(Topic ID: 35328)

Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7

By vid1900

8 years ago


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  • 972 posts
  • 186 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by frenchmarky
  • Topic is favorited by 580 Pinsiders

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There are 972 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 20.
#951 7 months ago

Is it still frozen, or was it a one time occurrence?

#952 7 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Is it still frozen, or was it a one time occurrence?

If I power cycle it and start a new game, I can double flip before plunging the ball and it will lock up and kill the displays.

#953 7 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I was playing Laser Ball today and I double flipped and the game froze. Reading Pinwiki I see two different pieces of advice, but I'm not quite sure what it is referring to when it says "rebuild the solenoid power circuit" in 6.13.7. That is the lower info with the blue tick mark.
The upper info is from 6.7, and I can do that too, but need to know what to check/replace for the solenoid power circuit.[quoted image]

don't mean to hijack your thread vid1900.

the solenoid power circuit is 25.5VAC from the transformer going to BR2 mounted on the ground plane and it being converted to the 28VDC for the solenoids, not much to it.
i believe in that text marked with blue they are referring to the logic circuit, which is covered in this thread post #80

#954 7 months ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

don't mean to hijack your thread vid1900.
the solenoid power circuit is 25.5VAC from the transformer going to BR2 mounted on the ground plane and it being converted to the 28VDC for the solenoids, not much to it.
i believe in that text marked with blue they are referring to the logic circuit, which is covered in this thread post #80

Thanks, I will follow that and get the parts suggested.

#955 7 months ago

Another vid1900 appreciation post.

Picked up a Gorgar that would turn on, but nothing would work. Rebuilt according to this guide, and BAM, now all I gotta do is adjust some switches.

Thank you!

1 week later
#956 7 months ago

So I rebuilt the power supply board caps and played a few games fine. Today I turned it on, added some credits and walked away for a while. Came back to this. It froze with zero gameplay. Is that a clue to anything?

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#957 7 months ago

Bad connectors, bad RAM, bad sockets....could be 100000000 things

If it ever happens again, test if you still have 5v at the mpu

#958 7 months ago

Is there a section of the forum that shows how to test 5 volts at the mpu, system 6?

#959 7 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Is there a section of the forum that shows how to test 5 volts at the mpu, system 6?

You can use the test points on the board, or the connector that leads from 3J6 on the Power Supply

#960 7 months ago

Nice to have you back Vid

#961 7 months ago

Here are the voltage based test points on the CPU board. Meter on DC. Black lead on ground. Red on the 5V or 12V test point.

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#962 7 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Here are the voltage based test points on the CPU board. Meter on DC. Black lead on ground. Red on the 5V or 12V test point.[quoted image]

Thanks Schwaggs, that helps. I was scared to ask.

#963 7 months ago

I do not know if this has already been discussed, but I would like to do it.
Sometimes transistors (Tips122, 2n2222a) circuits and other components, as already discussed, wear out over time, note that if you put a new Tip122 and a new 2n2222a, it will make the coils or things that are activated with them, take more force.
Besides in my opinion it looks more beautiful like this with new components (I have only changed the ones that my machine uses, I see it unnecessary to change the ones that it does not use)

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#964 7 months ago

What, what, sorry I couldn't resist it. Some times one will introduce more problems than if they had left working components alone. Ymmv but mass replacement can end in disaster.

3 weeks later
#965 6 months ago

Wish this would be updated to include the master display board on system 7. What is weird is I have segments out on some of the numbers, not all of them. In other words, 5 is missing the middle segment but 6 isn't. Would be great if a tutorial on hunting down these issues would be on here. Pinwiki doesn't really discuss this to any extent.

#966 6 months ago
Quoted from ibis:

Wish this would be updated to include the master display board on system 7. What is weird is I have segments out on some of the numbers, not all of them. In other words, 5 is missing the middle segment but 6 isn't. Would be great if a tutorial on hunting down these issues would be on here. Pinwiki doesn't really discuss this to any extent.

I don't have any of sys7 games over here, so it'll have to be another day's job.

If anyone else wants to add that section to this guide, with good photos, I'd much appreciate it.

#967 6 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I don't have any of sys7 games over here, so it'll have to be another day's job.
If anyone else wants to add that section to this guide, with good photos, I'd much appreciate it.

This would be a killer addition to this thread. Looking forward to it if someone can oblige.

#968 6 months ago
Quoted from ibis:

Wish this would be updated to include the master display board on system 7. What is weird is I have segments out on some of the numbers, not all of them. In other words, 5 is missing the middle segment but 6 isn't. Would be great if a tutorial on hunting down these issues would be on here. Pinwiki doesn't really discuss this to any extent.

That is extremely odd, and is certainly a function of the display board itself. Definitely something to do with the BCD conversion. Can you post a video with the issue running the built-in displays test?

Also, if you have a chip programmer and a spare 2532 chip (or a Pincoder Adapter: https://pincoder.ca) can you run the Pincoder 05-displays test and post a video of that as well? That test splits things up a little more, digit wise, and may show other interesting results.. Thanks!

#969 6 months ago
Quoted from pincoder:

That is extremely odd, and is certainly a function of the display board itself. Definitely something to do with the BCD conversion. Can you post a video with the issue running the built-in displays test?
Also, if you have a chip programmer and a spare 2532 chip (or a Pincoder Adapter: https://pincoder.ca) can you run the Pincoder 05-displays test and post a video of that as well? That test splits things up a little more, digit wise, and may show other interesting results.. Thanks!

I can drop pictures here but can not drop video.

1 month later
#970 5 months ago

Took apart a system 7 the other day, examined a lot of the connectors and found two with damaged wires. The 3 wire connector seems easy enough (repin the connector although idk what pins to use) but the IDC is a little out of my comfort zone. These wires loop back around to the harness (GI maybe?), and one side of one of the wires is damaged. How can I fix this? Should I take out the wire and splice in a new one?

I'm new to pinball, should I be replacing every single connector in the back box? Or can I leave them alone?

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#971 5 months ago

If "I" was doing that repair, I'd strip the little section of the wire, then fold it upon itself, then crimp it with a conventional crimp connector .

I know that is not a **kosher** fix, but anything is better than IDC, lol

4 months later
#972 6 days ago

The old 'switch matrix zero ohm resistor' thing...

If I read things right, Williams first changed the column resistors from 1K to 330 ohm during Sys 4; rows were 1K. Then when Sys 7 started (Black Knight) they changed both the columns AND rows to zero ohm resistors, W1-W16. Then they quickly (apparently) decided to put the 1K row resistors back in where W1-8 were and W9-W16 remained zero ohms, R204-R211.

Seems like most BKs have a back box label mentioning how R196-R211 must be zero ohm. My BKs label does but my game's original board only has zero ohm columns. But I did find a pic of one BK label that specified only R204-R211. Every Sys 7 game instruction manual and press flyer I dug up that mentions the driver board changes only note the columns being zero ohm. Talk about confusing.

Vid recommends zero ohm on both columns and rows, and some original boards are that way. But if the above is indeed what Wms did, what is the reason for doing zero ohms on the rows if Wms made this change but then undid it? Maybe some issue was occurring because of zero ohms on both columns and rows vs. just the columns (?)

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There are 972 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 20.

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