(Topic ID: 35328)

Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 1,138 posts
  • 216 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by jar155
  • Topic is favorited by 652 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider desertt1.
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#785 4 years ago

I am working on a Laser Ball and have replaced the sockets. I added a watch battery to the area where the battery holder was removed.

When I power it up and it displays what the picture is showing. “1493 2” up top, with maybe a digit out. The bottom display is “04 00”.

I read that this is because of batteries being dead, and was happening before I put the new holder in. So now no difference because of the battery.

I also read that if you have the game on, then flip the switch real quick that it will boot. Well, it does do that. The battery is supposed to fix that. So, I’m back to stuck, but a little further along. Any tips?

5DC67DC9-A295-42EE-BF7D-9C097C937B18 (resized).jpeg5DC67DC9-A295-42EE-BF7D-9C097C937B18 (resized).jpeg
#786 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I am working on a Laser Ball and have replaced the sockets. I added a watch battery to the area where the battery holder was removed.
When I power it up and it displays what the picture is showing. “1493 2” up top, with maybe a digit out. The bottom display is “04 00”.
I read that this is because of batteries being dead, and was happening before I put the new holder in. So now no difference because of the battery.
I also read that if you have the game on, then flip the switch real quick that it will boot. Well, it does do that. The battery is supposed to fix that. So, I’m back to stuck, but a little further along. Any tips?[quoted image]

I got it to boot. Next step is to figure out why the coil fuse is blowing.

#788 4 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Disconnect all the coil connectors (2J9, 2J11, 2J12).
Power-up the game and see if the fuse still blows.
If no, the problem is in one of the coils or it's drivers.
With the power still on, carefully connect one connector at a time.
At the moment of connecting the bad coil you will see a spark, which can lead to the bad coil.
Check the manual for the connection and the coil to check.
Peter

I ohm'd out all of the coils and they checked out as being ok. Should I also do diode testing on the drivers? Or am I likely looking at a different short? Prior to this, I don't remember a coil locking on ever, so might be a hidden short. I will see what I can find and report back.

1 month later
#802 4 years ago

Laser Ball was playing just fine at the house. I loaded it up and moved it to a location spot. Play testing it there and the outhole kicker isn't kicking very hard at all. It seems to be trying twice and then it just stops trying. Drop targets reset fine, pops are popping strong, and it saucer in the upper right was kicking when I trigger the switch. Seems like this one coil is struggling and I'm sort of at a loss because it works, just weak.

1 year later
#950 3 years ago

I was playing Laser Ball today and I double flipped and the game froze. Reading Pinwiki I see two different pieces of advice, but I'm not quite sure what it is referring to when it says "rebuild the solenoid power circuit" in 6.13.7. That is the lower info with the blue tick mark.

The upper info is from 6.7, and I can do that too, but need to know what to check/replace for the solenoid power circuit.

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#952 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Is it still frozen, or was it a one time occurrence?

If I power cycle it and start a new game, I can double flip before plunging the ball and it will lock up and kill the displays.

#954 3 years ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

don't mean to hijack your thread vid1900.
the solenoid power circuit is 25.5VAC from the transformer going to BR2 mounted on the ground plane and it being converted to the 28VDC for the solenoids, not much to it.
i believe in that text marked with blue they are referring to the logic circuit, which is covered in this thread post #80

Thanks, I will follow that and get the parts suggested.

1 week later
#956 3 years ago

So I rebuilt the power supply board caps and played a few games fine. Today I turned it on, added some credits and walked away for a while. Came back to this. It froze with zero gameplay. Is that a clue to anything?

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1 year later
#1009 1 year ago

I could use a little help with a switch issue. My 7/8 rollerover at the top of Laser Ball isn't working and looking at the matrix, some other switches in the row are working, and others are not. This is all on the white/blue wire, which is switch 14 (middle left side standup) which is not working, 22 (E drop target) not working, 30 (7/8 rollover) not working, 38 (BALL drop target series complete) undecided but I think it's not working, 46 (right jet bumper) WORKING, and 54 (5 star rollover) not working.

I have inspected each switch and none of the wires have broken free. If the picture of the matrix is correct and the "5" rollover is the last one in the line, that would make sense because it has a single wire, and seems to be the end of the daisy chain. Maybe that's the case, maybe not. Either way, with a switch in the middle of the chain working I don't know it's a wiring issue.

Sort of out of guesses, so any thoughts would be welcome.

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#1011 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I could use a little help with a switch issue. My 7/8 rollerover at the top of Laser Ball isn't working and looking at the matrix, some other switches in the row are working, and others are not. This is all on the white/blue wire, which is switch 14 (middle left side standup) which is not working, 22 (E drop target) not working, 30 (7/8 rollover) not working, 38 (BALL drop target series complete) undecided but I think it's not working, 46 (right jet bumper) WORKING, and 54 (5 star rollover) not working.
I have inspected each switch and none of the wires have broken free. If the picture of the matrix is correct and the "5" rollover is the last one in the line, that would make sense because it has a single wire, and seems to be the end of the daisy chain. Maybe that's the case, maybe not. Either way, with a switch in the middle of the chain working I don't know it's a wiring issue.
Sort of out of guesses, so any thoughts would be welcome.[quoted image]

Got it sorted out. The wire had pulled out of the IDC connector to the point it was very loosely held. Not sure how the pop register in switch test and nothing else did unless the pop firing moved the wire in the housing enough that switch test recorded the EOS switch used to give points. Just finished redoing a new connector and everything is working great.

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