I had a real nice TX-Sector in 2005 that I couldn't sell, nobody wanted it. Ended up taking it to auction and got $600 for it. How times have changed.

I had one but when i was offered 2800 for mine there was no hesitation on selling.The game is cool but not 2800 cool to me.

usually that's a fuse issue as dumb as it sounds. I have been looking for a TX for a long time myself but they never come up here. GLWS

usually flipper fuses could be on the bottom of the cabinet or under the playfield. Likely under the PF to the left towards the front of the playfield. You cannot miss it

If you make a nice profit, I hope you let your "friend" hear about it!

R u willing to ship?

Congrats to the future owner, such an amazing game! Get a polk sub hooked up to it and crank it. they are $80 shipped on amazon right now.

As with anything, condition is key. I have a damn near perfect 90' ZR-1 W/ 37K. I paid $18K for it 4 years ago, put well over $10K into it and would be lucky to get $19K, market is soft for them now. The windshields are easily worth more than grand a piece if they are the true laminated NOS with radar cut outs.
If you won't sell the TX, give me dibs on the $12,5K ZR-1

nearly all of tx sector pfs are in great shape due to the way they were made and coated, similar to european ems by interflip, segasa, sonic, etc.
i can pretty much guarantee that tx sector is not huo and i really wish that term would go away. it is way to misleading.
back then, people just didnt buy NIB machines and them not be routed sometime in their life between then and now 2016.
even from ones today, that people buy sterns and are HUO,
still have the chance to being sold to someone will route it within the next 30 years.
i just bought a HUO potc with receipt that i put on location. so, not its not HUO anymore. big deal. if you take care of a game, who cares. games on location don't get beat to heck like they used to in the good ole earning days.

actually this is very wrong.

There are 3 different pf types used on Tx-Sector (verified by John T when I spoke to him a few years ago). The majority were the standard wood and clear used in other games of that era. These wear just like everything else. Many had mylar so look good in the center, but outside of the mylar edges the wear badly.

Other version was wood with a new clearcoat. There are only a limited number of these.

Third was the vitrigraph version which looks completely different than the other two and is more of the plastic style you are talking about. It was actually still wood as I understand it, but had a new printing technique beung tried out. It is also limited in nature. I have not seen one of these besides photos but know they exist.

Tx-sector with the more common pf will wear outside of the mylar very quickly with any amount of play.

that was quick (as expected).

Congrats on the sale Ed. LMK if you want to clear out others and get the rest of the collection running.

Offer still stands.

ive owned more than one and all had nice pfs/ all were vitragraph btw. one i sold on here. ive seen prob 20 tx sectors in person, never seen one with wear on the pf.

That's because they are all HUO just like this one!

The flippers definitely have a fuse.

Beyond that I'd check for a connector issue and course carefully inspect the wiring at the coils and flipper switches.

Hmm. Trying to remember...system 80b...

Gottlieb did weird things with relays. They used them for gi and flippers. Are there any relays in the cabinet or under the playfield? If so, tarnished leafs can be the issue.

Hello Ed,

Here is a list of the fuses and their values. I don't see one specifically labeled "flippers". Maybe check the F4 fuse?

IMG_1377 (resized).JPG

You have come across that many vitragraph playfields?

If you come across another one - let me know.

Pretty much nailed it. Mine is a lower serial number and does have PF wear thats poorly touched up. Could be a lot worse but its still PF wear. Lucky me it has a mylar or it would be worn more.

IMG_5447[1] (resized).JPG

Ed, give a peek under the playfield and see if there is something like this

s1rely1s (resized).jpg

Why would you want to "give the guy top dollar for it"? In his mind, you're doing him a favor by giving him a couple hundred bucks for it. Otherwise, he'd have to hire someone to take it to the dump or move it to another storage place.

Heaven forbid, an owner do a little research and list a game for sale on their own. Our knowledge of pinball and our passion for the game is worth something. I never feel bad buying a game under its value.

Just buy a cheap multimeter and check every single fuse you can find on the game. Chances are that there's more than just the flipper fuse blown. If you can flush a toilet, comb your hair or pump your own gas, then you can check a fuse with a multimeter.

id let everyone know by posting it for sale when i get bored. its not a title you have to chase people down to buy.

after i sold my last one on here, even after its been archived, ive probably had 50 or more messages asking if i still had it.
it sold instantly with 5 people in line wanting to pay as well.

I am the one who bought it from Silver Spinner, however, it didn't really fit in the lineup like I was hoping it would. It was pretty clean but I still put some elbow work into it, added a manual and proceeded to sell it off to another Pinsider for $200.00 less than I paid. Am I silly for not selling it for more? Probably, but I am not into pinball to gouge people. For the record - price was $2,200.

Agreed. Part of the fun in landing a machine is getting a good deal.

Also agree. Tis" the greedy soul who would "rip someone off" by not informing them of what they have.

Both objectives can be achieved however. Good deals can be had without taking advantage of someone.

yes, on that specific one above i had several people offer me more than asking price, told em all it was in the process of selling for what i was asking and held my word. one offer was a bunch more is all i can say. i thought it was more than $2200 though...lol. to long back to recall.
ill go back check that archive. you are prob right.

What is the latest on this in regards to the flippers?

Now that I think of it, the leaf blades on the flipper EOS switches can get crummy. Press the flipper button in and move the arm link by hand, any resistance or movement? The next thing to try is a flat head screw driver between the EOS blades on the flipper assembly. While the flipper is pressed and game is started, stick the flat head between the two eos blades-this should show a blue/white spark, and is enough to get the flippers to ''seat'' properly at the eos contacts.
If a Gottlieb sits a long time without use, this can happen.

earmarked