(Topic ID: 220072)

Vids Guide Hardtop Restoration: Comet


By vid1900

10 months ago



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  • 144 posts
  • 44 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by HoakyPoaky
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    There are 144 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 5 months ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    I installed my hardtop last night, and it went great. I wet sanded the inserts down to 2400 grit, and they look fantastic.
    As I've begun the process of repopulating the playfield, I've noticed one problem-- the bottom of the metal ramp to the million point shot is slightly lower than the surface of the playfield. Has anyone else noticed this? Did it effect game play? I was thinking about making a flap out of a piece of spring steel. Thoughts?

    Check out some of the hardtop install videos on youtube. Shims can be used, or as another alternative pouring some epoxy into that area to fill and even out, but that only works before it's installed......

    In your case some thin styrene shims should work great.

    #102 5 months ago

    double post

    #103 5 months ago

    Where would you suggest shimming? The bottom of that ramp attaches to the underside of the playfield, so trying to shim that would make the problem worse. Unless I'm misunderstanding...

    #104 5 months ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    Where would you suggest shimming? The bottom of that ramp attaches to the underside of the playfield, so trying to shim that would make the problem worse. Unless I'm misunderstanding...

    May be I misunderstood....can you post a pic of the problem area?

    #105 5 months ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    I've noticed one problem-- the bottom of the metal ramp to the million point shot is slightly lower than the surface of the playfield. Has anyone else noticed this? Did it effect game play? I was thinking about making a flap out of a piece of spring steel. Thoughts?

    If you wanted to raise the ramp, you'd have to remove a little bit of wood from the underside of the playfield.

    Probably a 5 minute job.

    #106 5 months ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    I installed my hardtop last night, and it went great. I wet sanded the inserts down to 2400 grit, and they look fantastic.
    As I've begun the process of repopulating the playfield, I've noticed one problem-- the bottom of the metal ramp to the million point shot is slightly lower than the surface of the playfield. Has anyone else noticed this? Did it effect game play? I was thinking about making a flap out of a piece of spring steel. Thoughts?

    I'm always surprised these early ramps don't all have flaps. I've been thinking about making them for my dual level games and a friend's space shuttle...

    Has anyone seen this done before?

    #107 5 months ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I'm always surprised these early ramps don't all have flaps. I've been thinking about making them for my dual level games and a friend's space shuttle...
    Has anyone seen this done before?

    I put flaps on many Space Shuttles.

    90ae6af8511ff3657ff5183bcd6a591be26f6f49 (resized).jpg
    #108 5 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If you wanted to raise the ramp, you'd have to remove a little bit of wood from the underside of the playfield.
    Probably a 5 minute job.

    I was waiting for someone to say that I'm not quite sure how to do that without running the risk of making a mess of the whole thing. How would you suggest tackling this?

    #109 5 months ago
    Quoted from drsfmd:

    I was waiting for someone to say that I'm not quite sure how to do that without running the risk of making a mess of the whole thing. How would you suggest tackling this?

    Using a brand new utility blade, trace the outline of the ramp flap into the underside of the playfield.

    Keep going deeper until you are as deep as the amount you want to raise the ramp.

    Remove the ramp and simply chisel out the waste wood.

    Go slow if you've never used a chisel before.

    Never use a dull chisel

    Put the ramp back and see if it's high enough, if not, chisel more.

    When it's right, put the screws back in. Use shorter screws, of course, lol

    4 weeks later
    #110 4 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I put flaps on many Space Shuttles. [quoted image]

    Vid where do you get these? I looked all over the internet for the space shuttle I'm restoring and couldn't seem to find them in production anywhere.

    Thanks

    #111 4 months ago
    Quoted from Tronn1982:

    Vid where do you get these? I looked all over the internet for the space shuttle I'm restoring and couldn't seem to find them in production anywhere.
    Thanks

    Probably Marco

    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-FLAP

    Or Pinbits

    https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9

    It does not have to be made for SS, it just has to be adaptable to it.....if you know what I mean.

    You can get blank spring steel if you want to cut your own.

    1 week later
    #112 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    After a few days your clearcoat will be hard enough to wetsand out any crud that fell into your clear.
    The playfield has to be ABSOLUTELY smooth! Any trash that you can feel with your fingers will telegraph through the Hardtop.
    Run your hands over the finish and find any trash. Wetsand it out so that the playfield is totally flat.
    If trash fell onto an insert, sand it out AND buff the area to a mirror shine. Remember you can see the inserts through the Hardtop.
    I did not have any pictures of this step, as I shot the clear in a downdraft paint booth - nothing fell into the finish (I'm not always that lucky, lol).

    Sorry for piling on to a 6-month old thread, but thought this might be helpful.

    One trick I picked up from my car detailing days is to put your hand in a baggie (e.g.: Ziploc) when feeling a surface to see if it's smooth. The baggie helps amplify any imperfections in the surface so they can be better felt.

    Might be overkill for a PF, so please feel free to tell me to STFU

    1 week later
    #113 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    When I put a scratch under the apron to see if I could buff it out like a normal playfield, it was softer than the 2Pac I always use.

    We’re u able to buff out the scratch? If so, how did u do it?

    #114 3 months ago
    Quoted from cjchand:

    Sorry for piling on to a 6-month old thread, but thought this might be helpful.
    One trick I picked up from my car detailing days is to put your hand in a baggie (e.g.: Ziploc) when feeling a surface to see if it's smooth. The baggie helps amplify any imperfections in the surface so they can be better felt.
    Might be overkill for a PF, so please feel free to tell me to STFU

    Actually it isn't overkill, and a great tip. Any piece of debris/dirt/whatever will cause the hardtop not to stick as well in that area, and may cause adhesion issues and bubbles in the future.

    #115 3 months ago
    Quoted from eagle18:

    We’re u able to buff out the scratch? If so, how did u do it?

    Buffed out with Novus.

    I'll scratch the next one I install and post pictures.

    1 week later
    #116 3 months ago

    A question about the rollover cutout. Does the bit you recommend not bite into the wood? I pick up a Firepower tomorrow and already have a hardtop in order and this is the one part that that seems like it would be easy to FU.

    #117 3 months ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    A question about the rollover cutout. Does the bit you recommend not bite into the wood? I pick up a Firepower tomorrow and already have a hardtop in order and this is the one part that that seems like it would be easy to FU.

    The plastic is softer than the wood, so it just quickly eats away.

    The wood will still have some old mastic still on it, so you will instantly feel the **tug** of when the bit touches it.

    It's not something you are likely to mess up, so relax, and it will go fine.

    #118 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    The plastic is softer than the wood, so it just quickly eats away.
    The wood will still have some old mastic still on it, so you will instantly feel the **tug** of when the bit touches it.
    It's not something you are likely to mess up, so relax, and it will go fine.

    Is there enough room for a top mount bearing guide on a router bit?

    #119 3 months ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    Is there enough room for a top mount bearing guide on a router bit?

    You could use a bottom bearing template bit, if you had one with a 1/4" shaft

    Or a Roto-Zip pilot tip bit.

    #120 3 months ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    A question about the rollover cutout. Does the bit you recommend not bite into the wood? I pick up a Firepower tomorrow and already have a hardtop in order and this is the one part that that seems like it would be easy to FU.

    I had a some of the hardtop that was hanging over the side of the playfield a bit. So I was able to practice on that and get a feel for how it would eat away the hardtop compared to the wood. After that I felt more confident and the rollover came out perfect. Of course that might not work for you if your hardtop and playfield line up differently. At any rate, like Vid said, the plastic gets eaten away quickly, so a gentle touch and it should come out fine.

    Speaking of the rollover, I do have a question about what it actually does. The other day I was getting some phantom switch triggering of the switch where the ball leaves the shooter lane. I then made a shot that went 1/2 way up the corkscrew and came back down. Since that switch was triggering I was awarded a free ball. I assumed that's what the rollover is for? Perhaps they built in some redundancy? Didn't check to see if the 1986 would also trigger a free ball, just fixed the switch and moved on.

    #121 3 months ago

    The rollover tells the game that you actually completed the entire ramp.

    The entrance switch is triggered first, then you have to trigger the rollover before any other playfield switch is activated.

    #122 3 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    The rollover tells the game that you actually completed the entire ramp.
    The entrance switch is triggered first, then you have to trigger the rollover before any other playfield switch is activated.

    That's what I was thinking, but now thinking it's somewhat redundant. If the ball hits the switch by the shooting lane it also seem to know the Corkscrew was completed, thus the free ball for the uncompleted Corkscrew. Next time I'm in there I'll have to test to see if it gives a free ball when it hits the 1986 switches too. Makes sense to build in some redundancy, people would be pissed to be cheated out of a free ball if a switch isn't working.

    #123 3 months ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    A question about the rollover cutout. Does the bit you recommend not bite into the wood? I pick up a Firepower tomorrow and already have a hardtop in order and this is the one part that that seems like it would be easy to FU.

    Like others have said, don't worry about eating into the wood. DO however worry about slipping out of the hole and dremeling on top of the surrounding hard top. Because I definitely did that on one of my FG rollovers. Fortunately it wasn't too bad and I was able to buff it out but it could have been bad. Just don't put to much pressure and you'll be fine. If I had a do over, I'd use one of these things.

    410bW7QpkQL._SX425_ (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #124 79 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Tap the Roll Pin with a punch to remove the Linkage. You don't have to take the Roll Pin all the way out, just enough to remove the Linkage.

    I’m trying a flipper rebuild and can’t seem to get the roll pin out with a tap or a slap. Any suggestions ?

    image (resized).jpg
    #125 79 days ago

    Open your bench vise just slightly larger than the rollpin

    Put the pin over the gap in the jaws.

    Drive it out with a punch the size of the pin

    35111 (resized).jpg

    #126 79 days ago

    Thanks sir! Was tapping it ever so hard but it was on a table edge. I’ll put it in the vise and try that !

    #127 77 days ago

    Finally. Pins out and linkage back together. All back in. Flippers rebuilt.
    Although I’m not seeing a big difference and the right one seems to chatter a bit.

    I’ve only done 3 sets of these rebuilds - usually because something wasn’t working - so when finished I see a difference. This was just to rebuild them before I sell the machine and the buyer thought the flippers weren’t strong enough. So I did the rebuild thinking that would take care of the issue.

    They’re both getting the balls to the top , just not kicking them too hard. And again the right one seems to now have a little chatter. I’ve adjusted the eos blades to have them at the end of stroke activated and checked the coil wires.

    Any suggestions to make these a lil stronger?
    It is a Hot Shot if that helps any?

    #128 77 days ago
    Quoted from Nikrox2:

    Finally. Pins out and linkage back together. All back in. Flippers rebuilt.
    Although I’m not seeing a big difference and the right one seems to chatter a bit.
    I’ve only done 3 sets of these rebuilds - usually because something wasn’t working - so when finished I see a difference. This was just to rebuild them before I sell the machine and the buyer thought the flippers weren’t strong enough. So I did the rebuild thinking that would take care of the issue.
    They’re both getting the balls to the top , just not kicking them too hard. And again the right one seems to now have a little chatter. I’ve adjusted the eos blades to have them at the end of stroke activated and checked the coil wires.
    Any suggestions to make these a lil stronger?
    It is a Hot Shot if that helps any?

    Did you replace the coils with Orange Dot coils from PB Resource? That will make a huge difference.

    #129 77 days ago

    No. I haven’t changed the coils. Just the rebuild kit I’ll look into that thanks!

    #130 76 days ago

    For this game is there a certain number coil you suggest ? Don’t want to order a wrong voltage / size , etc

    #131 76 days ago

    What I’ve found is A-1546 which has now been replaced by A-5141

    Is this the strongest or just the actual replacement ?

    #132 76 days ago

    Here are the ones I am talking about from Pinball Resource.

    http://www.pbresource.com/coilgtb.html

    A-5141B Orange Dot

    #133 76 days ago

    Thanks. Now. Is the “yellow dot”. A5141-A even more powerful? Reason not to go to that one ?

    #134 76 days ago

    Not sure if this is helpful, but make sure you have the correct coil stops in your Comet with the weak flippers. I had a Comet with rebuilt flippers, but someone put in the wrong coil stops (modern games have stops with longer posts coming off them). Look at the manual and make sure you installed the right P/N with the shorter posts. This ensures more flipper travel and the ball comes off the flippers much faster.

    #135 76 days ago

    Good comment. I got the rebuild kit from PBR and all seemed to match what I took off. I did notice adjusting the EOS blade made some changes (good and bad) so maybe I just need to keep working with that? But the stronger coils seem to be a possible answer. And for what $30? I think I’ll order a pair. Just don’t want to go too strong. So “yellow” or “orange” dot coils ?

    #136 75 days ago

    I have orange dots in my Target Alpha and I wouldn't want them stronger. It can already occasionally bounce off targets and smack the glass. Totally different era and manufacturer but that's my experience with the color ratings.

    #137 75 days ago

    Ahh good comments. And yes. Want stronger but not to a point to break off targets or break glass. Think I’ll go with the medium one as all have suggested. Thanks guys!

    #138 73 days ago

    Newbie here...looking for some guidance. I'm prepping my Mata Hari playfield for a hardtop install. I've got the inserts and surrounding areas sanded down, but also had to sand an area near/under the apron to get rid of a blemish on the art that the hardtop will replace. That sanded area is a bit whiter than the rest of the wood area. I put some napthia on it, and it looked ok before it evaporated so I sprayed some Krylon clear on it. Look pretty good for a few hours, but overnight it was back to slightly white again. Some of this wood area will be seen thru the hard top, so I want it to look ok.

    How do I remedy this? I'm thinking I'll need to:

    1 - Sand all of the areas of natural wood so it's consistent. What grit do I use on my orbital sander to do this? 220?
    2 - Apply polyurethane. I'm not equipped (equipment or skillz) for 2PAC so I'm hoping I can get away with poly in a rattle can. Which one? Minwax semi-gloss oil based ok?
    3 - I'm assuming the wood will look not white/a bit yellowy after drying, correct?
    4 - After applying poly, do I sand again? What grit?
    5 - Next step then is spraying clear? I'm using Krylon Colormaxx General Purpose Flat Crystal Clear Spray. Would something else be recommended?
    6 - After clear cures, sand again? What grit?

    Thank you....

    IMG_6344-2.jpg
    #139 68 days ago

    Hi Mathazar,
    I'm not far beyond newbie myself but I just finished a snake condo (four condo snake cage) with Varathane polyurethane top coat applied with a very cheap (think I paid like $10 after a 20% coupon) Harbor Freight paint gun and was extremely impressed with the results. Just watch a few YouTube videos and you'll be up to speed. I will be watching your progress with great interest as I'm contemplating doing the same to my Mata Hari!

    62300 20 fl. oz. HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun

    62300_W3 (resized).jpg
    #140 68 days ago

    I think you are over thinking things. You want to spray clear on the inserts so they have a smooth finish so they look good thru the Hardtop. You spray clear on the shooter lane because the Hardtop does not cover it although it does ultimately lift the ball so it does protect. Having said that, yes, you probably will see a bit of that whiter wood so you'll either have to sand enough to make it match or stain that lower area to make it all match. There isn't a need for the durability of the automotive clearcoats here. When the Hardtop arrives you can peel the top protective layer and lay it on the playfield. The inserts, shooter lane and bare wood parts will show thru so you can judge what it will look like.

    1 week later
    #141 56 days ago
    Quoted from Spraynard:

    Like others have said, don't worry about eating into the wood. DO however worry about slipping out of the hole and dremeling on top of the surrounding hard top. Because I definitely did that on one of my FG rollovers. Fortunately it wasn't too bad and I was able to buff it out but it could have been bad. Just don't put to much pressure and you'll be fine. If I had a do over, I'd use one of these things.
    [quoted image]

    This setup seems to work pretty well for me:

    IMG_0749 (resized).jpg
    1 month later
    #142 3 days ago

    Does anyone have the vector art (or hires) for the ducks rabbits and dummy for the comet?

    #143 2 days ago
    Quoted from jeffkics:

    Does anyone have the vector art (or hires) for the ducks rabbits and dummy for the comet?

    Pm me an email address. I have them somewhere.

    #144 1 day ago

    Thanks for posting this guide. I feel better about attempting this on my Taxi now

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