(Topic ID: 35965)

Vid's Guide - Bally/Stern Driver Board Repair / Bulletproofing.

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Post #2 Bally -22 driver board section Posted by vid1900 (11 years ago)

Post #81 Stern SDU-100 board section Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)

Post #96 Rectifier board section Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)


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#190 6 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Here is a list of the minimum bulletproofing needed for a Classic Stern board on the front side:
1. Replace C26 and C23 Caps. These always have to go if they are the silver originals, or if more than 10 years old since being replaced.
2. Add 3/16 amp fuse protection for HV.
3. Replace .156" male pin connectors. These are always tarnished with broken solder joints. They are so cheap, it's not worth trying to clean or resolder them.
4. Replace .1" male pin connectors. These are even worse than the .156" connectors. Trash 'em.
5. Upon first time powering up the board, remember to set the HV to +170V (or lower if the displays will stay lit) using the little thumb wheel in the HV circuit. The lower the voltage, the longer the displays will last.
The only exception to this rule is if you have installed BRAND NEW display glass; because new displays will probably require +190V for a few hours until they break themselves in. After a few hours of play, turn the HV back down to +170V (or lower).
Remember this is high voltage - use care!

That fuse holder almost looks like it belongs there, yes?

This might be dumb, but can the HV section bite you with the power off and game unplugged? I'm about to bulletproof one of these for the first time and wasn't sure if it was like the anodes on old CRTs that can still knock you on your ass even after they've been off.

#192 6 years ago

Thanks, vid. Just wanted to clarify. My first-born is due any day now, and I want to be sure I'm around for the party!

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