Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Thanks vid!
What about something like this?
amazon.com link »
Looks great.
Although the NPO SAR 101 is much scarier looking, nuclear rated, and only $69
If your wife likes to roleplay......
s-l400 (resized).jpg
ebay.com link: Nuclear Power Outfitters SAR101 Supplied Air Respirator NPO SAR 101 Bubble Hood
I believe this is the same mask Vid just recommended - but via Amazon for those of us with prime shipping and 5% cashback amazon cards 
I'll feel a lot safer rocking this when I'm cleaning my planked playfields with Naptha...
https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_3
I have a WCS94 with some severe insert damage. This is a players machine so I'm not looking to make a perfect repair. I just want to fill in this large area of clear coat that has chipped off because a slow rolling ball can get stuck in it. Then I'm putting a whole play field mylar sheet to stop any more chipping from happening. What is the best way to fill in this chipped area?
IMG_6748 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jakers:I have a WCS94 with some severe insert damage. This is a players machine so I'm not looking to make a perfect repair. I just want to fill in this large area of clear coat that has chipped off because a slow rolling ball can get stuck in it. Then I'm putting a whole play field mylar sheet to stop any more chipping from happening. What is the best way to fill in this chipped area?
[quoted image]
That insert looks like it's moving (see how it's cracking along the edge?), so I'd glue it from the rear with Epoxy.
Then I'd use some 220 sandpaper and rough up the plastic, fill about 1/2 way with 2PAC, sand with 400grit, repaint the missing graphic, and fill to the top with 2PAC.
I got a JP that had alot of wear around the T-rex hole and the shooter lane. Thanks to KwikWood and sanding its now smooth and its time to paint and clear, which will be the first time for me. Im just gonna spot clear, not doing the entire playfield.
But.
With me living in a small apartment (and no garage) with my girlfriend and our son I can not use 2PAC.
So what should I use instead? Is there a "second best" alternative?
I guess aersol cans would be a better choice than brushing it on?
Living in Sweden im pretty sure my choice of brand's are limited, but could "Molotow Premium Clear" or "Krylon Crystal Clear" work? Or are there better alternative out there (not counting 2PAC)?
Quoted from vid1900:Spot clear usually chips up in a few months.
I'd just wax, then put some Mylar over the repair
Really? Even with 2PAC?
Hmm, I feel that the area might be a bit too large (and uneven) for using mylar effectively
The plan was to paint and clear the wood colored area.
DSC_0200 (resized).JPG
Quoted from Wiggy:Really? Even with 2PAC?
Hmm, I feel that the area might be a bit too large (and uneven) for using mylar effectivelyThe plan was to paint and clear the wood colored area.
It's just like spot clearing a car.
It always peels at the edge of the repair.
--
I've tried Clearcoat Adhesion Promoter, reverse feathering, UV cure; the edge is always the weakpoint.
If you absolutely want to try a spot clear, hit it with Bulldog and cross your fingers
bulldog-adhesive-promoter-large-can (resized).pngQuoted from vid1900:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1670975
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/workwear-safety-gear/personal-protective-equipment/respirators-dust-masks/3m-trade-medium-paint-project-respirator-with-quick-latch-mask/6502qlpa1-a-ps/p-1495520426214-c-13847.htm?tid=3183367752137348257&ipos=7
Vid, the cartridges that come standard with this, are they safe to use with 2PAC??
Quoted from vid1900:Of course double check every time you buy, but yes, those are rated for isocynates.
Do you recommend P100 if given a choice? Both rated for isocynates.
Thought I'd chime in here with a tip since this thread has been such a fount of good info for me: hardwood flooring or Pergo samples from Home Depot or Lowes make great clamping blocks for leveling raised inserts. They're hard, flat, and free. Cut to overlap your insert, knock down the edges on the playfield side, and drill a depression with a 1" Forstner bit so your clamp doesn't walk around.
OK, so: I have installed new inserts in my F-14, have had an initial clear layer sprayed down, which was level sanded and then recoated, I have done all my paint apps, had another layer of clear put down, and while the finisher was at it I had him eyedropper in extra clear in the spots around any inserts which were still a touch low.
I just finished level sanding the whole playfield down with 400 grit on a rubber backed drywall sander, got everything to a very nice, even, matte finish, but...the white touch ups I did around the slingshots actually burned through. Pretty sure this is due to the edges of the sanding pad hitting all those holes right around the slings, but it's made me nervous about doing my waterslide decals (the next step before the final clear coat). It seems to me that there should still be plenty of clear on the playfield; burn through was isolated to the slings and everything else looks and feels very smooth. It *seems* to me that it should be safe to proceed, but I'm writing in here to see if I have your permission to go ahead.
IMG_20180820_180352 (resized).jpgIMG_20180820_180505 (resized).jpgIMG_20180820_182451 (resized).jpgFinally ready to glue a few inserts tonight. I've removed as much of the existing glue as possible, but there's still some left as it's tough to get into that thin crevice underneath with any kind of tool. These haven't been popped out of the playfield, so I'm just adding glue from below, and I won't be clearing the playfield, just adding a protector. What's the best way to add the epoxy underneath, just slather it along where the edge of the insert meets the wood, then clamp? Should I try roughening the inner surface of the plastic to give the epoxy more to grab onto (tough to do but I can scratch it a little with the tip of an Xacto). I assume I shouldn't to slosh any epoxy onto the bottom surface of the insert or it will be visible when the lamp is on.
Quoted from jibmums:Finally ready to glue a few inserts tonight. I've removed as much of the existing glue as possible, but there's still some left as it's tough to get into that thin crevice underneath with any kind of tool. These haven't been popped out of the playfield, so I'm just adding glue from below, and I won't be clearing the playfield, just adding a protector.
If you stand the playfield up on end, the epoxy will stay on the edge, and not flow into the face of the insert.
A Dremel is good to rough up the plastic.
Quoted from jibmums:I assume I shouldn't to slosh any epoxy onto the bottom surface of the insert or it will be visible when the lamp is on.
Exactly.
Although sometimes you have an insert that is totally fractured (like an F14 I'm clearing right now).
Epoxy turns yellow, so you can fill the insert will a little 2PAC - It will stay clear, and reinforce the insert
Quoted from vid1900:If you stand the playfield up on end, the epoxy will stay on the edge, and not flow into the face of the insert.
A Dremel is good to rough up the plastic.
A dremel, I did not consider that. Wire brush attachment? That'll work great for those large, rectangular inserts (it's a Terminator 2) but the arrow inserts I'll have to roughen manually.
Excellent thread - appreciate all the knowledge exchanged here!
What is the best way to restore this shooter lane to its former glory?
It has needed quite some sanding to get out the worst parts of the damage.
What are now the next steps to build it up again?
- 2k wood filler to level it up
- sand it to blend in
- clearcoat the shooter lane
- paint the wood structure
- final clearcoat, sand and polish
Is this the way to do it or any other suggestion, tipps, hints?
Many thanks!
20180819_095655 (resized).jpgQuoted from mastercello:sand it to blend in
I think it's the best choice.
Wood epoxy won't hold up there.
Not enough surface for it to grab onto.
I have not seen it yet but it seems that some sort of large cliffy protector that one could cut to shape might be a good solution for those areas that you cant fix.
Got my F-14 ready for final clear today.
A word on waterslide decals: I had to make several attempts to get decals that were anywhere near dark enough from my local print shop. Possibly a hoby shop would be better for this, as they might "get" what you're after more immediately.
One way you can go is to have your decals run through the printer *twice* to bump up the opacity, which worksa dn results in a blacker decal, but you can get very minor misalignment on the second printing. As a chronic obsessive, I am of course now wondering if I should have used the double printed sheet I had rather than the single printed one, but screw it, I'm committed now.
Next time I may just have to invest in a better laser printer at home. Sucks to have to run around and waste decal paper trying to get something very specific from a printer that isn't really about this sort of thing. No slam on the people at the shop, it's just an unusual request which falls outside the realm of what they typically do.
Vid has posted tons of good pics of F-14 restoration, but I'm posting these as an illustration of why you don't need to worry too much about what the immediate outline around your inserts looks like. The keylining is fat and will cover the rough edge/paint loss.
IMG_20180821_165619 (resized).jpgIMG_20180821_171719 (resized).jpgShooter lane: I wasn't happy with the result of my frisket and airbrushing attempt, so I tried another method. I used a small brush and simply applied a few layers of transparent sand color to the dirty, ridge-y area so common on sys11 games. This softened the ugliest area somewhat and to my eye was way more acceptable than the hard edged line I was getting with my prior attempt. Once the rails and a Cliffy are reinstalled, this will look plenty acceptable to me.
IMG_20180813_213932 (resized).jpgIMG_20180821_173935 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:I think it's the best choice.
Wood epoxy won't hold up there.
Not enough surface for it to grab onto.
I have not seen it yet but it seems that some sort of large cliffy protector that one could cut to shape might be a good solution for those areas that you cant fix.
Cheers, I sanded it already...the picture above shows the actual state.
The picture here below is before sanding...now there is wood missing.
I guess i cannot leave it like this because it will not work fine.
Thats why I asked what are the next and best steps to correct it.
Many thanks
20180815_132237 (resized).jpgQuoted from sethbenjamin:Next time I may just have to invest in a better laser printer at home.
If you guys are just doing black, an old HP Laserjet III is probably $25 on CL
Inside the shell there is a green knob with an arrow, turn it CW for crazy dark prints.
Aftermarket toner carts are $12
Quoted from mastercello:Cheers, I sanded it already...the picture above shows the actual state.
The picture here below is before sanding...now there is wood missing.
I guess i cannot leave it like this because it will not work fine.
Thats why I asked what are the next and best steps to correct it.
Many thanks[quoted image]
Cliffy's will cover that.
Fill the right side dont worry about the left.
Just clean and paint over it.
Sand to a smooth transition.
It's a shooter lane the ball will travel just fine.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Got my F-14 ready for final clear today.
A word on waterslide decals: I had to make several attempts to get decals that were anywhere near dark enough from my local print shop. Possibly a hoby shop would be better for this, as they might "get" what you're after more immediately.
One way you can go is to have your decals run through the printer *twice* to bump up the opacity, which worksa dn results in a blacker decal, but you can get very minor misalignment on the second printing. As a chronic obsessive, I am of course now wondering if I should have used the double printed sheet I had rather than the single printed one, but screw it, I'm committed now.
Next time I may just have to invest in a better laser printer at home. Sucks to have to run around and waste decal paper trying to get something very specific from a printer that isn't really about this sort of thing. No slam on the people at the shop, it's just an unusual request which falls outside the realm of what they typically do.
Vid has posted tons of good pics of F-14 restoration, but I'm posting these as an illustration of why you don't need to worry too much about what the immediate outline around your inserts looks like. The keylining is fat and will cover the rough edge/paint loss.[quoted image][quoted image]
In a similar situation I slapped another decal on top , and got a really deep opaque black .
You will have to apply a thicker layer of 2pac ( 2 subsequent layers) afterwards and sand down to take care of the raised decals.
Quoted from vid1900:Pull the Frisket off and clear over the paint (maybe the whole playfield if you are efficient).
Remember, we never want to apply a waterslide decal to the bare paint, or directly to a plastic insert.
The reason is that you don't want the tension of the clear coat to be different on the topside of the decal than it is underneath.
You run the risk of ghosting if you just stick the decal to the insert plastic.
I've never had an insert decal ghost that has been applied on top of clear coat, then coated over.
Don't take a shortcut here - do it right.
[quoted image]
Here is the waterslide decal applied .
Bring up an old post. You mention installing the water decal over a clear coat then clear again. Are you talking between a Createx transparent base clear product or the 2 pac clear product?
Quoted from wolffcub:Bring up an old post. You mention installing the water decal over a clear coat then clear again. Are you talking between a Createx transparent base clear product or the 2 pac clear product?
I usually shoot a thin "lock down" layer of 2PAC (after cleaning and touching up insert keylines).
This let's me frisket without pulling up the original paint, lets me see if there are craters around the inserts that need filling with an eyedropper, and gives me a smooth surface that waterslides will stick to.
Quoted from vid1900:I usually shoot a thin "lock down" layer of 2PAC (after cleaning and touching up insert keylines).
This let's me frisket without pulling up the original paint, lets me see if there are craters around the inserts that need filling with an eyedropper, and gives me a smooth surface that waterslides will stick to.
I do have some minor inset areas around a few inserts, so I will finish up on the background graphics first then clear with 2pac as you suggest prior to doing the text. Next stupid question, you mention "thin" layer so I'm going to assume you actually have this product in a 2 part mix and not the puncture rattle can as to not waste a full can for just a thin quick coat. I cant seem to find the actual spray max in a separate 2 part containers. Is there a substitute product or do I need to quickly be ready with a dropper after the thin coat to fix any areas prior to the first can expiring in 48 hours?
or do I just assume I need 3 or more cans as its normal to expect some wastage?
Quoted from wolffcub:Sorry my bad i see your post now on actual names of 2pac products.
You will save $$$$$$ by buying the 2 separate components, rather than buying the rattle cans.
...and no waste, if you need an eyedropper full, mix an eyedropper worth of clear.
looking in local shops here in my areas they cant seem to get the omni product or any PPG product. A supplier is suggesting the link below.
http://www.u-pol.com/us/en/product/system-20/coatings/clearcoats/21-clearcoat-21-voc-2
They said i can still select my hardener type so i can get a slow to med cure time. Any experience with this product or is it possible to see what you think of the specs on it.
Quoted from wolffcub:looking in local shops here in my areas they cant seem to get the omni product or any PPG product. A supplier is suggesting the link below.
http://www.u-pol.com/us/en/product/system-20/coatings/clearcoats/21-clearcoat-21-voc-2
They said i can still select my hardener type so i can get a slow to med cure time. Any experience with this product or is it possible to see what you think of the specs on it.
http://www.u-pol.com/files/2346/up2842a-TDS-EN
I don't know anything about it, but I hope some of the auto guys will chine in!
vid1900 Quick question.
I need to repair inserts and patch some holes/gouges. I was under the impression that I would have to do that before a light clear coat, but I am unsure after reading your guide.
Are these in the right order?
1. Remove Mylar
2. Magic eraser/remove dirt from playfield
3. Glue and level inserts
4. Repair holes
5. Light clear coat
6. Paint repairs
7. Final clear
Quoted from chubtoad13:vid1900 Quick question.
I need to repair inserts and patch some holes/gouges. I was under the impression that I would have to do that before a light clear coat, but I am unsure after reading your guide.
Are these in the right order?
1. Remove Mylar
2. Magic eraser/remove dirt from playfield
3. Glue and level inserts
4. Repair holes
5. Light clear coat
6. Paint repairs
7. Final clear
You basically got it.
I usually repaint the Keylines around the inserts
I usually fill cupped inserts next.
I then might fix any major playfield damage, like if the posts on Bally Playboy (in front of lower pop) have chewed holes through the playfield
I finally sand out the shooterlane, and then shoot thin clearcoat
Quoted from vid1900:I finally sand out the shooterlane, and then shoot thin clearcoat
With a modern PF like a stern... if you sand out the shooter lane to remove the ground in dirt... we will expose fresh wood. Will we need to shellac it to get it yellowed to match the rest of the PF wood? Trying to figure if the exposed wood will be too white vs the existing finish when clear is sprayed.. or will the clear 'wet' it on its own?
Quoted from flynnibus:With a modern PF like a stern... if you sand out the shooter lane to remove the ground in dirt... we will expose fresh wood. Will we need to shellac it to get it yellowed to match the rest of the PF wood? Trying to figure if the exposed wood will be too white vs the existing finish when clear is sprayed.. or will the clear 'wet' it on its own?
Just like water based poly, 2PAC does not "bring out the grain", so I'd get your color right, then 2PAC over the shellac/poly
Just a clarification. I’m ready to do my first sand tomorrow on my play field first clear coat using spray max 2K. Once sanded is it ok to use the naphtha again to wipe it down or do I just blow it off and use a tack rag?
Quoted from wolffcub:looking in local shops here in my areas they cant seem to get the omni product or any PPG product. A supplier is suggesting the link below.
http://www.u-pol.com/us/en/product/system-20/coatings/clearcoats/21-clearcoat-21-voc-2
They said i can still select my hardener type so i can get a slow to med cure time. Any experience with this product or is it possible to see what you think of the specs on it.
http://www.u-pol.com/files/2346/up2842a-TDS-EN
I have used the UPol system 20 on playfields. Brushed in the past and sprayed for first time today.
It seems hard enough with enough flex and if used lightly it does not melt waterslides or acrylic paint.
I used it as the datasheet says without thinners running at 2 bar.
I have a WCS94 that had the center soccer ball inserts cracked. Some were partially there and very brittle. They came right out with little effort. I have a playfield scan to use to make decals. Now there is a little lip to the insert level from the rest of the surrounding area. Do I drop in some clear to bring them up to level? Will that then make the decals when done too high? Do I wait until decals are ready and then do a little clear, then decals, then more clear to bring to level? Do I then need to mylar the area? Also the goal inserts each have an area chipped. Do I just drop in clear? Is that paintable to match? I’ve been searching and reading a lot but haven’t found answers for this situation so thought I’d ask here.
5256A359-AA82-4EAD-AB42-705FB8597011 (resized).jpeg99061F97-AF62-4906-B42F-44F004CCF9CB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Moonbus:I have used the UPol system 20 on playfields. Brushed in the past and sprayed for first time today.
It seems hard enough with enough flex and if used lightly it does not melt waterslides or acrylic paint.
I used it as the datasheet says without thinners running at 2 bar.
What actual UPOL product numbers are hey?
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:Also the goal inserts each have an area chipped. Do I just drop in clear? Is that paintable to match?
Those inserts are moving.
Glue them from the back first.
Then do the Ghosted Insert repair:
Then touch up with paint, and fill the holes with 2PAC.
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:Now there is a little lip to the insert level from the rest of the surrounding area. Do I drop in some clear to bring them up to level? Will that then make the decals when done too high?
Install your decals.
Use the least amount of 2PAC mist to cover.
Let dry.
Mist another coat of 2PAC.
Let dry.
Fill with 2PAC until level with playfield.
So I picked up a project Alien Poker that was going to be my second auto clear coat. The playfield looked decent in pictures, but now that I am looking at it close up it has clearly had a ton of touch ups that I'm not sure will survive being cleared.
There are some areas under Mylar that I will remove (pops and slingshot, lower flipper area) and am not too concerned about those areas assuming the paint survives. But I don't know what to do about these areas that appear to already have decals that are peeling.
I don't need the game to be collector quality. But I am afraid of making the cosmetics worse than they already are.
Maybe I should do a light layer of clear, see how things hold up and hope that the decals don't melt or fall apart?
IMG_20180903_212450175 (resized).jpgIMG_20180903_212510935 (resized).jpgIMG_20180903_212525876 (resized).jpgIMG_20180903_212553551 (resized).jpgIMG_20180903_212605200 (resized).jpgQuoted from frisbez:There are some areas under Mylar that I will remove (pops and slingshot, lower flipper area) and am not too concerned about those areas assuming the paint survives. But I don't know what to do about these areas that appear to already have decals that are peeling.
Scan all those areas before you try to remove all that mylar.
It could be a bunch of different brands and ages, so each may require a different mode of attack (heat, cold, chemical)
It looks like you have enough gradient dots to repair the missing sections in photoshop (or beg someone here for a clean scan of the area) Maybe make a decal of the whole dotted section and replace it all?
Quoted from vid1900:Install your decals.
Use the least amount of 2PAC mist to cover.
Let dry.
Mist another coat of 2PAC.
Let dry.
Fill with 2PAC until level with playfield.
Just want to clarify when you say to mist the 2PAC. I would think to cover the area and just have the insert areas exposed. What would I use to mist? This is my first insert repair other than leveling so I want to make sure I get the right tools. Use the same PPG Shop Line JC661 clear for this misting as you mentioned in the ghosting steps?
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