Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991
Space Jam
Sega, 1996Quoted from CaptainNeo:if you just need clearcoating. Level 1 with me is $350 for standard body fields. $400 for widebody games. That's leveling with 3-5 layers and block sanding between layers. Turnaround time is around 2-3 weeks from arrival.
much more work involved there than what the body shop will do.
indeed it is. But that's what I do. If I needed my car clearcoated. I wouldn't try doing it myself. 
Maybe 1 panel, but not the entire car.
What do you guys think of this kit CPR recommends for a high end finish? Is this really worth the extra cost?
Quoted from Indusguys:What do you guys think of this kit CPR recommends for a high end finish? Is this really worth the extra cost?
http://www.classicplayfields.com/perfection.html
I think is sucks balls in a big way. I used to use 3M buffing compounds and it was the WORST. Absolutely the worst. It was very easy to overheat and burn the clear. Buffing compound would heat up so much the inserts would all shift and reveal edging everywhere. Even when it looked great to start. I will never use another 3m compound ever.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I think is sucks balls in a big way. I used to use 3M buffing compounds and it was the WORST. Absolutely the worst. It was very easy to overheat and burn the clear. Buffing compound would heat up so much the inserts would all shift and reveal edging everywhere. Even when it looked great to start. I will never use another 3m compound ever.
Ok, how about the treasure cove kit:
I just got my PF back from the auto body shop.
Before seeing it I was told "It didn't turn out as I hoped" Never a good thing to hear. He went on to tell me that there was a lot of fish eye when they sprayed the dry coat, so they had to use fish eye reducer and put on a wet coat. As a result, the 1st layer is thicker and smoother than he was hoping to spray. Having said that, I'm glad they did it that way. There's no fish eye evident at all, I'll just need to sand down this layer a bit before applying the art. Even without touching up the art, the PF looks so much better than it did before.
So far he's got about 1/2 hour of labor into it.
Quoted from DropTarget:I just got my PF back from the auto body shop.
Pics or it didn't happen 
Seriously though, glad it's working out for you!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Pics or it didn't happen
Seriously though, glad it's working out for you!
eventually
Here ya go. Disregard the blurry areas, that's due to how Photoshop stitched the pictures together.
Quoted from tomds:I'm in the process of re-painting this playfield. I'm airbrushing createx paints, but I'm struggling to get anywhere near the peach colour round the pop bumpers. Any tips on which colours to try mixing to get this?
Try this. I would go 3
May have to adjust as I was going off your pic and it needed a little more light.
Mike
After a playfield swap and two restorations (with two more waiting to be done) I have redirected to build a black pipe rotisserie. Do you spray clear with a playfield on the rotisserie? If so, what about the areas covered by the clamps at the top and bottom edges?
Quoted from pinheadpierre:After a playfield swap and two restorations (with two more waiting to be done) I have redirected to build a black pipe rotisserie. Do you spray clear with a playfield on the rotisserie? If so, what about the areas covered by the clamps at the top and bottom edges?
Take the clamps off if you spray on the rotisserie.
Gravity will keep it in place.
Quoted from Indusguys:What do you guys think of this kit CPR recommends for a high end finish? Is this really worth the extra cost?
http://www.classicplayfields.com/perfection.html
Not really.
Even if you polished the whole playfield to **show car** shine, it would only take a few days to ruin all that hard work; just like if you rolled a bunch of steel balls all over your show car hood for 100 hours.
Spend your time playing pinball, not obsessing over something that can't last.....
Quoted from vid1900:Take the clamps off if you spray on the rotisserie.
Gravity will keep it in place.
Oh duh - gravity. It really does work well on most things (except Sir Issac's hair)!
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Oh duh - gravity. It really does work well on most things (except Sir Issac's hair)!
or tim burtons
Quoted from packie1:Try this. I would go 3
Mike
Mike,
Am i missing something obvious? What do those ratios mean?
Quoted from DropTarget:Mike,
Am i missing something obvious? What do those ratios mean?
An Art teacher explained this to me.
She told me that it is the ratio of color to white. The color being made by 10 yellow, 10 red and 80 white. Then the "tints" are created by adding more white to the color.
It may not still be perfect, but it will be a better starting point. So mix that up put it in your airbrush and shoot a small spot. Let it dry (do not heat dry it) and see how it looks. If you have followed Vid's advise,you should have a base of clear on your playfield. With the Base clear, you can shoot and shoot color and wipe off what doesn't look right. Give that a try. Trust me, I am bad with color matching and my wife got frustrated looking at colors, so I ended up with this method.
Here is a Bally eight ball where I matched the green. Did the whole thing to make sure no color difference.
Looks nice.
so, the 3 for instance, would be the 3 parts recipe that they recommend to 1 white?
That's sort of how I read it, you (I) would think that the website could make the appropriate adjustments.
Two questions for anyone:
1. Anyone know a good source of the rubber barrel nuts for holding on the plastics?
2. What is the best way to get the rivets out of the metal lane guides that hold them into the side wood?
Quoted from La_Porta:Two questions for anyone:
1. Anyone know a good source of the rubber barrel nuts for holding on the plastics?
2. What is the best way to get the rivets out of the metal lane guides that hold them into the side wood?
1.Titan has 13 different colors.
2. I use an aircraft skinning spoon and gently pry between the guide and the wood until you can get a hold of the nail with pliers. You can use a putty knife as well.
Started the touch up. After all the stressing about color matching, I started out by using the GoldenPaints web site to get a basic recipe. Dayum if it wasn't waaaaaaay off. So, I just played with the mix, added different colors that weren't in the recipe, but that my eye told me that it needed. I think I came very close to the original green on the PF. Very satisfying. There were a few times that I thought it was a goner, but persistence payed off.
Here is a before and after sample.
The green is much closer in person than the pics show, you can tell that the "after" pic is bluer than the "before" pic. as I took the pic with my camera, while the "before" was from a scanner.
I'm starting to believe!!!
Although it looks like a huge pain, that blue area might be better off being masked and sprayed a whole color.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:i do not envy the touchups you are going to have to do.
Me either.
Quoted from La_Porta:Although it looks like a huge pain, that blue area might be better off being masked and sprayed a whole color.
I'm going to have to spray the entire PF. Yes, a real pain, especially for my 1st attempt. The real time consuming thing is cleaning up the scan, in order to create vector art for my Silhouette machine to cut the stencils. I know I could use Frisket, but hell, I have this cutter so why not use it. Lots of curves to cut, I'd rather not freehand it. On the plus side, since I'm doing the entire play field, there is a little room for error in lining things up.
Quoted from DropTarget:Started the touch up. After all the stressing about color matching, I started out by using the GoldenPaints web site to get a basic recipe. Dayum if it wasn't waaaaaaay off. So, I just played with the mix, added different colors that weren't in the recipe, but that my eye told me that it needed. I think I came very close to the original green on the PF. Very satisfying. There were a few times that I thought it was a goner, but persistence payed off.
Here is a before and after sample.
The green is much closer in person than the pics show, you can tell that the "after" pic is bluer than the "before" pic. as I took the pic with my camera, while the "before" was from a scanner.
I'm starting to believe!!!
Damn Sorry the mix did not work out well for you. Did you make sure to select Fluid colors? The program likes to default to the heavy bodies, and I always have to switch. But you are correct that you still have to play with it, but it does put you in the ballpark. Looks good.
Quoted from DropTarget:Me either.
I'm going to have to spray the entire PF. Yes, a real pain, especially for my 1st attempt. The real time consuming thing is cleaning up the scan, in order to create vector art for my Silhouette machine to cut the stencils. I know I could use Frisket, but hell, I have this cutter so why not use it. Lots of curves to cut, I'd rather not freehand it. On the plus side, since I'm doing the entire play field, there is a little room for error in lining things up.
Again I have done the same thing with the eightball PF. Using a cutter saves time and headaches. I also cut some more difficult images for spraying and it took a lot of pressure off doing it by hand.
Quoted from packie1:Damn Sorry the mix did not work out well for you. Did you make sure to select Fluid colors? The program likes to default to the heavy bodies, and I always have to switch. But you are correct that you still have to play with it, but it does put you in the ballpark. Looks good.
No problem, it got me there. Yes, I selected Fluid colors, but I mixed some of the heavy body, and some Createx paints to finally come up with the match. Even with the heavy body, it sprayed just fine without reducing.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:pinball life sells them. you can get them in all kinds of colors too.
Having a tough time. I can find the original style nylon acorn nuts, but not the rubber barrel slip on/off type. Do you have a link>
Quoted from La_Porta:Having a tough time. I can find the original style nylon acorn nuts, but not the rubber barrel slip on/off type. Do you have a link>
Pinball resource - rubber -# RIN-PC http://www.pbresource.com/rubber/rin-pc.jpg
Tittan silicone - https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52
pinball lifes selection
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=93&pg=1
Vid there are several bare wood areas near the pop bumpers. I have applied my first light coat of spraymax and intend to start the paint touch up next. I noticed a slight ridge in the transition area where there is paint and then bare wood. Is there anything I need to do about the ridge before I start applying color?
Quoted from Silverstreak02:Vid there are several bare wood areas near the pop bumpers. I have applied my first light coat of spraymax and intend to start the paint touch up next. I noticed a slight ridge in the transition area where there is paint and then bare wood. Is there anything I need to do about the ridge before I start applying color?
You can feather it with fine sandpaper, or just bury it in the clear at the end.
Quoted from dasvis:Pinball resource - rubber -# RIN-PC http://www.pbresource.com/rubber/rin-pc.jpg
Tittan silicone - https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52
Thank you, got them!
My playfield switch slots are mashed down on each end. Would you just repair the ends with the wood epoxy and then paint or try to press the wood back up? If I clear coat it would a cliffy be necessary to prevent future wear?
Thanks!
Quoted from Adold:My playfield switch slots are mashed down on each end. Would you just repair the ends with the wood epoxy and then paint or try to press the wood back up? If I clear coat it would a cliffy be necessary to prevent future wear?
Thanks!
Usually they are mashed down at the factory so a slow ball does not hang up in them.
Look at any new game to see what I mean.
Quoted from Adold:I will take some pictures when i get home but mine are damaged. you can see cracks in the finish and they are mashed down further than that.
Thank you
Sand them a little to clean them up.
If you can't sand the dirt out, paint 'em.
I filled mine in and them repainted them:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/la-portas-firepower-rejuvenation/page/3#post-3875275
Update,
I've been away all week, and just got home to paint the yellow on my Mini Pool PF. Not bad, it only took about 4 hours for the one color, very tedious to prep.....4 more colors to go! 5 if you include black.
Sorry no pics at the moment, I'll get some up soon.
I'm away again tomorrow, 
Had to install the lane guides on my CPR Nitro Ground Shaker playfield. I found these Brad tipped bits on eBay. The 3/32 worked perfect. Plus they have a hex drive so turning them by hand was a breeze.
ebay.com link: Milescraft 2300 Brad Point Stubby Bits 6 PC Set
For some reason, I'm unable to find the posts about clear lifting off inserts, and using the "GIANT HORSE SYRINGE" to re-adhere it. Can anyone point me to Vid's post on that?
EDIT: I got it.
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Burlington, WI
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