rail side to side until you can get something underneath to pry it up. Then hammer the staples down low enough that you can grab them from the bottom side with some end cutting pliers and pull them out.

frogger1108 - when you reassemble, consider using screws instead of re-stapling. Some Bally machines I've seen that were stapled actually had screw holes pre-drilled (empty) on the frames, right next to the staples. Probably a MFG cost-cutting move at the time.

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