(Topic ID: 29731)

Vid's GUIDE To Rebuilding Pop Bumpers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 21 days ago by vid1900
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    Topic index (key posts)

    3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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    Post #183 Bally 80’s pop bumper rebuild Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)

    Post #407 Recommendation for stapler Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #536 Link to a great video for people who are new to pop bumpers. Posted by Axl (5 years ago)


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    #444 6 years ago

    Vid, I'm building a custom playfield, and ran into a problem mounting the pop bumper today. I have some used williams mechs for the lower side, and I bought all new parts for above the playfield. After assembly, the stem of the skirt is too low, nearly touching the plunger, leaving no room for the switch. I compared the new skirts with another spare DE complete mech I had lying around, and it looks like the stem is longer than on the DE mech, but every place I can find online says their skirts are universal for all manufacturers, and I've found multiple pinside posts with people saying all skirt stems are the same length. Am I messing something else up here?

    IMG_20171013_142024 (resized).jpgIMG_20171013_142024 (resized).jpg

    #448 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Are you missing the skirt spring?

    Nope, it's all in there. Measured height from playfield to skirt too and it was the same as on my other machines

    #451 6 years ago
    Quoted from spinal:

    Sky Jump, Gottlieb '74:
    Rebuilding middle pop which had a coil without square end and noticed upon reinstall that coil rotates around (but has no slack horizontally). Not sure if it did this before I took apart but it was sticking on after activated hence the rebuild. My left and right pops don't rotate so something is not right here. At the very least this will cause strain in coil solder points and rotations will lose energy (a least a bit) that would otherwise be directed to ball (or this was reason it was originally sticking on).
    What do I have wrong here or is this wrong coil?
    (Last pic is of right pop)

    On that first picture it looks like you've got a pretty big gap between the coil top and the bracket

    1 month later
    #469 6 years ago
    Quoted from La_Porta:

    Well I answered my own question: the bodies are slightly taller, maybe 1/4 inch. Does this really matter? The bumper looks like
    It will work just fine...is there any concern other than cosmetic?

    As long as the ring is the same distance from the playfield it should function the same...

    1 week later
    #474 6 years ago
    Quoted from jrobinso99:

    Does anyone know why those rings are not getting reproduced? I know there needs to be a large order for injection molded plastic like this.. but I have to imagine there is enough demand now.
    -Jay

    Stern flipper bats weren't even being made till this year, and these rings don't break much. I figure it's not a priority to remake them when metal are available

    2 years later
    #560 4 years ago

    what are those caps+resistors even for in the first place?

    2 months later
    #575 3 years ago
    Quoted from Matthew2000tx:

    Did you install them. I just ordered some for my Williams Comet that I'm rebuilding pop bumpers on. My question is the original were non-polar/bi-polar and I can't tell from their website if these are bi-polar aka non-polar or polarized. I'm just wondering how orientated them?

    I just swapped some on my blackout, and it made a noticeable difference in the pop strength. Not crazy but, enough that I'll definitely be doing it on all my Williams moving forward.

    AFAIK, they're polarized. One end of the switch is connected to ground (black wire), so that's the side the negative lead of the cap goes to. I used 22uF, 50v electrolytic caps.

    4 months later
    #592 3 years ago

    There's also two different heights for the newer narrow bodies

    1 month later
    #596 3 years ago

    so the lower switch on the pop bumpers (further from the playfield) is visibly opening on both bumpers when the ring is stuck down? Do they release if you turn the game off?

    2 weeks later
    #607 3 years ago

    I've seen similar on a DE pop after replacing everything. Had the whole mech out of the machine even to look at it. Every time the ring went down, it'd rattle the skirt even though it didn't seem to be touching it

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