(Topic ID: 35328)

Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 21 days ago by jar155
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#33 11 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

International Rectifier's full manufacturer part number is : IRF9Z34NPBF

You can also get them from Digikey

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRF9Z34NPBF/IRF9Z34NPBF-ND/811960

and anything over $25 your less than a $1/per...

Plus if you really want to cut down on more heat, replace the TIP41's with IRFZ34NPBF's.... They are the 'NPN' version of the IRF9Z34NPBF (just like the TIP41 is the NPN version of the TIP42)

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IRFZ34NPBF/IRFZ34NPBF-ND/811724

2 weeks later
#39 11 years ago

Welp, they got some in right. Don't that count?

4 months later
#125 10 years ago
Quoted from cichlid:

Everyone always says you can't put a sys3-6 driver board on a system 7 CPU, but why?

They appear to be exactly the same board.

One difference, look in the upper right corner while holding the 40 pin connector up... You'll see that instead of resistors on the switch matrix, they used 0 ohm jumpers on the system 7 board. This is one change to make the switch matrix more responsive.

You'll want to match a 7 with a 7, but I don't think you HAVE to. If you don't then you could get intermittent weirdness in the switches.

9 months later
#190 9 years ago

And if anyone is interested, yes, you can do the TIP42/Resistor -> MosFET/Jumper mod to the Hyperball specific driver board to cut down on a lot of backbox heat and increase reliability.

A before and after shot....

800px-HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg800px-HyperBallSpecificDriverBoard.jpg
20140522_154826.jpg20140522_154826.jpg

1 year later
#317 8 years ago

Back in the module repair depot we used to have these board sized temp sensitive plastic sheets (kind of like a mood ring) that we would lay over the board and connect a power source and it would light up as the area got warm. Maybe something like that? Or a thermal camera?

Barring that, you are going to be cutting traces me thinks.

1 week later
#320 8 years ago

Got a stronger supply?

Crank up the amps and see what glows.

2 weeks later
#337 8 years ago

Vid is correct.
Which is why it is called an "unregulated" power supply.

A regulated supply would have a ummmmm regulator in the circuit that would be watching the output and compensating for the load change and resultant drop.

The 12v supply in B/W games is a good example of an unregulated supply. When you add mods you need to watch the voltage so that you do not pull it down too far and cause weirdness.

4 months later
#358 8 years ago

Right off the top, those appear to be original caps. If this was mine, I would replace them before I even lifted a meter or troubleshot anything. It really is not worth my time or effort otherwise.

#364 8 years ago

Those two vertical black caps are the exact same, just orientated opposite polarity. Both are 100uf

#367 8 years ago

https://greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=75

Go there, find the kit. Change all that are in the kit. If GPE is out of stock, Ed does list the contents and you can order individually. You will come across one cap that is out of stock causing that kit to be out of stock, for that one simply go higher in voltage as a sub.

1 week later
#372 8 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

So I replaced all the capacitors. When I turn the game on, the F2 solenoid/Flashlamp fuse blows. Checked connections, can't find a bad one...
Can someone tell me based on the power supply... which capacitors COULD cause this fuse to blow? So I can narrow it down?
Thanks.

New caps are VERY VERY rarely bad. Double check the polarity of the caps you replaced. We've all put one in backwards at least once (maybe twice but I aint talkin).

If they are all in correct, disconnect the output to the flash/sols. Does the fuse still blow? If no then you need to look off supply and maybe you shorted something lifting and lowering the playfield.

4 months later
#395 7 years ago

Really nice write up and homage to this thread. Thanks.

4 weeks later
#403 7 years ago

+1

And the Power Supply would have a GI relay mounted on it it it were a 7. Instead of mounted off board.

Exception is Black Knight is one machine that came out using a Sys 6 P/S in early units (transformer in head with GI relay in head) then swapped to a Sys 7 supply (transformer in body) for rest of run.

1 month later
#419 7 years ago
Quoted from DorothyMacaw:

The solenoids all work in game mode, but will randomly generate a tilt when triggered and kill all the solenoids and flippers until the ball drains. I didn't check the voltage before I pulled the board, but can only assume that I created the voltage being high.

Or you are tilting? With game started, can you thump the side of your fist on the playfield and not Tilt? Can you slap both flippers and not Tilt?

#421 7 years ago

Sigh,,, I did not mean you were abusing the machine to make it fail, I mean CAN you do those things to cause the problem.

That would indicate that a slam switch is adjusted too close and the solenoids movement is tripping it.
Or that multiple sols firing at once was dipping the watchdog timer threshold on the cpu.

1 year later
#600 6 years ago
Quoted from tomm1963:

I was nervous about the above suggestion as no one on this thread has mentioned anything about it since the OP.

Sorry, other life stuff been pulling me away from pins. You did not mention what game you tried this on. AFAIK anyone who has done this on Williams has had no issues, but there were some issues seen in DE, There was a thread about that somewhere where the fix is to add a small value resistor back into the circuit.

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