(Topic ID: 29731)

Vid's GUIDE To Rebuilding Pop Bumpers


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 575 posts
  • 148 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by zacaj
  • Topic is favorited by 663 Pinsiders

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    Vids Guide Rebuilding Pop Bumpers.pdf (PDF preview)
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    There are 575 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 12.
    #551 9 months ago
    Quoted from xsvtoys:

    I'm about to jump in and do 3 pops. For my convenience as a reference, I created a Word doc with Vid's guide, plus supplementary useful information as noted throughout the thread (Bally Vs Williams parts, Bally 1980s pop bumpers, coils stops, the lamp wires, and so on). Its all organized into sections with a table of contents. Basically, pretty much everything from the guide without the extra comments and such. The doc is 27 pages long and has all of the pictures in it.
    I think I can attach here as a PDF, let's see if it works. EDIT - yes, looks like it worked, you can download PDF, enjoy.
    [quoted image]

    Nice work - thanks for posting this. I'm sure it'll be particularly helpful to folks wading into the project for their first time. Good refresher course to read through for more experienced folks, too.

    #552 9 months ago
    Quoted from xsvtoys:

    I'm about to jump in and do 3 pops. For my convenience as a reference, I created a Word doc with Vid's guide, plus supplementary useful information as noted throughout the thread (Bally Vs Williams parts, Bally 1980s pop bumpers, coils stops, the lamp wires, and so on). Its all organized into sections with a table of contents. Basically, pretty much everything from the guide without the extra comments and such. The doc is 27 pages long and has all of the pictures in it.
    I think I can attach here as a PDF, let's see if it works. EDIT - yes, looks like it worked, you can download PDF, enjoy.
    [quoted image]

    +1
    I replaced all 3 Jack*Bot's pop bumpers last January. I'll download, and read plus look at pictures too. Thanks

    2 weeks later
    #553 8 months ago

    Hi All,

    Just a few questions if anyone can help please

    On my HS all 3 pop bumper coil diodes are at the top by the plunger stop, and some of the other coils like hideouts but some are like the Flippers, away from the stops.

    So the question is, is this right or should I mount all the coils like the flipper coils with the diodes at the opposite end to the plunger stop.

    Also my manual doesn't have the wiring for the pops, so I don't know what caps to order. As the ones on there look like they've seen better days, so if anyone one has the wiring for the pop bumpers would be great.

    Thank you for any help on these questions

    1 month later
    #554 7 months ago

    I just rebuilt the pop bumpers on a friends Future Spa. This guide was a huge help. I followed it pretty much exactly. 2 issues. The new bayonet lamp sockets don’t seem to hold the bulbs as tight as the old sockets did. I tried pushing up on the little tab. It seems some bulbs just fit tighter than others. Also, trying to slightly lift the old staples to reuse them is much easier said then done. I need to invest in a stapler. I gave up trying to pry them up. I wound up soldering the new lamp legs to a piece of the old legs that I left under the staples.

    4 months later
    #555 3 months ago

    So I’m rebuilding Gorgar pops. I labeled the wires, but is the lamp socket directional? If I put led lamps in does that effect it?

    #556 3 months ago
    Quoted from paynemic:

    So I’m rebuilding Gorgar pops. I labeled the wires, but is the lamp socket directional? If I put led lamps in does that effect it?

    Does not matter the direction of the lamp socket, just make sure the exposed wires arent shorting on anything. No real issues using LEDs, just make sure they aren't too big to fit under the cap. Some LEDs have polarity so if they dont work the first time after putting one in, flip it around in the socket.

    #557 3 months ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Does not matter the direction of the lamp socket, just make sure the exposed wires arent shorting on anything. No real issues using LEDs, just make sure they aren't too big to fit under the cap. Some LEDs have polarity so if they dont work the first time after putting one in, flip it around in the socket.

    Thanks!!

    #558 3 months ago

    How much of a difference does installing new capacitors make to 80's Williams pop bumpers?

    1586402860411923698513 (resized).jpg
    #559 3 months ago

    trk12fire I don't think it will change performance. I just do it because the caps are 30+ years old, so they would be at risk for failure.

    #560 3 months ago

    what are those caps+resistors even for in the first place?

    #561 3 months ago

    zacaj I'm not a electronics whiz, but I believe it "smooths" the signal to the mpu when the pop is activated. Someone like grumpy would know a lot more about it then me.

    #562 3 months ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    what are those caps+resistors even for in the first place?

    A quick look at the schematics tells me they probably determine the shortest length of time that the special solenoids activate.

    #563 3 months ago

    I purchased them from Pinball Life, because the description says it'll bring your old pop bumpers back to life and give them more pop. I thought I'd give it a shot

    #564 3 months ago
    Quoted from trk12fire:

    I purchased them from Pinball Life, because the description says it'll bring your old pop bumpers back to life and give them more pop. I thought I'd give it a shot

    #565 3 months ago

    What is the part number of the flat metal plate in Data East pop bumpers? It's not listed in any manuals I could find.

    Attached is a picture of the plate in question. The plate is circled in red in the picture.

    Data East pop bumper metal plate (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #566 78 days ago

    I think, Based on the attached assembly diagram for the Data East "Jump Pop Bumper"
    that metal plate is either the
    Metal Yoke 535-5877-00
    or a part of the
    Bumper Housing 545-5100-00

    jump (resized).jpg
    #567 78 days ago
    Quoted from Dent00:

    Metal Yoke 535-5877-00
    or a part of the
    Bumper Housing 545-5100-00

    The bumper housing is the blue plastic piece on the extreme left side of his picture and the metal yoke is the slotted metal piece on the extreme right side of his picture.

    I believe the P/N for the backplate (which is used to mount the coil) is 535-7419-00. Good luck finding one! The old Stern "Thumper Bumper" (P/N B-695) from the 80's is a similar design and used a plate (P/N B-695-9) that looks eerily similar and in fact may be interchangeable but I wouldn't guarantee it. Your best bet is Steve at PBR - he's probably got both assemblies laying around or can tell you if they are interchangeable.

    stn-thumberplastic (resized).jpg
    2 weeks later
    #568 61 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    There is usually a little piece of rubber or vinyl insulation that keeps the lamp from shorting against the bracket. You can reuse this, or use a piece of shrink tubing or even aquarium air line.
    [quoted image]

    On my Scared Stiff the insulate tubing seems to only be on the “driven lead” (black+*) which is connected back to the board which grounds rather than the common +ve lead (red+white)....

    I was just wondering why only one lead? Surely either can short?

    If rebuilding would you add shrink tubing to both leads?

    Thanks

    Jason

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    #569 61 days ago
    Quoted from sudsy7:

    I believe the P/N for the backplate (which is used to mount the coil) is 535-7419-00. Good luck finding one! The old Stern "Thumper Bumper" (P/N B-695) from the 80's is a similar design and used a plate (P/N B-695-9) that looks eerily similar and in fact may be interchangeable but I wouldn't guarantee it.

    535-7419-00 seems to be the same as Homepin # 16 Pop Bumper Solenoid Mounting Plate.

    #570 61 days ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    same as Homepin # 16 Pop Bumper Solenoid Mounting Plate.

    I have no idea what that is without a drawing but if it's the same, you got your part.

    #571 61 days ago
    Quoted from sudsy7:

    I have no idea what that is without a drawing but if it's the same, you got your part.

    That part number is in the Thunderbirds manual on pages 29 and 30.

    #572 60 days ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    That part number is in the Thunderbirds manual on pages 29 and 30.

    Would that be for Thunderbird 1 or 2?

    72ED0BF2-0F74-41CF-AF3B-1BDB4C33CDD1 (resized).jpeg
    #573 60 days ago

    It's in this Thunderbirds manual (dated October 2018):

    http://www.homepin.com/kits/TAG_Service_Manual_Oct2018.pdf

    1 month later
    #574 2 days ago
    Quoted from trk12fire:

    How much of a difference does installing new capacitors make to 80's Williams pop bumpers?[quoted image]

    Did you install them. I just ordered some for my Williams Comet that I'm rebuilding pop bumpers on. My question is the original were non-polar/bi-polar and I can't tell from their website if these are bi-polar aka non-polar or polarized. I'm just wondering how orientated them?

    #575 2 days ago
    Quoted from Matthew2000tx:

    Did you install them. I just ordered some for my Williams Comet that I'm rebuilding pop bumpers on. My question is the original were non-polar/bi-polar and I can't tell from their website if these are bi-polar aka non-polar or polarized. I'm just wondering how orientated them?

    I just swapped some on my blackout, and it made a noticeable difference in the pop strength. Not crazy but, enough that I'll definitely be doing it on all my Williams moving forward.

    AFAIK, they're polarized. One end of the switch is connected to ground (black wire), so that's the side the negative lead of the cap goes to. I used 22uF, 50v electrolytic caps.

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