(Topic ID: 72184)

Vid's Guide: Shadow Sanctum Target Repair


By vid1900

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Agent_Hero
  • Topic is favorited by 51 Pinsiders

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super bands.jpg
BIND-POINT.jpg
BRACKET-BODY.jpg
dddd-787.gif
PROBLEM.jpg
TARGET-GUIDE.jpg
BRASS-WASHER.jpg
E-CLIP.jpg
UNHOOK-SPRING.jpg
SPRING.jpg
ASSEMBLY.jpg
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#1 5 years ago

A little dive bar/ pizza joint sits about a mile from my hotel. My keen eye sees The Shadow against the back wall with about a dozen cases of empty beer bottles stacked on top and below it. I look for the owner to see if he wants to sell it (it would look great in my hotel room, yes?).

Owner's Son: Yeah, it's been broke about 5 years.
Vid: Want to sell it?
O: HA! Everybody want's to buy it! It's worth a lot of money, everyone knows that.
V: Sure, if it works.
O: I had the guy who does our games (2 crane games, dart board, jukebox) try to fix it. He says it's too old. Another guy, a professional, worked on it and he said it needs some new computer boards and a brain.
V: A brain, eh?
O: New brain, yes.
V: Well, if you don't want to sell it, do you want to pay me to fix it?
O: What can you do if no one else can ?
V: It's what I do.
O: What if you can't?
V: Then you don't have to pay me a penny. What do you have to lose?

I tell him to find the keys, a grounded outlet, extension cord, I only take cash - so have some on hand and I'll be back in 2 days in the afternoon when the bar is not so crowded ....

#2 5 years ago

So when I get back to the bar they have the keys, and extension cord, but no one has cleared off the game.

The ground pin has been cut from the game, so I replace the cord.

None of the nearby outlets show a functioning ground with my little tester plug. I get a GFCI extension cord from my van.

Batteries are dated 2005, starting to leak - I remove them.

I do a quick fuse run through and power up the game.

Game actually comes up. Has a bunch of errors, says balls missing.

One ball is BEHIND the Sanctum target. The target is about 1/2 way down. All of the plastics are broken in this area, so I suspect a chunk is wedged in. No easy luck though, the target falls each time to varying heights, but never completely.

I stuff a rag in both ends of the ball trough to keep the balls from falling out and lift the playfield.

It looks confusing with a bunch of screws and bolts, but only four 1/4" hex screws hold the target assembly in.

1.jpg
#3 5 years ago

Looking forward to following your progress, great idea for a forum post!

#4 5 years ago

After removing the 4 hex screws, there is just the Switch Molex plug and the Solenoid Molex plug to disconnect; then the whole assembly comes out.

Much easier to service this assembly on the table, rather than in a nest of wires at the bottom of the cab.

My second educated guess to the problem was that the Reset Solenoid was bound up, keeping the plunger from falling all the way down. Oftentimes the sleeve will need to be replaced. This guess was also incorrect, the plunger was loose and moved freely.

ASSEMBLY.jpg

#5 5 years ago

Next on the likely list was the Retraction Spring.

This looked good. Evenly sprung, no kinks or gaps in the windings. Tension was good.

The Switch plate was loose, but that was not our problem, as even when I pushed it all the way back, the dropping motion was still hanging up.

Side Note: The Target Depth Adjustment Screw is at the end of the assembly. You adjust this to make sure the top of the drop target is flush with the playfield when the target is retracted.

SPRING.jpg
#6 5 years ago

The target itself looked uncracked, so finally there was noting left to do but take it completely off.

First you remove the spring so it does not flip up in your face.

UNHOOK-SPRING.jpg
#7 5 years ago

Next, using an Awl, remove the E-Clip from the Retention Stud.

E-CLIP.jpg
#8 5 years ago

Next remove the brass washer.

Washers like these are punched from a sheet of brass, leaving one side sharp. The sharp side faces up (faces the E-Clip) upon reassembly.

BRASS-WASHER.jpg
#9 5 years ago

Finally, remove the #2 screw on the Nylon Guide and the target comes free.

The face of the Drop Plunger pin was nice and smooth, so the problem had to be the Nylon Guide.

The Guide was not cracked, but the target was not smoothly running through it.

After checking more closely, I found the problem.

TARGET-GUIDE.jpg
#10 5 years ago

I'm on the edge of my seat! What was it!?

#11 5 years ago

these guides are always great

dddd-787.gif

#12 5 years ago

Wedged inside the Nylon Guide was a strand of steel wire.

Don't know where it came from, but it was the last thing I expected, lol.

PROBLEM.jpg
#13 5 years ago

Thanks for posting all your guides! I have a few in my fav's for future reference.

I'm currently in the middle of a tear down on my Shadow, so this is good info to me!

#14 5 years ago

Before reassembly, I gave a coat of Blitz wax to the Bracket, the target and of course the playfield.

The wax won't attract dirt or dust and makes the target slide like a dream.

I don't want any return services calls on this thing.

BRACKET-BODY.jpg

#15 5 years ago

Have you had any issues with the switch. "Catching the ball, but just drops it" Happens 5-10% of the time for me. Worked on that thing for weeks replaced just about everything and still problems.

#16 5 years ago

After reassembling the target, adjust the switch plate.

It was totally loose when I pulled it out from under the playfield, so somebody was messing with it at some point (probably the Crane Guy).

Using a #3 Philips screwdriver, tighten the plate down with the Rightmost screw in the picture maybe 1mm further away from the Target than the left.

This will keep the Target from binding on the edge of the switch leaf.

Test the drop action several times by pressing the Drop Plunger with your finger.

Take your time and get it right.

BIND-POINT.jpg

#17 5 years ago

LMAO...nice

#18 5 years ago

Awesome! Love your threads.

#19 5 years ago

I re-rubbered the game as all the rubbers had turned to chalk and crumbled. The Owner's Son said it was dead for 5 years, but I might guess 10.

I set the outlanes as closed as they would go and put some Super-bands on the flippers to give the players a fighting chance on the hardest game of the 1990s. The only pin in the joint and it's the one with 30 second average ball times, lol.

The Owner's Son was impressed with the game, so he even sprung for a flipper rebuild, new plastics and some LEDs. I will install them in the next week or so.

super bands.jpg

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Have you had any issues with the switch. "Catching the ball, but just drops it" Happens 5-10% of the time for me. Worked on that thing for weeks replaced just about everything and still problems.

The sanctum opto switch?

Did someone mess with the magnet coil under the playfield? It might be backed out a little too far so it can't "release then throw" the ball.

#21 5 years ago

I had the problem of the wall target not going down at all, even in test mode. I pulled the whole assembly and found the small coil for the drop plunger had overheated and locked on. I also found the corresponding transistor fried. Hopefully there's not any other problems along the path for this.

I just pulled the lamp board and found why the lights are so dim, if they're working at all. This is a HUO for 11 yrs. pin, I've had fresh off-route pins that were cleaner than this one!

IMG_0717.JPG IMG_0718.JPG
#22 5 years ago
Quoted from RonB:

I had the problem of the wall target not going down at all, even in test mode. I pulled the whole assembly and found the small coil for the drop plunger had overheated and locked on. I also found the corresponding transistor fried. Hopefully there's not any other problems along the path for this.

There is probably also a pre-driver transistor, so I would replace that along with the TIP102 - it was likely stressed too and could be locked on, or ready to fail.

As soon as you power on, see if the drop solenoid locks on - be ready to instantly kill power.

Quoted from RonB:

I just pulled the lamp board and found why the lights are so dim, if they're working at all. This is a HUO for 11 yrs. pin, I've had fresh off-route pins that were cleaner than this one!

That's nice, lol.

#23 5 years ago

What about the new brain?

#24 5 years ago

Awesome threads Vid.

The lost art of pin repair.

#25 5 years ago
Quoted from cichlid:

What about the new brain?

I believe that turned out to be vid.

#26 5 years ago

Great story :0)

#27 5 years ago

The real question is how long it took to get the empty beer bottles back on the pin after the owners son was able to get rid of Vid.

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from cichlid:

What about the new brain?

I look around inside and could not even find the old brain.

All the boards and CPU were fine.

There were some optos that needed reflowing, battlefield needed tweaking, bulbs out, but nothing out of the ordinary.

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

The real question is how long it took to get the empty beer bottles back on the pin after the owners son was able to get rid of Vid.

If he wanted to get rid of me, he should have stopped lubing me up with Whiskey Sours all afternoon.

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

V: Well, if you don't want to sell it, do you want to pay me to fix it?
O: What can you do if no one else can ?
V: It's what I do.

Badass. I love the idea of someone saying this to vid of all people. He had no idea he was dealing with a true master of the arts.

Great story. A+. Would read again.

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Jean-Luc-Picard said:
Have you had any issues with the switch. "Catching the ball, but just drops it" Happens 5-10% of the time for me. Worked on that thing for weeks replaced just about everything and still problems.

The sanctum opto switch?

Did someone mess with the magnet coil under the playfield? It might be backed out a little too far so it can't "release then throw" the ball.

When I got the machine the screws had loosened. Which made a vibrating noise so I just tightened the loosened screws. However the problem continued. In an attempt to fix the problem I replaced a new magnet "turns out nothing was wrong with the old magnet", new switch, new diode "The diode was dead". The odd thing is it works "most" of the time. But at random it will mess up. It catches the ball, but drops it.

I dont think its the opto, since it sees the ball, catches it with the magnet and drops the door. I really thought it was the switch, but I have tried 3 switches and even tried an unbent arm as well slightly bending it to make better contact between the arm and the wall.

You mention the magnet might be backed out too far. I assume this is adjusted by the nut and bolt attached to the assembly. I will check it out when I get home. From what I remember it seemed rather tight.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

The odd thing is it works "most" of the time. But at random it will mess up. It catches the ball, but drops it.

Look at the switch at the bottom of the wall target.

If the game does not think the wall target has fallen, it will not sling the ball upwards.

Could be switch, could be wiring, could be diode.

3 years later
#33 2 years ago

Excellent guide, thanks much Vid!

I realized quite a few people have also problems with the switch arm functioning, near the bracket. It can happen that the bracket slightly pushes the switch arm just enough to activate it, creating all sort of logic problems during gameplay. Therefore be careful using the correct switch arm and adjust it properly.

Here pictures on how it is supposed to work:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/69#post-3538379

2 years later
#34 3 months ago

Quite late to the party, but thanks for this guide. Sanctum works great and it was a breeze to remove and clean all of the parts.

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