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(Topic ID: 222566)

VIDs Guide: Re-Populating Playfields


By vid1900

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 104 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Kredmore
  • Topic is favorited by 223 Pinsiders

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    There are 104 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
    #51 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    So now you have your newly crimped wire.
    You can note that the Dual Crimp dies did both the conductor and insulation crimp at the same time. This saves your hand at the end of the day by cutting your crimping in half.
    You can also see that the Trifurcon connectors triple the contact area. This is good for a high vibration location like a pinball machine.
    You can see that the little bit of conductor sticking out past the crimp, matches the factory made one.
    You can also see our locking tab on the bottom - remember the tab goes in the little window when you slip it back in the plastic connector housing.
    [quoted image]
    It's going to take you a hour to redo all those contacts.
    Do it while seated, with a nice alcoholic beverage at your side, and some T Rex on your speakers.

    T. Rex Jeepster or the Motivator! Will be doing a Xenon playfield as soon as one is available, little nervous about the dishwasher cleaning. Working on updating my boards now, great thread!

    #52 1 year ago
    Quoted from Craigb:

    little nervous about the dishwasher cleaning.

    Pinheads have been doing it since the 90s, the world continues to spin.

    The wires don't corrode, the switches keep switching.

    Once you do it, you will NEVER go back to soaking the harness in the laundry tub, or washing it with chemicals in the driveway.

    #53 1 year ago

    Vid, do you add soap to the dishwasher or does just the hot water alone do the job?

    #54 1 year ago
    Quoted from Sinistarrett:

    Vid, do you add soap to the dishwasher or does just the hot water alone do the job?

    You need soap because you want to get rid of all the sticky plasterers that collect coil dust.

    Just regular dish-washing detergent.

    Read before you start:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-harnesses-vids-guide

    #55 1 year ago

    I have only changed a wire harness once but found that I did not need to label anything because the wires wanted to go back to the position it was in. Does washing it remove the memory it seems to have?

    #56 1 year ago
    Quoted from yellowghost:

    I have only changed a wire harness once but found that I did not need to label anything because the wires wanted to go back to the position it was in. Does washing it remove the memory it seems to have?

    Like you found, the copper in the wire tends to hold it's shape.

    #57 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Normally the rails are the first thing you do after waxing the playfield, BUT for this guide I'm going to go out of order for the sake of superior illustrative pictures.

    *If you know a local woodworker or cabinetmaker (clears throat), hit them up to run you some new rails. (There may even be people already offering them for sale?) The original stock in pinball machines were seriously crappy soft pine or poplar wrapped in contact paper with the image of hardwood grain printed on it. (How anybody figured out that this was cheaper than just using a decent hardwood in the first place is beyond me.) You can get many new rails out of a rough sawn board of the hardwood of your choice. I like ash for games with "wood color" contact paper (white oak would look good too); hard maple, soft maple (a misnomer), or red or white oak will all make for very nice rail stock if you are going to paint them black. A tooled up wood shop can run you a dozen strips in a half hour, sanded. Spray 'em black or don't, and topcoat with some rattle can lacquer and you're good to go. Using hardwood instead of those old cruddy rails will do a much better job of keeping the playfield flat than soft pine could ever manage.

    (I have a lot to say about the obsession with playfield flatness, but that would be a conversation for another time...)

    #58 1 year ago

    I'm doing a Monopoly restore/refresh and one the post holes (by the front ramp) is blown out in the back. Would it be helpful to add a Tee Nut on the bottom for some "tooth" or just add some washers and cinch it on down?

    post hole (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #59 1 year ago

    Great Plains has been "out of stock" for weeks on the connector housings - is there another good source for these??

    #60 1 year ago
    Quoted from Lamprey:

    I'm doing a Monopoly restore/refresh and one the post holes (by the front ramp) is blown out in the back. Would it be helpful to add a Tee Nut on the bottom for some "tooth" or just add some washers and cinch it on down?[quoted image]

    I'd glue a slice of dowel in there, then drill the hole again.

    #61 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

    Great Plains has been "out of stock" for weeks on the connector housings - is there another good source for these??

    Just reuse the old female housings, some sizes are no longer available.

    Write the date on them, so others know they have been rebuilt

    #62 1 year ago

    Great and very necessary thread! I always predrill every hole topside. I’ve seen what happens when you don’t, and it ain’t pretty.

    #63 1 year ago

    Vid,

    Would it be possible for you to show or explain how you put the playfield back inside the cabinet without scratching the sides? Is there a way to make this task a little easier? Thanks!

    #64 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Vid,
    Would it be possible for you to show or explain how you put the playfield back inside the cabinet without scratching the sides? Is there a way to make this task a little easier? Thanks!

    Two things I did to make it easier:
    1. Protect the inside of the cabinet with a layer of masking tape. I use blue painters tape, and it is pretty easy to tell where the playfield scrapes on it when you raise and lower the playfield.

    2. When you move the playfield to the cabinet, get some help. Last time I did it, it took three people: one on either side of the playfield, and one to help keep the wiring harness out of the way. We were doing a funhouse, so we put the playfield in vertically, and lowered onto the mounting pins. Edit: This method may only work with games that use a single pivot pins for the playfield mount (like system 11 and early WPC games).

    #65 1 year ago
    Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

    Two things I did to make it easier:
    1. Protect the inside of the cabinet with a layer of masking tape. I use blue painters tape, and it is pretty easy to tell where the playfield scrapes on it when you raise and lower the playfield.
    2. When you move the playfield to the cabinet, get some help. Last time I did it, it took three people: one on either side of the playfield, and one to help keep the wiring harness out of the way. We were doing a funhouse, so we put the playfield in vertically, and lowered onto the mounting pins.

    Excellent idea! Is Funhouse mounted on the pivot pins like TAF or Does it have the slide mechanism?

    #66 1 year ago

    I got an IJ I need to put back in the cab this weekend.....

    #67 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Excellent idea! Is Funhouse mounted on the pivot pins like TAF or Does it have the slide mechanism?

    It has just mounting pins, no slide mechanism. You may be able to do something similar with playfields mounted on slides.

    Edit:
    After looking at the pictures of the IJ playfield latch mechanism, putting the playfield in vertically may not make it any easier.

    #68 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Vid,
    Would it be possible for you to show or explain how you put the playfield back inside the cabinet without scratching the sides? Is there a way to make this task a little easier? Thanks!

    While you have the playfield out, sand the sides to remove any rough stuff.

    Make sure none of the metal parts (ie: ramp edges) stick past the wood side rails.

    Like uncivil said, run 2" blue tape down the sides of the playfield.

    Never install mirror blades or decals on the insides of the cab - they will forever be a point of worry every single time you need to service the game.

    #69 1 year ago
    Quoted from KornFreak28:

    Vid,
    Would it be possible for you to show or explain how you put the playfield back inside the cabinet without scratching the sides? Is there a way to make this task a little easier? Thanks!

    Not really needed to put a playfield back into a cab, but can be used for that purpose. Rather, if you have mirror blades or decals to help protect them when you are working on your machine(s):
    https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

    #70 1 year ago
    Quoted from Lamprey:

    Not really needed to put a playfield back into a cab, but can be used for that purpose. Rather, if you have mirror blades or decals to help protect them when you are working on your machine(s):
    https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

    Looks like a good option to protect the side art! Thanks!

    #71 1 year ago

    vid- when you say remove any "enclosed switches" before dishwashing, are you referring to cherry micro-switches? or relay-type switches?

    #72 1 year ago
    Quoted from bigehrl:

    vid- when you say remove any "enclosed switches" before dishwashing, are you referring to cherry micro-switches? or relay-type switches?

    Anything that might get water inside an enclosed housing.

    A Cherry switch might have been water-resistant 30 years ago, but now, I would not trust that the seals are still intact.

    Dishwasher soap has really fine sand that could get inside an enclosed switch.

    Open switches (like leaf switches) are fine to wash, because they can't fill with water.

    Don't wash me

    #73 1 year ago

    I’ve seen different ways to install t-nuts in a new pf, but can’t recall seeing a Vid method. Perhaps i’ve missed it in another thread so if its already been covered my bad.

    #74 1 year ago
    Quoted from Completist:

    I’ve seen different ways to install t-nuts in a new pf, but can’t recall seeing a Vid method. Perhaps i’ve missed it in another thread so if its already been covered my bad.

    Somewhere I've shown that I have a workbench with "auto trunk liner carpet" on the top of it (normally used for working on guitars).

    I just lay the playfield face down, and set all the T-nuts with a blow from a Deadblow hammer.

    Sometimes there are a few on the playfield face, and if they are too close to an insert, I tap them in with a punch.

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    #75 1 year ago

    Looks like the contacts at Great Plains are *also* sold out - any other good source??

    3 weeks later
    #77 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Like uncivil said, run 2" blue tape down the sides of the playfield.

    Long term -- I like using a 6" strip of thin hobby black felt tape with a sticky backing -- sometimes the end peels up and I have to re-apply, but I feel for $.50 of felt tape, I'm keeping the scratches down.

    -mof

    amazon.com link »

    #78 1 year ago

    Sure, or the furry size of a Velcro roll, self stick and very durable.

    #79 1 year ago
    Quoted from mof:

    Long term -- I like using a 6" strip of thin hobby black felt tape with a sticky backing -- sometimes the end peels up and I have to re-apply, but I feel for $.50 of felt tape, I'm keeping the scratches down.
    -mof
    amazon.com link »

    Similar but better adhesion - get a fat yard of regular felt. Cut a strip with a straight edge and glue it to the side of the playfield with acrylic gel medium. It'll stick way better than the peel and stick stuff.

    1 week later
    #80 1 year ago

    I have been working on replacing all the housings and crimp connections on a Xenon.I was going to be satisfied with this and replacing the header pins. During this process I acquired a reproduction playfield- never thought I was going to find one, but it is a beauty and now I want to follow this tutorial and clean everything including the harness. Since I went out of order in this tutorial , I am hoping the new housings and new crimp connections will be fine to run through the dishwashing process.Please say yes.

    #81 1 year ago
    Quoted from sgorsuch:

    I am hoping the new housings and new crimp connections will be fine to run through the dishwashing process.

    Please say yes.

    Yes

    #82 1 year ago

    Vid— Do you recommend filing off the fins of wire guides if they are going back into an older playfield?

    #83 1 year ago
    Quoted from Spraynard:

    Vid— Do you recommend filing off the fins of wire guides if they are going back into an older playfield?

    Yep, file them off, and just secure them with a drop of white glue

    Saves the headaches of the fins cracking the clear if you ever have to remove it again.

    #84 1 year ago

    That is a relief and it your welcomed response made me laugh. Thanks again for a really informative tutorial.

    #85 1 year ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yep, file them off, and just secure them with a drop of white glue
    Saves the headaches of the fins cracking the clear if you ever have to remove it again.

    How did they get those things in in the first place. The hole is round before you remove them.

    #86 1 year ago
    Quoted from yellowghost:

    How did they get those things in in the first place. The hole is round before you remove them.

    The wood was soft when it was new, and there was almost no topcoat (the topcoat was silkscreened on, not sprayed).

    Over the years, the wood swells back, but with a magnifying glass, you can see the fin slots.

    #87 1 year ago

    What is the tiny diode looking thing on the switch for my SBM? Can I use the same foods diodes that I already have for my newer games? I think they are 1N4004.

    IMG_20190108_173529 (resized).jpg
    #88 1 year ago
    Quoted from kcZ:

    What is the tiny diode looking thing on the switch for my SBM? Can I use the same foods diodes that I already have for my newer games? I think they are 1N4004.[quoted image]

    That is indeed a diode.

    Yes you can replace bad ones with 1N4004, pay attention to the direction of the band.

    #89 1 year ago

    I'll second that, the original is an 1N4148, your newer ones are most likely 1N4004 as you mention, see pics for the current / voltage difference.

    20190108_181555 (resized).jpg20190108_181559 (resized).jpg
    #90 1 year ago

    Lol... Minimum order is $5. The caps are less than a penny in quantities over 100. I don't need 500 of these. Probably have 80 diodes already as well.

    Anything else I should order to "have around". Restoring a SBM now, maybe TZ in the future.

    #91 1 year ago
    Quoted from kcZ:

    Anything else I should order to "have around"

    How are you for connectors and contacts?
    Early Bally games often need repinning.

    Set yourself up with some IC sockets...
    Trust me, you can find $5 fast!

    #92 1 year ago

    New board prior to my ownership.

    #93 1 year ago

    Thanks for posting and maintaining this topic Vid. I have a new TAF playfield to install and I always find your guidance to be accurate and to the point.
    I will definitely be using this when I start the project!

    #94 1 year ago

    Pick up some SCRs and/or Transistors. Between 1N4004s and MCR106 & 2N5060 SCRs and some TIP102 you should be fill that cart in no time. I keep these by the dozens and I've only really worked on a handful of machines.

    #95 1 year ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    Pick up some SCRs and/or Transistors. Between 1N4004s and MCR106 & 2N5060 SCRs and some TIP102 you should be fill that cart in no time. I keep these by the dozens and I've only really worked on a handful of machines.

    Lol... Pretty sure that I have all that except the MCR106... Added a few of everything just cause I don't know the quantities I have at home. Order up to $11 now. Thanks.

    #96 1 year ago

    I admire your restraint, most of my orders are over $50!
    One thing I've noticed with them, I just pay for first class mail, the orders still seem to get here just as fast (small packages) as if they were shipped priority or even UPS or FEDEx.

    3 months later
    #97 1 year ago

    I wish Vid would have finished this guide before he dissapeared....
    Come back Vid!

    1 week later
    #98 1 year ago

    Love your guides, I've learned so much from them, thanks!

    I hav a question about drill bits, as in, what kind to use. CPR install guide asks for Brad-Tipped bits, but you picture regular conical bits in this guide. Are brad-tipped bits overkill?

    From CPR install guide:

    It is highly recommended to use a small BRAD-TIPPED drill bit to “start” the dimples. This prevents screw-splitting the new wood.
    Always use a bit size that is 20 to 40% smaller than the screw diameter itself. The screw needs something left to bite into

    1 month later
    #100 1 year ago

    Say, where *is* Vid anyway? Taking time off from Pinside having become a full time job?

    Quoted from Jarson:

    I hav a question about drill bits, as in, what kind to use. CPR install guide asks for Brad-Tipped bits, but you picture regular conical bits in this guide. Are brad-tipped bits overkill?

    Brad point bits are a necessity. You don't need a whole huge bit index of them, just get a small set, as you'll mostly use the 3/32 - 1/8, in that range. The difference is that the brad points slice through the clear coat somewhat surgically. My personal preference is to cut through only the clear holding the bit by hand; you'll often be able to pull off a little circle of clear. A 1/8" hole in in the clear is comfortably larger than the hole you will then drill for the screw or wire guide, which is good (the reasoning is covered in this guide). Once you have the clear sliced through and have established your smaller pilot hole, I then take a countersink - again, working by hand - and ease the edges of the clear. Now you can drive screws without disturbing the clear coat's bond to the surface around it.

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