(Topic ID: 35965)

Vid's Guide - Bally/Stern Driver Board Repair / Bulletproofing.


By vid1900

6 years ago



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  • 200 posts
  • 52 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Mombo-number-5
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There are 200 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 4 years ago

The popular online pinout showing the underside of the board is incorrect on several pins; showing them in the wrong locations.

Use this one for best results.

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#102 4 years ago

The -18 boards were not the best design, so we are going to make a few improvements.

Here we beef up the 7VAC connection on J1 to the main circuit.

Bally even left us some nice through holes on the circuit board to make this connection.

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#103 4 years ago

Here we beef up the J1 43VDC solenoid voltage to the main circuit.

No circuit board holes here, carefully solder J1 pin #6 to the main 43VDC circuit.

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#104 4 years ago

On J1 and J3, some of the ground connections are only made on the top of the circuit board.

You can greatly beef them up by tying them into ground, either on the bottom of the circuit board, or to the top.

The reason many techs tie them into the top ground plane, is that you can see that the work has been done for the next tech.

Tying them into the back looks cleaner, though.

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#105 4 years ago

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#106 4 years ago

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#107 4 years ago

Bally probably saved .30 cents by using tiny 8A rectifiers.

We are going to beef them up with monster 400V 35A rectifiers that if you take the time to use a heatsink, they might never blow out again in home use.

Because the 35A rectifiers are so large, we are going to mount them on the top of the board, rather than on the bottom like Bally did.

Great Plains Part Number: GBPC3504W

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#108 4 years ago

We can easily bend 2 of the legs to match the footprint of the old 8A rectifiers.

Solder the center rectifier in first, then the outside ones last. You will see why once you start bending, lol.

Note that one corner of the rectifier is cut off to mark the POSITIVE lead. There is a + symbol on the top of the circuit board for each rectifier.

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#109 4 years ago

Here we have mounted the rectifiers as far above the circuit board as possible.

This give room for airflow.

This lets us see the topside solder joints.

This lets us attach heat sinks using bolts at a latter time.

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#110 4 years ago

Replace any blackened fuse clips. No, you can't clean them. Once they get hot and corroded enough to turn black, they lose their tension. Use HIGH CURRENT clips here, Great Plains Part Number: 1A1907-03.

Now it's time to test your work.

Rather than blowing up the rest of your boards, it's best to test outside of the game, on the bench.

Connector J2, pins #6&7 take the line voltage (115VAC here in the USA).

Using an old power cord, crimp together a connector you can use for all your Classic Bally servicing.

There are two sources of high voltage, the line voltage (115VAC) and the display voltage (190VDC) - so you need to be careful as you work. Remember that the transformer is ready to shock the careless tech too.

TP1 - (4.6 - 6.4VDC) this is protected by the F1 fuse, and is Bridge Rectifier #1. This supplies voltage to the switched lamps.

TP2 - (160-250VDC) This is protected by fuse F2, and is the group of diodes CR1-4. This supplies the voltage to the displays.

TP3 - (11-16VDC) Fuse F3, Bridge Rectifier #2. This latter becomes the 5VDC that powers the game's logic circuits on the Solenoid Driver Board.

TP4 - (6.3 to 8VAC) Fuse F5. This is the GI lighting circuit.

TP5 - (40-49VDC ) Fuse F4, Bridge Rectifier #3. This powers all the coils in the game.

=====================================================

Q: Vid, I don't like the big range of possible voltages. Why are they not just nice even numbers like 6v or 12v?

A: Remember these are Unregulated Voltages. No capacitors or voltage regulators have touched the voltages yet. So depending on your home's line voltage, there can be some big swings in the actual numbers.

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#111 4 years ago

Putting some heatsinks onto your oversized rectifiers will probably make them last your entire lifetime.

Use the LEAST amount of Thermal Paste that will give 100% coverage.

Spread a tiny amount of paste, press the heatsink onto the face of the rectifier, and pull straight off to check for coverage. If you missed a spot, smear some of the existing paste into the void and press the parts together again.

Once you have 100% coverage, run a bolt through the heatsink and tighten it down.

You can also get Adhesive Thermal Pad at any computer store and use it to secure the heatsink - no bolts needed.

Paste is technically a better conductor of heat over Pads, but for our application, it does not matter.

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#112 4 years ago

Like always, I'll fix any spelling or other errors over the next few days.....

1 week later
#113 4 years ago

Thanks for the post vid, I rebuilt my board and now I am blowing F3 fuse as soon as power is on. What now?

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#114 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

I am blowing F3 fuse as soon as power is on. What now?

Fuse F3 is bridge rectifier #2, so check that with your meter (power off) and make sure it's not shorted.

Unplug all 3 connectors and just apply 120vac as here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing/page/3#post-2113953

Does fuse blow?

Do voltages measure normal?

#115 4 years ago

What kind of reading am I looking for on the bridge. BR2 in higher then 1&3. I need to put together a power cord to bench check. Seems kinda of scary, sure I'm going to get zapped.

#116 4 years ago

Made the power cord. As soon as I plugged it in F3 turned red. I unplugged before it blew. Think I should replace BR2 and try again?

#117 4 years ago

Where would this forum be without the expert tech folks like Vid. He has helped me on a number of occasions. Vid, you're still the man. I am grateful for all you do!

Thank you

George...

#118 4 years ago

Hey Vid, what do you use to hold the boards when are replacing parts? Do you just lay them on a table? Thanks in advance.

#119 4 years ago

Why do the coils have a diode?

what does it do exactly?

I notice that some coils have a diode and some dont

#120 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

Made the power cord. As soon as I plugged it in F3 turned red. I unplugged before it blew. Think I should replace BR2 and try again?

With the power off, you can test BR2 with your meter in diode mode.

Also check board for solder splash.

Make sure proper leads from transformer are in the right place (if you unhooked the transformer leads).

#121 4 years ago
Quoted from GL_Pinguy:

Hey Vid, what do you use to hold the boards when are replacing parts? Do you just lay them on a table? Thanks in advance.

I've got a circuit board holder thingy from Panavise that I stole from work.

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#122 4 years ago
Quoted from irobot:

Why do the coils have a diode?
what does it do exactly?
I notice that some coils have a diode and some dont

Think of the diode as kind of a surge suppressor.

Some circuits have the diode directly on the coil, and some have it upstream on the circuit board.

Without the diode, the transistor that drives the coil blows up.

#123 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

With the power off, you can test BR2 with your meter in diode mode.
Also check board for solder splash.
Make sure proper leads from transformer are in the right place (if you unhooked the transformer leads).

Tested the rectifiers. BR1 026, BR2 1060, BR3 608. I have 3 new rectifiers and they test at 1022. Checked solder splash all is good. Checked continuity through out the board and all is good.

#124 4 years ago

Update, fuse not blowing, reading at TP1 6.2, TP2 251, TP3 .54, TP4 7.1, TP5 44.7

#125 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

Update, fuse not blowing, reading at TP1 6.2, TP2 251, TP3 .54, TP4 7.1, TP5 44.7

Pull fuse out and check it again - out of circuit.

Replace the BR.

#126 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Pull fuse out and check it again - out of circuit.
Replace the BR.

Fuse good, replaced BR, all TP's are now good. Plugged in J1 good, plug in J3 nothing, F3 blows again.
It's getting the best of me. Think I will rebuild another board.

#127 4 years ago

Check the 12v lugs on the transformer.

#128 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Check the 12v lugs on the transformer.

7.8 and 6.0. When I plug in J3 they both drop below 1.

#129 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

7.8 and 6.0. When I plug in J3 they both drop below 1.

Isolate the boards(mpu j4, driver j3). Check resistance on the 12v rail of each board to ground. See if one is shorted or has low resistance.

#130 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Isolate the boards(mpu j4, driver j3). Check resistance on the 12v rail of each board to ground. See if one is shorted or has low resistance.

Everything seems good, something is taking the 12v out. I know it's something right in front of my face.

#131 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-one:

Everything seems good, something is taking the 12v out. I know it's something right in front of my face.

Post some REALLY GOOD and WELL LIT photos of both sides of your board.

Then do the same with your connectors.

#132 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Post some REALLY GOOD and WELL LIT photos of both sides of your board.
Then do the same with your connectors.

If you need more or better let me know. Thank you for your help!

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#133 4 years ago

Great thread!!! just got my new Eight Ball working with all the info

#134 4 years ago

Soooooo can all of this be applied to my newly rebuilt -49?

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#135 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Soooooo can all of this be applied to my newly rebuilt -49?

IMG_2812.JPG 334 KB

Most of it applies.

I see you got rid of the 2 varos and replaced them with a single bridge rectifier, that's a good replacement tip.

#136 4 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Most of it applies.
I see you got rid of the 2 varos and replaced them with a single bridge rectifier, that's a good replacement tip.

S. Kulpa style.

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_49ps.htm

3 months later
#137 4 years ago

So, since I seem to be allergic to buying new crap I always buy low priced used crap! At TPF last month I got this gem of a Stern 100 board that I have never dealt with before. I'm in the process of rebuilding it and need to know where the fuse should go. It doesn't look like any other one I have seen pics of. A link to a schematic would be really helpful...

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#138 4 years ago

put that thing in the dish washer. Its nasty.

#139 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballlizard:

put that thing in the dish washer. Its nasty.

take the relay off first.

#140 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballlizard:

put that thing in the dish washer. Its nasty.

Quoted from barakandl:

take the relay off first.

+1 to these. By the time you're done you'll have a nice clean new-like board.

And since you pulled it off, replace the LM323 with one of these:

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html

viperrwk

#141 4 years ago

I wash my PCBs with soapy water and a tooth brush. Then i use Naphtha to remove the flux and displace the water. Set it front of box fan for a few hours and it is ready.

Cleaning is cosmetic, but a nice shiny, good clean looking PCB sells easier.

Unless the board is really really dirty, i wait to clean as a final step... just a time savor so i am not removing flux two times. Putting the relay back on i use no clean solder or spot clean the flux off if it looks messy.

Here is a tip for the driver board. Put a washer underneath the heat sinks where the screw mounts are at. That lifts the heat sink up off the board so when you wash the PCB, the water can run out from underneath it and not get water / naphtha trapped under the heat sinks when you wash. Most or many Bally boards came with washers under the heat sinks, but many are missing anymore as repair work got done and people didnt put the washers back.

#142 4 years ago

Yup. To all that. After I finish pulling components and pins it gets a thorough scrub down and inspection of all traces. Can't wait to figure out what all the extra wires are soldered on the bottom.

Quoted from viperrwk:

+1 to these. By the time you're done you'll have a nice clean new-like board.
And since you pulled it off, replace the LM323 with one of these:
http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html
viperrwk

Already got GPE's version, but thanks for the heads up.
IMG_3768.JPG

Working on my 6th S/S and have yet to buy a new board. I've bought a couple of CPUs and score displays off e-pay and most everything else either came with the machine or I picked up at the TPF swap meets. I love used.

2 weeks later
#143 4 years ago

Stripped and cleaned except for what you see. Will get all new components.
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Yikes.
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#144 4 years ago

Starting the re-population process. I still am looking for a schematic to this thing. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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#145 4 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Starting the re-population process. I still am looking for a schematic to this thing. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
IMG_3835.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

Browse through some of the MPU-200 games on IPDB and see if you can find one with an SDU-100 B board in it. Then assuming that the game originally came with the revision B board, grab the manual for that game for the schematic. The schematic should note the board revision.

#146 4 years ago

Did that. I have come across several different solenoid schematics that way and none of them sport a revision letter. They are odd diagrams, broken into sections by voltage. Makes sense, I guess. Just not used to looking at them that way. Time will tell if it is helpful or not.

2 months later
#147 3 years ago

When replacing the 330ohm and 120ohm restistors on the Bally AS-2518-22 driver board, what wattages should be used?

#148 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

When replacing the 330ohm and 120ohm restistors on the Bally AS-2518-22 driver board, what wattages should be used?

R-35 is 1 watt, R-51 and 56 should be 1/2 watt and all others are 1/4 watt.

#150 3 years ago

I just read this post, nice guides you do. A heck of a lot of current must have hit that one trace all at once for it to "vaporize" like that. All you could see was the gap in the solder mask where the trace once was and the bare PCB...

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