Ann Arbor, MI
I collar and pre drill everything...might as well since you have to check every single dimple anyway. Don't trust those dimples!
(Topic ID: 222566)
Charlottetown, PE
Quoted from EvanDickson:What's the best strategy for adding new t-nuts to a clear coated repro pf? Should I ream the clear away or no? Should I use glue or no? Should I hammer/punch them into place? [quoted image]
Best way is to set them with a large washer to spread out the surface area. Use a bolt from the other side with the large washer against the wood. Tighten the bolt to sink the fingers of the T-nut into the wood. Remove bolt and assemble.
You never want to hammer on a Playfield that has been clear coated.
Since the T-nut is recessed you should not have to worry about the clear pulling up but to be safe might be best to remove the clear under the T-nut.
Sana'a
I'd make sure the T-nut fits into the hole, without getting caught on the sides.
Every brand of tnut has a different disc size, so you might have to dig around your pile.
Then score the inside of the bottom of the hole, all the way around the edge with xacto knife.
If you are clearing your own playfield, install the topside T-nuts before you clear. Then clean out the threads with a Tap when dry.
Quoted from vid1900:I'd make sure the T-nut fits into the hole, without getting caught on the sides.
Every brand of tnut has a different disc size, so you might have to dig around your pile.
Then score the inside of the bottom of the hole, all the way around the edge with xacto knife.
If you are clearing your own playfield, install the topside T-nuts before you clear. Then clean out the threads with a Tap when dry.
Digging around my pile sounds like an unpleasant medical procedure. 
PF came cleared, but with no tnuts. I'll score with xacto. Then set with a washer and bolt per pin-pilot's instructions, no glue.
Thanks guys!
I like to use a molly-bolt puller. It's an inexpensive tool and it makes quick work of tee nuts and Molly anchors.
1 month later
vid1900
Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!
Quoted from dq13:vid1900
Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!
Definitely Tall. You want to get all the rigid support from the temporary rails to keep the PF straight.
Quoted from dq13:vid1900
Noob question: you recommended when storing a playfield to cut some rails to screw to the bottom of the playfield; 3/4" baltic birch cut 1.5" wide. Do I screw this in vertically (1.5" tall) or horizontally (3/4" tall). Thanks!
Like this.
Storing playfields 020 (resized).jpg 2 months later
Vid. Since we're talking about temp rails, I'm going to let my Wade Krause El Dorado playfield cure for 6 months before doing anything with it. Is laying it flat for 6 months ok or does it need side rails to prevent possible warping. Thanks.
Quoted from T-Tommy:Vid. Since we're talking about temp rails, I'm going to let my Wade Krause El Dorado playfield cure for 6 months before doing anything with it. Is laying it flat for 6 months ok or does it need side rails to prevent possible warping. Thanks.
I'd put some rails on the backside while it cures.
It costs nothing, and it's much easier to prevent a warp now; than to try and correct it latter.
Quoted from vid1900:I'd put some rails on the backside while it cures.
It costs nothing, and it's much easier to prevent a warp now; than to try and correct it latter.
I set the temp rails on to see how they fit and noticed a very slight warping starting already. As far as the old rails go, do they just need sanding and a clearcoat ( maybe Spray Max 2K or whatever else you might suggest ). Thanks for your insight.
Quoted from T-Tommy:As far as the old rails go, do they just need sanding and a clearcoat ( maybe Spray Max 2K or whatever else you might suggest ). Thanks for your insight.
Some rails are real wood, and you can paint or stain them.
Some are wood, covered in fake woodgrain vinyl
Some are MDF and covered in vinyl
You can repaint vinyl with shoe spray that they match shoes for weddings - but make sure it's fully dry or it can stick to the playfield
1 year later
Quoted from vid1900:Get all your new contacts from Great Plain Electronics:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=73
The 4 amp are better
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Get the larger .156 contacts too:
Trifurcon are better
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86
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You are going to re-use the plastic housings (many sizes are no longer available or the wrong color), just get the contacts
-
You are going to need a ratcheting crimper that does both crimps at the same time $19
amazon.com link »[quoted image]
Any idea on the sizes I would need for an Earthshaker? Also, what would be a ballpark quantity to procure?
Thank you
Quoted from vid1900:CLEANING THE WIRING HARNESS
=======================
Cleaning the wiring harness is a step you just can't skip.
Otherwise your new (restored) playfield will be covered in black coil dust.
No matter how many times you wash your hands, all your white rubber will be covered in black smudges. No one knows how it gets there.
Washing all the 40 year old oily plasticizers off the wires will help keep new dust from sticking to it too.
Washing all the 40 year old Coil Dust off the harness is the only known cure for "ghosting" where the flippers cause a spike making other coils fire through the MPU.
-
Use a fine point pencil and circle around all the mechs and GI wiring paths (those stapled bare wires) on the back of the old playfield.
These tracings will REALLY help you when it comes time to re-populate the new playfield.
Take a ton of pictures. 3x as many as you think you will ever need.
The whole wiring harness just goes in the dishwasher, GI paths and all.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-harnesses-vids-guide
Leave the coils on (throw away the Coil Sleeves), loop a loose zip tie through the switch stacks (you don't want them coming apart), leave the light sockets, everything.
Don't leave any enclosed switches on the harness. Even if they were waterproof 40 years ago, they won't be now. Xenon had 2 enclosed switches (ramp and ball trough), that had to be removed.
[quoted image]
^ note the red arrow pointing out the switch stacks with blue zip ties.
I noticed that you said to leave the coils on. Couldn't water get into the windings where you won't be able to easily dry it or at least damage the wrapper?
Quoted from WalrusNips:I noticed that you said to leave the coils on. Couldn't water get into the windings where you won't be able to easily dry it or at least damage the wrapper?
Remove the wrapper, wash the coil, blow any water out of the coil windings with an air compressor.
You can get the graphics for printing your own new coil wrappers from Inkochnito's site: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ (pay attention to the paragraph at the top, about getting the logo version)
Or some/many wrappers can be bought from Marco & PPS.
1 week later
For the 3/32, or 0.09", stainless steel rods for making wireform ball guides, what tool do you need for making the flanges, or barbs, on the feet? Is it recommended to add these to the feet when repopulating a playfield (in my specific case, an original playfield that hasn't been recleared)?
Pic (resized).jpgReply
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