Hi.

Use this:

https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5-nonoise/

I just put one on my TZ and it's been fantastic so far.

"Have a EZ board on order."

Yup.

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/lm323k/

$7.95 plus shipping.

Two premium adjustable EZ regulators are $9.95 each with $2.95 flat rate shipping.

I'll note site in case I need a LM323K in future.

Might be fake, see here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-solenoid-driver-voltage-regulator-board-woes#post-4929361
and here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-lisy-a-replacement-mpu-for-gottlieb-bally-amp-stern/page/15#post-6623089

Not from the site I posted. He works hard at providing genuine parts.

I don't use LM323 anymore but haven't yet come across any fake ST branded parts. All the counterfeit LM323's I've seen have been remarked as National Semiconductor (NS) brand parts.

I think over on Great Plains Ed indicates when the last batch went out and they were all ST

I could use a little help with a switch issue. My 7/8 rollerover at the top of Laser Ball isn't working and looking at the matrix, some other switches in the row are working, and others are not. This is all on the white/blue wire, which is switch 14 (middle left side standup) which is not working, 22 (E drop target) not working, 30 (7/8 rollover) not working, 38 (BALL drop target series complete) undecided but I think it's not working, 46 (right jet bumper) WORKING, and 54 (5 star rollover) not working.

I have inspected each switch and none of the wires have broken free. If the picture of the matrix is correct and the "5" rollover is the last one in the line, that would make sense because it has a single wire, and seems to be the end of the daisy chain. Maybe that's the case, maybe not. Either way, with a switch in the middle of the chain working I don't know it's a wiring issue.

Sort of out of guesses, so any thoughts would be welcome.

laserballswitcherror (resized).JPG

I ordered two for stock, will let you know.

Got it sorted out. The wire had pulled out of the IDC connector to the point it was very loosely held. Not sure how the pop register in switch test and nothing else did unless the pop firing moved the wire in the housing enough that switch test recorded the EOS switch used to give points. Just finished redoing a new connector and everything is working great.

And they look like the real deal to me.

Blackout is back up and running with one of the EZ boards, I set the LM3232K aside for use on Bally S&T

2329f73a68eea1fa097bd3d6547dc4da07c25800 (resized).jpg

I'm thinking of rebuilding a System 11 power supply from my Whirlwind. It still works fine, but I'd rather replace all of the old components in it. Is there a recommended kit to purchase for rebuilding and bullet proofing it?

.

I got mine from Big Daddy on eBay!

///Me

Has anyone noticed this burning on the left side of the driver board? It's definitely a TIP 120 and I haven't looked up where it is in schematics yet but it's definitely been putting out heat. It's the only other spot I've noticed damage but not mentioned in this thread.

Anyone do the NVRAM replacement for the batteries like this one? My battery sockets are corroded and it has to go.
https://pinballelectronics.com/index.php/product/5101-nvram-battery-eliminator-module-for-williams-pinball-machines/

I wasn't sure how much work would go with the NVRAM replacement so I ordered Frank's famous battery board from TNT for a quick simple solution.
https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

I also recommend making a work log of improvements/changes made and the date. You can staple a plastic folder sleeve inside the main cabinet blank space and keep your papers and manuals there easily. You can even get water/fireproof folders to guarantee your original papers stay in good condition. I sometimes lose track of what work I've done myself and the next owner would never know if you replaced resistors or mosfets.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this. I recently found a Blackout machine, my first pinball purchase, and it was in really good condition but I was definitely scared things were going to go bad due to the telltale signs of discoloration and bulging capacitors. I've done a lot of the fixes and even though I would say my soldering skills are maybe moderately okay it was easy enough to do. Everything looks cleaner and it's nice knowing this thing won't char itself further or go up in smoke.

burn marks (resized).jpg

Looks like the previous transistor burned up, and was replaced with a new piece. Notice that particular transmission has different markings than the rest.

There are multiple offerings for the NVRAM mods at this point; haven't used the one you linked, but am totally happy with these -> https://nvram.weebly.com/nvram.html - showing out of stock at the moment due to supply of the actual NVRAM, though.

I've got the 5101 style on two system 7's (Solar Fire and Firepower that I did the 7 digit mod to), and of course the 6116 version on my system 11 (Pinbot) - if you can desolder/solder well enough to replace a chip, you can install the socket for the NVRAM. Easy job.

Richard

I put in Frank's battery board in for now and it works perfect. It's just a lithium CMOS battery so it should last a good while. Just a quick drop in replacement for the battery housing.

I saw a number of NVRAM options out there but not much info on reliability and very few actually listed the installation instructions online so I could see what kind of changes I'd have to make for compatibility. The one I linked actually listed the games compatible and a bit about how it functions, which sounds less sketchy. I might do it at some point if I keep this machine around for a long time.

No need to overthink something this simple. You desolder the CMOS RAM (or simply pull it if it's already socketed) and solder in a socket, install the NVRAM board, and go.

Compatibility isn't determined literally by game title, it's determined by what type of CMOS RAM was used on the particular type of MPU. The most basic understanding of what's in your backbox is all you really need to know to select the correct product.

Richard

This thread is great! I just picked up a not working Gorgar that I am going through. It looks like someone already fused the bridge rectifiers but they fused the leg marked ‘+’ ( I believe this would be the DC output? two blue wires going to a blue and orange wire on the left one and one purple wire to purple wire on the right one) instead of one of the AC input legs. Will this serve the same purpose? I’m guessing not since the diode in the rectifier could short and burn up? But it seems strange somone would go through the trouble to add the fuses and do it on the wrong leads? They also used 5a fuses?

Oops

I went ahead and moved the fuses to the AC input side of the rectifiers instead of the DC output side. I don’t have any 8A fuses on hand so I might just try the 5A and see if is enough for Gorgar.

It also looks like the J2 header on my power board is missing and the - DC wire from my lamp rectifier and one of the black wires from the large cap have been (poorly) soldered directly to the board bridging 4 of the J2 pins is that how it’s supposed to be connected? They put spade connectors on the two black wires so it can be disconnected at least…
BD063653-82E6-4E06-8F40-16060A00B0F3 (resized).jpeg

Install a Solenoid Saver in it!
See post 1489 here!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gorgar-back-from-the-dead-and-terrifying/page/30

Also, the NMP drop target retrofit kit!!

vid1900
Hi vid finaly got my parts i pm you about and put it on the board, but the high amp fuse blow. Have i missed something? Sure i i got the polarties right.

Is 1/4 amp the same as 0,25 amp fuses?

FFABA258-8839-4204-9385-971C233466EF (resized).jpeg

Fuse F1, worked before but with flickering displays. Maybe bad luck only with old fuse?
Is it 0,25 A = 1/4 A

8D5F328D-037B-420C-AA4A-8909C1111780 (resized).jpeg

BA97701D-F40E-4592-BB58-0B3097F62CCA (resized).jpeg

vid1900
Ok found the problem and fix it, it was the 39R 2w flame proof resistors i put in,
Put the old back and the fuse dont blow.

But my displays are dead, what have i messed up? Thankful for some guide and help.

image (resized).jpg

Those are supposed to be 39,000 (39K) resistors, not 39 ohm that it looks like you installed.

Carefully measure the display voltages that the board is putting out. It should be close to -100 and +100.

You may have overloaded the zener diodes in the display power supply but I would think the fuse would have blown before much damage was done (assuming a 0.25a fuse was installed).

Q2 might be toast but measuring the output voltage should tell us more

vid1900 Imeesured from a leg on the caps, and + mark on the board and got about 126-127v

Messured between ground and f1 fuse now and got 93-94 v

Q2 seems ok

The fuse clip and cap voltages are before the regulator circuit and not what we need.

Measure from the voltages on J5 at the top left of the board. Pin numbers are counted from left to right when installed in the game. Be VERY careful not to touch multiple pins together when measuring or you will damage other parts of the board or at the very least blow some fuses. You are dealing with voltages that can kill you so be careful.

Between Pin 3 and ground should be -100V DC
Between pin 4 and ground should be +100V DC

Ok i got no reading at all between does pins

OK, make sure the fuse is still good. If it is, we need to dig into the regular circuit some more. Please create a new thread and link it here so we can talk there and not derail the Bullet Proofing Thread any more.

ok. fuses are still good,

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powersupply-problems-williams-system-3#post-7128108

Hi there, I have a Williams time warp head with all the wire harnesses for the backbox. How hard would it be to upgrade the wire harness to a system 7 to make, oh idk a warlok or something. Any documentation on what the difference/conversion is? Thanks

Blackout has done blacked out again. Both board leds on, froze up during attract mode. Sound board works fine, interconnect done last year.

Free test ROMs here:

https://pincoder.ca

Download the software and read through the documentation. The first bunch of tests will help you identify the problem.. The rest of them will help you find any issues with the rest of the game.

At the moment, the site is inaccessible because my ISP is doing a scheduled maintenance and I have no service to the internet, but they say it'll be up by the end of the day today.

Are the rom sockets on the MPU original? Sometimes flaky sockets can lead to lock-ups like you're experiencing.

They are but chips are have been cleaned and everything seems to have good contact. Manipulating the chips changes nothing and before that pressing on chips had no effect on operating, it never crashed.

I have no boot at all now even after letting it sit for several hours. I'm not ruling them out, but I don't wish to shotgun a handful of parts at it either.

It's been slowly getting erratic over the past year. Usually fine on first play and then would lock up in attract. The connectors for power and blanking have been replaced with Trifurcon and molex and the power supply was rebuilt. Each time after work was done it would be ok and then a few weeks later start acting up again.

System 7 uses ribbon cables between the display boards and the driver board so that’s easy to make work. The display driver board mounts on the back of the backboard and you mount another regular display for the ball in play and credit display. Should be pretty easy to make work.

Decided to take a sanity break and rest tonight so poking at Blackout. Replaced cap on MPU and have a clean 5.15 volts there. Pin 40 on the CPU goes from low quickly to high on power up. Several legs of the CPU show activity.

Blanking signal however is low, this is tested at pin 37.

Of note, there are two AMI 6821 on the driver board.

Running Pincoder test rom, fails on led test!

Pin 5 on CPU is alternating, going to next step.

IC8 shows activity on the 3 pins

IC18 shows pin 6 and 7 are locked high. IC18 is also an AMI.

IC18 pin 39 is high

IC7 pin 10 is low

I popped in the solinoids file and have no flippers.

LAUNCH MISSION!

Replacing AMI 6802 on the MPU resolved the problem.

I'll be replacing the rom sockets on the board in the future though, they look very sketchy.

Thanks for the help Pincoder guy! I do any more Williams work I might pickup one of your adapter devices for testing.

20221017_183643 (resized).jpg20221017_184326 (resized).jpg

Yesterday I was swapping leds for incandescents in my Firepower, turning the machine off, swapping, then turning back on to test. I swapped the final 3 in the backbox, dropped the balls back in, put the lock bar and glass back, and turned the machine back on to clear the balls. It flashed on for a split second and then lost all power and will not power up at all now. The outlet is fine and no blown fuses. The on/off switch looks fine to me but is original. It has all new Kohout boards, they are not showing any power. There are no burn marks on the transformer. Any ideas where I should go next?

Just a couple of quick questions:

Did you check the fuse between the electrical plug and the utility outlet in the cab? (usually towards the rear on the left side under the playfield)
Next - Do you have power at the utility outlet itself? Doesn't matter if the game itself is on or off, you should have power here.

Cab.wire.diag (resized).png

Thanks for your response cpu. Fortunately I was able to track down a bad connector thanks to some awesome pinsiders over on the Firepower owners club thread.