(Topic ID: 35328)

Vid's Guide to Bulletproofing Williams System 3-7


By vid1900

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 913 posts
  • 170 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Armyaviation
  • Topic is favorited by 525 Pinsiders

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There are 913 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 19.
#901 17 days ago
Quoted from shaub:

I'm working on a System 6 machine and I added the fuses to the Bridge Rectifiers. I have the solenoid bridge rectifier 8A fuse blowing after I play for a bit. What should I be checking?

Which game?
Does it have magnets?

#902 16 days ago
Quoted from shaub:

I'm working on a System 6 machine and I added the fuses to the Bridge Rectifiers. I have the solenoid bridge rectifier 8A fuse blowing after I play for a bit. What should I be checking?

So I removed the wires and tested the BR, it tested as good. In attract mode, I measured the AC voltage at the BR at 29V and the DC voltage at 35V. My understanding is that it should be 25.5VAC and about 28VDC.

#903 16 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Which game?
Does it have magnets?

It's Scorpion

#904 16 days ago
Quoted from shaub:

So I removed the wires and tested the BR, it tested as good. In attract mode, I measured the AC voltage at the BR at 29V and the DC voltage at 35V. My understanding is that it should be 25.5VAC and about 28VDC.

That's fine, transformers are a relatively imprecise item so it's normal for them to not be spot on.

#905 16 days ago
Quoted from shaub:

It's Scorpion

The instruction booklet calls for a 15A SB fuse for F4 on the power supply.
That would mean the before the bridge rectifier will also have to be 15A SB.
I think it's rather high, but logical.
An 8A fuse would get hot during game play and will eventualy blow at one point.
Nothing wroung, just too low for 4 flippers.

#906 13 days ago

Sorry to butt back in but on my stellar wars with the missing transformer. I got new transformer in, new bridge rectifiers, voltages all test good at power supply output. I have 4.9 volts coming out and if I plug the mpu and/or driver board in that drops down to about .5 volts

1 week later
#907 5 days ago

Ok I found my first issue and fixed it, weak solder joint on the 12v on power supply. I fixed that and now TP1 on mpu has 12v and 9 has 5v as required. The top led cane on on the mpu.

I took the driver board off and soldered on a new 40 pin plug and touched up solder on male side. Reconnected and now both leds come on with nothing on score displays. I don’t have any batteries in yet

#908 5 days ago
Quoted from Armyaviation:

Ok I found my first issue and fixed it, weak solder joint on the 12v on power supply. I fixed that and now TP1 on mpu has 12v and 9 has 5v as required. The top led cane on on the mpu.
I took the driver board off and soldered on a new 40 pin plug and touched up solder on male side. Reconnected and now both leds come on with nothing on score displays. I don’t have any batteries in yet

Did you replace both sides of the 40 pin? Leaving the old, round pins on the male side isn't good.

You need to reflow solder or replace each and every header pin on every board.

When you have the game on and there is nothing on the score displays, look at different angles into the displays to see if there is any orange glow at all. If not, CAREFULLY measure the high voltage supplies to the displays.

#909 4 days ago

So before I changed to 40 pin, I would only have the top led, if I cycled the power switch fast, the displays did come one for a bit then off, and the led changed to the bottom one. Now both leds come on. I did reflow solder on all of the male pins

#910 4 days ago
Quoted from Armyaviation:

So before I changed to 40 pin, I would only have the top led, if I cycled the power switch fast, the displays did come one for a bit then off, and the led changed to the bottom one. Now both leds come on. I did reflow solder on all of the male pins

Both LEDs on indicated a CMOS failure. But until you replace the male pins of the 40 pin, you are chasing a ghost.

#911 4 days ago

Reflowing Solder on them is not good enough

#912 3 days ago

Ok, when I first power on the game both leds flash then go off, no displays. If I cycle the power switch both leds come on and stay on. No displays.

I removed the driver board from the mpu but left the board plugged in just pulled away from mpu and the relay on the driver board clicked and all the solenoids on the playfield energized for a second then off

#913 3 days ago

This chip on the driver board also looks like it has been resoldered and not a very good job of it

1CF86E5A-CBE8-4140-836C-C4BA804C8C49 (resized).jpeg
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There are 913 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 19.

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