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Quoted from EvanDickson:I'm embarking on my first pf swap. The reverse of the pf is dimpled for all the screws, 98% of which seemed to be #6-1/2". Should I pre-drill all the screw holes, or just put the screws right in?[quoted image]
The only thing I would be careful with is some hardware sold these days is not that great. If you do not pre-drill the holes sometimes they break and then you have to go through the whole process of removing the broken screw.
Quoted from EvanDickson:Good point. I'll run a few screws into an unused area and see if they feel weak or not.
If you are reusing OEM hardware you are probably ok, its the hardware that is supposedly new that I have had some issues with.
Quoted from EvanDickson:What's the best strategy for adding new t-nuts to a clear coated repro pf? Should I ream the clear away or no? Should I use glue or no? Should I hammer/punch them into place? [quoted image]
Best way is to set them with a large washer to spread out the surface area. Use a bolt from the other side with the large washer against the wood. Tighten the bolt to sink the fingers of the T-nut into the wood. Remove bolt and assemble.
You never want to hammer on a Playfield that has been clear coated.
Since the T-nut is recessed you should not have to worry about the clear pulling up but to be safe might be best to remove the clear under the T-nut.
Quoted from dq13:vid1900
Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!
Definitely Tall. You want to get all the rigid support from the temporary rails to keep the PF straight.
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Cave Creek, AZ