I am getting ideas for the Daleks in DW.

I tried your tutorial vid- thanks for the great idea! I got everything wired up, bought the flex super blue from coin taker, and some translucent blue buttons from pinballlife. From inside cabinet, everything looks nice and bright. But with the lights out, from the outside the light shining through appears rather dim. I have everything set up just like your pictures- any chance i should use a white light instead of blue (would that appear brighter?). Any other suggestions? Coin taker doesn't seem to make brighter flexes. Thanks!

A clear button with a colored led or a colored button with an ultra 555 Cool Would be a good idea.

P.s. ultra are so friggin bright I needed SPF 60 when I installed a few

lets see some pics..

Don't seem to be able to post pictures from my iPad, and the laptop's not working. Pics of LEDs don't seem to do justice anyways. I played with the angle of the flex a bit, and I think I got slightly better results, but stil not great. The voltage and the bulbs are good, but the blue translucent buttons from pinballlife I got don't glow like I'd like. I think I'll try either a white flex or ultrabright, or go with clear buttons with a blue light instead. Anyone else try vids idea want to chime in on their results (perhaps post the color the LEDs and buttons you used?).

Hey guys i really wanted to try this so i used my tri zone has my learning pin. It turned out better then i thought. My only issue that i have was that the clear buttons that i got was not as long as the old one, so i had to mod the eos switch a bit. pics attached. Thanks alot for the thread vid!

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I don't have any lying around, but I'm going to order some. I assume I want to order the 2 lead sockets??? What is a 1 lead socket and 3 lead socket for?

Would these be good?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=284

I want to get the long ones so I can use them to light scoops and what not.

heres my version. i went with 555 socket and 555 flex led bulb. decided to go with blue rather than cool. i used splice connectors to tap into the power for the coin door lamps. thanks vid

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I always thought that this was an excellent post. For those who didn't get a chance to see it. Thanks, Vid. Wally

Much appreciated for sure. Thanks for the bump.

I did this mod recently. It was a fun little project and lights the buttons up just as well as the expensive kits. Make sure to use the flex LEDs because with them you can direct the light to get maximum effect without much light bleeding up the sides toward the player's face.

I've done this on the F-14 i'm restoring, followed vid's directions exactly, even tied into the coin door lights.

It works flawlessly and looks great.

Thanks for the bump. Going to try this as well.

I found it still bled a bit too much on my EATPM so I layered a small bit of painters tap into a 'flap' that went over the assembly and shot it with a bit of gloss black to match the cab. Now it's flawlessly and reversible.

On my DM, I coughed up the big ducks so I can try out the fancy CT lighted flippers.

You coughed up ducks? Sounds painful.

Nice. Did you use a red or white led? For the red clear flipper buttons did you use red or white led's. Thanks for the great and easy to do mods.

Coming from video games myself, here is another source for short translucent leaf switch buttons (as well as easily 30 variations of opaque in short and long):

http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#buttons
Leaf sw button Short Blue Translucent $2.00
http://therealbobroberts.net/blubuts.jpg

BSOTW Trans Orange E-clip Short $1.00
BSGTW Trans Green E-clip Short $1.00
BSRTW Trans Red E-clip Short $1.00
http://therealbobroberts.net/buttons.html

I was an idiot and ordered a lighted flipper button kit. (NOT 64.00).
After installing the first kit. I made my own. Only I use #555 ct flexys.
I have a separate 12 volt power supply in all my machines. I use the power supply
to run all extra lights, el wire, flipper buttons and credit buttons.

It cost like 20 or 25 bucks shipped. http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Power_Products_(Electrical)/DC_Power_Supplies/12VDC,_24VDC_Enclosed_Panel_Mount_(RHINO_PSS_Series)

Then you can tie into the main power line (use a fuse) or use the "service outlet".

Live and learn or spend and learn!

Milton

Very nice...

I like the idea of tying the flipper buttons to the start button on the 90s Williams games so you get flashing buttons when the game is not in play. Cool idea.

20131019_215630[1].jpgJust tried this mod on my AC/DC premium and it looks great. I think the clear lighted buttons also look better than those ugly yellow Stern buttons.

Show the inside cab set-up.

Just saw this...opened it up and here are some pics...Not really a pretty job as I forgot to put shrinkwrap on the wires before soldering.

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Anyone else having F106 randomly blow as a result of this mod? I have performed this modification twice (WH20 and TAF) with little success. My setup is identical to what is discussed in this post (using coindoor GI as the source for 6.3V). Unfortunately, F106 randomly blows (could be mins, hours, or even days). What the heck am I doing wrong on this mod? Thanks!

Shooter coil lead touching the right hand light fixture?

Here are some pics. I got frustrated and changed the power source to an open +12V on the coin door controller board. So far, so good....

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light_flip_right_2.JPG

finder, bump

Ok, so I accidentally got 1 lead 44 sockets, can I just solder the other wire to the bracket like a standard insert socket?

All excellent questions, however, this is happening on both machines that I installed the flipper button mod. No F106 issues on either machine prior to mod (or after removing mod). I switched the power source from the 6.3V coin door lights to an open 12V on the coin door controller board (and added a resistor). Everything "seems" to be working. Time will tell.....

I got me some sockets and LED bulbs now........

Can you just solder the wires onto the existing wire clamp that is already there on the coin door GI?? In other words, these wires slide onto a flat piece, they aren't simply soldered on - so can I solder onto the metal "clamp" portion once I slide the plastic protective cover off???

Thanks,

Nate

Going to show my still wetness behind the ears here.

Also, posted to the wrong thread... anyway...

Do I want 5v or 12v for the ones below?

http://www.nicemite.com/LightmiteLB/LightmiteLB.htm

Hey Vid, it's exactly like on the photo you posted showing the coin door connectors when you recommended using that as a power source, those "Y" type thingies that slide onto the other flat metal "-" thingies right at the coin slots to make them light up!

Technical huh?

Thanks,

Nate

I have had zero response to my post http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-gun-feeder-hole-lighting. Since I am clearly desperate, is there someone on this thread who has some suggestions?

Vid, this is a beautiful mod, and I love it. One question.

I get that you are "tapping" into the wiring that goes into the coin door.

Here's my question: are you using T-taps to complete the circuit, or are you combining your lead wires for the flipper button lights with the GI lighting wires (basically, taking both wires, stripping the ends, combining their ends together, crimping a female lead on, and then plugging the female end to the male spade of the coin door light socket so both the coin door and the flipper button lights come on at the same time) ?

I've looked at everyone's pictures, but I don't think anyone has clearly shown the method they're using to tap the feed from the GI wiring to their flipper button's wiring.

Thanks guys!

Your second picture is exactly what I was thinking. Perfect! I have the #44 sockets here - now just just need some flex-LEDs, and I'll be ready to make this happen on TFTC and T3. Well done, Vid!

That's exactly my question - just a little more "clear!!" That makes sense, will have to get those spade splitters.

-Nate

Vid,
Do you have a link to those spade splitters? Google images is not finding them as you have them pictured.

Thanks,
RC

In case someone is interested:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-gun-feeder-hole-lighting#post-1412368

Just did this to my STLE. I chose to go with red to go with the phaser/photon torpedo effect on the sides. The buttons I was able to get are transparent red and are Williams parts so they were a little large for the recessed hole they were to fit in. I chucked them up in my wood lathe and turned them down a bit to fit. Mounted 2 LEDs behind each and tapped into the start button so that in attract mode they flash with the start button but are on solid while playing. I used a pair of spade splitters on the start button, and made a pair of jumpers down to a connection block that stern used for a common connection point. The block has 3 connections on it but Stern only used 1, so I used the other 2.

I think it turned out really nice. But then again, I'm biased.

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It looks orange in the photo, but it's actually red
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Can't seem to find any 1 3/8" trans flipper buttons to fit my Firepower. Any idea's guys?