Maybe a little hacky but when having no spade terminals on hand I have also just cut the wires in the middle and soldered the fuse holders in. Hey, at least it's a safety hack.

For reference the last System 7 power supply I did was only giving me +50V on the +100V line after doing the usual diode and resistor upgrades/replacements, causing a weird laggy/strobey effect on the displays. The problem was the 100mfd cap on the plus side.

Here is a good replacement heat sink for the SDS-201/202 transistors if anyone needs one: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/507302B00000G/HS115-ND/5849

I would also recommend using a thermal pad for better heat transfer: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/HF115AC-0.0055-AC-54/BER167-ND/307789

Vid, tell me to shut up if you want
I just finished doing a couple of System 6/7 power supplies so I'm just dumping info in case it is helpful for anyone else.

I have seen some Type 1 soundboards using a 12000mfd filter cap, while some others and the Type 2 boards all use a 4700mfd cap. If you're replacing caps and have the 12000mfd on yours, you can save a few bucks with the 4700mfd replacement.

What problem are you having?

After the last several project games I've worked on, I'm with John on this. Too much thinking everything is all fixed and good to go only to have to keep pulling boards back out after a week or a month because one of the score displays started acting up or the sound started playing the wrong sounds... Just get a big sack of 9 pin headers from Tayda, at $.10 each it is so worth it.

Hmm, well, I'm not sure how that's going to work if it all has to go through the one relay.

For GI issues I usually start by taking all the bulbs out and clipping an old 9-volt onto the GI wires, then adding bulbs one at a time. But that's with the playfield out of the machine and disassembled, so probably not much help in this case...