Quoted from thetonywarren:

Hope Im not hijacking this thread, and I do realize it's YEARS old, but I'll try anyways.....
First, many thanks to vid1900 for starting this thread, extremely helpful and a good read.....
I am a new owner of a Black Knight. It's the version with the transformer in the cabinet, not the backbox, but of course it was plagued by the power supply issues with the burned connectors and janky wiring. I have read through a great deal of this thread and have done the modification of the AC input for the bridge rectifiers...I have also replaced the bridge rectifiers with new ones just to be safe.....
I have also repinned the GI connector with new, and put new pin headers on the power supply.... Also installed new AC input connector on the board and repinned a new AC input cable connector.
My next question relates to the GI output and fusing the separate lines....I have included a picture of what the machine looked like when I got it and now how it looks after the new fuse blocks....
Statement 1: I have changed all incandescent lamps to 2SMD LED's from Comet Pinball
Question 1: am I doing this right?
Question 2: I understand that the GI fuse was a 20A fast acting fuse, should the separate lines to the individual lighting circuits be fast acting or slow blow?
Question 3: I currently have 5A slow blow fuses for the individual LED lighting circuits. I understand from reading the post that I should do a better job of sizing the fuses correctly. ( I will be taking current readings from each separate lighting circuit and sizing accordingly....) this is especially relevant to my situation as I have added spotlights on my playfield, upper and lower, as well as some comet matrix lighting strips for additional GI.
Statement: 2 I reveiwed this document for some help with fuse sizing and will be sizing my fuses to be 135% of my FLA (full load amps) on EACH circuit.....
https://uk.trgcomponents.com/uploads/media/FuseSelectionGuide_RevA_01.pdf
Question 4: again, am I doing this right? Please respond with any suggestions and/or feedback, it is all welcome, and appreciated.
Thanks!!
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Quoted from someotherguy:

A small amount of apples to oranges but still a fair comparison, IMO:
When Williams ditched the single 20A fuse on the power supply for the GI circuit, and branched it into 4 separate fuses, they went with 5A SB. Not FB.
I've had a bit of trouble pawing through online PDF's for proof, but my Pinbot for example, has a factory-installed label on the board mounting plate next to the GI fuse holder very clearly stating 5A SB for each position. From this, I have modeled my 4 fuse modifications on earlier games to use 5A SB's.
Richard

Quoted from slochar:

Operator replacement lifetime fuse.[quoted image]

Quoted from BuuBot:

I got the new MPU/Driver combo board from rottendog today. Plugged it in and BAM it works! How exciting! I'm sure the problem with the old board had something to do with the ic's. Now I get to do the fun stuff like rebuilding some flippers and cleaning contacts for switches. Does anyone here have any good diagrams for the wiring in the cabinet? I've noticed a few loose wires and am having trouble finding their homes.

Quoted from noopy:

I went ahead and moved the fuses to the AC input side of the rectifiers instead of the DC output side. I don’t have any 8A fuses on hand so I might just try the 5A and see if is enough for Gorgar.
It also looks like the J2 header on my power board is missing and the - DC wire from my lamp rectifier and one of the black wires from the large cap have been (poorly) soldered directly to the board bridging 4 of the J2 pins is that how it’s supposed to be connected? They put spade connectors on the two black wires so it can be disconnected at least…
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