Hi Vid,

Just got a Time Warp and wanted to Fuse the Bridge rectifiers (Like i read at the beginning of this thread). I removed the transformer cage and saw the blue wires to the right bridge have been hacked. They also look like they heated up...and have a couple heat melts in the sheathing.

I want to add fuse holders there, but the wires don't have enough "meat on the bone"...i think i need to splice and lengthen the wires?

Is there a best method for this other than splicing and soldering and rewrapping with electrical tape? That sounds sketchy.

I'm also considering replacing both bridge rectifiers, is that a LUG 35A 400V?

Thank you

rectifier burnt wires (resized).jpg

Peter,

Thank you. I found some blue heat shrink wrap on ebay...should i be looking for any particular size? 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 "? I'm thinking 1/4 ". Does it need any heat or volt specs? Here's what i found real quick ebay.com link: itm

I looked on Marco to see the bridge board, but i couldn't find it I did find these bridge rectifiers https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/KBPC3504-L do you know if they are good replacements? As far as I can tell they are.

Do you think the best way to extend the wires is still to just solder a new wire? The blue wires are braded wire, should i use more of that or can i use some 18 gauge solid core?

- Dan the Painter

Slochar, Rich, Peter and Flashball,

Thank you all for the quick feedback. All this info is gonna make it so much easier for me!

Question on the Bridge Board. It says it replaces the large Cap as well as fusing the 18v and 32 volt soldnoid circuits.

My plan is do the caps and all other upgrades on the Power Supply Board according to Vid and Clay's guides. What Cap is 6C1? Is that one of the caps on the power board or is it a different cap?

Think i'll order one from Bid Daddy and get this show started

Dan the Painter

thanks!

18 Gauge braded is what i want?

I do have a heat gun! (as a painter, i use it daily)

Thanks for the clear directions

Dan the Painter

Peter,

The instructions were very clear and answered the next set of questions i had

Ordering my Bridge Board now. I'll update with pics when its complete.

Thanks for all the info!

Dan the Painter

While I wait for the Bridge Board to get here, I noticed the J1 connector has a wire pulled out of it. The bottom right one. I am assuming that the gray w/white stripe wire is a ground...as it's been connected to the screw hole.

Can anyone confirm? Or maybe I'm wrong?

I can tell it's a female connector...but not sure on size? Marco has .93 and .62...is it one of these? They also have .156, but that looks like a different style.

Lastly, is there an easy tool to remove the old terminal? was just gonna pull with needle nose or maybe a paper clip.

Dan the Painter

J1 (resized).jpg

grey and white (resized).jpg

gonna print out this schematic and keep close by...

thanks again!

Thought i'd include this link on the lineman's splice.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/01/09/the-linemans-splice-how-to-make-reliable-electrical-connections-in-your-vehicles-wiring-harness-in-6-steps/

Thanks Schwaggs.

Ordering some now.

Peter,

The bridge board arrived and i started cutting away the components as per your instructions.

I think i know where all the wires go...except for one or maybe two (the ground wires on the new 5 pin J4 connector.) I don't see where they come from? Am i reusing the lose wire that went from the old rectifier to the big cap? There's a lose violet and one black.

Im pretty sure the 2 grounds for the 4 pin J3 connector come from the old J2 power supply connector.

But i don't see any other black wires? Where do they come from / lead to? I see you wrote you added an extra ground and it goes back to the back box...im assuming that is one of the 5 pin J4 ground wires i see in the picture...but where does the other one go or come from?

heres a pic. The 2 black wires you can see are from the old J2 connector from the power supply...

ground (resized).jpg

Peter,

thanks so much for taking the time to be as clear as you have. I really appreciate it. Before i read your response, I went back and reread the Blackout link you posted. And in his pic, there were only 2 ground wires, both coming from the J2. One went to one of the 4 pin GNDs and one to one of the 5 pin's. I am obviously a newbie but feel like I'm learning a ton with everyone's help. I will use the loose black wire and add a ground.

Will post pics when done.

Schwaggs, the molex remover tool came and it made the job super easy...I did stab my-self in the finger but got the connector out without damaging the housing!

Re-crimping the CT and adding back to the housing was super easy too.

Many thanks!

Time Warp

Ok. Got it all installed. I really wanna turn it on to see the green lights, but I'm gonna wait until I rebuild the power supply first as per this guide.

Here's a bunch of pics if anyone was interested.

First 2 pics are of me splicing the blue wires from the transformer. I also wrapped the red wires as there were 2 spots that looked like maybe a soldering iron melted the insulation.

I also moved the GI fuses to the left little to fit the board where Inko shows on his firepower instructions.

splice 2 (resized).jpg

splice 3 (resized).jpg

inko 1 (resized).jpg

inko 2 (resized).jpg

put back (resized).jpg

cage (resized).jpg

Ok, I was wondering about that.

To be clear...All i need to disconnect at this time is the J1?

What if i disconnect all the connectors on the power supply but the J2? Will the green still light? Just curious.

I"ll try later tonight after work

Thanks again Peter!!

- Dan the Painter

Green Lights!!!

green led (resized).jpg

Finally Got my Power Supply Board rebuilt (I'm slow) . Still haven't turned the game on as I still got to rebuild the MPU...But here's what the DMM was showing when I tested it. Wanted to see what you guys thought.

12 Volt section...According to Clay's guides...should read between 10 and 14...Mine was 13.87...Looks real good!
5 Volt section...According to Clay's guides...should read between 4.9 and 5.2...Mine was 5.032...Looks real good!
High Voltage sections...According to Clay's guides J5 Pin 3...should read between -90 and -105...Mine was -92.6...Looks real good!
and J5 Pin 4...should read between +90 and +105...Mine was 93.1...Looks real good!
Lamp Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J4 Pin 5-8...should read between 16-20...Mine was 20.87...A little High
Solenoid Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J3 Pin 6-9...should read between 28-38...Mine was 40.79...A little High

Looks like most are real good! I have a small concern with the Lamp and Solenoid voltages as they are a little high. What do you think? Am I done or should i be making sure that all the Voltages are firmly inside those ranges? What do I even need to do to get them lower?

Here's a pic showing the rebuild board. I did all the steps on this forum.

Next is the 40 Pin connector and replacing the ROM chip sockets.

supply (resized).jpg

Thats what i wanted to hear!

Onto the 40 Pin and SCANBE sockets!

Ok...Finally getting around to working on the boards again (I'm super slow). Removing the SCANBE pins is a PIA. I got the hang of it for most but there's usually one on each row that either breaks or just won't come loose...anyway...i got them all finally. Ended up getting new soldering tips, including some more narrow ones, and that helped a bunch.

got a quick question...and i think i know the answer but just curious...again

I accidentally removed the plastic from one of the unused SCANBE sockets...even though Vid said not to bother with
My question is what's the easiest course of action now?

1. Leave it alone, just make sure none of the pins are bent and touching
2. Remove the pins and leave the holes empty...(Pretty sure they dont need a pin in there for the signal to pass thru)
3. Remove the pins and put in new connectors...even though they will never be used
4. Leave the pins in there, and short snip the tips off so they can't ever touch in the future.

Any issues if i do number 4?

What do you think is the best course? Is there another option I'm not thinking of? I know it's really hard to get the pins out after i short snip them (should i need the board for another game, but i don't think i care about that).

Dan the Painter

board2 (resized).jpg

thanks Joe

that's what I'm leaning towards. Just snip it off and leave a small leg of the pin forever inside.

You dont see any issues with this...right?

Yeah.

Im on the fence...But you do make it sound more like the "right" way to do it.

Thanks Vid.

It seems like there's several ways to tackle this...

Does anyone see a problem with any of the ways i mentioned? Like, will it not work if i do it that way?

thanks for all the input everyone

lol...can you make a video of that? thats gotta be impossible

Ok...my only concern is that many of the terminals got bent when removing. Would you still attempt after you bent them...i would try to bend them back first.

slightly different topic...while looking at at my ROM chips...(i have a time warp too like this thread) i have different chips.
Vids picture has the TIME WARP chip in the 3rd bay, to the right of the ROM 2 chip...and nothing in the above 3 bays.

Mine has nothing in the 3rd bay, to the right of the ROM 2 chip (thats actually the scanbe that i removed and left traces behind.)

I have chips in all the above 3 bays...and Vid has nothing in those.

any thoughts?

3 bay (resized).jpg

and the 40 pin female seems to be sold out at Mouser, digi key and Great Plains...and i cant find at Marco.

Any other suggestions? ( i thought i had already ordered it...but ordered 2 sets of male header pins

Oh ok. that makes sense...Thanks!

So, was the 3 chips, like you see in mine, the original way? I've seen a few other pictures of the TIME WARP mpu and all have just one TW chip like Vid's.

As far as you can tell...does anything look wrong with mine? (I am still learning and havent even turned this game on yet)

After a second and third try...I did find these at marco...not the cheapest but they are in stock!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=09+52+3102