(Topic ID: 35328)

Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7

By vid1900

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 23 days ago by zug1619
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There are 1,098 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 3 months ago

Now that Great Plains Electronics is closed where is everyone getting there WMS electronic needs? I need to but the female 40 pin connectors… what is good source?

#1052 3 months ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Now that Great Plains Electronics is closed where is everyone getting there WMS electronic needs? I need to but the female 40 pin connectors… what is good source?

Bigdaddy-enterprises.com sells the 40 pin as a kit

He also sells this on his eBay store, but may be temporarily closed while he's been catching up on other things.

#1053 3 months ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Now that Great Plains Electronics is closed where is everyone getting there WMS electronic needs? I need to but the female 40 pin connectors… what is good source?

I ordered some from Digikey. Mouser may also have some.

One thing I’d like to find more sources for are the large 18000uf axial caps just used my last one.

#1054 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I ordered some from Digikey. Mouser may also have some.
One thing I’d like to find more sources for are the large 18000uf axial caps just used my last one.

What part numbers did you use when ordering from digikey?

#1055 3 months ago

I’ve found the female connectors at Mouser. Part #538-09-48-2086 (8 pin)
Arcade Parts and Repair also has them. Part #CA1033 (10 pin)

Both companies also sell the axial 18000uf capacitor, although the one from Mouser is priced quite high.

1 month later
#1056 56 days ago

Hi Vid,

Just got a Time Warp and wanted to Fuse the Bridge rectifiers (Like i read at the beginning of this thread). I removed the transformer cage and saw the blue wires to the right bridge have been hacked. They also look like they heated up...and have a couple heat melts in the sheathing.

I want to add fuse holders there, but the wires don't have enough "meat on the bone"...i think i need to splice and lengthen the wires?

Is there a best method for this other than splicing and soldering and rewrapping with electrical tape? That sounds sketchy.

I'm also considering replacing both bridge rectifiers, is that a LUG 35A 400V?

Thank you

rectifier burnt wires (resized).jpg
#1057 56 days ago
Quoted from SMP14:

Hi there, I have a Williams time warp head with all the wire harnesses for the backbox. How hard would it be to upgrade the wire harness to a system 7 to make, oh idk a warlok or something. Any documentation on what the difference/conversion is? Thanks

I did this. I converted a Tri Zone to run a Cosmic Gunfight playfield. I probably should have documented what I did. I definitely had to repin one of the cabinet connectors to make it System 7 compatible. There was a GI connector is had to make. Luckily the system 6 and system 7 displays are the same width. You can mount the system 7 displays with two nuts if you are a low life like me. Also, the position of the Trizone displays and Cosmic Gunfight displays pretty much lined up. I think that was it?

#1058 55 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Hi Vid,
Just got a Time Warp and wanted to Fuse the Bridge rectifiers (Like i read at the beginning of this thread). I removed the transformer cage and saw the blue wires to the right bridge have been hacked. They also look like they heated up...and have a couple heat melts in the sheathing.
I want to add fuse holders there, but the wires don't have enough "meat on the bone"...i think i need to splice and lengthen the wires?
Is there a best method for this other than splicing and soldering and rewrapping with electrical tape? That sounds sketchy.
I'm also considering replacing both bridge rectifiers, is that a LUG 35A 400V?
Thank you[quoted image]

The wires are comming directly from inside the transformer.
It is very hard to replace them nicely (afaik).
It is obvious that the previous owner had bridge rectifier problems in the past.
The blue wires are the power wires for the controled lamps (18V).
Extending those wires would be you best option.
See if you can find blue heat shrink tubing and put that over the damaged wires.
Adding fuses to the rectifiers is an absolute MUST DO to avoid a fire hazard.

My Bridge Board is also a great solution.
Replacing the large cap, rectifiers and adding the fuses all on one board.
There is a nice image in the Blackout club topic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5277371
The Bridge Board is available from Big Daddy Enterprises and Marco Specialties.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

#1059 55 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The wires are comming directly from inside the transformer.
It is very hard to replace them nicely (afaik).
It is obvious that the previous owner had bridge rectifier problems in the past.
The blue wires are the power wires for the controled lamps (18V).
Extending those wires would be you best option.
See if you can find blue heat shrink tubing and put that over the damaged wires.
Adding fuses to the rectifiers is an absolute MUST DO to avoid a fire hazard.
My Bridge Board is also a great solution.
Replacing the large cap, rectifiers and adding the fuses all on one board.
There is a nice image in the Blackout club topic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5277371
The Bridge Board is available from Big Daddy Enterprises and Marco Specialties.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Peter,

Thank you. I found some blue heat shrink wrap on ebay...should i be looking for any particular size? 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 "? I'm thinking 1/4 ". Does it need any heat or volt specs? Here's what i found real quick ebay.com link: itm

I looked on Marco to see the bridge board, but i couldn't find it I did find these bridge rectifiers https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/KBPC3504-L do you know if they are good replacements? As far as I can tell they are.

Do you think the best way to extend the wires is still to just solder a new wire? The blue wires are braded wire, should i use more of that or can i use some 18 gauge solid core?

- Dan the Painter

#1060 55 days ago

Don't use solid core wire.

#1061 55 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

...I looked on Marco to see the bridge board, but i couldn't find it

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5040-09051-RC

The Bridge Board is an elegant solution to a real significant problem.

///Rich

#1062 55 days ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5040-09051-RC
The Bridge Board is an elegant solution to a real significant problem.
///Rich

Thank you for the link.
It currently says "out of stock", but I recently send a fresh box of 50 Bridge Boards so they will be available within a few weeks.

#1063 55 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Peter,
Thank you. I found some blue heat shrink wrap on ebay...should i be looking for any particular size? 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 "? I'm thinking 1/4 ". Does it need any heat or volt specs? Here's what i found real quick ebay.com link: itm
I looked on Marco to see the bridge board, but i couldn't find it I did find these bridge rectifiers https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/KBPC3504-L do you know if they are good replacements? As far as I can tell they are.
Do you think the best way to extend the wires is still to just solder a new wire? The blue wires are braded wire, should i use more of that or can i use some 18 gauge solid core?
- Dan the Painter

I think a 1/4 will do.
The voltage on the wire is about 20VAC, no need to worry about that.
Use braded wire, not solid, and the same thickness as the old ones.

See the link above for the Bridge Board at Marco Specialties.

#1064 55 days ago

http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/BridgeBoard.html

Here's a link to inkochnito's bridge board at Bigdaddy if you want to save a few bucks and don't want to wait on marco.

#1065 55 days ago

Slochar, Rich, Peter and Flashball,

Thank you all for the quick feedback. All this info is gonna make it so much easier for me!

Question on the Bridge Board. It says it replaces the large Cap as well as fusing the 18v and 32 volt soldnoid circuits.

My plan is do the caps and all other upgrades on the Power Supply Board according to Vid and Clay's guides. What Cap is 6C1? Is that one of the caps on the power board or is it a different cap?

Think i'll order one from Bid Daddy and get this show started

Dan the Painter

#1066 55 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Don't use solid core wire.

thanks!

18 Gauge braded is what i want?

#1067 54 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Slochar, Rich, Peter and Flashball,
Thank you all for the quick feedback. All this info is gonna make it so much easier for me!
Question on the Bridge Board. It says it replaces the large Cap as well as fusing the 18v and 32 volt soldnoid circuits.
My plan is do the caps and all other upgrades on the Power Supply Board according to Vid and Clay's guides. What Cap is 6C1? Is that one of the caps on the power board or is it a different cap?
Think i'll order one from Bid Daddy and get this show started
Dan the Painter

It does not replace the caps on the power supply board, just the super large cap in the backbox.

#1068 54 days ago

yes 18 gauge braided is fine. Make a lineman's splice and solder it, then slip the heatshrink on, heatshrink with a heat gun if you have one if not you can use the soldering iron if you are quick and don't touch the heat shrink tubing. (Match/lighter will work too)

Then attach the other end to whatever it's going to.... the bridge board connector I'm guessing. I'd leave about 10" extra for the future.

#1069 54 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/BridgeBoard.html
Here's a link to inkochnito's bridge board at Bigdaddy if you want to save a few bucks and don't want to wait on marco.

Darn, I could not find it at Big Daddy.
Gladd you did.

#1070 54 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Slochar, Rich, Peter and Flashball,
Thank you all for the quick feedback. All this info is gonna make it so much easier for me!
Question on the Bridge Board. It says it replaces the large Cap as well as fusing the 18v and 32 volt soldnoid circuits.
My plan is do the caps and all other upgrades on the Power Supply Board according to Vid and Clay's guides. What Cap is 6C1? Is that one of the caps on the power board or is it a different cap?
Think i'll order one from Bid Daddy and get this show started
Dan the Painter

Yes, the 6C1 is the super large 30000 uF cap and is used for the controled lamps.
My Bridge Board also replaces that big cap.

The caps on the Power Supply you will have to do yourself.

Please goto my website and click on the Bridge Board image.
Then you can select the language of your choice and follow the instructions for a game like Fire Power.
There is also a pdf file available with more information.
http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/index.htm

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

#1071 54 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

yes 18 gauge braided is fine. Make a lineman's splice and solder it, then slip the heatshrink on, heatshrink with a heat gun if you have one if not you can use the soldering iron if you are quick and don't touch the heat shrink tubing. (Match/lighter will work too)
Then attach the other end to whatever it's going to.... the bridge board connector I'm guessing. I'd leave about 10" extra for the future.

I do have a heat gun! (as a painter, i use it daily)

Thanks for the clear directions

Dan the Painter

#1072 54 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Yes, the 6C1 is the super large 30000 uF cap and is used for the controled lamps.
My Bridge Board also replaces that big cap.
The caps on the Power Supply you will have to do yourself.
Please goto my website and click on the Bridge Board image.
Then you can select the language of your choice and follow the instructions for a game like Fire Power.
There is also a pdf file available with more information.
http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/index.htm
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Peter,

The instructions were very clear and answered the next set of questions i had

Ordering my Bridge Board now. I'll update with pics when its complete.

Thanks for all the info!

Dan the Painter

1 week later
#1073 45 days ago

While I wait for the Bridge Board to get here, I noticed the J1 connector has a wire pulled out of it. The bottom right one. I am assuming that the gray w/white stripe wire is a ground...as it's been connected to the screw hole.

Can anyone confirm? Or maybe I'm wrong?

I can tell it's a female connector...but not sure on size? Marco has .93 and .62...is it one of these? They also have .156, but that looks like a different style.

Lastly, is there an easy tool to remove the old terminal? was just gonna pull with needle nose or maybe a paper clip.

Dan the Painter

J1 (resized).jpggrey and white (resized).jpg
#1074 45 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

While I wait for the Bridge Board to get here, I noticed the J1 connector has a wire pulled out of it. The bottom right one. I am assuming that the gray w/white stripe wire is a ground...as it's been connected to the screw hole.
Can anyone confirm? Or maybe I'm wrong?
I can tell it's a female connector...but not sure on size? Marco has .93 and .62...is it one of these? They also have .156, but that looks like a different style.
Lastly, is there an easy tool to remove the old terminal? was just gonna pull with needle nose or maybe a paper clip.
Dan the Painter
[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks indeed like a ground wire for the 18Vac.
It is actualy the center tap from the transformer, which is ground.
As for the size I think it is a 0.084 size, but I'm not sure.

Williams Firepower Power Board.pdf
#1075 45 days ago

gonna print out this schematic and keep close by...

thanks again!

#1076 45 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

yes 18 gauge braided is fine. Make a lineman's splice and solder it, then slip the heatshrink on, heatshrink with a heat gun if you have one if not you can use the soldering iron if you are quick and don't touch the heat shrink tubing. (Match/lighter will work too)
Then attach the other end to whatever it's going to.... the bridge board connector I'm guessing. I'd leave about 10" extra for the future.

Thought i'd include this link on the lineman's splice.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/01/09/the-linemans-splice-how-to-make-reliable-electrical-connections-in-your-vehicles-wiring-harness-in-6-steps/

#1077 44 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

While I wait for the Bridge Board to get here, I noticed the J1 connector has a wire pulled out of it. The bottom right one. I am assuming that the gray w/white stripe wire is a ground...as it's been connected to the screw hole.
Can anyone confirm? Or maybe I'm wrong?
I can tell it's a female connector...but not sure on size? Marco has .93 and .62...is it one of these? They also have .156, but that looks like a different style.
Lastly, is there an easy tool to remove the old terminal? was just gonna pull with needle nose or maybe a paper clip.
Dan the Painter
[quoted image][quoted image]

They are 0.93 molex connectors. You need the socket side (pin side is on the board). They are pretty tough to get out of the housing without the proper tool.

2D202C77-E506-4ED6-A404-12FFE8FE2ABA (resized).jpeg
#1078 44 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

They are 0.93 molex connectors. You need the socket side (pin side is on the board). They are pretty tough to get out of the housing without the proper tool. [quoted image]

Thanks Schwaggs.

Ordering some now.

#1079 42 days ago

Peter,

The bridge board arrived and i started cutting away the components as per your instructions.

I think i know where all the wires go...except for one or maybe two (the ground wires on the new 5 pin J4 connector.) I don't see where they come from? Am i reusing the lose wire that went from the old rectifier to the big cap? There's a lose violet and one black.

Im pretty sure the 2 grounds for the 4 pin J3 connector come from the old J2 power supply connector.

But i don't see any other black wires? Where do they come from / lead to? I see you wrote you added an extra ground and it goes back to the back box...im assuming that is one of the 5 pin J4 ground wires i see in the picture...but where does the other one go or come from?

heres a pic. The 2 black wires you can see are from the old J2 connector from the power supply...

ground (resized).jpg
#1080 41 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Peter,
The bridge board arrived and i started cutting away the components as per your instructions.
I think i know where all the wires go...except for one or maybe two (the ground wires on the new 5 pin J4 connector.) I don't see where they come from? Am i reusing the lose wire that went from the old rectifier to the big cap?

Not all the ground connections on the Bridge Board are used.
I made some extra ground connections to make the connectors different (2-3-4 and 5 pins).

Quoted from zug1619:

There's a lose violet and one black.

The lose violet and black wires are the wires that were beteen the large cap and the bridge rectifiers.
Those are left over and not needed.

Quoted from zug1619:

Im pretty sure the 2 grounds for the 4 pin J3 connector come from the old J2 power supply connector.
But i don't see any other black wires? Where do they come from / lead to?

Correct. Like I said, not all ground connections are used.

Quoted from zug1619:

I see you wrote you added an extra ground and it goes back to the back box...im assuming that is one of the 5 pin J4 ground wires i see in the picture...but where does the other one go or come from?
heres a pic. The 2 black wires you can see are from the old J2 connector from the power supply...[quoted image]

I added the extra ground connection to any of the GND connections on the Bridge Board.
It does not matter which one as they are all connected.
The other end of the ground wire I connected to the metal back plate.
If for some reason the old J2 connector falls off, you lose the ground connection for the lamps and solenoids.
That is why you should add it to the metal back plate.

20160430_175322 (resized).jpg
#1081 41 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Not all the ground connections on the Bridge Board are used.
I made some extra ground connections to make the connectors different (2-3-4 and 5 pins).

The lose violet and black wires are the wires that were beteen the large cap and the bridge rectifiers.
Those are left over and not needed.

Correct. Like I said, not all ground connections are used.

I added the extra ground connection to any of the GND connections on the Bridge Board.
It does not matter which one as they are all connected.
The other end of the ground wire I connected to the metal back plate.
If for some reason the old J2 connector falls off, you lose the ground connection for the lamps and solenoids.
That is why you should add it to the metal back plate.[quoted image]

Peter,

thanks so much for taking the time to be as clear as you have. I really appreciate it. Before i read your response, I went back and reread the Blackout link you posted. And in his pic, there were only 2 ground wires, both coming from the J2. One went to one of the 4 pin GNDs and one to one of the 5 pin's. I am obviously a newbie but feel like I'm learning a ton with everyone's help. I will use the loose black wire and add a ground.

Will post pics when done.

#1082 41 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

They are 0.93 molex connectors. You need the socket side (pin side is on the board). They are pretty tough to get out of the housing without the proper tool. [quoted image]

Schwaggs, the molex remover tool came and it made the job super easy...I did stab my-self in the finger but got the connector out without damaging the housing!

Re-crimping the CT and adding back to the housing was super easy too.

Many thanks!

#1083 41 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Peter,
thanks so much for taking the time to be as clear as you have. I really appreciate it. Before i read your response, I went back and reread the Blackout link you posted. And in his pic, there were only 2 ground wires, both coming from the J2. One went to one of the 4 pin GNDs and one to one of the 5 pin's. I am obviously a newbie but feel like I'm learning a ton with everyone's help. I will use the loose black wire and add a ground.
Will post pics when done.

Which game?

Quoted from zug1619:

Schwaggs, the molex remover tool came and it made the job super easy...I did stab my-self in the finger but got the connector out without damaging the housing!
Re-crimping the CT and adding back to the housing was super easy too.
Many thanks!

Ya those tools are great!

#1084 41 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Which game?

Ya those tools are great!

Time Warp

#1085 40 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Schwaggs, the molex remover tool came and it made the job super easy...I did stab my-self in the finger but got the connector out without damaging the housing!
Re-crimping the CT and adding back to the housing was super easy too.
Many thanks!

Awesome! A textbook example of the right tool making the job easy!

#1086 39 days ago

ok. I've put this in a f14, blackknight, baywatch and flash. Trying to think if one of those is similar. I usually had to ask questions on install on the forum or to inko and got so much helpful info to install them! I may of had some posts as well of these or pictures if one of those games is similar.

#1087 38 days ago

Ok. Got it all installed. I really wanna turn it on to see the green lights, but I'm gonna wait until I rebuild the power supply first as per this guide.

Here's a bunch of pics if anyone was interested.

First 2 pics are of me splicing the blue wires from the transformer. I also wrapped the red wires as there were 2 spots that looked like maybe a soldering iron melted the insulation.

I also moved the GI fuses to the left little to fit the board where Inko shows on his firepower instructions.

splice 2 (resized).jpgsplice 3 (resized).jpginko 1 (resized).jpginko 2 (resized).jpgput back (resized).jpgcage (resized).jpg
#1088 38 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Ok. Got it all installed. I really wanna turn it on to see the green lights, but I'm gonna wait until I rebuild the power supply first as per this guide.
Here's a bunch of pics if anyone was interested.
First 2 pics are of me splicing the blue wires from the transformer. I also wrapped the red wires as there were 2 spots that looked like maybe a soldering iron melted the insulation.
I also moved the GI fuses to the left little to fit the board where Inko shows on his firepower instructions.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you want to see the green leds, you can fire it up.
Just leave J1 on the power supply disconnected.
The leds should light.
The wires look good.

It is also a good practice when rebuilding the power supply to leave everything disconnected but J1 and J2.
Check the voltages on the power supply board to be sure they are oke.
Then you can switch off the game and reconnect all the connectors.

Peter

#1089 38 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

If you want to see the green leds, you can fire it up.
Just leave J1 on the power supply disconnected.
The leds should light.
The wires look good.
It is also a good practice when rebuilding the power supply to leave everything disconnected but J1 and J2.
Check the voltages on the power supply board to be sure they are oke.
Then you can switch off the game and reconnect all the connectors.
Peter

Ok, I was wondering about that.

To be clear...All i need to disconnect at this time is the J1?

What if i disconnect all the connectors on the power supply but the J2? Will the green still light? Just curious.

I"ll try later tonight after work

Thanks again Peter!!

- Dan the Painter

#1090 37 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Ok, I was wondering about that.
To be clear...All i need to disconnect at this time is the J1?
What if i disconnect all the connectors on the power supply but the J2? Will the green still light? Just curious.
I"ll try later tonight after work
Thanks again Peter!!
- Dan the Painter

Yes, just disconnect J1 to the power supply.
That is the main connector to power the whole machine (5V, 12V, displays, coils, lamps).
Without J1 only the GI works, no power to any of the other boards.

J2 is to provide ground connection for the coils and lamp from the Bridge Board to the power supply.
As an extra precaution you added a third ground wire to the metal back plate, should it happen that J2 would fall off, you stil have ground connection via the board screws.
With all connectors removed, the green lights on the Bridge Board would still light.

#1091 37 days ago

Green Lights!!!

green led (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1092 31 days ago

I'd just like to add this is a fantastic repair guide.

I am about to begin bullet proofing my 1982 Williams Hyperball. Some of the wiring has been hacked about in the backbox but it mostly works.

photos will follow when the components i have ordered arrive.

#1093 30 days ago

if i were to replace all the connectors and pins on the I/O board, where sells these? Not the interconnect - i already have that
UK based would be preferred but happy to buy overseas if that's all that about

#1094 27 days ago

On removing the mpu and io boards I discovered this nightmare.
Working through removing the cables and replacing the connectors

EB6D6648-4D78-451B-BACA-51E3B1AF41D9 (resized).jpeg
#1095 26 days ago

Connector replaced on the mpu board.

3A4FC091-431F-43F6-A84A-4CFAE8734C64 (resized).jpeg
#1096 24 days ago

Finally Got my Power Supply Board rebuilt (I'm slow) . Still haven't turned the game on as I still got to rebuild the MPU...But here's what the DMM was showing when I tested it. Wanted to see what you guys thought.

12 Volt section...According to Clay's guides...should read between 10 and 14...Mine was 13.87...Looks real good!
5 Volt section...According to Clay's guides...should read between 4.9 and 5.2...Mine was 5.032...Looks real good!
High Voltage sections...According to Clay's guides J5 Pin 3...should read between -90 and -105...Mine was -92.6...Looks real good!
and J5 Pin 4...should read between +90 and +105...Mine was 93.1...Looks real good!
Lamp Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J4 Pin 5-8...should read between 16-20...Mine was 20.87...A little High
Solenoid Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J3 Pin 6-9...should read between 28-38...Mine was 40.79...A little High

Looks like most are real good! I have a small concern with the Lamp and Solenoid voltages as they are a little high. What do you think? Am I done or should i be making sure that all the Voltages are firmly inside those ranges? What do I even need to do to get them lower?

Here's a pic showing the rebuild board. I did all the steps on this forum.

Next is the 40 Pin connector and replacing the ROM chip sockets.

supply (resized).jpg
#1097 24 days ago
Quoted from zug1619:

Lamp Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J4 Pin 5-8...should read between 16-20...Mine was 20.87...A little High
Solenoid Voltage...According to Clay's guides...J3 Pin 6-9...should read between 28-38...Mine was 40.79...A little High

Looks like most are real good! I have a small concern with the Lamp and Solenoid voltages as they are a little high. What do you think? Am I done or should i be making sure that all the Voltages are firmly inside those ranges? What do I even need to do to get them lower?

Don't worry about either at all, neither little high is significant. Remember they're unloaded voltages and transformers are notoriously imprecise components.

#1098 23 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Don't worry about either at all, neither little high is significant. Remember they're unloaded voltages and transformers are notoriously imprecise components.

Thats what i wanted to hear!

Onto the 40 Pin and SCANBE sockets!

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Flipper parts
1,000
Machine - For Sale
Nashville, TN
1,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Vineland, NJ
$ 100.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
Decorations
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
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