I'll link to this in the "post purchase checklist" -- really appreciate the step-by-step description/pics
-mof

Sorry to hear that. You are not the only one who has been "putting off" putting the safety fuses in.
-mof

Vid -- Todd has a very interesting idea at 3:33 in... What are your thoughts on this bullet proofing idea?

He suggests removing the single 20a fuse for the lamps, and install 4 individual 5a fuses for each line. (for all Williams 1977-1982 (roughly))

-mof

Dear vid,
In the spirit of future-proofing your pins...
Can you please explain why you recommend replacing most 30-40year old caps, but not the big blue one? (30,000 uf)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/30000-uf-cap-substitute-for-bk?tu=vid1900

thanks,
mof

OK, good info.
-mof

Vid, What would Todd's 4-fused GI setup look like?

I see 4 yellow wires coming into the top of the 20a fuse, and 1 going out of the bottom?

Would you set up 4 fuse blocks, and then just have one yellow coming into each 5amp fuse? What's the best way to join up the bottom of the 4? Same wire for GI braid?

Curious: What are the unfused yellow wires on left?

-mof

201505_Gor-GI-fuse-idea.jpg

Looking at my pic, I just have one yellow on the south side -- does that mean I just connect it, and then run a braid across the other 3 lugs?
-mof

Will have to check later.
-mof

Vid, can you list out what components are required to replace 3J1 and 3J2 for both the power supply board and the connectors?

I found this for 3J2, but I'm not familiar with that type of pin.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp

thanks,
-mof

OK, so the male and female pins for the female connector are standard. But for the piece you mount on the board it has its own special pins that are built in. Then the female connector is special due to the shape.

So for a guy who already has a full collection of 0.93 parts -- I just need the new piece connected to the board and the new 6-pin female connector due to the shape. I already have the pins that will go inside the female connector.

Am I interpreting all this correctly?
Mof

Can you recommend a resource which describes what voltages to expect and how/where to measure them on the power supply board?
thanks,
mof

Looking at a 2008 Clay guide online, I see what voltages to expect, but not where/how to measure them:

The "power supply" (that is, the transformer, the power supply board, and the backbox attached bridge rectifiers/filter capacitor) outputs the following 7 voltages:

+5vdc regulated logic power.
+12vdc unregulated, often called "unregulated 5 volts" by Williams, because on the CPU board the unregulated 12 volts gets knocked down to about 5 volts.
+18vdc lamp matrix power (for game controlled lamps).
+28vdc solenoid/flipper power.
+/- 100vdc score display power.
6.3vac General Illumination lamp power.
+50 volts DC (for flippers), Firepower2 and later, via an additional flipper power supply board.

Ok, I did a check on my Gorgar System 6, and got the following values:

TP results on the power supply board:

3J3, solenoids, 40 VDC
3J4, lamps, 22 VDC
3J5, logic, 5 VDC
3J5, display, 90 VDC (used the updated parts to drop this voltage -- expected)
3J6, logic, 5 VDC

So, most important, logic and displays are great.

I'm wondering about lamps and solenoids -- are 22 and 40 VDC ok?

(As for the brightness and power of the solenoids they all seem perfect when playing.)

thanks for your input...
-mof

Thank you -- can someone elaborate a bit more about this response? (with respect to "having load" and which voltages should sometimes be a bit higher than normal?)
-mof

My Firepower worked a few games, then wouldn't. Something flaky going on (a connection?)
2amp SB would blow sometimes (put a breaker on it for now)
Recently -- wouldn't even go into audit. With the help of a friend with a few more diagnostic tools, we discovered:

1. bad 6810
2. he replaced 4 crap sockets
3. I replaced 40-pin inter-connect female and reflowed male pins and wire brushed 'em good, then cleaned 'em and applied some deoxit

Low and behold I now have a solid Firepower with no more flickering xpin displays!

Thanks for the tips, vid!
-mof