Holy smokes. BR's on an EDB power supply are quite possibly the most difficult things to desolder. I have never encountered such a difficult and time consuming task. SAKDFGJSDAJFKSDFSFJLSFKJSF
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Quoted from Occelot:Holy smokes. BR's on an EDB power supply are quite possibly the most difficult things to desolder. I have never encountered such a difficult and time consuming task. SAKDFGJSDAJFKSDFSFJLSFKJSF
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Did you cut them off so only had to desolder the pins? If not a bridge rectifier is a great heatsink
Put on a n95 mask and just dremel off the corners of the BR (divide and conquer), with abrasive cutting disc
Do this outside so you don't fill the house with lead dust
I like to leave lots of airflow room under the BRs so they last longer, easy to snip and replace.
030bfd6acbcfa44274dc4a7afbe980b9c8c7149b (resized).jpgIf I leave room under BRs on the EBD power supply, I won’t be able to screw it back to the base plate. Unless I mount the BRs on the top of the PS. Currently they are mounted on the bottom. Is that ok to mount on top?
So how do you ground them if you have them so far removed from the board? Do you have to ground them? (To my knowledge the center screw grounds them) (them, them, them
No ground other than the DC ground, which is the lug opposite the odd positioned lug. Hole in center is just to mount the BR to a board or to attach a heat sink. Outside of the bridge is not conductive. Just the four lugs.
Often the ones you're installing are an upgrade from the originals. If you're putting in 35 amp, 200 volt bridges, they're not likely to go bad again in your lifetime.
The transformer in games like EBD usually puts out a higher switched illumination bus voltage than the older games plus there is the aux lamp driver with extra lamps. The feature lamp bridge gets smoking hot in these games. I would put the bridge on the bottom so you can mount it against the substantial bracket as a heat sink. If you put it up on top of the board need to add a good heat sink and it may get in the way of the spit guard.
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