On connector J1 I am missing a blue wire on my Lost World. Does this game not use two blue wires on the powersupply?

According to this J1 has two blue wires?

B8BF7E6E-1F96-4C77-834F-AA95932C25E6 (resized).jpeg

That is for Bally KISS pinball.

It's in the schematics. There is only 1 solid blue wire and that J1 connector is only 8 pins total, not 9 pins.
Please take a moment to learn how the wire color codes are marked.

LostWorld_Rectifier_Wiring.png

Oh shit! Thanks I think I bought the wrong power supply too.. I’ve got nine pins on J1

0E84508E-1712-40E8-8713-9CCFE75BC37E (resized).jpeg

If I follow the schematics for the Kiss wiring on J1 and J2 everything works except bottom part of GI is out..

Game is working now except bottom GI.. Any suggestions?

821B6806-6392-47B6-9600-844F1AF53019 (resized).jpeg

No big deal. Just ignore the extra 9th pin on your board.

Thanks everything is working except half the GI now.. Looking for a short now..

Turned on Stars and only had GI lights. Took the backglass out and noted the CPU power and test lamps were on solid.

Found the CPU +5volts was 4.2v and which comes from the regulator on the power driver board connected to the +12v which was pulled down to +10v.

After reading this tread, picked up new ESR meter and new replacements for C23 and C24. Meter confirmed both were shot, so replaced them and added the TP1-TP3 jumper, and back in action.

Thanks Vid, wherever you are.

Phantasm-1-660x330 (resized).jpg

I’m working on a Bally 2518-22 SDB for a friend. He brought over a box of crap and would like me to see what I can do. I have very little experience and knowledge, but I would dive in and try. I’ve been able to get 4 up and running 100% and that feels great. BUT, he has one that locks on ALL coils on power up and blows playfield fuse. It came in that way. I’ve rebuilt J3 and J4 with new pins. Checked tip102 transistors and they measure normal. Thought it might be the U2 chip on the board, it was nasty looking. Pulled another off a parts board and no change. So, what would lock on all coils at power up? All driver board test points are within range.
Thanks for any help.

I know this is old, but it just helped me greatly. Thanks!

Hey Vid, can you give any advice or maybe a guide for Stern Sound boards? I've got a Catacomb that screeches a single sound bit god awfully loud on power up.

Is it ok to use a 2.2uf instead of the 2uf for C24?

-Pat

Yes.

Does anybody know if there is a thread where the relevant part numbers are listed for doing complete bullet proofing work on various boards? I can buy kits from Big Daddy, and appreciate that they have those ready to go, but if you have to do multiples that option gets pretty expensive.
Just wondering if this info is compiled somewhere already before I dive into a big research project…

Big Daddy lists the actual parts that are included in the kits on his site -

Ooh, I missed that! Thanks.

I'm rebuilding the bridge rectifier board for my Paragon. Pinball life has these 35amp/600v bridge rectifiers, will these work? I assumed they would I just wanted to check first.
https://www.pinballlife.com/bridge-rectifier-35amp-600volt.html

Apologies for the stupid question here, but exactly what type of wire are you using here? I think I've read that this should be 18 AWG? I'm assuming silicone and stranded?

This will be my first attempt at this and while I'm struck with a little concern I also need to remind myself that with some care this isn't that tough.

You can use 20 or 22 ga wire, I prefer stranded, (since I have it on hand), but solid will work. There really won’t be any current on the jumper.

You can use silicone or PVC coated wires. I'm partial to PVC, as they feel a little stiffer and tend to be a slightly smaller outside diameter.