Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

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#5901 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from RGAires:
1 - I have order some insert decals, that im going to scan and do some waterslide decals, my problem is that i dont have color laser printer, and some inserts have color on it... white also...
Question: any way to resolve that?

Go to your local real hobby shop (not Hobby Locust) and have them print the decals for you. They can print white on their Alps printers.

If you wife has a Cricut, she can cut you masks that would let you do your white layer with an airbrush, then top with a decal.

Quoted from RGAires:
2 - After waterslide decals i dont have the tools to clearcoat with 2k.. small apartment

So find someone who does.

Look on your local auto parts store bulletin board - there are a dozen backyard auto painters in every city.

No sense spending all those hours touching up a playfield, then put a crappy Poly or Waterbased topcoat that won't polish out like 2K, dull all your colors, and then will turn yellow (non-yellowing formula means it will certainly turn yellow).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109

Quoted from RGAires:
3 - Goo gone to remove the mylar glue?

Alcohol and baking flour works great, and won't remove paint.

Here is one I did a few weeks ago with a full playfield Mylar:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4468664

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#5902 5 years ago

RUD

RGAires

Pinside member

11y 46,300 829 3

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Go to your local real hobby shop (not Hobby Locust) and have them print the decals for you. They can print white on their Alps printers.
If you wife has a Cricut, she can cut you masks that would let you do your white layer with an airbrush, then top with a decal.

So find someone who does.
Look on your local auto parts store bulletin board - there are a dozen backyard auto painters in every city.
No sense spending all those hours touching up a playfield, then put a crappy Poly or Waterbased topcoat that won't polish out like 2K, dull all your colors, and then will turn yellow (non-yellowing formula means it will certainly turn yellow).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1667109

Alcohol and baking flour works great, and won't remove paint.
Here is one I did a few weeks ago with a full playfield Mylar:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-hardtop-restoration-comet#post-4468664

1 - The masks are really really small... is almost impossible to do it i guess, maybe is the best way to search for local REAL hobby shop...

2 - I agree that the 2k option is the best, but i dont want to remove all the element on the playfield, maybe the best option is waterslide inserts and a playfield protector, if someone on the future wants to clearcoat is easy..

3 - Ive done the trick with baking flour and alcohol and take ages to remove it, this time maybe i´ll try goo gone.

0

#5903 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from RGAires:
1 - The masks are really really small... is almost impossible to do it

There are tons of people on this forum who have used the Cricut & Cameo to cut tiny stencils.

They cut much smaller detail than a normal vinyl cutter

Quoted from RGAires:
i guess, maybe is the best way to search for local REAL hobby shop...

Yep, keep your local business in business.

Quoted from RGAires:
I agree that the 2k option is the best, but i dont want to remove all the element on the playfield,

It takes less than 20 minutes to completely strip a playfield top.

Quoted from RGAires:
maybe the best option is waterslide inserts and a playfield protector,

You could do that; they are around $100 and offer full protection for all the wear areas:

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/NiJmk4oYAEerDYBdGXrbWA?categoryid=22&category=-&name=Whirlwind%20%7C%201990

Quoted from RGAires:
Ive done the trick with baking flour and alcohol and take ages to remove it, this time maybe i´ll try goo gone.

It all depends on if the Mylar is factory, aftermarket, or not even Mylar and just some mystery polyester film.

That Comet I did a few weeks ago was factory 1985 and it took less than a half hour to completely clean.

Your mileage will vary, lol

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#5904 5 years ago

RUD

RGAires

Pinside member

11y 46,300 829 3

OP
Quoted from vid1900:There are tons of people on this forum who have used the Cricut & Cameo to cut tiny stencils.
They cut much smaller detail than a normal vinyl cutter

Yep, keep your local business in business.

It takes less than 20 minutes to completely strip a playfield top.

You could do that; they are around $100 and offer full protection for all the wear areas:
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/NiJmk4oYAEerDYBdGXrbWA?categoryid=22&category=-&name=Whirlwind%20%7C%201990

It all depends on if the Mylar is factory, aftermarket, or not even Mylar and just some mystery polyester film.
That Comet I did a few weeks ago was factory 1985 and it took less than a half hour to completely clean.
Your mileage will vary, lol

I also have a cameo... well i can try make something on the decals that have some color on it, paint the market area and place the black decal over it... is an option yes...

20 minutes? no way you can do that on all the machines, but i get your point for sure.. is not about time, but how you want things done..

Maybe i go that route, waterslide decals, a small local clear to fix them in place and a playfield protector...

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1

#5905 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from RGAires:
20 minutes? no way you can do that on all the machines, but i get your point for sure.. is not about time, but how you want things done..

Exactly.

I'm not lovingly kissing every screw I extract.

I've got one screwgun with a 1/4" driver and the other with a #2 Philips.

Metal parts I'm keeping go in one bin, plastic parts I'm keeping go into the other.

Everything else goes in the trash. I'm not going waste time tumbling a .03 cent screw or scrubbing a .35 cent starpost.

They only way I can make good money is speed.

A simple Bally game like SBM I can usually strip the top in 10 minutes, a Xenon in 15. F14 is probably the hardest sys11, so figure 20 minutes on that one.

0

#5906 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Vid, I've got a question regarding my trough kicker rebuild that I did:

Well, I installed my cliffy protector and replaced my shooter lane ball eject cam arm, and have two problems. One is that the cliffy is too wide by 1/16 inch or so...what I mean by that is if I move it to fit properly over the ball trough, it impeeds the straight firing of the ball by a hair...not Motoblur in play, but will eventually scratch up the balls. If I align it with the shooter lane, then it covers part of the ball trough and impeeds the balls getting all the way to the end of the trough. I’m worried about the latter because...
Now that I changed the cam arm (and coil spring sleeve), the ball rockets out of the trough like a bat out of hell. The problem with that is it is colliding with the underside of the apron and sometimes not even making it into the trough. I’ve tried adjusting the lane width at the exit to no avail. I had a new spring I bought for the mechanism as well, but that put even more power behind the ball. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong adjusting these things. Anyone have suggestions?

2fc91fc007d09aab9aa88ac57bdcdfbf4b7152ef (resized).jpg

58805b5e500825c7c61c52bfed4483fe31e6dac2 (resized).jpg

6880d33cd26b1c779235ae8925cd55e80fbfb796 (resized).jpg

8b78376f00f6b9e0d54f24ad53e95984470d295a (resized).jpg

0

#5907 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from La_Porta:
Well, I installed my cliffy protector and replaced my shooter lane ball eject cam arm, and have two problems. One is that the cliffy is too wide by 1/16 inch or so...what I mean by that is if I move it to fit properly over the ball trough, it impeeds the straight firing of the ball by a hair.

Stainless Steel is super soft metal (as long as you don't heat it up).

Clamp the cliffy between two blocks of wood, leaving just the part you want gone exposed, and grind it back.

You can use a file, grinding wheel, cut off wheel, belt sander, dremel whatever.

Once you've got rid of the excess, sand the edge smooth, down to 800 grit, so it does not scratch your balls.

Remember to clamp it between the wood, or it will bend, or fly off the grinder, or cut you, or.....

0

#5908 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from La_Porta:
Now that I changed the cam arm (and coil spring sleeve), the ball rockets out of the trough like a bat out of hell. The problem with that is it is colliding with the underside of the apron and sometimes not even making it into the trough.

Sometimes you have to bend the arm to make sure it is hitting the center of the ball.

A tiny bend makes a BIG difference, so take it easy till you figure out how it works.

Work the mech by hand with the apron off so you can watch.

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1

#5909 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Sometimes you have to bend the arm to make sure it is hitting the center of the ball.
A tiny bend makes a BIG difference, so take it easy till you figure out how it works.
Work the mech by hand with the apron off so you can watch.

I assume you mean bend it laterally, not increase or decrease the amount of curvature it has.

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2

#5910 5 years ago

???

DropTarget

Pinside member

11y 64,050 2,283 23

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
so it does not scratch your balls

Too difficult to pass this one up

0

#5911 5 years ago

CCA

phototamer

Pinside member

Limassol

6y 49,800 557 3

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
so it does not scratch your balls.

No prob if your balls are made of steel ...... !

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1

#5912 5 years ago

JWS

Soapman

Pinside member

12y 79,900 1,294

vid1900 , I had my F-14 cleared, heavy cleared, It has been sitting for about 3 months and I put it on the my rotisserie today and noticed the inserts have sunk in a little. You can feel the slight edge on them. My question is, should I have some more clear sprayed or should I just go with it? Thanks in advance for any advice

DSC06613 (resized).JPG

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3

#5913 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from Soapman:
vid1900 , I had my F-14 cleared, heavy cleared, It has been sitting for about 3 months and I put it on the my rotisserie today and noticed the inserts have sunk in a little. You can feel the slight edge on them. My question is, should I have some more clear sprayed or should I just go with it? Thanks in advance for any advice
[quoted image]

That's normal.

Autopainters call that dieback or shrinkback.

Ironically, whoever shot your clear never gave it the final sanding/buffing (you can see the telltale rings around the holes ), so you can sand it flat (removing most of the dieback in the process), then buff it out.

0

#5914 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Sometimes you have to bend the arm to make sure it is hitting the center of the ball.
A tiny bend makes a BIG difference, so take it easy till you figure out how it works.
Work the mech by hand with the apron off so you can watch.

This thing is driving me absolutely batty. So, I also referenced the arm that was in there originally to see how it was set. It was actually purposely bent in towards the top of the playfield. So, I tried the same thing. This does help a little, but the ball still is not clearing the apron fully. I tried your suggestion, Vid, and made sure that the arm was dead center on the ball. This made it much worse, and the ball couldn't even clear the housing, causing it to repeatedly smash into the apron and back into the trough, over and over until I'd restart the machine. I switched back to the original spring with less tension, which also helped...but that's just because it is worn out. I also replaced the plunger as someone else suggested...no help there.

I'm not sure what to do with this thing. One thing I can tell you which seemed a little wonky: the flat edge of the arm that contacts the ball, only the lower part of it makes contact. This was where the old one was worn down and why I replaced it...is there some other way to adjust it other than just bending the arm left and right?

0

#5915 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Is the whole mech out of place?

Did you get the EXACT same plunger and coil stop for that mech?

Take the apron off. Is there any little one way "wire gate " that is installed backwards? (I cant remember if FP has a gate or not)

Test with the apron off and watch what is happening.

0

#5916 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

I think the mech is ok (lined up with original holes). Exact same plunger, stop was in good shape so I kept it. The one way gate is there, but it is before any of this (it comes before where the three balls line up waiting to be hit into the shooter lane). It is correctly positioned.

I think the best thing I can do is shoot a video of all this in action and get some 360 degree coverage of the mech. I'll give that a go tonight. Thank you for all your patience with me.

0

#5917 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Ok, I've got the movies uploaded. The first is the ball ejecting with the arm bent way up towards the top of the playfield. It does come out, but still contacts the lip of the apron. Second movie is of the mechanism, how it lines up with the ball, and how it was bent. I then bent it back to hit the middle of the ball, as you had suggested. Third movie is the ball getting stuck, ramming up on the apron. The fourth and final is how it looks with the apron off. The thing takes off like a rocket as you can see.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3oz14bxgnlvg2r/MVI_4155.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/34rj0e7ht3nwem8/MVI_4156.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k60r3dr8xm3yduz/MVI_4157.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hb33ac77vxx0pps/MVI_4158.MOV?dl=0

0

#5918 5 years ago

BSK

Bryan_Kelly

Pinside+ Frequent

Lakeville, MN

12y 135K 8,484 8 1

Quoted from La_Porta:
Ok, I've got the movies uploaded. The first is the ball ejecting with the arm bent way up towards the top of the playfield. It does come out, but still contacts the lip of the apron. Second movie is of the mechanism, how it lines up with the ball, and how it was bent. I then bent it back to hit the middle of the ball, as you had suggested. Third movie is the ball getting stuck, ramming up on the apron. The fourth and final is how it looks with the apron off. The thing takes off like a rocket as you can see.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3oz14bxgnlvg2r/MVI_4155.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/34rj0e7ht3nwem8/MVI_4156.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k60r3dr8xm3yduz/MVI_4157.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hb33ac77vxx0pps/MVI_4158.MOV?dl=0

Is the ball hitting the edge of the protector shooting it into the air? I'd remove that and see what happens.

0

#5919 5 years ago

BSK

Bryan_Kelly

Pinside+ Frequent

Lakeville, MN

12y 135K 8,484 8 1

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:
Is the ball hitting the edge of the protector shooting it into the air? I'd remove that and see what happens.

That or you have the wrong eject arm and it's shooting the ball more vertical than horizontal.

0

#5920 5 years ago

RLL

BobLangelius

Bob's Pinball Stuff

Trumbull, CT

10y 70,850 804 2

That spring looks heavier than i remember. I have an old one from Pharaoh.

I'll send it to you. PM me.

Bob

0

#5921 5 years ago

JRL

La_Porta

Pinside member

9y 51,650 781 1

Thank you for the suggestions. The cliffy I took off to experiment; no difference. As for the spring, I did order one from Marco same number as specified in the 1980 Williams part manual, and although tighter, matches my old one exactly. Maybe the arm is the issue... but it is the same as what was there. I’ll get a list of exactly what I ordered later

0

#5922 5 years ago

EON

Wiggy

Inactive member

6y 26,650 172

What type of insert damage is this?

All the mode inserts, more or less, have small cracks around them. If I move my nails over the pf I can feel them, but its not enough for me to actually get "stuck" in them.
Whats causing this? I know about inserts sinking/raising, but I cant really feel any height diffrence from the inserts and rest of the pf

38213663_10155417086050286_1500548594107678720_n (resized).jpg

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3

#5923 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from Wiggy:
What type of insert damage is this?
All the mode inserts, more or less, have small cracks around them. If I move my nails over the pf I can feel them, but its not enough for me to actually get "stuck" in them.
Whats causing this? I know about inserts sinking/raising, but I cant really feel any height diffrence from the inserts and rest of the pf
[quoted image]

The wood has shrank around those inserts.

Pretty normal for a playfield that age.

Clean out any loose crud with an Xacto, touch up black ink, fill gap with 2PAC.

If you are not clearcoating the playfield, use a syringe to fill the gap. Wipe up spills instantly with Lacquer Thinner.

0

#5924 5 years ago

BLT

wolffcub

WhiteWolf

5y 77,800 1,425

Have any good tips for doing the very thin black outlines around everything when completely repainting a play field ?

0

#5925 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from wolffcub:
Have any good tips for doing the very thin black outlines around everything when completely repainting a play field ?

I usually make a sheet of decals and apply them where needed.

0

#5926 5 years ago

RIF

BorgDog

Pinside+ Frequent

Spokane, WA

8y 88,800 1,742 26 9

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
I usually make a sheet of decals and apply them where needed.

Even for things are large as lines around sinbad's sword? (not to mention around the large white areas on the same playfield).

sword (resized).jpg

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1

#5927 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from BorgDog:
Even for things are large as lines around sinbad's sword? (not to mention around the large white areas on the same playfield).

Sometimes I just use auto Pinstriping to save time and then clear over it.

On smaller sections you might use decals or Frisket.

Every playfield has different challenges, you as the restorer, have to decide the best way to overcome them.

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1

#5928 5 years ago

CCA

phototamer

Pinside member

Limassol

6y 49,800 557 3

Quoted from wolffcub:
Have any good tips for doing the very thin black outlines around everything when completely repainting a play field ?

For relatively straight lines and absolutely straight lines I use auto pinstripe ( 2 lines of pinstrip with the damaged black line exposed in the middle ) . Paint with createx , heat dry and clear over. For curves and circles I use a collection of French curves and circle templates , defining the lines with a pencil and very carefully paint the lines with a 10 zero brush . Works beautifully

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fast-draw-playfield-restoration-first-ever-attempt-#post-4468410

0

#5929 5 years ago

FCB

Fred736

Pinside member

8y 33,050 152 3

Molotow paint markers.

00001IMG_00001_BURST20180731221206_COVER (resized).jpg

Opaque, deep black and compatible with clear.
Around the inserts where just a center line of black is missing, go free hand. On straight, i use a ruler. You can mask for other shapes.

0

#5930 5 years ago

JDB

kilmarnock1350

Pinside member

Pensacola, FL

9y 34,800 398 25

I've had this "flaking" issue on a couple lately, and I'm not if it it's something I'm doing wrong, or if it's the condition of the playfield itself.

In this example I'm in the process of leveling the playfield, clear, sand, clear, sand etc.

IMG_5262 (resized).JPG

IMG_5263 (resized).JPG

IMG_5264 (resized).JPG

0

#5931 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

^ The wood looks discolored underneath, so those playfields were probably stored in a garage or something at one point in their history.

0

#5932 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,521 31

Quoted from kilmarnock1350:
I've had this "flaking" issue on a couple lately, and I'm not if it it's something I'm doing wrong, or if it's the condition of the playfield itself.
In this example I'm in the process of leveling the playfield, clear, sand, clear, sand etc.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like wood rot from moisture through and through.

0

#5933 5 years ago

IZY

izzy

Pinside+ Frequent

Sacramento, CA

11y 65,050 1,164 6

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
The theory of fixing Insert Ghosting is that we need to "glue" the flap of clear coat back down to the insert face. There is going to be no place for a lot of solvent evaporation, so we need a "glue" that will cure without direct exposure to air. We also want this glue to have some flexibility to it so something brittle like epoxy is out. Pro restorers have found that Isocynate Clear coat is the perfect solution.
Lately, I've been using Diamond Plate for my top coats (I restored a game for a Dupont engineer who brought me a rather generous 5 gallons of the stuff), but it seems to be too "hot" for this kind of repair.
What does work nicely is PPG Shop Line JC661 clear. You mix it in 2 ratio with a fast topcoat hardener and it cures before it eats the old clear coat. Still, you should make a scan of that area of the playfield in case disaster strikes. You can then use the scan to make a decal (directions for this process are coming up later in this guide).
You need to neatly apply the clear under the flap, and for this you will need a syringe. The JC661 is too thick to be drawn up into an Insulin syringe, so you will have to get a big horse syringe.
Using an absolutely brand new Xacto blade, cut a slit around the damage, following the edge of the insert itself.
[quoted image]

Is there a clear I can use that is available in small quantities for fixing ghosting inserts? Preferably mixing not required.
thx

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4

#5934 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from izzy:
Is there a clear I can use that is available in small quantities for fixing ghosting inserts? Preferably mixing not required.
thx

It would be a tall order for a glue like that!

1. It would need to be thin enough in viscosity to wick into the gap without forming bubbles.

2. Flexible enough to maintain it's grip on a possibly moving insert (something made it ghost in the first place, often movement).

3. It would need to dry completely clear.

4. It would not turn yellow (like epoxy does) over time.

5. It needs to cure without evaporation (under the ghost flap, there is nowhere for gasses & solvents to go)

6. It needs to cure fast enough to not melt the fragile flap, yet hot enough to bond with the plastic insert.

7. It needs to be compatible with our clearcoat

-

You just have to be smart enough to procure a small quantity of 2PAC.

Look for the smallest auto painting shop in your town. Not a giant chain like Maaco, but somewhere where you can talk to the painters themselves. Look on the bulletin board at AutoZone for painters that don't list an address, these are the backyard guys.

Remember that the painters are busy, they have paints that are curing as you waste their time. You need to be fast.

Izzy: Hey, I know I'm being a total pest here, but can I give you $20 for a few ounces of 2PAC? [have the money in your hand so the painter can see it].
Painter: Uh, I mean, that stuff is dangerous. WTH are you going to do with it?
I: I'm fixing an antique pinball machine. I use 2PAC all the time [very important], but today I found my can must have got contaminated, cuz it's a solid cylinder of plastic.
P: I got ya. Ha, that can happen. It's an expensive lesson, huh?
I: OMG I'm sick right now.
P: I'd help you out, but I got nothin' to put it in.
I: I brought these 2 small glass bottles, just for that purpose.
P: The man comes prepared! [taking the bottles from you]
I: Thanks man, you are like my own private superhero.
P: I don't know about that....
I: Is this stuff 2to1 or 4to1 ratio?
P: I only use 4to1, fnck that 2to1 shlt !
I: I'm with ya on that.
I dont have time for your bullshit (resized).jpg

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2

#5935 5 years ago

IZY

izzy

Pinside+ Frequent

Sacramento, CA

11y 65,050 1,164 6

thanks. I loved the dialogue scenario.

0

#5936 5 years ago

MDY

Iam4OhioState

Inactive member

Pataskala, OH

5y 12,250 4

Do the white water slide decals dissolve in the clear coat like the clear water slide decals?

0

#5937 5 years ago

YCV

Arcane

Pinside member

Raleigh, NC

7y 54,550 890 6

Quoted from Iam4OhioState:
Do the white water slide decals dissolve in the clear coat like the clear water slide decals?

Why should it be different?

The trick is to dust the decal with a very thin/dusty coat of clearcoat first. Let it dry, make sure the heat can radiate easily away from the playfield.
Go for another very light/dust like spraying, a few minutes after the first spraying. Let it cool, making sure your decals is not adversely reacting.
Finally, go for a light although a little bit thicker coat. Let dry.

Yves

0

#5938 5 years ago

DEN

jibmums

Pinside member

12y 96,900 3,964 16

I have several raised inserts on my T2 that I'm leveling to the playfield with c-clamps, which has worked well, but now I need to glue them from underneath so they don't raise up again. I'd prefer to use super glue instead of epoxy but I recall from my car model building days that super glue will fog clear plastic, or at least clear styrene. Will this be an issue with the plastic that inserts were made from? Is super glue a better choice than epoxy due to its thinner viscosity, since I'm not really gluing the insert into the playfield but gluing it along the seam where they meet?

0

#5939 5 years ago

TOM

pinballinreno

Computer Extreme

9y 134K 15,521 31

Quoted from jibmums:
I have several raised inserts on my T2 that I'm leveling to the playfield with c-clamps, which has worked well, but now I need to glue them from underneath so they don't raise up again. I'd prefer to use super glue instead of epoxy but I recall from my car model building days that super glue will fog clear plastic, or at least clear styrene. Will this be an issue with the plastic that inserts were made from? Is super glue a better choice than epoxy due to its thinner viscosity, since I'm not really gluing the insert into the playfield but gluing it along the seam where they meet?

Epoxy

0

#5940 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from Iam4OhioState:
Do the white water slide decals dissolve in the clear coat like the clear water slide decals?

Yes, they melt the same way, but leave white pigment behind.

0

#5941 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from jibmums:
Is super glue a better choice than epoxy due to its thinner viscosity, since I'm not really gluing the insert into the playfield but gluing it along the seam where they meet?

Usually super glue just runs through the seam, around the ledge and out the back.

They make different viscosity super glues that cure the moment you add a drop of activator anywhere near it.

https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/glues-and-adhesive/

They still cloud plastics, so mask off anything you don't want ruined.

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#5942 5 years ago

MDY

Iam4OhioState

Inactive member

Pataskala, OH

5y 12,250 4

Thanks!

0

#5943 5 years ago

DEN

jibmums

Pinside member

12y 96,900 3,964 16

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
Usually super glue just runs through the seam, around the ledge and out the back.
They make different viscosity super glues that cure the moment you add a drop of activator anywhere near it.
https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/glues-and-adhesive/
They still cloud plastics, so mask off anything you don't want ruined.

Sounds like I'd rather avoid super glue then. Will epoxy hold well enough, if it's just sticking to the inner edge of the insert and hole?

0

#5944 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from jibmums:
Sounds like I'd rather avoid super glue then. Will epoxy hold well enough, if it's just sticking to the inner edge of the insert and hole?

Yeah I use it all the time.

For the valley around an insert, I usually just drip in 2PAC and it fills the gap + glues in the insert + does not cause any clouding.

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#5945 5 years ago

JAM

Wolfmarsh

Pinside member

12y 134K 10,956

What is a good full face respirator for this kind of work?

Also, for doing a homebrew playfield that has never had clear or paint on it (raw wood), would you go straight to 2PAC for the first layer before putting down artwork, or something else?

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4

#5946 5 years ago

CCR

Cliffy

Cliffy Protectors

San Ramon, CA

20y 90,150 1,625 19 17

Quoted from La_Porta:
the cliffy is too wide by 1/16 inch or so...what I mean by that is if I move it to fit properly over the ball trough, it impeeds the straight firing of the ball by a hair...

Then you should contact the guy who makes it.... me I would have trimmed one for you. I designed it on an original playfield and it was a perfect fit but there can always be variations between oem and repro playfields- even between runs from the same manufacturer. I try to accommodate this by slotting the mount holes so they can be adjusted. Obviously I cannot account for every single variance so I'm here ready to help if needed by modifying to fit your particular situation. Also obviously I cannot hang out on forums all day so you really need to contact me directly when you have a question or fit issue. [email protected]

0

1

#5947 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from Wolfmarsh:
What is a good full face respirator for this kind of work?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1670975

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/workwear-safety-gear/personal-protective-equipment/respirators-dust-masks/3m-trade-medium-paint-project-respirator-with-quick-latch-mask/6502qlpa1-a-ps/p-1495520426214-c-13847.htm?tid=3183367752137348257&ipos=7

0

2

#5948 5 years ago

OP

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,253 18

Quoted from Wolfmarsh:
Also, for doing a homebrew playfield that has never had clear or paint on it (raw wood), would you go straight to 2PAC for the first layer before putting down artwork, or something else?

You can put 2PAC down first.

BUT if it's a section where you want the grain to show, use some oil poly first, then 2PAC over it.

2PAC does not absorb into the wood and make the grain pop like Shellac or Oil Poly does.

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Here you can see that I used 2PAC as a top coat, but because I wanted the Flame Maple grain to really pop, I put a thin layer of Shellac down on the wood first, then I 2PACed it.

89 (resized).jpg

0

#5949 5 years ago

JAM

Wolfmarsh

Pinside member

12y 134K 10,956

OP
Quoted from vid1900:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/16#post-1670975
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/workwear-safety-gear/personal-protective-equipment/respirators-dust-masks/3m-trade-medium-paint-project-respirator-with-quick-latch-mask/6502qlpa1-a-ps/p-1495520426214-c-13847.htm?tid=3183367752137348257&ipos=7

Thanks vid!

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86