(Topic ID: 65979)

Vector Owners Club & Restorations Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

5 years ago



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  • 116 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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#28 5 years ago

I asked on the other thread, but might as well ask here too. How does one get the CPR repro parts onto those plastic spacers for the vertical "Vector" rectangle peice and the transparent back of pf arc-shaped part?

Here's mine from some shopping last weekend. Some confusion about the posts near the left main flipper & upper left flipper. Initially, it wasn't matching other photos.

IMG_0045.JPG

After many moons on here I'm finally part of a club!

9 months later
#37 4 years ago

Didn't bother with rivets, went with tiny screws & nuts instead.

Haven't done the other vertical plastic, but since it's 100% intact, I wonder if I should just make 2 fresh l-shaped brackets & go from there. Trying to Dremel out the old rivets was a failure.

2015-02-14 15.57.23.jpg

#39 4 years ago

Can someone take a picture of the backbox door latch next to a ruler? I'm going to have to craft one.

2 weeks later
#42 4 years ago

Welp, I got some repairs done with bulb replacements. Looks better. A few bulbs are still out, and checking with the voltmeter is showing a mere 2 volts. Hmm.

But the biggest problem with mine are the goofy switch mistakening. A left ramp hit will intermittently add a player, the pop bumper doesn't respond at all, and, well, that's what I've found so far. Anything I need to check/replace on the switches themselves? What I think should be diodes on the switches don't look like diodes, nor resistors.

I'm stumped.

#45 4 years ago

Thanks for the pics. Now I just need to find a piece of scrap metal to Dremel & make my own. Start with the square hole, then cut & bend it(if I can find a long-enough lock. the PBL one's too short on the barrel) and done.

Found out today that several screws were missing from the hinges holding the backbox together. And then somehow I found a bag of just-fits-right screws. So now the backbox door at least is a bit more secure.

Whole row of lights around the "sun" in the bb isn't working at all. In fact, it never has. Swapping with good bulbs confirmed this, so I have to track it down.

Still need to get 2 mounting screws on one of the coil assemblies to the underside of the PF.

Also need to find out what stuck switch there is in the service mode, which I'm thinking it does when it sounds the "dwoop dwoop dwoop" service mode phase.

The drop targets aren't lined up right(my fault) so the ball can sit in there. Just a quick adjustment and it shouldn't do that, plus the rear defender targets should reset(they don't).

Nico: I'm on my 3rd set of ROMs for it. They are "home v2" I think? Dunno the differences.

#46 4 years ago

Boy it helps to read the manual. Shoulda dun that ages ago. I un-stick one switch(in this case #9, the added-on coin-adder button), and now I have to resolve the stuck switches in one of the defender target sets. The droppies are much too low, so I'm assuming they are stuck on(the 3 switches) as a nice byproduct. What's weird is hitting the slam tilt switch turns on the backbox ring lights.

#51 4 years ago

Positive update from a last-minute effort last night.

1. Pop bumper switch confirmed not working. Coil works though.
2. It's no longer stuck on switch 9. Switch 9 is one of the coin switches. It was part of the wiring in the homemade coin-adder button. As soon as I un-soldered all the wires put in there, it finally went idle on the stuck switch mode. Before, it was always blinking 9, sometimes blinding it to other switches on the field.
3. Drop target sets smoothed out correctly. What's weird is one of the DT's switches(48?) pulses much slower than all the other switches. Every 1.5 seconds or so. Any other switch does it at a faster pace.
4. Correctly identified all the wires for all 3 coin switches. Only have a switch for 1, but can work with that. Would rather just flick the coin switch in the door than hit the button which was a bit overdone with wiring.

This just might get the game to behave a bit better.

#52 4 years ago

Progress report:

The game adding another player once you hit the left ramp gate problem is solved. It just what it was intended to to. Remaining problems, switch-wise:

1. Ball trough switch(#1) is rather finnicky. Sticks or doesn't register at all.
2. Pop bumper switch, despite everything I tried, not working.
3. Rearmost defender DT set not popping upward on reset. Time to loosen it up a bit. Makes game progression impossible.

2 steps forward, 1 step back.

#53 4 years ago

Found out the cause of the non-resetting drop targets: Too strong of springs. the XYZ targets that used to not reset, now reset fine. Hand-resetting them takes little effort. The defender targets take a bit more effort, beyond the capability of the coil. Time to find some softer alternatives.

#54 4 years ago

Swapped out the super-strong spring(which was new) to a flipper, swapped in a used spring, and all drop targets reset nice. Game actually progresses now. Re-seated GI light in back. This thing is coming along nicely.

#55 4 years ago

Finally fixed that tricky switch for the lastmost ball trough switch. If that switch doesn't work, the game doesn't start. Cleaned the contacts with alcohol first, then did a bit of creative tab bending and...it works! Game starts each time(fires off the coil).

Onward to finding out why the backbox light cluster doesn't work. I'm seeing a lot of straight-through crimped connectors to the lighting, so I'm guessing that's a factor. Otherwise, checking the continuity of the stapled-on wire seems okay.

2 years later
#89 2 years ago

Does the back box latch the pinside part banner show on here a fit? I need to find one, as the bb door flies open when I play. Heh.

1 year later
#113 8 months ago

For the 7 digit in the attached picture here, is this a repair I can do? Does it involve just freshening up the solder connections on the board? Or is it something a bit more elaborate and pricey?

P_20180828_180753 (resized).jpg
#115 8 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

as long as any digit works completely it can usually be fixed. read this to get an idea http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm

Taking a look at the page, it looks like some cold solder joints could use some freshening up. I know I had to do that to a small driver board on this, and after that, the wrong coils stopped firing. It became playable without unexpected multiball.

I have a feeling the non-working pop bumper is going to do a little more investigation.

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