(Topic ID: 222566)

VIDs Guide: Re-Populating Playfields

By vid1900

3 years ago


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  • 163 posts
  • 51 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 70 days ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 333 Pinsiders

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    There are 163 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
    #151 7 months ago

    I collar and pre drill everything...might as well since you have to check every single dimple anyway. Don't trust those dimples!

    #152 7 months ago

    What's the best strategy for adding new t-nuts to a clear coated repro pf? Should I ream the clear away or no? Should I use glue or no? Should I hammer/punch them into place?

    IMG_20211018_193326601 (resized).jpg
    #153 7 months ago
    Quoted from EvanDickson:

    What's the best strategy for adding new t-nuts to a clear coated repro pf? Should I ream the clear away or no? Should I use glue or no? Should I hammer/punch them into place? [quoted image]

    Best way is to set them with a large washer to spread out the surface area. Use a bolt from the other side with the large washer against the wood. Tighten the bolt to sink the fingers of the T-nut into the wood. Remove bolt and assemble.

    You never want to hammer on a Playfield that has been clear coated.

    Since the T-nut is recessed you should not have to worry about the clear pulling up but to be safe might be best to remove the clear under the T-nut.

    #154 6 months ago

    I'd make sure the T-nut fits into the hole, without getting caught on the sides.

    Every brand of tnut has a different disc size, so you might have to dig around your pile.

    Then score the inside of the bottom of the hole, all the way around the edge with xacto knife.

    If you are clearing your own playfield, install the topside T-nuts before you clear. Then clean out the threads with a Tap when dry.

    #155 6 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I'd make sure the T-nut fits into the hole, without getting caught on the sides.
    Every brand of tnut has a different disc size, so you might have to dig around your pile.
    Then score the inside of the bottom of the hole, all the way around the edge with xacto knife.
    If you are clearing your own playfield, install the topside T-nuts before you clear. Then clean out the threads with a Tap when dry.

    Digging around my pile sounds like an unpleasant medical procedure.

    PF came cleared, but with no tnuts. I'll score with xacto. Then set with a washer and bolt per pin-pilot's instructions, no glue.

    Thanks guys!

    12
    #156 6 months ago

    I like to use a molly-bolt puller. It's an inexpensive tool and it makes quick work of tee nuts and Molly anchors.

    1 month later
    #157 5 months ago

    vid1900
    Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!

    #158 5 months ago
    Quoted from dq13:

    vid1900
    Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!

    Definitely Tall. You want to get all the rigid support from the temporary rails to keep the PF straight.

    #159 5 months ago
    Quoted from dq13:

    vid1900
    Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!

    Like this.

    Storing playfields 020 (resized).jpg
    2 months later
    #160 74 days ago

    Vid. Since we're talking about temp rails, I'm going to let my Wade Krause El Dorado playfield cure for 6 months before doing anything with it. Is laying it flat for 6 months ok or does it need side rails to prevent possible warping. Thanks.

    #161 74 days ago
    Quoted from T-Tommy:

    Vid. Since we're talking about temp rails, I'm going to let my Wade Krause El Dorado playfield cure for 6 months before doing anything with it. Is laying it flat for 6 months ok or does it need side rails to prevent possible warping. Thanks.

    I'd put some rails on the backside while it cures.

    It costs nothing, and it's much easier to prevent a warp now; than to try and correct it latter.

    #162 70 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I'd put some rails on the backside while it cures.
    It costs nothing, and it's much easier to prevent a warp now; than to try and correct it latter.

    I set the temp rails on to see how they fit and noticed a very slight warping starting already. As far as the old rails go, do they just need sanding and a clearcoat ( maybe Spray Max 2K or whatever else you might suggest ). Thanks for your insight.

    #163 70 days ago
    Quoted from T-Tommy:

    As far as the old rails go, do they just need sanding and a clearcoat ( maybe Spray Max 2K or whatever else you might suggest ). Thanks for your insight.

    Some rails are real wood, and you can paint or stain them.

    Some are wood, covered in fake woodgrain vinyl

    Some are MDF and covered in vinyl

    You can repaint vinyl with shoe spray that they match shoes for weddings - but make sure it's fully dry or it can stick to the playfield

    There are 163 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.

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